Luckylad

If vaulted ceilings and warm loft space increase the heated volume doesn't that increase the use of energy that otherwise wouldn't be used ? I agree there's increased risk of leakage whenever surfaces go through insulation. There's usually a draught when I work around downlights. I've only insulated my habitable space, if I'd insulated my cold roof area as well it would have doubled the heated volume in upstairs of my chalet bungalow.

We've kept the vaulted ceiling that came with the design of our house because it looks nice but I do wonder about their impact on the environment . 99% of the properties I work on now have vaulted ceilings so it's adding up to quite a lot of volume that a few years ago would have been flat and unseated above. So many decisions!!

our insulation runs between and on top of rafters in the living space ,down the ashlar walls then across the ceiling to the cavity. We did this because we'd only fill up the attic space with stuff we'll never use. We've got a large storage cupboard on the landing. Im not keen on warm roof space because it seems a waste of energy to me, I also think the same of vaulted ceilings.

The boarding in the photo looks really good ,but I'm intrigued by the slate verge detail. Can you post a photo when it's completed?

Thank you both for the info and advice. I can put the unit in a cupboard in an office but the pipes will go through a cold roof area. As usual I've got a lot of reading to do!

Mvhr seems an excellent system. What size are the pipes? Does it matter if the unit is in the uninsulated part of my attic?

http://www.ghsupplies.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=64_110 ive used these before,but fluff does like finding its way in to these shadow gaps!

There can never be enough mince pies!!

Thanks that worked. This is what I tried to upload.

If they're not collated,you have to pick them up out of the box/ pouch and put them on the drywall bit. If you're not using one already make sure you use a depth gauge bit for your drywall driver. I just tried to load an image in here of one but failed !

If you are not using collated,then I recommend you get silver coloured plasterboard screws because the black ones can give you tiny metal splinters

Got to love a plasterboard lifter! These drop downs are always an interesting challenge for plasterers

This forum is a mine of information! I didn't know such units even existed. how is the warm air heating distributed?

Thanks,That looks very helpful . I'll have a proper look when I get home.

Hello We bought our plot with planning already passed. We need an ashp because we can't get mains gas. I've never had one before so don't have a clue what to look out for, when getting quotes. Any advice would be appreciated!

Hi What are your walks made of? Are they solid brickwork?

Hi Who is the manufacturer of your board? If the joints don't have to have mastic,then that's one less Job!

Yes hopefully he would say ,but it's just better if it's gone hard before he starts. You fill with mastic so the render doesn't get in between the boards when they expand and contract. Helps stop any cracking.

Lol yes it's hard work. I like to think I have the shoulders of a completely knackered God!

Thanks for the warm welcome. I'll investigate all the window recommendations ,cheers. We're fortunate to be busy enough ,just to keep plastering ,rendering and screeding. I can remember my father saying that years ago wall tiling was associated with plastering .

Hi I'd give the board company a call. I don't know if you are aware but your board gaps must be filled with mastic to stop the render squeezing into the gaps.

Hi Its a blockwork chalet bungalow . My slate roof is finished, I've just started insulating the upstairs rooms. At the moment I'm shopping around for aluminium Windows

Hello I'm in the process of doing a self build and this forum seems a great source of help and advice. I hope I can give out some advice, as well as receive it, because I've been a plasterer for 34 years so should know what I'm talking about!