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I've ordered some double pole inline switches to hopefully stop the semi-illumination However the earthing issue raised, concerns me. This is the inverter unit I am using: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LCD-DISPLAY-Pure-Sine-Wave-power-inverter-1500W-DC-12V-TO-AC-220V-230V-UK-Socket/131764980815 There is no earthing lug and no mention of earthing requirements in the manual. So I'm a bit lost as what I should do to be safe for these metal LED lights (though no one should be touching them when they are on) and welcome any advice.

Please, just rigging house with these sensors atm - though it seems I should have checked them first!

Actually I have entered - forgot I needed one for my next project - doh! FYI I'm in no way connected with company BiocellWater Good luck to all!

Biocell are running a competition to win a sewage treatment plant on Facebook. I think the odds of winning are high as cant see there being many thousands of entries. https://m.facebook.com/BiocellWater/?tsid=0.8533993889248037&source=typeahead I'm not entering as already got my plant. Lets us know if you win please.

Ooo, sounds good. Keeping the vintage Bentley dry? Ensuring the wine racks are kept at best temperature? Stopping the yoga mediation mat being too cold? Keeping the butter on the pole dancing pole ready for action? Do tell! Would have loved to have done the same!

Thanks Jeremy, attached a photo of the internals, I'm not sure if that is a proper LED driver or not? The earth connection within the units look secure and ok to me. However there is no earth connection in my setup as these lights are running directly from my battery inverter. Seems like I should add a connection to the world earth for safety reasons. I'm not sure if the live and earth are correct inside the unit, maybe someone can say from this photos (note these are from LED units that have failed but the working units are the same internally) Though I still find it strange the lights are semi-illuminating and a double pole switch seems best solution - do these exist as 'in plug' versions like these units?

My independent BI is ok with venting my log-burner from the underfloor void - likewise fed with 30+ air bricks. And as the 'direct air feed kit' supplied with the stove is pretty poor me and the HETAS installer have built this metal channel that sits in another metal channel installed before the insulation, constructional hearth and screed went in. The channel then being 'roped sealed'. (The csa of the rectangular part being greater than the circular connection to ensure no reduction in air flow). Untested admittedly at the moment though!

I've put a few of these cheap LED floodlights about: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/-/192036357719 Apart from the fact they didn't like a super cheap non-sine wave inverter and kept blowing up so I've upgraded to a sine wave inverter and they seem fine. To help the trades I've put some switched plugs on LED power cords: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261904475129 But when the switch is OFF the LED floods are partially illuminating - this is happening on all the LED floods I have with these switch plugs on. Is it dangerous? A problem with the LED? A problem with the switch? A screwup by me? Thanks for any tips Paul

How much data does it use?

Had the supplier come out and 'adjust' the window sashes so that the night vent lock can be used. Now a couple of windows don't shut until much jiggly about and then I 'un-adjusted' the window - now they shut but don't lock. Argh.

575 -> 620g = 45g gain (including hair-wash) Having tried that I'll stick with the hand-blade

Sorry meant British Water: http://www.britishwater.co.uk/Accreditation-Certification/certified-equipments.aspx Big hole pics next week I hope!

Got an ACR Oakdale as smallest direct air room sealed solution I could find (in cream a SWMBO 'must have'). It was not till we unpacked it after 6 months of ordering we learned the direct air feed vent was at the rear instead of underneath so we fabricated a sliding adapter that feeds the stove from the void below the beam and block floor. This was installed before the functional concrete hearth and screed, getting on for a 700mm long duct!

The Clearfox is approved by the British waterways so BCO happy. The plumber and digger guys are still getting their heads around it - I'll try and keep this thread updated as we install it. Luckily the worms are coming later - I was getting concerned about how to keep them fed before we moved in!

Yep at £4500 it is 'excessively expensive' but I really really wanted: Something quiet - can't stand constant buzzy noises - my partner was not allowed to charge her electric toothbrush in the bath room next to my office in last house because of the annoying buzz it made 100% non-electrical being off grid - i'd pretty much given up trying to find a suitable treatment plant and was going with the Graf One2Clean which consumed the least electric I could find, but required mounting a compressor outside bedroom window or in utility but that would have exceeded the 20metre max compressor to plant distance they allow. Even that minimal electric consumption at two 7 hour runs every 24hrs was an additional electrical load I was keen to avoid No tied in maintenance contracts Something that could run straight a field dyke as the output is clean enough Something that made use of the natural fall of my land to the field dyke - I have around 4 m to play with I also desired Minimal dislodging - the worms in the Grafton baffle unit should keep this to Something from a respected source - in a previous post I'd asked about another worm based solution but the supplier was pretty useless and could not convince me many units had been sold I went for the Clearfox version supplied by the UK reseller instead of the Irish reseller as the Graf baffle tank with worms seemed a better idea than standard Clearfox baffle tank and it was same price. Although there will only be 3 of us living in a 3 bed house, I'm keeping the attic space ready for conversion to another 2 double bedrooms so the 1-9 person unit allows for this future expansion

Wow great idea trying that tomorrow!

+1 hand blade

Looks pretty simple to make a downdraft extractor: take big fan in a box, get some flex tube, stick a filter in it, make a hole in kitchen island: http://www.gutmann-exklusiv.de/en/product-world/gutmann-technology/motors-blower.html

Does a downdraft extractor upset MVHR systems with kitchen ceiling extract? Or given it is a recirculating unit the there is no impact?

Following on from: http://forum.buildhub.org.uk/ipb/topic/1963-excessive-cost-of-sewage-treatment-plants/ The Clearfox with Graf baffle tank arrived today - worms coming next month Going to need some big holes!

And do I need to protect the screed prior to the final floor covering going down?

What tips/advice for post treatment of liquid screed please? (Done by ScreedIt using locally sourced screed mix) A google suggestions: http://www.bal-adhesives.com/tiling-onto-calcium-sulfate-anhydrite-screeds/ Laitance should be removed by light abrasion using a suitable sanding machine i.e. a rotary floor scarifier and a 60’s grit sandpaper. Remove excess dust completely with a vacuum cleaner. Abrading the surface is best carried out 4-6 days after the application of the screed and can assist in the drying out process. Scarifying the surface is even recommended with low laitance Calcium Sulfate/anhydrite screeds as this further aids adhesion. Anyone done this, anyone done any different? Any tips much appreciated

It seems ok, it is expensive but saves loads of man-power, until I move in and live with it I can't really say.

And a shot of the 100mm depth foam used as simple sound insulation across posi-joists