saveasteading

Should have added. Our groundworker found it easy but hadn't a clue. Testing for this before engaging a contractor is tricky. References aren't necessarily guarantees either...they were nice and the building hasn't fallen down or cracked (yet).

There are lots of good people out there. Also plenty who aren't so good and don't give the best service because of a skill shortage. It must be very diificult to judge as a first yimer, when not from the so called industry. Our family team were quite shocked when I said we must confront the SE to save £20k, and sack the groundworkers. The former had a perfectly reasonable principal who accepted my alternative, but our assigned guy was not happy to be questioned. The groundworker, whose main skill was charm, turned nasty, but went eventually, and the family carried on and finished it. Slab &drainage. But neither of these were possible to first timers, and I can see how problems and costs mount. Thats prob why most of us on here want to help. A few words can save a lot of money and pressure.

Roofing. I was taken with the kind that is painted on to a fg scrim, and becomes a 2mm, totally flexible surface without any joints. It comes in tins and is brushed on. Looked ideal for DIY and esp on flat roofs. But it doesn't appear to have been widely adopted. Whether it is flawed or has been squeezed out by the competition I don't know. Basic Electrics is easy enough, and few sparkies seem to really understand the more complex aspects anyway. But you do need an expert overview and sign-off.

Try a steel portal made of lightweight steel, rolled galvanised sections as the primary steel. @Gus Potteris a bit of an expert on them. I used the principle only once, and found that the saving in structure cost was equalled out by extra labour. But that was with a super steel erecting team. For DIY or just a builder that could change because it is all more manageable. If you need it to be heavily insulated then perhaps icf. If it needs solid walls then trad or icf. For cheapest use timber shed type, but won't last so long and not very high. For best value open space, with height: steel throughout.

Virtual hearts to all the above. Decide what is essential now, and do it full quality, once and for all. Decide what you don't need to function right now, and postone it. That could be empty rooms. You can leave boarding off, even flooring if you shut the door. That may leave some gaps where a temp solution will suffice. Eg a basic kitchen One bath / shower room These can be fitted out at a fraction of your likely budget. A toilet suite to basic standards is remarkably cheap. I think i saw £80 for wc and basin, with fittings. Buy cheap carpet and fit it temporaily. £60 will do a room. Remnants are not usually the best vslue when allowing for waste. If you miscut it, double sided tape sorts it. Throw out next year. That will not be ideal, but wins time and you have some comfort.

I once looked at a tender document where the client's architect had appointed 12 more consultants. One was 'hard landscaping' where they skilfully suggested tarmac, gravel and block paving. Bats, newrs etc if course. The main building design , the bit the architect did, was barely competent which is why it was double the budget. I'm thinking it would have cost 100k for fees pre tender.

100m2 of closely cut lawn Keep it cut. Depending on how stroppy you want to be, you might just find another consultant who will say all is OK. They exist. Their attitude is more that we do our best and let nature sort itself out. Planners will accept an alternative view. The trouble us when they come recommended by the council. Not dodgy, just too cosy.

I have strongly implied, when inheriting planning permission with reports already done, that it is not proper that a consultant deems that they supervise another survey and mitigation and the construction.... And here is our counter proposal. One council had a realistic policy that newts, if any, would all be in ponds between (can't remember) and so any site clearance must be then. Other councils just demand surveys and barriers and exporting thr newts.

You will learn a lot and get a certificate. Whether that makes you a skilled roofer is another matter. Not saying don't do it, but allow for learning more before and on the job. I assume you have some building skills already. Don't assume that you are saving £20k. Other jobs you can learn and do? Depends so much on your abilities, head for heights, stamina, boredom threshold, strength and endurance, coordination. I would say you cannot learn enough about bricklaying, heating, electrics so don't consider them. Yes painting and flooring. Allow for some errors. the university of Youtube will help. Groundworks, foundations, drainage? Some find it easy enough and some never will. Timber structure No, but inner studs and insulation etc maybe. Do though study every subject and do quality control, as the trades might not care as much as you do.

I don't know enough about your specifics, or the stage you are at, but I (in business) developed a process to avoid such expensive reports by others. If there was asbestos on the roof, then our proposal says that we know there is asbestos, and this is how it will be dealt with. We know there are newts, and this is how we will deal with them. We know there may be archaeology but our design won't disturb it because...etc. Eg, for newts we advised clients to keep grass short (you are allowed to mow them to sludge) and arranged that site would be stripped at the season when they are all in the water. No survey or catching newts required, All of it polite and considered. Otherwise some consultants rather take advantage.

