Mattg4321

What's the point in continuing this discussion when you've got people looking at £5-10 BILLION and saying nah not worth it! Don't think there is much, so I'm out.

No longer within the energy strategy is another way of saying banned. It's banned in corporate speak. Why say one word when you can say 10. Here's an excerpt from Labour's 2024 manifesto "We will not issue new licences to explore new fields because they will not take a penny off bills, cannot make us energy secure, and will only accelerate the worsening climate crisis. In addition, we will not grant new coal licences and will ban fracking for good." It's banned. By the government who think they know best. Ideology before reality always. If you try to issue new licenses and nobody wants them, then fair enough. But banning is different.

There’s no benefit to the treasury then? And no potential to increase our energy security.

If the oil producers/exploration companies are not interested then fair enough. In that case though, why bother banning it

The graph is irrelevant. It’s not ours or the governments job to decide what is and isn’t viable. What little IS viable we should extract. It makes no sense not to. We all want energy independence, even if we can squeeze a few more barrels out of the North Sea, that will help a little way to that in the short and medium term.

It’s a reasonable argument to make, but as above it’s not the government’s decision as whether we can or can’t. There’s still oil there, we don’t know how much or little although we can have a pretty good guess. Let them try and extract it if they want. It’s greener than importing it from abroad. To ban any new issuing of licenses is woke BS!!! Makes no sense.

Woke is pretty much an evolution of the term 'political correctness' imo. It doesn't really mean what it meant 5 or 10 years ago imo. I think we all understand that. An example, a view that some people have is that we should completely stop using oil immediately. Mad if you ask me, but not 'woke'. Other people think we should carry on consuming oil, but we should not produce it in this country. This is PC/woke BS imo. Makes no sense whatsoever to anyone but the ideologically captured.

You won't find a regulation that says what appliance requires a dedicated circuit. There's only a recommendation in an Appendix of BS7671 that states appliances over 2kW to have their own dedicated circuits. I personally wouldn't usually fit a dedicated circuit for a microwave, but would for a combi oven microwave. Whether it's freestanding or fixed isn't really important. Fact is, a lot of the combi ones are 16A supply - no plug fitted and none of the standard microwave are - they come with a plug fitted and usually under 1kW. There's not really a right/wrong answer, but generally it's dedicated circuits for ovens/hobs/combi ovens and everything else on the ring/s. Don't bother with 4mm2 radials, you're limited more on cable lengths/insulation derating than you are with a 2.5mm2 ring.

It won’t be this, don’t think I’ve ever seen a light fitting with lamp holders wired in series. As you say, take one out and the rest don’t work.

A load of those lumens from the GLS bulb will be going in directions that are not useful to you. The led fitting you had before probably had the full 3000 pointed in the right direction

Meanwhile, back in the real world… Perhaps this happens with a very small amount of equipment fitted on the premises of big corporations, but I guarantee you it does not in the case of 99.99999% of domestics, even though it might be a good idea! It’ll get fixed when it breaks. If the terminal has been correctly torqued, it pretty unlikely it will come loose. I don’t fit loads of these, but I do fit 1 or 2 a month. Mostly Hypervolt and Andersen. I’m not aware of either of those requiring any servicing to maintain the warranty, or even suggesting it at all.

what servicing needs to be done on an EV charging point?

Impressive bit of kit. Wonder if they do one for pigeons. I'm just about far enough inland that the seagulls don't visit too often, but I f*&^%^& hate pigeons. They sit in the tree and C%^P all over everything underneath (which is most of my garden as the tree is v large and the garden isn't really!)

My guess is you won’t pay elsewhere in the country currently, but I’ve not looked into it properly and the journalism is pretty poor!

You'd say an induction hob with multiple rings doesn't have multiple points of utilisation? It's a moot point really though. I have 25 years experience in this exact area, doing this sort of thing every day of the week. If someone wants to ignore my opinion, and that of the IET On Site Guide, then I don't think I'll even attempt to change their mind.

I would take a strong guess this is National Grid - DNO in the Midlands, South Wales and South West England. I can't see how anyone outside can apply it to the other DNO's, apart from the DNO's themselves. They all have slightly different rules/charges as far as I know. I've only ever really dealt with UK Power Networks as they are the DNO for anywhere within a couple of hours drive of my location.

Not true. See below in Table A2 of the On Site Guide. Yes, this is only a 'guide', but as above, I've been doing this for 25 years and have probably fitted thousands of cookers and following this formula has never yet caused me a problem and often saves my customers lots of unnecessary cost and disruption in an existing property. Correct Yes, which has a large influence on cable size. The others being installation methods, correction factors and volt drop usually. It's fairly unusual for 6mm2 not to be big enough in a domestic property. I am an electrician 😉 Diversity - On Site Guide - 18th Ed BS7671.pdf

So many people don’t take diversity into account when calculating cable sizes for cooking appliances. Add the first 10 amps to 30% of the remainder. It’s never failed me in 25 years of using this. 6mm2 is almost certainly enough unless there’s huge amounts of insulation and/or a very long run. My induction 110cm range at home is on 6mm2 and 32A RCBO when total load is over 16kW (around 70A). Don’t think I’ve ever known it to go above about 25A. Running 25mm2 is just madness. On the flip side, the amount of arguments I get into when talking about cable sizes for electric showers. People run 6mm2 when it’s very often not big enough as there is no diversity allowed. Sometimes the same guys who run in 10mm2 for a 5 ring hob, will run 6mm2 to an electric shower. Absolute muppets.

You’ll never draw that 18kW Every ‘fixed’ appliance over 2 kW should be on its own dedicated circuit really. Everything else on the ring. In practice this doesn’t usually include kettles/toasters/tumble dryers/washing machines, but does include cooking appliances. Freezer on its own dedicated circuit is a nice to have as it minimises risks of losing everything in it when a fault trips out your power.

Guessing that might be just the mounting system, without the panels?

Forgot the link https://voltaconsolar.com/products/gaia-10-degrees-rubber-self-ballasted-mounting-system-for-solar-panels-east-west?variant=52708205461838

This system claims to be only 10-11kg per sqm. No idea if it’s any good though!

Headroom not a problem if I had to lose a couple of inches. If I have to spend £600+ on structural engineer and timber etc, which is looking likely. I’ll probably bin off the idea. It just seems a shame not to use the spare MPPT, especially as I can get all the pv kit vat free still I think. And no labour costs.

No worries about intruding on a room below. The flat roof is above a utility room 80's extension with 6x2 joists (same 2.4m span) and also a garage as previously mentioned with the 4x2. There's nothing below the joists in the garage so easy access. No idea of the cost of a structural engineer for something simple like this, anyone like to guess? If it's as potentially simple as sistering the joists, I may look into it as without strengthening the joists and the costs involved in that, payback time is going to be around 2 years according to AI, so pretty attractive. Current joists go into pockets in the brickwork of the house and then overhang the wall plate on the other side by a few hundred mm to create an overhang outside. Presumably any sistered joints would just need to sit on the wall plate (not all the way to the fascia outside), but if the joists are deeper than the current ones, the bottom would need notching out at the wall plate? Assuming these would generally then be bolted to the existing joists. I'm also not sure what the approved practice would be at the junction with the house. I assume create a pocket in the brickwork for the joist to sit in.

The problem with that is that it starts to push out the payback time. I suppose it depends what strengthening work might be required. Anyone have any idea what might be typical?