saveasteading

1:60 is fine. Just make sure it goes in to that all the way and doesn't have flatter areas. As the table shows, flatter is ok for heavier flow which you will probably have occasionally. 110mm will flow better than 150mm because the flow is more concentrated/deeper.

Agreed technically, but i think there will be multiple bruises on thighs from these corners.

There are multiple interfaces in construction where the responsibility is blurred. The window manufacturer doesn't measure opening sizes, check the suitability of the structure, or tell you how to fix the frames. If the glass breaks next year through stresses, who's issue is it....yours. You can, if prepared to pay for the service and them taking the risk, get a supply and fit service. They tend to use one or 2 systems and have their methods of fixing. They also make their own assessment of tolerances around the window. Missing out middle men means you take on more risk and management. 10mm wriggle room. Yes about that although one guy told me he allowed 20mm on upstairs windows because nobody can see it! I didnt use him. Make sure this 10mm is outside the rectangle that the window will be, as openings may not be 'square'.

In kent this has no value unless you keep it on site. It would be taken away to a quarry or random yard, and you get nothing for it but do pay the haulage. It is then crushed and sold, at commercial rates, perhaps back to you. Some operators have strict control and even grade it as type 1. Etc. But some is delivered with junk mixed in. Wood, plastic, soil. I have had toilet seat, snooker ball, multiple springs (?). Once rejected 2 loads and had no argument, but still had the junk on site. Also once did a spot visit and found 2 piles being fed into the crusher...one of rubble and one of earth. Hence...crush on site. To be fair, one well known supplier allowed me to visit, and has a clean pile of rubble, they send away any loads they don't like, and they grade it by size after crushing. They pay nothing for hardcore received. And that crusher tool on the end of the digger is fun.

Ok something i know about. The asbestos cement has to be removed and disposed of with a certificate. You can diy this but i suggest you don't, as a demo company will be very efficient. Shouldnt say demo, as it is dismantling. Then the frames. There is a market for concrete frames. They are cut off at ground level so gradually get smaller, farm by farm. Allow for them getting taken apart for zero. But if you will need hardcore then the best plan is to crush on site as in the video above. The machine looks like a dinosaur. Just insist that it is crushed again to ensure usefully small pieces. The demo people will take the tangled steel away. It is such a spaghetti mess that there is more air than steel. In summary, a demo company to do the whole job. One price to take away and another to keep the hardcore. The foundations are still there. Either the groundworker takes them out or you try to integrate them.

Single size gravel will not bind. The sizes quoted are what has gone through a sieve of that size. Some could be much bigger in one direction. So you have to see samples. The 3 mm is almost sand. This will be stronger but a bit functional. For a footpath, 10mm is fine.

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No. But I spoke to many teachers 6 or 12 months later, and they all said that it was between good air quality and the best they had worked in. I expect that heads, bursers and PMs also visited our previous projects before awarding us their projects. On the other extreme, our preferred m&e contractor tokd me of new county schools jampacked with computerised ventilation kit. Windows and fans were linked to heating and heat recovery and sensors to a central system. They had been called in because it wasn't working. The janitor explained that the best device was the red button in the plant room, which turned it all to manual. In hindsight a meter would have been interesting, used surrepticiusly. But our noses are fairly accurately programmed.

NO. These are holding down bolts, not holding up. It isn't a bad idea to build on the bolts as a temporary measure, but it has to be grouted up. Even 24mm bolts are liable to bend under vertical and rotational loading. And the column isn't just sitting on bolts, but on the threads of 4 nuts. It could work but needs detailed calculation.

You should be able to tap the screws into the wood to get started, so no skin stripping required.

Ours is being installed by the electrician, but it seems to be so standard now that it isn't expensive. From memory about £50 plus the fitting.

If there was an emoji for ' silly me' I would use it now. Yes of course.

It's compulsory in Scottish regs. That's not the way I've seen it promoted for 15 years, but I think you are right.

OK. If by chance the ph3 clicks in to the head and stays there, no problem. More likely you are going to have to support it until it starts to cut. Steel workers have very hard skin from holding the thread while it turns. You might need to find another way....something to hold the screw ( a ring spanner?), or a dab of glue on the head. Or you could make a pilot hole or indent to engage the point.

I have experimented with ventilation, with client consent. School classrooms are said to need ventilation at a dustbin quantity per second, or kids sleep. I think any school built to that soon has it turned down or off. I've designed and built about 30 classrooms in 5 schools. All have windows, some have high ceilings, none have any forced ventilation. No problems reported or noticed in my return visits. That sounds risky but they were designed to allow retrofit at the same cost, if necessary. So I am bemused at the specified quantity of forced ventilation. Why do mine work? I can only suggest high ceilings, and multiple door opening allows enough air movement. Then they are empty for 18 hours. Hence I suspect over-design is general. Likewise sports halls. The worst I have experienced had complex and extensive ventilation systems, as designed by m and e consultants, and the hall stank. That musty smell is mostly a lack of oxygen i think. Our halls had fans at one end and louvres at the other, but mostly self ventilate because of wind suction and pressure differences at 30m distance. Fans used when necessary but that is seldom. Done 25 of them so it isn't luck. (BTW that means 25 schools have saved £50,000 or more each for books and pencils) Again i think that the industry that designs and makes the stuff are overspecifying. Does this logic apply to new houses? I think so, and will soon find out.

We have chosen not to fit mvhr as the cost would have been about £10k. If the building is as efficient to heat as planned, then we think that cost would never be recovered. We have some areas of high ceiling, which helps air quality a lot. We think that everyday movement will shift enough air for health and comfort. But we will find out!

Any normal hand drill will do it. Having variable speeds will help find the optimum. It is entirely rotary so sds is wrong and the machine unnecessarily heavy. Goggles. What head type?

By not running a motor, and not expending energy on the manufacture of the plant and pipes. A large proportion of the population can't understand radiator valves, and turn them on full then open windows. No chance of understanding MHVR. I didn't understand it til recently. Some systems clearly had short circuits in them, and reps couldn't explain how they worked in principle. I get it now, but note that many rooms will be ventilated (and lose heat) whether needed or not. In the SteamyTea setup it will be understood and made to work. As for payback time in cash and carbon, I am not convinced.

You soon will though, in other buildings, because you will have become a wall nerd.

Trickle vents, opening windows. All a bit low tech but easy. There are various conduits too. Fan outlets in kitchen and wcs, grilles near fires, wbs flue provides stack ventilation.

But if it rains, the surface could be ruined. A temporary and wateright infill is a high cost solution for 8 hours use. A robust tarpaulin, fixed tight at the top, is probably the optimum.

Airtight first, then ventilation. That allows control rather than random draughts.

If you know where the toilet fittings are going exactly, then you can board inset between studs to get solid fixings. That needs only offcuts ov osb or any timber. Kitchen doesn't need strengthening but you can do the same at wall cuboard hangers for security. Elsewhere doesn't need it. For acoustics, in normal domestic situations it is normal to just put insulation in between rooms where you think a bit of quiet is preferable. Up to you to improve it if you want, but not osb. There you are. No osb required, or a few offcuts.

Good point but how to do so and keep the link for interested parties?

If you want to go round tapping on them, then maybe. For that though, plasterboard is cheaper as you say, but also denser for acoustics. Remember that acoustics is density, from plasterboard; absorption from insulation; and isolation from double stud or resilient bar; plus careful jointing at the perimeter. After which noise still goes through the floor and ceiling.