Ferdinand

One of these pruning saws https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kent-Stowe-70100441-Pruning-Saw/dp/B00U0126VK

Better move all those bathrooms and loos downstairs...

A very good question for someone learning in many directions. Trying to think of things that you may not have yet, I think I would say a Post Rammer and Turnbuckles for wire tensioning. And Post Savers.

You need that either stated or confirmed in writing.

I actually left a 50mm gap right across the back under the flashing for ventilation, then used a wider than planned Ubiflex. How are you damp proofing and insulating your rear wall? That is an obvious thing to ask. If it is a garden wall you will need to lap your slab dpc up behing the skirting and screw not glue to make sure you can check it in say 10 years. And make that slice of floor removable so you can also check that. I ran electrics and gas in a void along the back for that reason, and left the rear (house) wall as brick so that it was easier to look after. T asked what I was going to use to finish it - "wire brush then pva". My design phase lasted until it was built, as it was a "learning about conservatories" project. I try and build one of everything myself. F

is that correct? I thought that numbers for compulsory affordable housing had a profit element built in. And that the mix required is actually set by the Local Plan d/ housing needs sssessment. Ferdinand

You could do worse that get hold of a copy of SPONS for some basic comparisons.

It’s great to somebody with background and hinterland working through the structure, to get real valuable experience rather than just dry academic qualifications!

It's actually exactly the sort of thing that sometimes works and is expedient. Like repairing a wall in 3 sections to get a different wall without engaging awkward bureaucracy. Consider a 3000 sqft workshop somewhere in North Notts I sold to somebody in about 2010 (for 35k!). It has what looks like a drop kerb (probably a swing pavement for bigger lorries) and a yellow line and a post-strorage drop. Bloke wanted parking / waiting / unloading, Council said - can't move the yellow line as there is obviously no unloading point in that wall. If there were access there we could do something maybe. But anyway, a yellow line extinguishing requires a traffic order doodah at County, which takes months and this is low priority. A more recent piccie and what they did a bit later.

Hi Simon It's really nice to see someone working on an HNC not a degree ! F

Suspect AB may have had enough of threaded bar to last a lifetime .

1 - Perhaps Goog Sketch-up, or consider an online casual job site where you will get it for very little in a weekend. Someone will be able to recommend. 3 - Do it appropriately, and a summerhouse will not need Planning .. so you retain that option unless your PD Roghts have been abolished. F

Yes, but I bet you did Lewis Carroll at some point.

It is an educational duty. We do not know what you know, so we have to talk about all the unknown unknowns all the time. Like your history teacher who may have explained how to eat clams and oysters, such that they enjoy the experience.

That looks like 184 fixings. How do you get a middle one off afterwards for maintenance? TRADA should have a decent detail for this, applicable even in huffandpuff land.

I think we have the answer, which is that it is overwhelmingly likely to be fine to proceed. They are hardly likely to propose that he be forced to rebuild it, as he has permission to demolish!

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I suppose you could use one of those hand cutting chains used by survivalists. But that perhaps requires it to be held in place as firmly as a tree branch. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Alomejor-Lightweight-Portable-Emergency-Outdoors/dp/B07PY85ZFW

For a handsaw I have used one of these for cutting plastic, an Irwin fine tooth floorboard saw. £9.99 from Screwfix https://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-xpert-floorboard-saw-13-325mm/9429x

Broader than that. I see it as part of the process of you getting the skills to know your own needs, and explore them, which will mean you can be an active client and use your architect well. And to be the basic output documentation of that whole process. And then a check for your reference at each stage over 2-4 years so you know how you got where you are. So really, as the foundational document throughout. F

I do not think there is a definition for a "brief". It is whatever lets the architect evaluate you and vice-versa. And if it doesn't work in your relationship and process you recast it. Probably the most important thing is to have actually stopped to consider your needs at all. I like the "one line - one sentence - one page" outline as it lets the thinking develop.

You need to think about heat as well as ventilation. My Ts sun lounge also has 100mm rockwool in the roof, and an aspect that does not get sun until mid afternoon (NW side of the house - deliberately). What she finds is that it is a 4 season room due to the insulation (also has a big rad) and ventilation (2 x 0.8m square opening windows at opposite ends), but that when it is just *hot* for several days in summer (eg as we had recently) the heat soak gets her and makes the doggies uncomfortable. Ventilation does not work because it is also too hot outside. She has a portable air conditioner for this situation, which may get occasional use in the summer. This is a mini implementation of what @JSHarris just did with his aircon, and what I will be doing at home. I also have a similar issue with my conservatory, which is well insulated and on the N side (the only place I would put a conservatory), and gets some sun in the afternoon. That runs up to a high temperature quickly for the short time it gets sun. I manage that because it is really a link room between lounge and kitchen, not a living room. That has a similar thing in that it is usable 3.5 seasons, and only not in winter as we choose not to use the heating - could be switched on eg for a party. So shading helps make it useable for the vast majority of time, but you will have the same issue. Most of the time it will be fine, but having gone for a "warm" garden room means that heating will be cheap in autumn/winter, but that you risk not being able to cool it when it is warmed up and being uncomfortable when the outside is say above 25-26C. I do not think however much ventilation will address that. This is the problem that several BHers have found last year and this year. As your garden room is shed-size, it will have less time-buffer. My house can take several days before it becomes uncomfortable; a garden room should be less. I would suggest considering your possible usage patterns (and others if it may be used differently in future) and consider: 1 - Arranging vents such that you can purge-vent securely overnight (consider height, wind, orientation) at opposite ends, to give you a nice morning temp during hot periods to let you partially use it. 2 - A couple of (second hand?) solar panels on the roof and a small split aircon, so that you can heat or cool when needed, and when you need to cool it is cost-free. Depends slightly if you have house solar. Run the numbers. Or a portable. Perhaps make provision, but wait until the first time you get lobstered to see if there is actually a problem in your circs. Ferdinand

I am about to order a 2.5m x 2.5m corrugated roof for my shed from somewhere15 miles away, and last time they charged me £50. So it is now a £50 contribution to a roof rack.

Great to see that you got there. We have a thread for architectural briefs, but it only has a couple on it. Is there a chance you could add some of your stuff here, to be an example for future readers? > Writing a Brief for the Architect ?

Could you reapply for two dwellings, and sell off a small plot? ?