saveasteading

Why not? Tidiness is good. Easy to find all the pipes in time of need, and then to expose and work on the dodgy one. Drawings disappear, but the services route can be guessed, then confirmed with a detector. Much reduced risk of damage through careless digging, planting etc. Reduced digging and no crossovers. Don't forget the marker tape, which isn't shown on the drawing. It comes in huge rolls so we probably all have lots left in the shed.

Agreed, as the easy and elegant solution. 2 outlets halves the depth, roughly speaking. Also, If the gutter is level then the ends are not the best places. A single outlet would be best at the middle, or a pair at third points, or near to that if avoiding a window.. The water has far less distance to travel and the area of roof being carried at anypoint is much reduced. You might even add a weir overflow at an end...as an overflow outside is much better than inside. Plus a well designed outlet is wider than the downpipe, and the increased flow is dramatic....check that your people have not simply joined 2 rectangles together. Do not fit leaf guards. Let them come down the pipe and have an open gully at the bottom. All your issues can be resolved one by one. A warranty is not what you want...you simply want it sorted.

Without reading back. Knowing nothing about your roof. Not many architects will be expert in roof detailing. Some roofers are remarkably ignorant of how water flows. They get away with it because people don't like heights. So you've been unlucky but are not to blame. I'd be surprised if you need a reroof. You need a proper expert. A contractor who is looking to help, not to get a big job. Where to start? The local press advertising,. But only one in 5 will be any good. Ask at the local roofers' merchants. Beware, they only recommended customers...you want a long established one. Pictures?

A small extension would allow wind to whip over the surface and suck out air, purging the pipes. What about a chimney spinner or "granny" ? Modern ones spin on ball-bearing silently. But I'd think of a way to vent before the house, at that cover. Bigger holes or a pipe. But. Air test first. Remember the builder is keen for it to pass. There are ways to fiddle it.

That looks like it. It will be full of concrete so very heavy. 35kg or so?

As a professional designer and contractor I preferred the English way of being able to start quickly and sort details out as it proceeded. BUT I think the Scottish requirement for full details is the better idea in regards to quality and certainty. It also allows time to debate or resolve any issue with the BCO, and thus no delays or arguments once it is all running. The main difference in conversions is that the Scottish regulations allow pragmatism. 'As far as reasonably practicable' is stated a lot. For example we proposed leaving some attractive masonry exposed internally, whereas strict interpretation required it being insulated and boarded over. The bco was in full agreement and it was a verbal agreement. You appear to be doing new-build. The same apples to, I think, a lesser extent.

This is a vague memory: I think the handle is basically a hooked rod and there is space around the hole for it to get purchase. 2 hooks lift it and get a block under, then do the other end. It is probably badlu gummed up. i've looked online and they seem to be mostly for light weight covers. and these hooks look too long. Maybe ask at a specialist drainage merchant. JDP etc.

Test would have spotted the leak. It's such an easy thing too, especially in sections as the work progresses. Not so easy with the apprentice balancing 3m above the roof.

Won't do the windows much good either. As there is scaffolding it would be easy to place a model hawk there. I have tried a plastic owl, full sized, with rotating head, which fooled humans but not birds.. but for £15 it might be worth a try. I have heard that a black silhouette of a hawk works better, and would move in the wind if hung in front of the window. Then it needs to be moved occasionally.

Is there a Grrrr/ annoyed icon? That is very unfair and reflects badly on the architect. Perhaps that's how he thinks and works, so assumes everyone is the same, or he hasn't the knowledge to discuss costs. after all the client pays it all so he isn't bothered. As a contractor I was always pleased to have zero extras. Partly as pride, and partly because a client can have no perception of being overcharged. It helps towards repeat business too. Also though because changes are a pain. They have to be recorded and clarified formally , then drawings and schedules altered and circulated. Then the cost difference has to be calculated, and there is always some increased risk. If only clients didn't change their minds.

