saveasteading

As long as you know it is low risk asbestos, you simply need to refer to the HSE helpful documents. Copy and attach if you want. If you feel that the planners are suckers for thick documents then do a precis of it too, adding project specific detail. Then do it by the book. What material is it?

And you finished how?

It will be very hot indeed even up here....a lot of heat escapes from the fire and the insulated flue keeps it moving intead of escaping from a bare metal flue into the room. Of course the flue, being insulated, is protecting the surroundings, but adding 50mm more protection is simply sensible. It also allows some movement on heating and cooling.

And as someone else on here pointed out , the best way to find it is not using the BH search but googling eg "buildhub foundations support" or the appropriate query.

The tidy solution would be a new inspection chamber. This would be below ground with a cover. Just downstream of the rainwater which can have its own entry.

Easy to find. Google Highways, sightlines. 1 page attached. The principle is that you are sitting in your car, so you are low down and back from the road. How far can you see each way? It depends on the road speed, but you could make a special case if the road could not be driven at that speed.

That looks pretty good to me. I like drain runs to be simple and to get out of the building ASAP All I would change, if possible, is right angled bends indoors. Either take these at about 45° and then have a 45° junction, or use a slow bend or 45° then short straight then 45°. Then they won't block, but if they do, they are roddable The downside is the multiple pipes through the outer wall/ footing but it just the once.

I went back to your first post. You gave the architect a budget. Tenders came back over double. Thd architect obv has no idea of costs or perhaps doesn't care. You would be entitled to dismiss without pay if your budget was fundamental and you can prove it. Change architect? I once had a project where we were recommended to resolve such an issue. Project twice the budget. I told the architect that i had an alternative solution but there was risk and the budget was not feasible. The architect said to me privately not to worry as clients always find more money. Appalling. I withdrew. Beware. Wise to stop and think for a while.

I haven't been following this so excuse errors. Just in case you don't know, bison type slabs come with a big curve up to the middle. The longer they span, the higher the curve. They don't tell you, and architects mostly don't know of allow for it. Either the screed needs to be thinner there, and strength of slab reduces, or all the levels go up as does the screed volume. This doesn't apply with beam and block which are straight. Dry rot isn't dry * and depends on wet conditions. Spores are everywhere anyway. As long as your timber is dry, it won't rot. * silly name. It isn't as wet as wet rot.

I wrongly thought they all went back, it seems. Remind me why this matters. Do you plan to remove the hedge?

I was nervous on occasions i challenged that proposals for monitoring were unreasonable, and even self-interested. (Didnt use those words).It always turned out ok though as long as we were reasonable...esp not rude. I think my secret was to not blame, but point out something that allowed them to agree and back down. Site specific, so I can't really suggest what yours might be. Problem...solution. Newts under stones or in hedges...clear only in the pond season Grass....confirm has been mown for x years. Workers wandering too far into nature...strict site rules and fence. Polluting pond ? Etc. Sometimes though you just have to accept it and limit the problem and cost.

Have you reminded them that all newts are in ponds at a definite time of the year? So there is zero risk to newts in that window. Sometimes these consultants aren't the most practical people. Your planner can be subtle." Remind me, is it the case that newts migrate to ponds....etc."

Assuming that the survey says "nothing to be expected here". Not copied by them to the planners but to you. Otherwise don't submit it and try again. I still think that the planners must have reasonable grounds to request the survey. In so doing they should explain why.

I agree. Have you looked at other recent applications near you? They will all be online. If nobody else has this condition then neither should you, unless they have specific requirements, whuch clearly they haven't. If they have, then you will see the details. Then you write to say ...whatever. Come back to us when you have done this research on the planning portal.

I've had about 4 projects where they attended site and looked in the holes we dug for foundations. It slowed the job a few days. On one we killed the need for the above. , and on 2 they wanted special trenches, but the jobs didn't go ahead If there is nothing specific in the condition, and nothing in the Local Plan, then it is likely you only need a desk top study to say that nothing is likely to be of interest. FYI. On one project there were loads of roman pot fragments but they weren't interested in them On another they were looking for signs of a Roman road. Usually they only want to see any signs of hedges and ditches to complete their maps of fields and roads. Beware of them writing a report that says that you should employ themselves throughout the project. So talk to them first and engage the one you can trust: you are paying.

