saveasteading

Absolutely not. In skips and at waste handling centres it is collected separately for safe disposal, it's so nasty. In theory the manufacturers take it back and recycle it. In practice I think they avoid doing so.

As above. Photo? It seems you don't want to or maybe don't have access. But it would explain so much, and perhaps we'd see something significant that you don't. Otherwise, we're not making progress.

Venting into the attic doesn't seem nice unless it is draughty. Best to avoid roof penetrations when possible too. Can it come out under the eaves? OR can that upstream manhole be ventilated?

With "mean" * being an appropriate term. I've even got some washers in my Pb toolbox. But I think dismantling the valve will be trickier than exchanging it. You know, I might even buy a new float although the old one is OK. * sustainability driven No I hadn't thought of that. It may be badly diluted. Webs are certainly blocking my tubes.

Because bounce is noticeable and should show up in thorough surveys. The solution may not be too drastic.. select from... 1. Insert additional joists. 2. Screw timbers to the sides 3. Screw plywood to the sides 4. Build floor and/or ceiling in plywood. I did 4, where I had very limited depth to match an ancient skinny, bouncy floor. Plywood on top with lots of fixings satisfied bco and performed well. (it transforms the joists into T beams with very strong top flanges.)

Holyrood palace supposedly decided to turn the worn parade ground sandstone slabs over and....yes. the victorians had done that before. The washer is likely to be limed up. But I'm going to break the bank with a new washer....maybe even a new assembly.

Good news and can I have some reassurance, see last line. I found the problem and it is an easy solution. After clearing away soggy fibreglass and 2" of sawdust from the joists, and soggy tank jackets, I could see where it was dripping. I think it has been doing this for months but the sawdust has held it, expect occasionally it releases some. The header tank overflow is leaking at the junction and also loose. So I tried to seal it in situ but that didn't work. Needs taking apart. BUT then I thought why is the water so high. So then I saw that the float valve isn't closing and there is a drip every few seconds, even when forces shut. Simple: turn off the inlet valve. It wouldn't shut but eventually did. So it is sorted for now. I just have to decide whether to do it myself or get a plumber. It might just need a washer but changing the assembly is probably as easy. It is apprentice stuff, but sometimes things go wrong. BUT am I right in thinking that 8" of water in the tank is plenty for any changes in the heating system? For a few days.

It isn't a surveyor, but a Structural Engineer. Look for a local practice and phone them.

Phase 1. It isnt the heating tank. It isnt hot and it is relatively dry around. There are 3 tanks, up on a platform for height. The timber has been wet for a long time. Access is tricky so I will clear space and the wet fibreglass. I may strip off the insulating jackets for access and visibility...they are severely mouse anyway. I'm assuming that there are 2 tanks for cold water because of volume and access constraints. We have just realised that this leak was first apparent after 2 weeks away, with no control heating. Up there after lunch. Any suggestions welcome. If there's a tech problem I'll get z plumber but they need access too.

If you use small crushed stone gravel ( not pea gravel) then it will store water in the gaps and allow it to flow to a drain. Bash some holes in the concrete base to give water an outlet, unless it already has somewhere to go. The downside is temporary. This stone won't compress well or lay level. So i would put a layer of membrane on it, then sharp sand.

As you surmise. The tap water isn't too hot. I will know tomorrow but I'm anticipating hot water in the header tank. Today can I just turn down the oil boiler temperature?

Water is coming through the ceiling, just about twice a day. Egg cupful? Soggy ceiling of course. It's right below the water tank and the header tank. It has happened before, years ago, and I think the plumber tweaked something. I think I heard pipes rumbling as if the water is overheating. I will head into the attic tomorrow. What am I looking for? I'm imagining hot water is spurting out of the overflow and splashing out. 1. I check that the pipe points into the tank and the lid is on 2.maybe needs a plumber to adjust boiler or hot tank settings. Any diy advice on this?

That's my concern too. Will it displace if you hose it, brush it, ir with the wind? Will gaps fill with insects?

Fixing structural reinforcement is a skill, and most builders don't have it. So choose cost or bodge. Plus the SE assessment and design. Strip footings are easy and is prob just 1m deep.

Good points. Lots of lime ruins taps etc. What sort of cost is the setup? And running?

It seems a waste to fliter water used for flushing.

I meant several one-offs as opposed to needing hundreds and every day.

It's just an inline filter isn't it?

If a one-off thing needs confirmation, then simply email it someone cc yourself. Then you can add a comment. That can fit in with family/ mates too. Hey John , we made a start at last. Dug this hole yesterday, got it approved by bco and concreted today. Sort of thing.

Depends on the soffit. Is it stiff and can pan that distance? You will have to fix it at the wall side too. A batten on the wall.

I said that earlier, and that I don't generally favour expanding foam. In some discussions where the advice isn't wanted I duck out.

The cost is relativaly small and it removes some concerns so ok. My quick and dry method of checking floors for level is a golf ball. Roll in several directions (across and diagonals) and see if it deviates. The official check for smoothness is a 3m staightedge. Lay it down and also rock it, to see how big any gaps are. Do it all over. 3mm is the limit on commercial floors and sensible on domestic too. But the pir and screed will overcome any bigger gaps.

Fix a triangular batten under the rafter against the fascia, and screw up into it?

I'm all for retaining slabs. Too many are broken out needlessly. 200mm is heavy industrial thickness for forklifts and racking. You can tell how flat it is simply by looking for puddles. A few mm is of no consequence. Why do you need a new dpm on top?

Denso is vaseline on a bandage. I expect it will soak into the plaster as an oily stain