saveasteading

I would cut the dpm on the concrete line, after construction. Dampness will get into the concrete but dry again. Agree slab should be just inside the shed wall to allow dripping to ground. Dpc between timber and concrete is advisable but not essential as the concrete will breathe and dry.

It simply allows 25% reduction in area. Silly but fact. I expect this is why bcos overlook undersized drainage fields, as it looks OK to them. I doubt if they do. But the relevant difference would be a sealed pipe, to carry water, or one with open joints, to allow ingress/egress as well as to carry it. I suggest a fomal proposal is presented, with drawings and support for the arguments. The bco will send it to the EA and perhaps never get a response. I might include the argument re the composting toilet, although they could reasonably argue that it might go unused, by future owners if not you.

Thanks for acknowledging this But it was also the bottom 3 of the pyramid above. I don't think anyone is attacking you personally, but your statements, and it is useful always to see opposing arguments.

You didn't address this bit.

That may be plenty in practice, with permeable ground, but the formula requires much more. I think that bcos just accept that ig looks enough.

Ok first to bite. A distraction question. No, of course not. Does a well designed, properly used wbs cause pollution in the countryside? Yes. But it is a reasoned pragmatic option. The pollution is slight, much better than bonfires and open fires, and no worse than gas or electricity. ( reference pollution maps). I am starting to suspect that the anti wbs arguments are being encouraged by ' big oil' and Tufton St. Hence the easy articles for lazy 'journalists' quoting high pollution in london, blaming wbs as a distraction to the real issues of cars, loe emission zones, lack of home insulation and other 'liberties'. Btw, your comments on the video are not convincing unless you know he isn't a scientist, know he is a nob, and think that being from 'up north' is relevant. If anything you are turning me more to his arguments than yours. Do you have connections to declare to big oil or the libertarian wing?

It is feasible that the layout drawing was included with the opp. The reasons for not asking for full pp woukd be to avoid surveys and reports, and allows for variations to be made in the final app. You can't rely on most agents for the full story, but must ask, and see the full conditions. I was present at a council meeting when a similar situation arose. The plot had opp. But also had a building design. Some councillors wanted to object but were told that they could only vote on the basis of the new information, ie conditions and details.

That was some time ago. There are still standards though and perhaps these steels have slipped through. There was a while that Mexican steel was coming in and not meeting standards, but still being sold. Strength though, not bits in it. Having seen a steel mill in action, I'd be surprised if there are lumps in it. Something you do properly or not at all I would think.

This is not expensive but is not suitable for all species.

I don't think steel has hard bits in it except where heated or hammered. It could be affected by the drilling as markc says. Perhaps use a small pilot hole and then a conical cutter / step drill to get to size.

they say they saw bats entering the roof space in the 30 mins I wasn’t there. That is difficult to argue with. Though I did dispute with our SE that he had tested ground strength using a 2m long steel rod he had somehow found and lost on the 2 mins nobody was with him. Grrr. But then I had other evidence. Looks to me that you should put up the post and boxes. He should, in his report have told you what heights and box types. If not, ask. If you don't have a tree, do neighbours? The bats won't mind.

That would do me,( and certainly good enough for a planner, as long as common sense is applied. I have seen loads of reports that basically say....continue to employ me to monitor this. I have overturned a few (environmental and archaeology) by pointing this out to planners and proposing alternative solutions.

I walked round a site with an ecologist. He didn't climb any trees, but looked on the ground, and listened at night. I had chosen him after rejecting many others over the years. Not only ecology, but archaeology, transport, whatever. Some have the qualifications but may be in the wrong job, or don't have common sense or an understanding of cost. Phone about for another. Sack your ecologist, and save the fee, or put up the pole and say to the planners that you don't have bats but this is just in case.

This is the important issue. If there were no bats then there should be no reason to build a temporary housing. An expert batman knows there are no bats and never are any bats. This doesn't sound like an expert OR it is a chance to double the fee. It occurs to me that I put the boxes up using a scissor lift, because one was handy. so i think it was more like 4m up, and any less was not allowed.

probably all you need.

The reason for a tree being necessary is probably shade and stability. Each species will have different particulars for height off the ground and how it is affected by the sun...warmed or shaded. I don't imagine they would stay long in a box that swayed in the wind. I can't remember the particulars, but do remember nailing 3 boxes onto trees at about 3m up, and facing a certain way. So do check the height requirement first. I can't see any reason why any chunky timber wouldn't do the job. But an old TP or tree trunk prior to processing should be cheapest. Where do BT offload them? As to the boxes, they are about £40 each or make your own from a scaffold board (instructions are online).

A good point. There are some risks that the client will never accept. Days lost through weather has to be down to the contractor too, if there is no work possible. did that work in reverse too?

How about finding a similar flooring product, perhaps a bargain remnant, and running it the other direction, ie as if you had always meant it? Or use ceramic tiles. That may look eccentric, but at least deliberate.

The 'likes' are gratifying, and makes the thought and writing of it feel worthwhile. I have also thought to save it, and can just paste it the next time someone asks about the quotation process. It is probably my main USP, (linking engineering, construction and finance) so do ask if there are any questions. I'd like to know what the op thinks. 'Trimming the fat' struck a nerve. In contracting, esp on large projects, there is a huge risk, and the possibility of losing money to the extent of your sanity and home. Also, estimating is a particular skill and requires a thick skinned mindset. Most builders don't have it, and why should they?

I have reread and have in my mind that you are creating valleys. They would need valley gutters, otherwise where does the water go? What do the existing roofs have for drainage?

I've done metal curves. I don't understand your situation though, so sketches or drawings please.

I would have to check. From memory then. Over a metre distant and you have to protect the inside wall face, and the building mustn't collapse in fire towards the neighbour. I would argue that plasterboard inside thd boundary wall would suffice. But bcos will have very different opinions from do nothing to protect all the timber. Therefore you should ask, or be prepared to do more or argue ( I should say debate).

I have found that 'no nonsense' and other budget names can be good value but can be inferior. Also a product can change, presumably by commissioning a different supplier. For anything important i now use a known brand, with a spec sheet.

Small detached buildings 1. A detached single storey building, having a floor area which does not exceed 30m2, which contains no sleeping accommodation and is a building— (a)no point of which is less than one metre from the boundary of its curtilage; or (b)which is constructed substantially of non-combustible material. Part L (energy) May apply, Part P (electrical) apples, other parts exempt. as you are over 1m it seems to be ok if under 30m2. The definition is floor area, so inside the external walls. guessing 40 mm for cladding, and 80mm stud and sole plate, so 120mm. That is worth about 2.5 m2.

ok that's clear, but who are the suppliers of that garage pictured.