I happened to see part of one of those daytime TV shows about renovating. Bought at auction for 145k. Coat of paint and update and sell for 220k. "I'm definitely moving straight on to my next project." If I was with HMRC it would be a fruitful programme to watch.

Interesting when filling out an application to insure the next project. If a self build burns down, do the insurance company make you self build the replacement?

Good marketing, making it sound new and efficient, and natural. This principle has been around for decades. Lindab make, or made, a version of it. I think it could be useful in providing hot water radiators in big open spaces. The rads could be at work stations. In a corridor it will warm peoples' heads up where the heat is gathering, and the air temperature can remain cooler, and save energy. Not in hospital corridors though if full of waiting patients. In a domestic scenario it isn't so obvious if this is efficient. Logically it shouldn't be expensive....but i think it is. I tried. Getting a quote was very difficult...."send us your detailed design for our system and then we can quote"... My answer...No.

There is a design principle that we first design for draught proofing, and then ventilate as necessary. That is for energy efficiency. Control. The pir is taped to stop draughts or other air circulation. Ventilation of rooms is then controlled by windows, vents or fans. The vapour control is about protecting the timber structure from damp and rot, and so is a separate issue. The membrane allows humid air to vent out, but is waterproof against rain coming in. Thus the structure inside the vcl is always dry, while outside it the dampness gets through but is stopped and the ventilation lets it dry again. If you get an offcut of vcl, play with it. Fold into a cup shape to see if it holds water (it does). Then blow or suck air through it. Even when you know this, it helps to demonstrate it. It also avoids any thought of using leftovers as filter membrane, or vice versa.

Tie it down or have a mug of them next to the diary. I miss the screwfix pencils. A glut of them meant there was always one around, and nobody had to borrow yours.

So many questions. Yes it is complex. If an existing building has no dampness then you can leave it alone. If you are stripping tiles from the roof then fit a vcl before retiling. The cost is low and it can do no harm. Old roofs in england usually have nothing under thr tiles. You get wind and driven snow in the attic and so insulate the ceilng. What little wster comes u der the tiles dries out again...usually. More modern roofs have felt. The same applies except the ventlation is only around the tiles. In scotland (and posher houses in E&W) roofs have sarking. 4 inch boards with gaps between, so it ventilates. Since breathable membranes were invented all reroofs benefit from them, whether new of retrofit. Osb sarking doesnt have many gaps so needs a space under it to allow ore ventilation. The traditional gaps are also left between sarking boards but they also now get a space beneath, because why not? Summary. Yes roofs should breathe.

Nothing illegal about it. These are ok for a garage or gaden shed. Surprising though that these have been suggested. Even if they achieved 1.6, you would lose a lot of heat and they would be a bad idea.

Great. When there is nothing to record, still say something. Could be, 'nobody on site today as prev agreed'. Otherwise you forget if you forgot. Get workers full names, just the once. Thereafter it can be whatever they are called. Digger, sparks, trowel, leaky. My diaries were filled with things like ' joiner + 2' if it was the usual gang. This book doubles as your safety and incident record. Cut fingers, the lot. Nice pen ready for the first entry? Actually wouldn't it be nice to record your feelings and ambitions before it starts. .

Recommended tanking product? Adhesive has to stick to it.

Normal plywoood? Waterproof? I guess any will stand a bit of damp whereas chipboard acts as a sponge. Not that i've ever worried about it before, but on the off chance that the floor gets soaked or a joint leaks. That makes sense about the ply moulding to undulations. I have used hardboard, but if you say ply, then ply. £8/m2 is good news too. Have you tried ditra or similar matting? Anything you dislike apart from the price? Good point about the chipboard screws. One chance. A hands and knees qc session is required.