saveasteading

And raw timber is something anyone can get at much the same price as the manufacturers. By default there is markup at the factory. And then get some more quickly if necessary. Our stick build materials were from the local bm. Ordered as a schedule for delivery over a few weeks. Paid by credit card per delivery. Nobody was at risk. Bm lost a few% in commission but had immediate payment and no risk.

stopping up the flue will create the next ledge for water to reach then spread. perhaps needs a vent. Having said that, i have a chimney that i have stuffed with rockwool in a plastic bag. it stops most of the heat loss, but I'm sure still allows some air past. About once a year it gets wet from heavy vertical rain and dribbles onto the hearth for a few days. Low tech but working. previously there was damp which simply required all flashings to be changed whether hey looked sound or not. That worked so what it tells me is that my inspections of lead and flaunchings were not spotting the one or 2 points of entr. Good luck.

I can see that being complex. the contract could say it, but their lenders, or other creditors might argue the case. i had a long standing relationship with a very big building manufacturer. Their bank gave us a letter every time, saying that they would repay all moneys in full if the building materials were not delivered for any reason, upon first request from us. The further we paid in advance, the more discount we got. But you needed the cash.. it generated more than any interest might. So that covered, bankruptcy, civil unrest, loss at sea, theft or substitution. Obviously our supplier was paying for this in some way. It can be done, but I guess the relationships between suppliers and banks are not always that comfortable.

it should be clear on the decision notice. you should also be able to see the officer's report. if it was delegated powers then they will be the same. but if the committee decided, then there may be some additional argument, other than these public documents I doubt you will get access.

Jdp sell 150m rolls, therefore so will any specialist bm. It is in your interest anyway as fewer joints means fewer leak risks. I would put valves on each end for ease of maintenance. The sprinkler ones tied off and marked "open." You will have some nice 40m coils left. That would allow you a permament feed from rainwater barrels to your pond. That is better for the pond, and better for the world. Be sure to put water mains marker tape in your trenches when backfilling.

Confession time. I don't trust my memory, and always read what it says on the cement bag. Just don't add a bit more cement for luck.. or water for convenience. You shouldn't need building sand, as the febmix will make it workable..

Yes that's fine. Don't be tempted to use too much cement. Also keep it fairly dry mix, but pre-wet the surface. All of that will keep it strong and limit cracking. If you've got time to get it in, some fibre additive would make it even stronger.

My only worry would be screws hitting them at dome stand in their lives. So C seems safest. Ì

plasterboard works so well, because it isn't only a physical barrier. When it gets super heated, the chemistry changes and the bonded water is driven out, especially at all the edges, then turns to steam, taking energy out of the fire. we have all thrown a bit on the fire to see what happens, haven't we. ? not a lot happens. If I recall it only confirms that you bought x litres of their paint. A painter once told me proudly he had managed to only use half the paint we had supplied, albeit with strict instructions.

Don't paint where it doesn't need it. If you're being told to paint where the beams are already going to be protected then I worry how (if) they have calculated it. It's thick and gooey. So needs a hefty brush, like a wallpaper brush. You can use a roller. I think a small foam one will be best. The seal coat is easiest because of the ccolour. I assume white. Perhaps I'm interfering soignore and do what you're told if you prefer. It's your effort and money. It's just I have seen so much done wrong...whether underdone (too thin paint) or overdone (intumescent because its technical, where a sheet or 2 of plasterboard is enough, or is even already there. Do you have calculations based on the steel sections? But will these beams be on show? A steel needs to get to about 300°C to fail. Where will that fuel be coming from? Isn't there a ceiling? Unless of course you are packing the void with kindling and polystyrene, with a hot light bulb in the middle of it, then leaving holes in the ceiling for ventilation.

My opinion is. Perhaps 20 years ago, the best planning officers were tempted to the appealx offices at Bristol. They were precise, firmsl and correct, and applied the rules without opinion. Recently, under government pressure, appeals have been privatised and handed out to the lowest bidder. They don't have the best minds or skills, don't have much time and look for a loophole that allows a quick decision. They avoid anything technical that isn't in their skillset, hence look at easy stuff....as listed above, and matters of opinion on massing, materials.

It removes the way the paint works. It has to be thick. Yes it's horrible but don't thin it. Assuming these are planks. They sit on the steel and protect it. Any tiny gaps (mm) are irrelevant and don't need protection. So the top surfaces are fine left raw. I haven't met a bco yet who made any attempt to measure or assess thickness. Or even count empty cans. I assume they don't understand it Plus don't want any blame after a fire.

It's easy to do. Easier though is to calculate the quantity of paint per coat, split it down into that and apply the several coats. Many people don't apply the sealing coat which it also needs. Surprised to hear that. Why? Who Says? It implies that the steels are remaining on show as a feature.

Essential. Being happy with a potential client is essential.

But I've also seen a professionally installed one that had fallen over complete with truck. Small anchors fitted that pulled out of the concrete. The instructions were perhaps in Italian.

Yes. We had one pinched the same day as it was delivered. Almost as if someone in the hire company was involved. £80K insurance claim Apparently they are dismantled over- ight and in Africa 3 days later.

Without any reference to construction cost.

It's not guessing. Some people are good at it. If you are not, then you need people who are, and have to pay them. Handy hints on here are a good start. Hence with deep reading n here you might find a concensus at allowing £3,000/m2. More for the South East. More for flash. There is always some risk. But that is not the same as guessing.

So you do know what you want and where. Land is stupidly expensive . Say £15M an acre.* Labour likewise. Anything special, ie not a kit or a standard design will increase the cost too. For these reasons, we and our family have done 5 renovations but no new-builds in the SE. * there is what we yokels call "London money". Ie if someone from the big smoke wants it, then they will have it, apparently regardless of cost and sense. Nice view, near a station, no near neighbours will also increase the land cost dramatically. In reverse logic....what will your finished project be worth to sell? Add 200k to that to get an idea of budget required.

What size truck? Some depots have 4m3. I don't think we know the slab thickness, or if you can use any surplus for garden gnomes. Just to be sure.....are there any volumetric suppliers in your area. Suits small pours in so many ways.

When they build cutouts at the factory it is very primitive, and surprising it is ever correct. A very long plank is extruded on the ground over the tension wires. It goes hard but first someone cuts out any boxings with a shovel. Then they slice into plank lengths which ping into their curved shapes. Then they load the lorry in correct or random order.

As my earlier message. They get to choose which jobs they want. Labc tend to price according to a schedule.

A very good point. Water gets through gaskets more than you would hope. It also gets in at joints in aluminium sections. Then it channels to the bottom where there may be a hole in the bottom section, perhaps with a plastic spout in it. That needs to be allowed to drip.

no. Not if you are confident with your design. Sounds to me like a case for building notice. They're just too busy to approve the whole design. Why not have a chat with local independents.?

It will be simple. Your professionals should have thought about it, a bit at least. Pink plasterboard is overused but it makes bcos comfortable.