saveasteading

i used about 300mm., mostly in the ground. i know that @marshian's will work too because I have great success with brambles spreading thus. Good idea actually and i do it with rosemary: just lay a branch on the ground with a brick on it. slightly snapping the branch seems to help too. not so convenient if pinching a bit from elsewhere.

The easiest tree to grow from a branch or root cutting.

I was trying to use them, but I think the noses are too wide and too thick. maybe mine are not actually gland pliers but something similar but chunkier. I had to jam in a screwdriver to wedge the nut in position, and that worked.

I've got this and its a powerful shower. . A very few splashes may wander out but onto a mat which feet will make much wetter. I like it and would do it again, and is so much nicer than a door. Another decision I'm pleased with is to fit a big grab handle, whether your family needs it or not. With it there it is second nature to hold it when manoeuvering or lifting a foot, and avoid slips. Stainless steel screws too. I don't think it looks clunky, just sensible.

I can advise on what I'd do different next time, having done it for the first time last month, after great advice from BH. Bigger box. My sausage fingers needed lots of room for wiggling wires about and to get a spanner inside. I'd def use the one from screwfix because the knockouts /seals are brilliant compared with what I tried first. SF say its unbranded but that is wrong. Wagos. I failed with screw connectors because there is so much wire and its stiff. Bought cheap connectors from SF and succeeded but didn't like them so Wago next time. Tightening the nuts. Really awkward and the extra space will help. Earth. I used the supplied terminal but the one mentioned above seems much easier and more secure. There is a good video on Facebook which helped with basics. I hate to think how long the first endvtook me. Several goes at it because I'd tangled or left something off. Stop and think. The other end 1/4 the time.

Does that summarise it? But Germany presumably think its OK. The WP had readers' comments including that the US power companies are very anti.

This is from the Washington Post. Does it happen here as well as in Germany? Typically 800W. In Germany, balcony solar is hugely popular: as many as 4 million systems hang on railings there, equivalent to the capacity of several large power plants. (Yes, there is a one-word German name for it: Balkonkraftwerke.

I've got a fig in a big pot (actually an inpection chamber ring) and it grows but never fruits. Perhaps because it's from a Spanish cutting. Is yours a UK friendly variety?

Brackets fixed to the rafters (probably the sides then a twist) or to the wall.

OK. Paddle lines, colour variations, perhaps some microcracking. It's a matter of taste. But do ensure that the contractor is a specialist ( does nothing else) and is aware this will be exposed and of your expectations.

Good thinking. The building regulations are accessible online and straightforward too. Downhill all the way with access for clearing blockages and that's about it. It's all logical but BH will help with challenges or queries.

I hope you are not expecting a beautiful surface that needs no covering. "Polished" is a warehouse finish.

With one client whose architect would not contemplate external gutters, and with only the end available for outlets, I doubled up on outlets, ie a full gutter would flow over one to the next one. On another we took the gutter out through the gable to a big hopper with external dp, and with an overflow wier... so any freak rain would overflow outdoors. Once the water is in the downpipe it will cope easily, its the entry to the dp that is restricting. ie overdesigned acc to the regs. I imagine and hope that they coped with this year's downpours. External gutters are good and why hide such an important feature of a building?

For fertiliser yes.

Anybody know a good reason for pumping it out. Gravity seldom fails so I like it. Ditto. Always full for the chambers that work that way. A big plus for me is that they will continue to work 90% ( well enough) if there is no power or the pump breaks

Steel goalpost built 200mm or whatever to the front. Clad sides and roof. Move door forward fixed to the frame. a lot of money for small benefit.

What comes out is liquid and looks almost clean. If you have a test chamber you will have the comfort of seeing, even testing, this. A chamber is a good idea anyway. What muck remains in the effluent will continue to break down in the soakaway. A pump should be unnecessary and is another thing to go wrong. I wonder why a manufacturer has one included apart from draining uphill.

If you mmean, cut square to length then thats ok. If an angle maybe not. When the geometry becomes apparent, please ask here before cutting the end off. It ceases to be a beam if you take the top or bottom flange off, but some angle will probably be OK. The welder should also add the horizontal bearing plate discussed above.

There shouldn't be gaps... should be level. But at least they have packed them as some might just have built squint. We have sole plates going onto an existing slab, with 20mm variation. So we will pack with plastic packers: probably horseshoe shape. Then inject non-shrink grout possibly from both sides, and then "point" the outside, pressing it in. BUT for the big gaps I favour dry pack. A sharp sand and cement grout, with just enough water to make it workable. This way it can be forced under and packed tight so it is known to be 100% full and dense, and the low water means it won't shrink. That might work with dry-mixed expanding grout, but it won't help. Diy, as only you really care.

Yes to levelling off sand, but I'd suggest add cement to the sand. Otherwise you will have gaps for ever. Then go 100mm eps, then 100mm pir with staggered joints, then 90 screed. Insulation provides diminishing returns with thickness, so this is a pragmatic proposal. Ie the saving with eps is quite a lot, but the extra heat loss will be low.

Correct. It is promising though. You can diy the test.

Re the first photo. Thd padstone looks good but the old wall it is half sitting on looks slender. If you look in the cavity can you see wall ties holding the skins together so it acts as one wall? And I think the ends need tying together. These perhaps

Sounds amazing. How did they do the boreholes? Then the percolation test in a pit?

Re the steel beam. What are they welding? Do you have the removed bit to put that back on? I don't see a padstone for under it.

Agreed. Its my subject and I sometimes forget other people don't read the ground.... and once I was too cocky and got it badly and expensively wrong. If you are going to use a Structural Engineer then talk to them early. They may have information on adjacent plots. That might limit the survey required to being a digger doing a couple of relatively shallow holes. For example where I am now I know there is 80m or more of solid clay because a plot nearby did boreholes. Plus I have dug below the soil and found blue clay. BUT my mistake back then was not to dig a few holes, as we found there had been a pit and it was filled with rubbish. You must avoid that. Then, with certainty on the ground conditions you will likely make all that cost back as the SE now has certainty on the ground properties. It may be important for soakaways too, if you need that.