saveasteading

Oops we missed out the basement isn't a slip. It is a calculated risk that they will get away with it. The LA has to stay tough or the developer will, indeed , get away with it. Getting tenants in also seems to have been a calculated risk, as the dispute was already in place, or so I heard. As above, a 'voluntary' proposal to pay 3 times the cost of the basement would buy land and playground. Actually, maybe 3x is not enough. Half the cost of the project sounds right... but they may suddenly go bust, as many developments are by a custom-made ltd company, for this very reason. You don't like planners, do you? There is only one party to blame here. Anyway, planning law is that you can build anything you want, but may have to take it down again.

You shouldn't need to, as the design guide will already have done that. Joists are designed 1. not to break. 2 not to deflect unpleasantly. the second is usually critical so will not deflect more than 1/360. Even then, some of that is permanent due to furniture, and any bounce is less. So for 3600 span, the max defect is 10mm etc.

I can't foresee a problem. Will that let a little air upwards and any water down? I think so.

What would you use to support them?

So many reasons not to use expanding foam! Won't ever come out again. Gets into places it shouldn't. Will trap water coming down and it can't get out except through walls. House can't breathe. A balloon will probably have some gaps. I've just stuffed mineral wool up my unused chimney. Occasionally there will be drips come through, which I think demonstrates it is the right thing to do. The wool will be sodden but will dry again, and can be changed.

Tangs.

I doubt there is an official definition, but perhaps there is case law on it. I'd think that reusing foundations might be ok, and perhaps retaining a feature wall., but I wouldn't chance it, as the VAT people don't give advice but do impose retrospective charges and fines.

you don't need anything special, so forget 40N. neither do you need readymix unless there are several m3. yes to postcrete, or any diy mix.

Fair enough, but Engineers are well used to picking things up from others. If you get yours to do the liaison, then they will be sure to get the suppliers' responses in the right format, see to the integration and check out that it works for your circumstances. BUT, if I was that Engineer, I would have a lot to learn, as duty of care, about your proposed systems. Also wary of adopting any problems or issues arising from their use. I suggest you very politely ask the people who have declined, to explain their reasons, and if they can suggest any other way forward. The definition of raft varies, but my understanding is that a 'passive raft' is usually a kit. ie you are going for 2 kits that are designed to make self-build easier and reduce consultants' input,but at a premium for the kits. Others here know more about these systems. did you tell the SEs that?

Ive been studying the local timber industry in NE Scotland. Timber is felled, cut into standard trunk lengths (wasting a lot if the trunk size is long), and stacked locally for a year. Mills buy it to suit their market and product. At sawing, they lose a large proportion which goes for firewood or mulch. For stud, they can't compete with imports. Timber, when sliced up, bends all over the place, as stresses redistrubute. If you want it straight, then it has to go through a fancy grading machine, with more waste. Sell it to a local firewood dealer.

Height doesn't matter unless above about 2m. Ie above head. Applies to all windows regardless of size and 'importance'. Blank wall proximity is another matter. I'd have to look it up. The design having clearly illegitimate windows suggests this isn't a skilful design. Builder chancing his arm, using the cheapest person who has cad? Even the huge developers engage low skilled technicians and leave the quality control to the neighbours and the council.

What did you ask for? Replace that broken manhole? Then 1. Stands. 2 and 3 are also correct. I dont know if you are suposed to warn them ' before action'.

Hard to see why they can't. Don't want to perhaps. Capital E or small e Engineers? Have they said they cant do it, or are they disinclined to get involved with the system perhaps? There will be a fair bit of research required before designing Isotex. Others on here know them and may have more to say. If the SEs have looked up Isotex and seen 'liquidation' that must be discouraging I'd think. I'd be inclined to decline too, unless I was short of work.

Now we have seen the pictures, I think there is an implied expectation of a replacement to the same quality and size, especially as this is a readily available product, unless they said they proposed the inferior options. So yes, you could reject their work. I'm guessing they were cash merchants and you've paid.

Good questions. Yes 21m (sometimes 22 or 23) are the general guidelines, basically that any more than that suggests that there is no argument about over-viewing. It is a guideline though and may be varied, for example huge windows looming above another property. it doesn't matter how small the windows are, because the rule applies both directions. I would argue that a fence cannot be assumed to be permanent. The test is quite clear really. Would someone nosily or accidentally be able to see from one window into another? I don't think the height matters. Neither should obscured glass be accepted, as the glass can be changed. I have had windows that were closer accepted, but had to slant our windows so that there was no direct view.

Good luck with it. Perfectly doable diy, but take your time in getting the frame level. Then walk away fir an hour or mire to let it set properly. Heavy manholes can be tricky to handle and , of course, mustn't be dropped in the hole. Look on the cover to see if it says to slide it. Manhole keys can be essential , depending on your model and even more important for lifting it out again. Don't use silicone. If it needs sealing, use grease.

These are my points. 1. Don't bother with a meter, a wet ceiling would show soon enough. 2. internal gutters and downpipes are high risk.

It would be better with gallows brackets than with nothing. SE's specific design would trump the guidelines, whether gallows or lintel or another, so keep talking.

I'm getting tired of this. Your messages are either good practical advice or this hatred of others. The former is all that stops me blocking you. Please give out advice not hatred.

If only there was stone in your area. What logic for having stone , when it won't keep the place cool? I reckon with control of the door, you can keep it a few degrees cooler. Or put a vent in.

I don't understand the question. Are you asking if there is a particular pitch suitable for these different products.? Nor do I understand how there is a parapet but no drainage. I should point out that I am not a fan of green roofs. What is your reasoning for having one? I think water should be got off a roof as efficiently as possible. To delay it going to increase flooding would be admirable but there are other ways. To sequester carbon and clean the air, I'm not convinced yours would end up on the right side of the +/- considerations, but will be glad to hear.

why not take the LH drains the other way, joining the end of the red? a much shorter run, if the falls will allow it. save 15m of drain and some chambers. One reason would be to avoid a drain pipe under the building.

No comment on the joinery. But as to the larder, cool is best, so you don't want that warming up to room temperature, and a reasonably close fitting door is best. Bi-folds have gaps all round so won't do that, unless you also fit seals and closures. That's a well used set square. Reminds me that I meant to broadcast that Tescos had school geometry sets for about £1.50 recently.

As I may have expounded before, roofing is perhaps the easiest job to get away with incompetence. It is way up high, difficult to get to and dangerous. So the field of potential roofers is reduced, and few clients will look before or after. I had one who didn't even know which way to lap felt, or why.

On the hollow blocks. Upright will be much better. If not too much hassle or cost, can you fill them with gravel?. I couldn't prove any improvement but it would add some stability, especially at any weak points ( which these blocks sometimes have), and would increase the bearing surface if the timber, spreading the load.