Ferdinand

YOu could do 175mm as Wickes, for example, do 175mm Loft Legs at under £1 each. Ferdinand

Just to note that when plastering we know the amount of moisture that has gone because it is "x" buckets full that we can count when mixing, Plus body sweat etc. Ferdinand

Dehumidifiers are a classic buy and sell don't hire item. A new one will pay for itself in a very small number of weeks in hire charges. Suggest you consider buying something like this Ebac BD70 'secondhand, or the next one up such as a BD150 http://www.appliancesdirect.co.uk/p/1016900/ebac-1016900-dehumidifier?refsource=Apadwords&gclid=COD2reS8vNACFVU_GwodXuUDJg eg http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EBAC-BD70-DUAL-VOLTAGE-INDUSTRIAL-DEHUMIDIFIER-Set-240v-/222319718874?hash=item33c349b1da%3Ag%3At9sAAOSwHMJYMBm9 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EBAC-BD150-Dehumidifier-240v-/152320293685?hash=item2376ff3b35:g:FuMAAOSwcUBYLHYv 250 to buy, sell for say 150 later, and perhaps 30-40 a week to hire. Ferdinand

One which didn't make it through: What about 70mm PIR x3 Or x2 which may shave costs due to 70mm being a sweet spot (due to that thickness just meeting building regs for floors?) Often 70mm celotex is cheaper than 60mm iirc. Ferdinand

11% cash back via Quidco on Viking at present. Which should pay for your new PSU.

HI @readiescards Obviously you want that insulation on the slope of at all possible. But you don't say what your price is for the Xtratherm. I make it about £25 per sqm of 200mm insulation picking a price off the internet of 36 per 8x4 100mm board. The B&Q celotex deal I pointed out last week comes in at about 21.5 to 22 per sqm, but you would be using 1200x450s at 50mm thick and so more gaps. You would need 100s. Ferdinand

You will now need the correct type of isolator etc for the bathroom etc I think and other bits now need their own circuits, so don't underprovision :-). We had out CU replaced (not moved) a couple of years ago as it was a 12 way and full, and we needed space for a new way for the free car-chargers available then, and to be ready for solar panels. We jumped to a 20 way double and it came to £700 including a new cooker circuit, one double socket, a lecky check, and a boxful of spare RCBOs. For your circuit extensions I would be tempted to put new runs in to a convenient socket, or add some new doubles in if you could use them, rather than pfaffing with junctions. Reckon on £500 for the unit and fitting plus your new runs perhaps. Ferdinand

OK. Entering Purdah.

And you will need an FCU, isolation switch and waterproof cover for that LED. If you keep the Loo Rolls in the fridge, the internet-fridge can autotell Tesco to send some more.

Just trying to avoid you having to go to Sainsbury's with dodgy kecks. Personally I have a roll spike and a shelf in a cupboard. Do not think I am the one over complicating things. Why not have them on a spit like a Rolodex? Or around the rim if a bike wheel like the London Eye? I am sure there must be a Rolodex person in here wanting to upgrade to a Filofax.

IIRC there is rather a pleasant angled ramp into the back entrance of the Broadgate development in London. Completely invisible from the front, but runs across a flight of shallow steps.

That inside the wall loo roll dispenser does nt seem to have an indicator of the stock level. If you are going to do it... Ferdinand

I am not sure that "generic" has a generic meaning . Is it a telltale for good windows that they regularly get steamed up on the outside in the morning? I usually just specify A Rated or the best they have. Usually the extra cost is minimal, not unlike that when they built our conservatory they put 100mm of Celotex in the walls and floor on request at no extra cost when I received a lower spec in the quote. Presumably since it would only add £100-£200 on a 12k project and came at the "clinch the business" stage, Is it actually mandatory to have Fensa certification? Or is that one of those where it is just recommended? *innocent face* Ferdinand

That gap is what I call a Cat Killer. Poor Tibbles will fall down that and get stuck, and die horribly. It is also the size of gap that will fill with crud that can never be cleaned. Build right into the wall, or make it wide enough that a person (not necessarily an American person) can walk through. THe same goes for valleys on roofs or valleys where a conservatory roof meets the building. Ferdinand

