saveasteading

Great. Downhill all the way though. Otherwise silt, as we will call it, may build up in the flat.

English rules were the same, last time I looked.

If that door is new, then there will be a spec for it, including insulation. It might be better than nyou think. What freezing part of the world is it, very approximately?

A core drilled hole under existing foundations? Do you simply intend to fit a 6" masonry cutter to a drill? That should work n chalk well enough. Gtting the sope right will be a challenge. Get your SE to specify what fills the gap after the pipe is in. Anything will do, but you done want it queried by the bco. I would dig a trench in the chalk to both sides of the wall, wide enough to get your drill in, then core out under the found, then backfill however instructed. (a specialist would charge many hundreds to drill 2m)

if you want any more thoughts on the ground and foundations, then we would need to see the report, or at least the summary. But thoughts is all it can be at this stage.

And water will pour through it, by all the rules of Murphy , Sod, Butterside et al.

https://www.dunelm.com/product/jennings-natural-thermal-eyelet-curtains-1000143703 have a read of the comments.

I don't know, but a blackout curtain will certainly be impervious to air, which I think is the main issue.

No. Nothing is cheaper for that reason. Curtains, bedding, timber, cheaper in uk Tiles, Wine, cheese, branded european goods, cheaper eu. Google dunelm mill thermal curtains

The outflow from a package treatment can go straight to watercourse. The volumes are low so do not increase flood risk. Rainwater should not. The 5m rule is to stop it interfering with existing or future buildings of neighbours. Or, i would suggest, it creating a direct stream to the watercourse and increasing flood risk downstream. Where there is an orchard it may be reasonable to assume that it will not be developed..depends where it is.

I read the regs as, yes it does. The formula is based on volume of water and percolation rate, then allows 1/3 reduction for a trestment plant. That is a crazily small reduction. The resulting drainage field is then stupidly huge. For a 4 bed house on clay you could be in the 100m2 of drainage field area My solution is to calculate draw the whole thing, then do it in phases...with phases 2 and 3 taking a while. The jcb driver said he has put in dozens of tanks, but never seen more than an old fashioned soakaway...so bco doesn't seem interested. But then, the jcb driver hadn't seen anyone checking if the tank was level, or being surrounded with gravel or... etc. Drainage tunnels seem no different to a perf pipe with lots of gravel. If i was a bco i might accept that as a reasonable equivalent. .

You are not expected to replace asbestos cladding with more asbestos, or even fibre cement, Replace with grey steel cladding without asking. If at all nervous send a courtesy note to the planner. Have to repair, going to use x in colour y. You prob won't get a reply but are covered.

I had one of those, same problem, tried everything and failed. Sold the flat, with the issue, but would othereisd probably have changed the screen.

They look good. For somd reason, curtains are half the price in britain. We use Dunelm Mill. So worth a look. I did, £48.

That looks like an industrial door (for a warehouse). Probably made of flat steel folded to shape, with a polystyrene core. So insulated, but with a lot of cold bridges at the circumference and some through the structure. Does it feel cold? Covering the inside would be feasible but ugly. I stick with the big curtain solution. It will isolate the room air from the door and reduce air cooling.

A photo of the door would help. If from a recognised uk suppler it is probably insulated. Reflective surfaces send some energy back where it came from. Indoors though, not a lot.

Quite right. It can allow the SE to be precise rather than sensibly cautious, and save more than its cost. I just mean, work with the SE and that is likely to be a relevant but not overblown report.

First check that the door is not insulated. Metal doors are often filled with polystyrene. There is still a lot of conduction through the edges though. Fabric wont make much difference, but a heavy curtain could slow the flow of air. You could face the inner side with thin insulation. What is the context? Is that your door? It looks like a deep-freeze door.

Maths is a tool. Numbers don't exist. That is until a certain level, where maths becomes philosophy, but the mathematicians cannot necessarily understand the practical use of sums or quantities. I showed a construction drawing to a PhD mathematician, and he was a bit boggled by the concept of scale.

My thing. Tell us more about the ground, tree varieties and distances and the optimum answer should be clear enough. NB not all Architects and SEs know the relative costs of methods. For now, assume piling costs for reasons of caution, and we can try to save cost later. Re the building structure. to some extent it depends on the building. Simple shapes suit kits, complex shapes suit being built on site. That could also affect the foundations decision. This doesn't always need to be complex. If you find an SE who knows your local ground conditions, then a couple of holes dug with them in attendance may suffice. Are / have any other houses being built nearby?

I don't agree. I think the flow of air upwards from an efficient radiator can be quite strong, and of course draws in more air from below. Any blunt obstruction close to the rad is going to interfere with that air flow. For a big lump of a radiator it may not matter so much. I have no evidence other than observation, in hydraulics labs and of fire experiments. Hot air rises. Obstructions limit flow.

Our joiner is off to do work more to his liking. No falling out, it is just that he has been great at 'big and new,' and doesn't want the fiddly stuff. Our family and friend team has therefore been installing stud, to create a box in a box, and cross-walls. Very impressive so far for beginners. (They have had a year now of getting to know all the trades so far, and done a lot of the work) The attention to detail to form an airtight box would not otherwise have been so good. Plus they have the luxury of stopping to think, or have a conference call. As a result we are also retaining more height and width in the roof rooms, and paying attention to acoustics through walls. They will keep asking around for another joiner (there are 2 stairs, then more stud, and kitchens,) But, just in case, how easy or difficult or easy is it to install a stair, made by one of the specialists? My feeling is that it is easy enough. The thing is that I have supervised dozens of stairs (timber, steel, concrete) but never been hands on, apart from decisions to overcome issues. If it looks easy then.....either it is easy, or they are skilled at it. Up til now I have been able to give crash courses, but stairs are, wait for it, on a different level. The stairs will be riser, spiral, riser so pretty standard, made of pine, and the openings are already formed. All fixings to timber. Not ordered yet.

This is your friend for the summer. Sun hits slate and makes it hot, air flows through and under the slates and carries a lot of the heat away. After that, your added insulation will do the rest, except for a few days a year. I have little time for multi-foil. I even attended a building control presentation by one of the MF companies. (an excuse for free sandwiches). I kept quieter than usual, and my questions were polite, but there was a tendency towards...'this is approved by BC', 'the normal way of measuring insulation is not helpful'. It absolutely depends on the air gaps on both sides, and a layer of dpm or bubble wrap would do at lest half as well, and better if reflective. Therefore I would save the cost of MF and instead buy PIR. Read previous posts re gap filling. Then line with more inside for the insulation and as a thermal break, before boarding. RE the strength of the rafters. The area at the eaves is pretty useless, so if you build a small wall down there, it will be tidier. But it wall also stiffen the rafters significantly. Put down a wall plate first to spread the load, then fit a stud up into every rafter, with plenty of ring-shank nails or screws. then insulate and board. Propping a rafter at 1/4 span pretty well doubles the strength. Perhaps add some sockets.

found it. Diagonal braces added, which makes it very much stronger and improves the appearance. And stick cover for shade. like this, tied down by wires onto screws .this sort of stuff

Found. The rafters are screwed down with very long screws. dont seem to have a photo with the covering.