saveasteading

Sorry, that was unnecessarily glib. Turbines on fields. Solar on industrial roofs and walls. Let the plants grow. There is a theoretical problem with solar on older or agricultural roofs as the additional wind load can be huge and they aren't designed for it. Perhaps Government could reduce the factor of safety, solely for solar.

That's not the same as building regs for pipe depth. There's nothing magic about 900mm either and I'd think the aerobics that far down are ineffectual. I haven't seen any science on the subject, just don't know how oxygen could replenish at depth. I suspect 900mm is an "out of harms way" statement that is preferable to silence on the subject, and tends to be practical.

Not that difficult to steer around a big column surely? Or a pylon.

Please show your source.

Useful pics. Flashings are generally made in 3m lengths because the bending presses are made that size. In 1mm metal they are usually overlapped and it shows. In 2mm it can bd butted, with a back plate but needs pop rivets at the least. 2mm will be much the best for stiffness but is expensive and with limited colours. Even that must be fitted without twisting or the sheen will exaggerate any change. That's a great drawing. It seems optimistic to me, getting the u bends made with the right size of gap, then mastic to keep it tight. I guess you could screw inside the gutter and at the soffit. These bits don't travel well. Do you have a local fabricator? I used to have to drive about 30 miles to a cladding merchant who served mainly the agriculture industry, then drive back very slowly with these on the roof, trying to bend. If you can find one I would visit and get advice from the machine operator. They will know exactly what is possible. I still recommend battens to square it all up and avoid contact with the main faces.

There is a proposal for even more pump storage using Loch Ness. Apparently it already rises and falls 50mm. installed capacity of 1.8GW with a stored capacity of up to 36GWh, providing 20hrs of storage 1. Can a boffin advise how much energy this is, in relation to a power station / town size/ number of wind turbines or other convenient comparison? 2. Should there be a levy payable to Highland Region, for exported power?

For any CE nerds. I once had to design a surface water drain, about 300dia and 2.5m deep. It was in danger of collapsing under gte weight of thd backfill ( by digging and refilling, the interlock and load spread is lost). We filled half the depth with straw bales to reduce the dead weight and it could also float a bit.

The depths are guidelines that avoid analysis and are conservative. To the best of my understanding, the logic is thus: Q The minimum is to keep below trouble, be lower than any wheel loads will damage, and away from frost risk. None of these may apply in your situation. The max depth is to avoid the weight of trench fill crushing the pipe. If you protect the pipe and backfill very thoroughly then a bit more won't matter. Shallower is better of course, for economy and safety. Re the frost risk. What chance is there of sewage freezing? It flows briefly down the pipe and away. Workmanship is important at slow gradients to avoid lips and dips. I think at the steading, where the winter can be chilly , from -300mm cover for both foul and surface water. It wasn't questioned. Was that realism from the bco or because it was a formal design, I don't know. Another thing you can do is have open gullies and slopes, so if ever the pipe blocks, the water runs away harmlessly.

An established biggish company might have a close relationship. Small ones unlikely. You could ask an SE for a site visit and just pay for the time and a quick opinion on the likely scenario. A written report costs more of course. Then think again of the best way forward, depending on the situation. In the ideal scenario there is no structural significance, and then there will be no building regs, and the SE will write to state all that. Otherwise the builder will be guessing.

Just providing a technical solution would be enough. They probably can't though because it is a specialist skill. I've designed such flashings, hence my comments above. ie I'm saying don't use aluminium. 3 profiles is right. They are bent to order from a standard sheet colour, and then each of them is sliced to make into a corner, all by a specialist. Plus end details. Then cut a hole for the spout and seal it somehow. Anybody got any suggestions for invisible fixings? I'd love it if I'm wrong and somebody knows a way. You could think about one simpler flashing covering the large vertical, fixed on battens to remove the wobbles. Then paint or stain below. You still have the corners and ends to make and fix.

In that case, yes it does.

That applies for new build. You have constraints so the bco should give latitude.

I'd say it is possible but at huge cost. The house is almost certainly constructed from that higher level, so would need a retaining wall. Could traffic calming be the solution? 20mph is simply ignored by many, but a chicane can work. Not that the council will have the funds for it unless there is a history of accidents.

I can have a think later but immediate comment is that the timber work is too approximate. Aluminum will follow the shapes and exaggerate them with the sheen . Will this straighten? Otherwise I think batten first. will you accept visible screws?

The cheapest rwh I ever installed was a series of IBCs. 4m3 for £400 plus some plumbing. It was only for buckets of water for slunging vehicles OR could be set to dribble to slow down flow to drains and ground. Not pretty but the client loved the value.

That's pretty standard. You are laying out funds that could otherwise earn interest. It also depends on catching all the rain in any storm. So for a dual pitched roof there may be more drains and deeper runs. Yes, or part of the proposal at least. But anything differing from the accepted hierarchy can be difficult for a planner to accept, and you get into the need for an expert proposal. I showed planners why a harvester was better than a green roof, for example, which surprised them.

Generally yes. That's why I m considering that the wall might be contributing stability in some other way.

If your ceilings are simply screwed up to the trusses, and there are no other joists, then it may indeed be that simple: you have a big empty space subdivided, and the walls are all nonstructural ( and no lintels.) Should have asked earlier...what is the wall built of?

OK I see that now. Also I now notice that you have shown the retention of the wall at the doors. That will help a lot. If you include a builder of some standing, they may include the Engineer and BCO in a package price, and warranty.

OK, sounds sensible to look at builders' rough costings first for feasibility. But allow a contingency for some remedial works, as I'm pretty sure you will need a beam / long lintel over where these 2 doors are, and a pier left on the outer wall, plus bits and pieces that the builders will exclude. what does this indicate please? the long red line looks here to be a beam with joists sitting on it., but then a big gap with no joists.

In my office example above the calculations said use 5m3. I went for 10 which I think was right as it never ran dry. Negligible garden use. I think the ROI on the extra 5m3 would have been very short as it was only the extra tank cost...about £1k? Well done on the exercise.

Nice to see your calls. From a quick skim. The garden usage looks high. A) perhaps showing a falsely high cost/ potential cost.. b) you would empty the tank in 3 weeks of no rain. Water cost sqm should be cm ? Does waste cost belong here as a cost? You could show the saving due to lower purchase volume perhaps.

If you take out all of that wall, then you have a double door opening. Joists must be sitting on lintels above the doors if not on the wall you want out. So yes you will need a big lintel. Also, although that wall may not be supporting joists it may be important to the stability of the building in other ways. This is not to be taken lightly. I think it needs building control at the least. The builders should be advising this.

That is important with long dry summers becoming more the norm. Excuse me if you've said already, but what capacity? was changing the pump very technical? ie is there justification for a specialist?

IF. It's best to know. Put some water down and see if it comes through.