readiescards

Found another place to 'lose' some of the foam off cuts - in the eaves of my office room. (Also have dumped a lot of PIR foam off cuts in there too)

Texecom Premier: * does it have Android app? * what is the power consumption?

Well let us know - would be looking for full service from cataloguing receipts to chasing up reclaim payment. Mostly building merchant receipts. PM what you are thinking if you wish.

Please!

Called them up - there is a JG Hub2: http://www.johnguest.com/speedfit/product/jg-aura-wireless-range/jg-hub-and-user-licence/ But at £150 not sure I want to spend that today

The manual states 'The wiring centre and system receivers will automatically join the Zigbee network when powered up and the Wireless Coordinator is in pair mode.' But yes could be tricky decoding I guess, was just wondering if anyone had done it

I've got 9 John Guest wireless thermostat/hot water controllers. While neat little units it is a bit tedious to program so many - plus I want to monitor them. I think they are Zigbee based. If I get a Zigbee PC sniffer will that help me see what the stats are broadcasting so I can at least look for relevant packets or will it be encrypted ? (I've asked John Guest direct but am waiting an answer)

Just called 3 and 'call them only' deal unlimited data plus 600 minutes is £24pcm (£27 is you do it online!)

Ditto here!

Any wireless alarm system recommendations?

And forgot to say the room with the issue has the shortest pipework. Just taken some other grills of, most are ok but another also has dead flies trapped in it - though this room we've never noticed flies about

So now we have an electric connection (7 days and counting) I've started to run the MVHR unit 24x7 but since then we've started to notice little flies in one room. Having pulled off the MVHR supply air vent in this room it contains many of the little beggars trapped in the foam as per photo. Two weeks back I vacuum cleaned the MVHR filters, apart from being a bit dirty with 12 months of limited use there were no flies, today the exterior filter contains a few of the same flies (which I might expect as it does its work) and the house side filter seems ok. FYI our new build is called Field Cottage, it is in the middle of a field - currently just ploughed after a crop of wheat harvested 6 weeks ago, while there are flies about I would not say there are swarms of these types. Have to admit since the air tightness test was done, also the same day the electric was connected, me and my partner don't feel the MVHR is delivering the same volume of fresh air - maybe the summer by pass has turned off or worse case a pipe has popped somewhere - yet to investigate. Unit is a Vent-axis Sentinel Kinetic plus B. Can the flies get past the filters or do I have my partners worse night mare, a fly infestation in the MVHR pipework? (She told me this many times over the long build and we pretty much kept all the pipe work sealed and ditto the MVHR).

Tester just said turn it off but in the process of getting him some power to run the fan (we did not have electric mains connection until later that day) I forgot to turn it off. I can't find a suitable web link saying the external MVHR vents should be sealed during air tightness testing - does anyone know of a suitable page. As I wish to send it to the tester to see if he'll come back to do a proper test

Due to a mistake by me I forgot to turn off the MVHR during the air tightness test - but actually I don't know if it is normal or not to leave the MVHR running during the test? My brick and block house got 2.66 ACH @ 50Pa but was hoping for a little nearer to 2.0 - and have since found a few holes - the air testing guy was not in the mood to allow me any time to chases around with a smoke pencil looking for holes :-(

Seems the best plan, especially as it might be the 'fire it up, fook its hot, never use it again' scenario

We have a fire place with (when its fitted) a 5kW room sealed log burner sat inside the chimeny breast. As per our previous house we wish to have some hidden lighting up in the chimney breast that illuminates the fire place and log burner (probably 2-3W LED). The electrican has installed the wiring and switches etc but wants the log burner installed (Hetas registered) to state what lights are acceptable. The Hetas guy has had many weeks to come back to me on this but seems to be struggling to get a definite list of suitable items. What is allowed/not allowed in such a situation. Would a simple cermanic baynet holder and a cooker rated LED bulb be ok?

No friction pad was ever explained/shown to me for my Internorms. One other thing about the Internorm T&Ts: they are incredible loud (in window terms) to operate. Lots of clanking of the internal mechanism. This probably only matters if like me you sleep with the windows open and if it rains hard in the night you want to try and close the windows without waking the rest of the house.

No fee down here in Lincolnshire but I was advised by local council to call the local police and fire services to make sure my address was on their databases. I did do so though what good that is if they don't actually know where the address is beats me. But if your lucky one of these services databases might get synced to the postal address database in the future

Mine don't, just a tiny first of wind and they swing open widely. Have yours some sort of friction hinge or a physical stay? Are they Internorm?

Something new? http://www.lghuk.co.uk/bunsenair

I am impressed with the Internorm quality and air tightness (it is currently blowing a gale outside and it is quiet and still inside) but I'm still not a fan of tilt and turn windows though!

Sorry another MVHR balancing question! It is blowing a gale outside, lovely and quiet inside but that means the MVHR external vents are subject to the blustering winds - must I wait for the winds to drop for balancing? The vents are on the same wall, 3 metres apart at the same height protected by metal cowls.

Apologies, yes I have two big holes (just the air feed one is already temporarily blocked) and the log burner is a full air tight model (or claims to be) when it's doors are closed. Ditto I also wondered this particularly on the rooms with extracts. Or is it best to simple do the balancing with the doors in their most typical position? Or is it not important as the door air gaps are larger than the duct c/s area?

So I'm in the middle of doing my balancing having waited for the chippy to finish the final air-tightness and have just realized my log burner is not yet fitted so I have a gapping 8" hole to the outside at the moment. I'll bung it up and start again but how much do I need to be concerned about doing the balancing with the final air-tightness? I don't want to hold up the next person in the BuildHub Loan Tool queue!

Great idea!