saveasteading

In my experience the hse inspectors were always sensible and pragmatic about safe access, but private company safety officers were not. The latter were justifying their existences, watching their own backs that they couldn't be blamed, and in some cases it was just power. I'm sure one was waiting for a backhander to look the other way.

Gravel grid will reduce the migration about 90% and is much more secure to walk on. It really needs to be crushed stone rather than beach gravel.

It would be pragmatic for all parties to agree to a treatment plant in place of the old leaky thing. The discharge will be vastly cleaner than currently. Can it be in the same location?

Structural steel is good for big open areas. Once you have gone that direction, your division walls are taking no load and can sit them on the slab. Lightweight steel construction is similar in cost to timber frame but is less forgiving / friendly to work with. But for your narrow span you don't have big spaces, and I would exoect to go with timber.

Excellent. So you cut a slice out and have the house and parking 50% prepared.700m2 @ £20 saved. Or more. Plus the benefit of the hard surface for working and storage. It is in the best position though?

It depends on circumstances but my first instinct is to leave the concrete but shatter it and treat it as your harcore base. But if the levels aren't correct then break it up for hardcore. Whatever, don't design the house around it. Having any hard surface on a site is such a bonus that I hate to break them up.

I can't get knto it. Any hints? Or cut and paste for we lessee mortals?

then there is how it interfaces at the eaves.

No it's fine. I think it's clearly a change of use.

Care to summarise?

Sometimes the simple solution is best. You want one discrete space warmer, so boost it with an electric heater on a thermostat or timer. Or a radiating panel beside the comfy chair.

In the nasty world of the major contractors this is common enough. there is a long chain between the workers, gangs, subcontractors and so on. any one of them can be the weak link in the worker getting paid. But I well remember that being a subby to big, even national' contractors was the worst. They didn't do collaboration and they wanted a discount for paying on time. Their QS would be on a bonus for monies not paid out. And once as main contractor to a family business, a consultant warned me to expect trouble getting the last payment. The client even carelessly said he never pays a bill if he doesn't need the supplier again. It went true to form except I had my alarm clocks in place too. Horrible though.

I googled and found this . Seems sensible. No too wet and not too dry! https://www.alphasand.in/blog/what-is-the-moisture-content-of-sand Maybe someone else knows better than I, but I have seen a dry screed laid and it needed compaction (banging down with a batten) before floating. A bit wetter than that seemed optimum to me.

Absolutely. The ready-mix companies take a reading every day and adjust the water accordingly. but they have fancy kit for it. If you wanted to be scientific about it you take a kg of sand , then dry it in the oven then weigh it again. If the sand is in sealed bags and feels dry I would say it is dry. If it comes in bulk, assume it is wet and deduct 5% of the water otherwise specified. When it is just right it will be annoyingly dry for the builder to lay and float. That's great that you get on well.

They have even overlapped the lower roofs for maximum filth buildup or perhaps a nesting spot. Fibreglass boxes nailed on the trusses. I've argued against these with planners They like them and presumably so do buyers. (articulation / street scene).

That is the recipe. I haven't checked if that is appropriate. On the cement bag it should also say how much water to add. Most contractors will ignore this and put in a lot as it makes it much easier for them to mix and to handle and float. This is based on the sand bring dry. If it's wet then add less water. Too much water and it has to evaporate, leaving that much spare space in your mortar. 5% surplus water ends up as 5% aero bubbles. Thus the screed is weaker and also will shrink and crack a lot. And for precision don't use shovels as volume guides. Use whole or half bags, or fill buckets. Your builder may say nonsense to the above: most manage to avoid knowing about the subject. It will then be your decision. An easy hygrometer substitute is an upturned glass on the screed. If it steams up it is still too wet. It would be great if you can report back in 2 weeks.

Firstly. It's difficult to seal old houses with all these shapes and abutments. Secondly, a really proper job, with stepped flashings and tucked under the wall tiles will cost thousands. Old clay tiles will change colour in time. Does it keep most of the damp out? Other people in here know more about it than I do.

I'm a fan of fibres but no need in your case. It won't crack noticeably unless you have too much water. Drying time varies. But if you get the water content right it nearly all disappears in the chemical reactions. The screed will be dry in days but give it 2 weeks. Do you have a mix recipe including the water content? Using wet sand can mess this up.

"No dig" is a much better idea. The worms do all the work for you, and you don't kill off the microorganism stuff going on under there. Also avoiding concentrations of the same plants. Onions and garlic scsttered among the leafy veg confuses pests. Mix some tagetes in there too. I bought no compost last year but got about 10 bags worth from composting.

Is that so every room has an amazing view? For building physics it is a very inefficient shape. For living in, perhaps 2 generations with an end each and shared middle could work. Our steading, if unwrapped, would be 60 x 5m, and it works as 2 spaces, but needs clever design, and space wasting corridors.

Should be provided. Not must. The basic building regs are that drains should work and be roddable. Thus a 15° bend shouldn't be a problem in real life. If the bend can be immediately at the access chamber then it becomes a non issue. Use one out and one in and a straight run between? This is something to ask the bco.

I was wrong above. It does still say it in the English regs so it will be the same as they both refer to the same British Standard. Document H. Clause 2.49. Access should be provided at....a bend and at a change of gradient..

As hardly anyone appears to install a drainage field as required, I wouldn't assume it is even there. How would we know where one was, as it is all buried unless there are drawings? I first typed 'a dirty video' then realised the water should be clean by there.

There used to be an English rule against any change of direction between rodding chambers, but it was dropped. As long as its roddable I think its OK. And I think the Scottish rules are less prescriptive altogether. I'd need to check.

Absolutely. But when a client says" I'm not paying, what are you going to do about it?" this perhaps is very tempting. He is never going to get paid. I've met a few small builders who have had this. One went back and demolished the porch he had not been paid for, but only after discussion failed. The rich go to court. The poor, and becoming poorer, get the sledge out.