I think my questions are all suitable to be framed as policy questions .. which all Planners should answer anyway - with an informal diversion into a consideration of your site if you guide the conversation appropriately. That is why you need the map up,your sleeve. A wise man - if my Latin is not too rusty that is the meaning of Sensus and he always sounds quite wise and HOG (which I declare to be an adjective) - will always leave 1m on all sides, policy or not, so that he can put scaffolding up on all sides without having to involve or pay ground rent to neighbours or council for the next 25 years when he wants to paint it or similar. In my LP a scaffolding on pavement license is the best part of 100 ukp a week plus buggeration squared. It is also a buffer zone which reduces the likelihood of neighbours taking umbrage at your PP and becoming aeriated. Ferdinand

I would say absorb all the stuff above, then talk to a Planning Officer to find out what the local policy and practice are. IT may only be guidance, but complying with it will save you the aggro of an Appeal and perhaps 6 months and a lot of work, unless you are Captain Mainwaring and enjoy such things ! In practice the main bits of space you need to allow for will be: The Building. SPace standards may apply but since you want it large not small that should be OK. Space Around the Building so you are far enough from boundaries. Usually means 1m+ iirc. Parking Spaces, which will mainly depend on how many occupants and/or bedrooms you plan. EXtra bedrooms can be smuggled in by e.g. subdividing later if you really need to. Approx 12-18 sqm each. My LPA require 2 for 2 bed, 3 for 3 bed+. Minus 1 if you are on a good bus route near a town centre. Private Amenity Space i.e. garden. in my LPA minimum is 50 sqm. SPace for your soak away etc which tend to need to be 5m from a boundary or as similar as possible. Then they may require turning space on site but often not since research showed that reversing out onto a main road was ess trouble than expected and the requirement was loosened in the Manual for Roads and Streets over a decade ago. Then there is the usual stuff about habitable room to neighbour habitable room facing distance etc, but at this point that is not relevant. So max building size means roughly 50sqm in front or side for parking, the same behind for the private garden, and a 1m stripe around the building to avoid the neighbours. Narrow strips will not count for amenity space. UNless you are two beds or less you really want more than fifty sqm of amenity space so it could appeal to families etc. Phone up your LPA and ask for those details. Have a site plan and / or block plan online or ready to email plan or link so he can have a look on the spot. Or know how to find it on the Councils map on their website as that is what he will look at. Ferdinand

Need to be careful comparing like for like here, but £100k should be vaguely possible for a build budget - even possible including your plot sometimes. Some plots are free or nearly free. That 132sqm size, though :-) A couple of years ago there was the excellent £100k house series. Ferdinand

Oooh. Metabo :-)

"Bishops Finger" is normally waved at recalcitrant Vicars, ime.

It gets more expensive when you are caught saying things like that...

Being cheeky, has anybody spotted good offers for the following, which I need in the next period? - The Makita recent multitool discussed on the other thread. - Infra Red Camera - Normal camera Cheers Ferdinand

Verse 2: The centipede returned from lunch; her head was in a spinner. Her fury rose to that same pitch, she dug a trench and drained the ditch. slow-boiled a pan without a hitch, and ate frog's legs for dinner. (Gets coat)

I rather suspect that there is no such thing :-).

I think a roof pitch of 30 degrees is also good (eg for a bungalow) in build terms, since this gives measurements of 1 in ridge height for 2 along the surface of the roof, You can play the same games with eg 3 4 5 triangles for an angle of 37 degrees to keep measurements straightforward, though not quite as simple as 45 degrees. Here is an article in HB&R about it, which also discusses aesthetics (*) https://www.homebuilding.co.uk/getting-the-right-pitch/ But I am sure you will get the balance. Ferdinand (*) The centipede was happy, quite until the frog in fun said: "Pray, which leg goes after which?"; and worked her mind to such a pitch she lay distracted in a ditch - considering how to run.

Looks nice and simple. I would say that shelterbelts etc need very careful handling as there is little shelter in the inherent design. Also doesn't the sun come from the North in Australia (doesn't it?) . So your sheltered entrance and terrace may need to be on the other side. Or I ma be wibbling. I think I would want a potential second living space for privacy, and perhaps make use of doors straight from bedroom to the terrace. Ferdinand