I go for option 1. The rules are to retain habitats not to make money. So explain if the area is currently not suitable for gcn. So no loss. And that you have already made new ponds. And can you provide some additional land cover to their liking? And whatever else makes a sensible case. Eg that nothing significant has changed since the original approval. Make it easy for them with plans, photos etc.

It sounds undersigned for a 'proper' building, esp now you mention overhangs. It feels too flimsy to you so I suspect it is. A sketch or photo?

That is a bit skinny. What centres are they on? Is the cls spanning the 2m? If you hang off one, does it deflect a lot? You say a toilet block. Is this for private occasional use, or public?

OK. So either you use another wall opening to transfer the levels through, or you drill a hole through what will be the shared wall, and measure up and down again. Make sure the hole is horizontal.

Contraction joint. But yes, do this and allow latex as above. Latex, concrete, dpm, stone base, added up for your depth. Vinyl floor contractors will do levelling screed, then there is no-one else to blame for blips.

Do you mean ground floor (UK terminilogy)? A 1950s house floor won't be insulated , as you say. The extension does need to be insulated. Getting the finished level right starts with your excavation. As you have a doorway to measure through, this is reasonably straight foward but it is still easy to get wrong. I suggest that you use a spirit level to transfer* the existing floor level outside and mark it boldly on the outside wall. Use a nail and paint around it. This can be measured down from repeatedly as necessary. Doing this now can show up potential difficulties. Once you have decided on the construction you can, if you want, also mark dig level, hardcore level, top of insulation. So it is easy to get right, but not for everyone. * measure up, say 300mm from the floor and mark the door frame. Spirit level and mark on the outside of the frame. Measure down 300mm again and mark the wall.

It is a project notebook. Anything and everything can go in it. It doesn't need sentiments or sentences. Rain, 2 joiners til 4.00. Order nails tomorrow. Of course a younger person might prefer to use some electronic type thing.

Like a Persian carpet there should be a flaw, as only God creates perfection. Good job mortal.

They are mostly built into the walls I suspect.

Also keep a diary. An A4 page a day one. 1. Very interesting to look back on. 2. Keeps all notes and contacts to hand. 3. Conclusive evidence when your suppliers deny dates, agreements etc. 4 weather and conditions and who was on site until when. 5. In the unfortunate event of any problems you will have this as confirmation. 6. You will forget some problems that have been overcome. This will remind you how well you did. Start it now, summarising the verbal agreements with the architect.

Indeed. As a designer and contractor for decades, there was always the 'buyers' search for 5% off materials. Welcome of course. It is much more productive though to avoid waste. This can be in not throwing ends away, but mostly is in efficient design. Save 5% on the cost of 10m3 of concrete and that is £50. Buy 1m3 less through design and site control and that is £100. Have both. Can you do that throughout the whole project and save 15%? Yes but you need to contribute a lot of time and effort and have designers and contractors of similar mind. And 25% saving by DIY. In business we could usually save our clients 35% off the competitors' proposals, but that was mostly design changes but to the same standards. You have to know your subject backwards, so if anything allow 10% more for risk than assume savings.

If the steel face is in line with thd wall then probably better and much easier to screw into the masonry but project the timber over the steel, and glue to the steel. If there is the typical recess in the steel, you may be able to fix vertical timber studs or ply that will pack out to the wall face. They can be wedged or glued or screwed on with special steel screws, often called tek screws. Then fix studs to that.

Our best price was from the local, family BM. beat the online suppliers and the specialists. not by much but enough, and a superb delivery service. My experience of the big BMs was that they just piggy backed off the specialist suppliers, and it was better to go direct to them. btw you are doing the right thing by not mentioning trade names. Sheffield Insulations (now SIG) told me that if you say, for example, Celotex, then they are obliged to only quote for it, and not offer alternative brands.

Perhaps we will hear from you again when you get a quote for it. I went to a National Trust place today and saw their parking surfaces. On most they had gravel, which must be on a very good base. nearer the property gets most use and wear, and they had plastic grid, but was full of earth. Another extensive area was covered with plastic boards made for the purpose, and they had moved a lot and were trip hazards. So the moral is that the NT are still experimenting.

When I was designated mouser in a shared flat, I found that cooked bacon was the best bait. Once was walking out of the kitchen only 10 seconds after carefully setting the trap, when I heard the snap. Humane but gruesome, as opposed to poison, which I use in the attic. Live traps are only humane if you remember to release the mice promptly.