So we are back to the @ProDavescenario. The gases will go out of the vent but also towards the house so the joint seals must be checked. I've had some very poor quality seals at times, from very cheap pipes (I've also had great ones cheap). The rubbers were hard and fitting was difficult without forcing. So it is a likely source...it could be tight enough to keep water inside but allow gas through,, especially under pressure. Is it safe to leave one of the outdoor covers off as a interim trial to vent the drain? It will also encourage a permanent draught. As a positive, digester thanks settle down after a while. But that is all the more reason to get it sorted now, before the nuisance reduces for a while.

The smell will be created within the tank. That should vent out of the pipe you describe, but imagine a great burp from the depths ...it will go back up the drain as well as the vent. Is there a manhole between the tank and the house? if that has air holes then that might help. But bottom line is that the pipes in the house should not release any smell. Ahhh. also check that all basin, bath and shower drains have water in the trap.

I would say no too. However much you trust the person you are dealing with, inevitably it will be delegated. Mess, compaction and the risk that they don't get round to clearing it when you want / properly / ever. And who will agree the before / after condition and what happens if you aren't content. If they offer £500 then that may be another matter. The cost to them of a grab lorry twice would be more. Will your insurance will cover it? I doubt they would approve. Sorry but....You have taken advice from industry experts is the easy response....

Including the vent pipe from the tank?

@Indy you don't know what you don't know....yet. ie there are risks beyond your imagination. I suggest you accept that there is a cost for reducing these. 10% to 20%? That can be an industry professional to assist you, or an established builder with a good reputation and history.. Either has a cost to you, in fees or overheads.

A smell in a cupboard suggests a leaking junction, so maybe all the pipe connections are suspect. Where does the drainage go? Sewer or treatment tank?

It is upmarket bubblewrap . OK for a garden shed but I wouldn't advise it in a house.

What sort of advice? About the likelihood of flood, or construction methods? The likelihood of flood is openly published but likely to be out of date with recent trends. Construction? Follow the building regulations and cross fingers? Varying from that may be best but insurers won't approve.

the purpose being to stop weeds. that should be completed by now. Also to keep dampness down in the earth. It is not intended to be flooded from above. My hunch is that it is best to remove it, but what about the bco? the bco needs to see it in place as normal if they are to approve normal construction. BUT we should not deceive the bco so I am 'writing aloud' not advising this....more research is needed. My very old books show a layer of cinders or concrete instead of the plastic. That was never damp-proof but will have moderated seasonal changes.

That works best if you have the time. Otherwise there is always some reason that they are delayed by the others. You really need to talk to them a lot about anything they need done, or left undone. I find its best to have something 'useful' to do around the place so I can keep an eye out, be available, but not hanging around in the way or being seen to be watching. If that means clearing up after them so be it, as long as they know its a favour.

You would need to keep that very clean. No spiders, no lichen.

What is a human worth? That is how we (society) decide whether to improve a road junction / other hazard. It isn't mentioned openly as the general public would be appalled / disgusted while having no alternative. A drawing not showing a cable could be called a fault perhaps. Trusing it and not scanning progressively "just in case" could be fault 2. Breaking it fault 3. Station shuts down is 4. This seems inflationary so perhaps some are combined.

Did I ever tell you BHers about when i was looking down a deep hole at the side of a new motorway? Digging for a huge traffic sign foundation 6x3x2m deep or so.. A white van screamed up and a man jumped out waving and shouting "stop". He knew there was a vital telephone cable to the nearby power station.....it just wasn't on any drawing. Apparently the power stn would have shut down. I can't remember if we found it.....I would remember if it was broken. I think hand digging with rubber shovels must have been involved. If it is avoided is that N ?? or nothing at all?

My feeling is yes. But welcome any other thoughts. It can stay very wet in a damp basement for a long time/permanently. i doubt the bco will agree because it is off the wall thinking. what about forced ventilation? A fan system. Perhaps just build in a pipe sticking out of the wall (above flood level) that a suction pipe cold be fitted to. Not that you will ever see in there again until the floor collapses. anti flood air bricks haven't heard of these. got a picture or link?

1. Try to stop water entering the void. Any airbricks vented up above flood level. Tanking. 2. If it fills it must drain again quickly. So no solum membrane. Then it needs lots of ventilation. 3. Poly barrier between floor and flooring.