saveasteading

I am wondering if that array is only suitable for what is already officially potable water? ie improves the taste and takes out lime? The burn water might, of course, be even cleaner with regards to minerals. But peat / other organics? I think that perhaps needs a coarse filter and UV zapper as well.

Fundamental is that only the green bit near the front of each document constitutes 'the regulations'. The rest is guidance. Therefore any references in the manufacturer's literature is better than any vague guidance/ best practice. The BCO is generally a decent type, who wants your building to be safe. If there is a nice certificate to close their file then that gives them cover in the case of a problem. I have met a few who think they know better than the book, but eventually sorted them out.

I think the filtration system will be rather specialist and expensive. But perhaps install it in a hut and leave it as the permanent system. We are doing that, with a 3m3 water tank in a shed (all made from reclaimed rafters) so that we can store whatever dribbles reach and have some storage to get through any droughts, or in extremis it is worth getting a tanker in. Otherwise I would think you just fill the tank with a fairly primitive pump, as and when. OR you make a catchment upstream, with a pipe off it to your tank. The catchment can allow the junk to fly past and the sediment to settle, but ensure you are getting moving, fresh water. Then put an overflow at the top of the tank, back to the burn.

Our steading and the adjacent house get all the water via a well , then about 500m of pipe and a burn to cross. so crossing the burn isn't an issue. And for electrics you can feed it through a scaffold tube to cross the burn. If you do the old test of walking up the burn to check for dead sheep, or possible drains , that will tell you the suitability for washing/flushing/even drinking. Also google earth to save a very long walk. Our project has IBC water for the works, coming from the spring. You could either have an intake upstream or pump the burn water when needed. But encase the IBC to keep light out and perhaps insulate too. We drink it but from the pipe not from the IBC. For drinking, if you are concerned at quality, you could get it tested. Or buy one of these filters that turns swamp water to drinking water. I think this is still cheaper than buying bottled. Better yet is find a neighbour or town tap to fill up.

I don't really understand the question. The planners expect you to do what you have shown in the application. BCO wants to see the new building built properly. If you think it is sensitive, don't put it on here as it is public, but PM to me, Gus or whoever.

Some has been displaced by big feet or boxes moving.A lot of it does seem to have shrunk though. Perhaps quality? There is no tape. I am going to give it an overhaul. Any suggestions on quality and even source for the foam stuff (the pipes are too close for anything else)

Our plumbing contractor used rockwool pipe enclosure more than the foam stuff. You tend to see it in plant rooms and long hidden runs. I don't think it is theoretically better than the foam stuff, but in reality it seems to work better. Also I think it doesn't shrink or fall off like the stuff in my attic does. We are using Plumbing and Renewables too. Not at the stage of fitting the heat pumps yet, but happy so far.

Agreed. I've met people who made it. No further comment.

If I knew then I would tell you. I've had to do this on many occasions when taking a project in new area, and have had more problems with new contractors than clear successes. There isn't a best way other than talking and searching. Be very cheeky and approach builders on sites, preferably as they have a break in the van. Look at vans and get the contact details. The best people are busy already. The main contractors are not going to tell you , and perhaps lose their best subbies. The merchants will perhaps tell you their clients.....but at least that will be a start. The business cards on merchants' notice boards may not be the ones you want, but try. On social media I would ask for recommendations in my own area. I use a free 'parish based' site called 'Nextdoor'. Join that and extend your area to neighbouring parishes, and ask for recommendations of trades. Of course you will get mates and family suggestions, but possibly some happy customers. You will also find out about all lost animals, road diversions and items for sale, and pot-holes, and rants from people who know nothing. But you are likely to get some decent recommendations.

For estate agents measuring rooms, any one at all is accurate enough. For a builder, sometimes aiming for a precise point before cutting, get a better one. Leica is fine. For Engineering, perhaps outdoors in daylight, you might need a precisely aimed one with a bright laser on it. Serious money....I prefer a tape, and a brick to hold the other end tho not so handy across aerial spaces or vertically.

Not many of them are proper professionals these days, esp in local papers and even more so online stuff. Easy to hand over a ready made story. The Mail one has been filched from the other articles I think. In the Scotsman the council appear to be robust. Planning enforcement is usually half a person these days, and they are reluctant. But the councillors will likely insist.

which is the whole point of course. I agree not publicising now you have a plan anyway. All these discussions are searchable and public.

The curtain is probably the best solution, the heavier the better, and touching the sides and floor.

Not just me then. They haven't thought of putting them on the back. I did a lot of work for timber companies, and noticed that they were supplying the identical productsto all the diy's and some merchants, just changing the labels.

SteamyTea, o great guru: can you similarly advise how I easily reduce normal photos when I have taken them at say 5Mb ? Can only then post one at a time. ie just a few clicks and not having to make and save otherwise unnecessary copies.

Agreed. make sure to get the white if that is what you want. The pot is quite small, but fine for your needs. Everbuild is owned by Sika, so it is a big-time company now. For fixing to a curved wall, I found that Gripfill was sticky enough without nails, where others were not grabby enough. Have you had any problems getting sticky labels off the mdf without taking the primer with it?

You get a huge amount of light through skylights. so you wont need a lot of area. There are plenty of fixed units available. you might want 2 x small ones to spread the light.

It depends whether you want to improve the performance of the building or just to get a better number. The computer programme for it is complex but was faulty the last time i played with it. An expert will know where slight changes can make the most benefit (real or theoretically). A lot of it is through ticks in the right boxes, which are not always easy to understand, or even logical. The programme is licensed so you will have to pay someone to do the analysis. Also it is clear that some analysts are more thorough than others (from seeing obviously poor buildings with decent ratings).

Some basics to remember, which some plumbers and groundworkers don't seem to check, or understand. Downhill is essential, and avoid droops by using supports. Corners are bad. Make them as few and as smooth as you can. Think through, the passage of the worst that might reasonably go along that pipe. Will it reach the end? It is assumed that 2 wc's will not be flushed at the same moment. If it does block, is it easy to clear using a snake or rod? Will the snake get round the corners? Once each section is built, test it. Not with water but a golf ball, A snooker ball is ok but runs too well. For small pipes use a marble or ball bearing. you can test each section and finally the whole of each length. No throwing allowed. Finally test with water. You can buy an air test kit. Alternatively bung the outlet end (£5 for a bung) and fill with water. Then rest easy. With all that thought through, you shouldn't ever have a blockage anyway. Specifically, why do you have 2 drains at kitchen to bathroom wall? can't you use just 1 ? Presumably all the 90 degree bends are shown indicatively, and will have smoother turns/junctions.

Of course it's simple. Scottish warrant fee is based on the construction cost estimate. Low cost, low fee. Surprising this wasn't picked up, because guide costs are published. Maybe just looked a lot of cash. And if now built bigger?

Not his money.

I don't think so Some other game going on.

I am constantly dubious then surprised how accurate they are. I have once seen a planner on site. Measuring is not their thing anyway. I twice in 300 projects, was questioned on the matter. Once was an erroneous gut feeling from a nature officer. Another was a neighbours' complaint which stopped the job for 6 weeks. Fortunately we were able to demonstrate / convince them. So only someone pointing these discrepancies out is likely to get it attended to.

Oak can affect founds up to 23m away. But you probably aren't on clay...I hope.