saveasteading

For me... have the steel z rails for the walls (pedants corner: it is only called a purlin if it is on the roof). Then fix 2 x 2 timbers vertically, and cement board over them. Then render. There isn't an advantage in cladding panels other than if insulated, as I wouldn't fix cement board direct to it, but would fix horizontal timber first. Ohhh, and metal cladding would provide a slightly quicker enclosure if a few days matter.

3 cores

Could it be that the old cable has failed in flexing it? It has been there for the over 30 years I've lived here. I was going to change it later but perhaps should do it now.

No, it is is practicality. Decades ago, hilti guns were standard and almost hitched to steel erectors' belts. Since then, other options have taken over: less macho but better in safety and effectiveness. Powerful battery drills being the main change, but also screw technology. For the erector, this means a drill can be carried to awkward places with no trailing wires, and drill then screw. As the Engineer and contractor it resulted in safer working and a much more certain fixing.

If you go on the James Jones website there is an interactive joist span table. You have a wide span and must accept deep joists. From it you can see different joist specs at different centres. At some stage they can end up so close together with such wide flanges that it is nearly a solid floor. Or use a steel, and hang the joists in the same zone.

For a few mm, Tek screws from a big name are expensive and worth it. Heavies I recall is the term With a single use blade they get through 2mm easily in what, 20 seconds? It's years since I was hands-on, but from memory the best had a blade welded across the tip. There is no chance of them popping off later. For 40mm you need a few screws, or to predrill with a quality bit.

On a site they will claim the slab is dirty and its not their job to clean the floor. If the floor is clean.... they were going to do it later... but progress is the priority. terrible. So have I picked up my clippings which are on earth or tarmac? Some. I'll have a word with myself later. I bought a box af SF. It reads as if it is unbranded but it's the same as the existing one.... pop outs not grommets. Also lever connectors. No excuses left...but what if I can't see any stray wire causing a short?

Nice idea. But that was the easiest bit. A really sharp knife helped too....must check I didn't do damage with it. For connections inside the boxes I've used old-fashioned screwed terminal strips. Would modern lever connectors be better? I see some at screwfix are a fraction of the cost of the bigger name wago. I like the idea of getting second shots at it too, ie the lever releases. The wago's I used once were push-in and perhaps fixed. I'm thinking I will buy a better and bigger box today, and lever connectors.

I did find a good one and worked to it. To your tips it adds using a hacksaw for the first sleeve cut, then the armour wires are weakened for snapping off.

Thanks all. Ill have a proper read through later. The earth tags just about work in getting a fix, but it's not tight. The existing box I now see has these fixed size pop- outs as described and the same make as the photo. ....hence the first one went well. The second one is a proper outdoors box from my stores.. def not so good. Probably from Homebase sale 10 years ago. The cable I've replaced looks like bell wire. its amazing it worked so long underground. I've cut it where it runs up the wall, and will later replace it Into the house. It's also quite brittle But I've connected it. But the power tripped when I turned it on. Grrrr I'll give it a look at tomorrow and hope to see where the short is. It shouldn't be difficult but it's all tight for space in the box. Any ideas why swa has grey wires not blue? Have I done anything silly? Brown to brown Grey to blue Earth or bare wire to black.

Excellent that was my next plan. I was disappointed to not find any big washers in my multiple tins of fixings.... they justify keeping even more. It was useful to remind myself what I do have though.

That's superb info. It might be wetter if there was no road, because that is a lot of hillside collecting rain. Are the other storeys dry, or you can't tell because they are tanked/ covered? You need people from Edinburgh for this. There are tower blocks from the 1800s with 9 storeys above ground, facing downhill, fewre facing uphill, and into basements. Sandstone too. Google Earth: West Bow, Edinburgh That's the good news.. they lasted a long time.

So it's the wrong box, made for multiple cable sizes and the hole is too big? I see in your pic, there is a grommet for the small cable. I've a thought. The cable entry is at the bottom and has the supplied shroud so water won't get in. A couple of washers might suffice as tightening surfaces.

I bought a replacement flush outlet for a Roca concealed toilet. Best price about £35 on amazon. TP got it specially for £16. It helps to have a big order pending.

No magic chemicals I know of, and most would alter the stone. Is it a flat or sloping area? Ie where is the water coming from? Does it vary seasonally?

If you want to keep the sandstone for interest or heritage, then you are limited. A sump and pump, forced ventilation, and dpm the floor above. If the stone can be concealed then there are sheet products made for basements.

I agree re Travis P. Great for some stuff (depends on branch even) but not drainage. I've found that my old favourite JDP is no longer interested in small sales and charge a lot....they seem to depend on having lots of heavy gear in stock for emergency repairs. But try an alternative to Osma.

My first time hands on with SWA. I've done one end of this cable into an existing box. Slow but successful. At the other end the grommet is deeper than the thread and I can't tighten it. If I take the next diameter off the grommet for depth, the fixing goes straight through. The grommet doesn't compress either. Am I doing something wrong or is there a trick?

The quality can be very different esp ease of connection. I once had SF (or was it TS) that were very cheap but very difficult to insert. The optimum is likely to be from a smaller drainage specialist. At the steading we found onevery locally that brought in a German brand. The price was much lower than SF or the local (and keen) BM. The joints were easy. Keep looking.

In case it helps. I once (business not private) had a quote for a new transformer required for our client's new truck garage. ie a lot of power needed. One of these big ones with a fence round it. 200k or so, I can't remember. Because it had so much spare capacity we got the cost halved. This was negotiated by a specialist who does nothing else.

I thought they were push fits (and a bit scary to use). so you push then tighten?

And they want paying for that? Grrrr!

It's density you need from the board. The blue board is a quarter heavier than the grey, for twice the price. 2 layers of normal board is better sound proofing and you can lap the joints. You will lose 12.5mm more room and have more work.

Not really. The main purpose is that the reinforcement is at the intended position. When the slab tries to bend under load, the steel goes into tension and takes the load. It needs concrete all around it and so be off the bottom. The supports can be concrete as shown, or butterfly shapes, or can be plastic usually in wheel shapes. For a ground bearing floor slab it isn't going to matter. Pre-guessing @Nick Laslett likes the convenience. And that lots, as shown, allows walking over the mesh.

In what way please I'm interested to learn? My comments after yours.