saveasteading

But I do. Does the answer become yes?

Good work. I would have guessed it went much further but that is the point of challenging and checking isn't it. I make it 3 x that by mental arithmetic, so if the rest is about right, 2% of the new houses. Rather than bury, that has to be worth while. I checked out the possibility of buying local fleeces but the cleaning is the problem. fleeces are messy and tangled and dense. But that is where organised technology should come in. Using green energy and no caustic solutions of course.

No. Most of it will be redundant. yes for toilets and perhaps yes for kitchens as it will support whatever you hang from it. Otherwise I have only specified it in certain school corridors because we know plasterboard will get kicked in.

Isn't glass technically liquid?

For the record. Size of hole and thickness of steel, and how long to cut including setting up?

Yes, i bought 2 sizes some years ago, thinking they were briliant. But they are unused because they would have remained visible in every case so far. For use in a plant room or cupboard perhaps.

You should have drilled another hole above first, to hook the safety line. There are goggles that fit over specs. Worth looking for. I think mind came off some official "look at our project" site visit. But where are they?

I'd say pragmatic rather than downbeat. Midnight with a glass of wine brings out the inner feelings. The wallet thing is key. Most people will buy what they want, if it is cheap enough, and it will be from China. If wool insulation was the same cost as glass insulation then we woild use it as standard. Farmers lose money each fleece so they are very very cheap. A reborn wool marketing board could turn this around. If nothing burnable was buried or exported, but used for power then clay bricks could replace concrete and eps. And 100% recycling plastic into whatever. Subsidised house improvements will quickly repay the investment. And so on. Put Gus in charge and i will help, and it could all be sorted....BUT would the government allow big oil and other cosy relationships to suffer? Most of all perhaps, who in govermnent would understand anything slightly technical...a different mindset.

You are right of course. This is what they do and they know their costs. They also appear to know that they can put up their prices and still get the work. I was meaning pricing a project generally, esp not knowing who will build it. If all contractors quoted the same price then we wouldn't need to get more than one quote. The industry seems to think that large scale housing projects will slow down dramatically in May/ June as housing developers complete projects but don't start much new. Whether that capacity will feed through quickly to reduced cost nobody knows.

I agree with Radian. We once had multiple toilet cubicles to be fitted by the manufacturer, and they were clearly wary of the wall fixing efficacy. You would think they would have a preferred solution. After research we supplied these expanding fixings with rivet gun. It worked really well. Fitted impressed and no follow-up issues after years in a school. Without the gun these fixings are a pain.

Galvanised is safest but expensive. Painting on site with the right, specialist paint is fine, as long as it is properly done (esp the bits which can't be seen) (which usually means you do it yourself or watch full time). £50 / tin of Ruberoid etc. Plus labour of course. Galvanising a beam specially....I'm guessing £200+ plus transport each way. Likely to be a long and heavy beam, so maybe much more.

Floor joists must sit on structural walls, so yes, some internal walls will be structural, with footings. There is nothing magic about 6m, but it is the standard maximum for timbers at a merchant. Longer is special. But at 6m clear span joists get very deep, so you are getting into intermediate steel beam territory, or fabricated (and deep) joists.

Looked it up online. So much history, not all nice. Vikings, fossils, salmon, golf, gold, clearances.

I think it is now permitted development to have a caravan throughout the works. Ours came from GNR Sutherland too. If you have good access (we didn't), the ex holiday park 'caravans' can be good value, esp if you don't mind the first job being to do it up, as they have been very well used. But watch the £1,000 transport each way. And perhaps more difficult to resell.

It is pretty impossible to provide a realistic cost. Our joiner got a qs to cost his work, and I thought it was high. I analysed it and found 10% added to all quantities. Then extras which the joiner agreed he didn't need, and some doubling up. So the agreed price was 30% less and I think the joiner did OK. But that 30% could have been needed in different circumstances. Also as I have explained elsewhere, there are multiple oncosts when using a main contractor and project managers. It depends an awful lot on your own ability to manage and question, as well as DIY.

East of Inverness us. Currently tiling. Heating went on last week. Looking forward to hearing your progress and helping if poss. Btw, the caravan will be redundant shortly.

Yes it looks great. Thanks for the link. From a quick flick through it has lots of good info. Not enough perhaps about clever detailing as the current question, or showing natural fading when it turns out scabby. Lots of photos of beautiful work, in its newly built state. Fully coloured, no weathering and no shrinkage or warping.

3/4 is very thick. Has to be a mag drill. It will take 5 minutes cutting. It is safer too as you are not pushing into the steel and risking losing balance. See if you can get a deal for half a day. Aim for half the listed hire price. Or get the rental of the bit thrown in.

The only own-brand or barely known names i would buy would be for a contractor who forgot to bring any bits, esp for concrete, but i get some to keep him on site. I won't be seeing them again, and don't care. A known top brand will be many times quicker and end up cheaper. Won't wear out the drill or arm either. No comment on Milwaukee so i look forward to a report, but the likes of Erbauer have been pretty good so far.

There is a formula. An assumption is made for a domestic digester, for the balance of poo, wee and water. Out of balance creates inefficiency. From experience, for a sports hall there is barely any toilet use, but lots of theoretical showers. They are barely used but could be. Meanwhile the next door classroom block has toilets but no showers or other plain water. Each on their own need bigger units or they don't work properly. We combined them and it works fine. Bleach kills the bacteria and I guess dishwashers are bad for that. (Did you know that airports have exceptional poo content in the morning? Needs high stall proportion in the mens' toilets.) I don't think anyone has mentioned the chicane of pipes and wiers between sections, to allow only the grey, and clearing, liquid through.

Ie only when fire is close and hot enough to start the expansion. If the gap is already closed, the fire is less likely to go that route.

There is often the remains of a fence within a hedge. Or look at the ends for signs of previous connections

As etc shows, there is no intumescent material stated in this indicative list. It is only required in circumstances where a gap is required (round a door or to close a gap, usually ventilation) or for paint. It is easy to spec intumescent, and there is a bit more certainty that the cavity will be closed. But the priority in fire protection is stopping spread, and a fully closed cavity is better at that, when appropriate.

Yes you wonder how rude you dare to be. I bet you wish this hedge had died mysteriously last year. There has to be another way that it would be ridiculous to argue against. I don't think there is any 'closed shop' so try the competition. Just a phone call, and nothing to lose.

Great pic. Have you checked the height rules? I'm not saying this attachment is correct but I found it quickly.