saveasteading

It isn't terribly expensive and removes a a real danger. But outside the building?

Emptied yes. And ask them to hose it down. But I'd stop there because jet washing will be messy but incomplete. It's never going to be clean, and bacteria along with new rainwater will sort it enough for garden watering.

Single or 3 phase? An electrician can calculate your need based on house size m2, then advise the cable to suit. Ditto water by plumber. We put the cable and pipe in to the agreed meter position (and the kiosk) with no ducts, to avoid digging holes twice. But you should be getting a proposal from SSE and your water company , and it will state some requirements.

If using a contractor, do not assume best practice. They may choose to chuck the mesh in without spacers, without laps or even to have gaps. So the slab can end up with mesh on the bottom where it has little effect.

Where does rain go now? Can you reuse that proven facility? If you put lots of water into the ground, it will soak downwards and sideways. This can create a flow, stream, slip. The solution may be to distribute the drainage over a large area, such as a drainage field. However there is still a strong chance of water finding an easy route and the same issue arise. Land slips go way back into the hillside following a remarkably geometric circle, thus can affect foundations a fair way from the slope. Ponds are good. You get evaporation as well as infiltration plus it works as a brake / holding tank when not full. If I was the planner /bco I'd want a detailed scheme before construction. It's in your interest too.

Yes please. Where to source, what to avoid? Running costs? Regrets?

? What is the purpose of the radon barrier outside the building?

We don't though. Not on ground bearing slabs where crack control suffices.

I'm resisting. I'd like a cherry picker too. I wonder if people who regret buying the toy keep quiet about it. I've seen so many 5t diggers sitting idle on site waiting for a very expensive repair. Can you buy at good value and with some guarantee? Where do they go for the last owner before scrapping? I know: my groundworkers and self builders.

I beg your pardon. I and many others on here have been in the industry for decades. I don't sell drugs or arms, or ever cheat people. There are cheats in all industries. What is yours? A joke is OK but not that.

Ask away.

Good point. Could be singular. Seems grass could convert summer sun more efficiently. Winter recovery from mud to grass might be an issue.

Any info on how the shade affects the grass growth and quality?

Why do you need to break it up? We are keeping ours. Pir on top then screed. £25k saved and a hard surface throughout. What we have broken out was crushed to hardcore, which a 5T digger couldn't do.

I don't use cedar, because I like the timber coloured. Others like the greying. So I prefer softwood and sikkens. But I think the original concern is overstated. How much acid? Rain would wash it away. Anyway, You can bitumen inside and relax.

What is the interface? How does the timber contact the gutter? I had read the question as being the cedar can release acids somehow into the gutter.

Agreed its chunky and modern. Not agricultural imo.

One of the great disciplines on BH is saying nothing when you have nothing to say. But I'm experienced in this, so it is duty to say...I don’t know. Lindab is seriously good. So if they have a ready made product that suits, then use it. But I'm assuming the question is about an internal gutter, fabricated then galvanised. In such a situation I haven't heard of aluminium being used. Maybe it can. But the reasons against it may be strength and durability.

You can paint the inside of the gutter with bitumen paint. We used to have such paint supplied as standard along with internal gutters. It had the physical advantages of stopping any repetitive drips from wearing the galv off, and extra sealing at joints. Now I think of it, there was aluminium dust mixed in which rose to the surface, which returned the sheen for reflecting the sun. I've no idea if that is a standard product. Use bitumen paint anyway and it will do what you need. I would not recommend an internally colour coated metal. It will laminate in time and the galvanising coat is minimal.

MacDonald's ratio?

Which could reduce the total number of turbines required.

But it is very complex. Will the powers (I know) communicate? Ness remains the second deepest Loch even when 100mm is borrowed, but the murky bottom may be disturbed, along with creatures.

That's quite a pump isn't it? Best not swim near either end. I wonder if that flow change is noticeable downstream. You wouldn't want it during storm conditions. That now partly answered by PD.

Ask thd bco. I know this is planning but they are the same authority in the Scottish process. Once upon a time you could put pegs in the corners and be photographed using a theodolite. Maybe strip the site. Nowadays they tend to want to see some construction. Eg a hole with concrete in it or a section of drain. Perhaps some services in or modified. Access as @ProDavecan be good. Choose something easyish but constructive and suggest it to the bco. They will understand. But do it or there is a genuine chance of losing the permission.

And that is surplus power to pump the loch up the mountain. Looks as if many a Ben will be turbined. This probably links with the current (I know) plan to build a new power line south, skirting the Cairngorms, from Nairnshire to the Lowlands. I've been in such a pump storage tunnel during construction. The scale is bogglingly huge. Of course it may be that the plan is to pump water up over many days of plenty, to use in extremes or whatever earns most. ie sell more cheap power at imported gas prices.