saveasteading

That is also worth considering. A straight coupler then a length of pipe sticking up a metre or so, which flags the pipe. Concrete pumping is a very arduous job, fighting a pipe that is very heavy and pumping. The guy on that isn't looking for your pipe, so make it obvious. Then later the helicopter come dodgem, banging into edges and anything else. All this still inside the wooden box. Try to get them in exactly the right position so they are not clashing with walls (mm count), and completely vertical as the concrete is encasing through for ever. You can tie them to the reinforcement and to your top boxing. This all protects the end of the pipe for easy connection later. A big pour is exciting as well as stressful. Be there, but stand back. Oh....where is the washout water going? They have to clean the pump pipes and it is messy.

For my greenhouse I used first a geomembrane, then 100mm hardcore and blinding which has to be exactly level. Then another layer of membrane, then the grids.* For fixings I replaced the grids with paving slabs at the corners and half the long length and screwed into them. * actually I used a vapour control layer to allow water to escape downwards (greenhouse spills) but keep dampness below. A bit "off the wall" but seems to work. It has been 5 years now. The grids have moved a bit, perhaps 5mm here and there. Winter storms haven't budged it, but I put the hanging baskets in there for winter as hanging dead weight. I would recommend gutters to limit the water splashing down the sides.

No. The thickness and strengths vary dramatically. But for a shed base.? No they should all be ok. Note that smaller grids usually result in less waste. 60mm hardcore is stingy. You wont fall through, but it might move after construction. Have you decided how to hold the shed in place?

We got no response from the fire service. The warrant was granted anyway. We assume the bco decided our proposal was good. A 10,000 litre tank. I did an extensive proposal on water, access and turning. Now we have to relocate the tank for practical reasons and it is being sent to sfrs again. I expect silence again. There doesn't appear to be any definitive requirement of 10,000 litres but it has been mentioned as being enough. A modern building or refurb is low fire risk. A fire engine carries 1,800 litres, on the basis that this deals with most fires, so 10,000 is a lot.

Let's go back a step. What depth is available for your floor and what surface is there now?

Ahhh yes. Clearly. So back to the question. The builder wants to power float without hindrance, but doesn't care that you would have to break out the floor to find the pipes. With that fort knox floor there is no way you should break it out. So protect the pipes against impact. Assume the worst,that they WILL bash hard with a power float. Best to box with timber...as it will only be about 50mm above the mesh you can use 4x 2 or similar. You don't want concrete in the pipes so close the tops. Stuff in sponge then cover with plastic bag. The concretor doesn't seem experienced or this would be normal. Therefore stay present throughout . NB power floating is once when the concrete is stiffening, then again hours later if a hardening polish is required.

Half the price and half the performance.

In my opinion this will look like an industrial floor and you will cover it. There are sprinkle products to brighten it up but make sure you see a real life example. Expensive. I'm not familiar with the @Adsibob product so can't comment except that it is a double job, whereas polished concrete is just the concrete slab.

The perimeter to area principle has been dropped from marketing so they can sell more insulation. At about 25 x 25 you don't technically need any insulation in the floor, tho it is still sensible. I would be tempted to use 200 round the perimeter (5m wide ish ) and 100 in the middle. Plus good detailing at the outside edge. I would have to think how to present this though. I was very impressed with our liquid screed. 4 hours and done.

SE will be right that it is needed but not necessarily in that way. At some stage it is cheaper to use bars and a steel fixer. SE for theory and calculations, contractor for cost knowledge. What span is the floor between support walls? Is there any reason ( such as span) why you can't use beam and block?

Yes, for marketing reasons some slates are called Hastings , Ascot etc, but come from Spain or Portugal. Others from the same source have Iberian names Lots of different quality levels which are noticeable up close. Second hand Scottish slates are unwanted when selling and £3 each if buying.

So vary it for your own circumstances. The mesh makes the box easy to fix in place In the majority of cases when I've had this done, the slab has been 175 thick, with mesh. Mesh can be cut....more about that if you want. 4 layers of mesh. I'd love to hear why.

Also tiles that look like multiple slates. I saw them at the bm and they looked good. Because they are big, there is much less overlap. Apparently the planners are happy with them even if the drawing says slate (but check). NB some are coloured grey, so check how long this lasts. I recommend a trip to a roofing merchant ASAP to see the options. In rising cost order? I welcome disagreement. Screwed profiled metal Membrane Tile Standing seam metal Man made 'slate' Slate But make sure the roof is designed for tile or slate weights.

My preference is to box around the pipe by about 100mm. It needs to be spiked down, or tied to by wires, or filled with sand to stop it moving when kicked or knocked by a float. The concrete is simply placed around the box to remove the fear of bashing or filling the pipe. When the concrete is hard you can leave the box in place or remove it. If being left open for a while, fill with sand to avoid a trip hazard. Then when the time comes for drainage connections, the pipe is undamaged and there is tolerance for the plumber to adjust it. Then a shovelful of concrete fills the gap. In theory the box out can be eps or pir, but it moves and floats. It takes time to make the boxes but it can be repaid many times over.

So yes. You could prob make a reusable shutter, then do one at a time. 80mm is enough to make as concrete rather than screed. You could make a stiff, dryish mix with some fibres and it will allow you to move swiftly on to the next step down.

Do you mean that the top or bottom are not set to suit the floor levels? Both wrong? Due to this change of plan re ground floor insulation?

I got a 50mm one a long time ago that twisted 90° in 6m. There was even worse at the bm and the yard man complained we were leaving the rubbish bits behind which nobody would want. His logic was that every delivery is to include some rubbish.

It is worth writing your strategy with references to the suds hierarchy. Makes it easy for the bco, or planners, to accept without passing on to another party. Bottom line....no more water running off site than always has, perhaps less. And spreading it out and delaying it as you propose may even reduce problems downhill. A French drain parallel to the slope is a cheap and easy soakaway, and often the best.

Good job it isn't in someone else's garden. They should have asked more questions so I'm sure will change it.

Did you become good at screwing on plasterboard ? Someone was saying how difficult that was proving. To be fair to metal, I only ever tried it in asking for a shot from a subcontractor, who probably wasn't helping. Good point. I have never thought to check if there are standards on straightness. The recent stuff we had has been immaculate. Perhaps the absence of Russian timber is helping. A timber merchant client told me of 'surprises hidden in the middle of bundles.

If you told them not to put it there, then now remind them and get it sorted. If you didn't, then ask nicely and they will get it sorted.

No it isn't. I see what you mean as It comes straight from a catalogue according to number of bedrooms. But then there are gradients, pipe sizes and where the final effluent goes. I've met loads of groundworkers who can't get that right. Diy or engage someone is client's choice.

@dpmiller . I'm glad you asked the question, and would be interested to hear who you ( or anyone else) thought would do drainage schemes.

At least 75mm but that us usually ok. Keep looking for the dpc.

I have done swales with a simple pipe as an overflow. As it is at the top it always has the limited head so it is predictable and calculable. It worked fine. Of course where the water goes next can be important. The point about leaves and blockage is a good one. You could use chicken wire and regular maintenance, or get as complex (weirs and baffles) as necessary. A swale works better than crates as there is evaporation as well as (not in your granite) the soakaway function.