cherryfountain

Buy one from Ikea and reduce the depth.

We used MT Drains Folkestone for inspection ,they were very good .

Yes turnkey is the way to go if you have a big bank balance 👍

Yes that’s right ,we moved in after 1 year another 9 months before being signed off. Still some bits to finish. Doing the self build bit on your own takes time.The good thing about getting the build weathertight quickly all the timber stays dry you get no cracks on all the joints on the walls and ceiling.

Our modular build from Meisterstuck Haus was weathertight in 10days😄

It is a good idea to fit one there , as then covers you when you fit other appliances that need a check valve.ie water softener,outside tap and other appliances.

Buy a 32 MPDE to 28mm copper fitting and a 28mm stop cock or lever valve .You can then tee off with a reducer tee for a drain down valve. You can also use a reducer tee for 25MPDE to a 22mm copper fitting. You could then reduce the 28mm copper tail to 22mm or 15mm for the supplies that need them. If I was doing this I would use end-feed copper fittings, but you could also use push-fit. You need to remove the sink base back and clip all plumbing back to wall. You can always fit a removable back with access later if required.

I agree with Kelvin .Every joint is a possible leak in the future . Why do plumbers still use copper and fittings for these situations? If the plumber had used Pegler MLCP or Rehau all that could have been done with minimal joints and in half the time.

If it’s worktop you are cutting and the edge is on show ,cut it 10mm approx from line with jigsaw then finish with router and clamped straight edge.You then have an edge you can laminate .

The doors come with their own lining and architrave kit. Look them up on YouTube .

Here are my flush hinges on our Deuren Doors

I have used Pegler Tectite MLCP pipe for all my H+C pipe work . I found it an excellent product bends like copper comes in 50mtr coils,no joins under the screed . You need to use there pushfit fittings and inserts also a couple of special tools to prepare the pipe.

We had an Escrow bank account arranged by the kit builder when we paid for our German build to the UK . Staged payments all worked well. Need to be FCA approved company here,

We have a German Build they used Würth Eurosol 60mm wide.The tape is brilliant but expensive. The air tightness test was .83 so obviously does the job .

https://media3.bosch-home.com/Documents/9001671879_H.pdf

Try here https://siwasaltdirect.com

One more thing .You need to cut a strip of board about 602mm long, angle bracket each end to the decor panel and base unit it gives you an accurate width also set it so you can get the top gap above the trim . You can also fit one at the back the same size,will also support the quartz. Hope that helps.

Yes I agree with Prodave it’s the best solution.I would still cut the Decor panel back to keep the plinth line.

Is there a filler to the wall on the right of that housing ? If there is can you take that ESPanel out and move the housing to make the gap for DW .You can flush fit brackets into the decor end for the Quartz to rest on. Then fit new housing filler. The plinth line is much better if you cut the bottom of the decor end out and make it the same size as the housing end.It enables you to run a continuous plinth along if you leave it as it is there is nothing to support the end of the plinth in front of the dishwasher.

Have you got a better picture of that run .I would certainly want to fit dishwasher before having quartz worktops fitted..The detail on the housing end is wrong ,the end support panel will completely mess up the door gaps . If the walls are not straight the base units should have been spaced away from the wall .Probably a bit late now assuming the decor end has been cut back on the housing. The kitchen company I worked for always allowed a 50mm gap behind the base units as the quartz was templated to fit,made life a lot easier. Have you got all the plumbing and electrics sorted there is no room behind the D/W for them ?

I have used Pegler Tectite MLCP for all my H+C. pipework no joints under the screed .

Get the kitchen designed using 650 deep worktops saves a lot of hassle as it gives you an extra 50mm behind integrated appliances for pipes and wiring

Have you looked at Frankische MVHR in Hastings.

An integrated dishwasher fits in an accurate 600 space . Rest the w/top on end support panel and scribe in-small filler for the gap left,then tile up to filler .

Have you looked at British Gypsum Gyplyner system