saveasteading

But it says that is covered and we all pay towards that risk. PI will say that reasonable skill must be applied. PI is very expensive even with the qualifications and experience. I think we paid £25k (current equivalent) per annum for 30 years, and no claims.

No. Firstly he prob hasn't got PI. He is a builder not designer, as far as we know. Secondly he has not built as designed or competently. Insurer would decline and walk away.

Yes. Keep them apart.

...remedial action within a reasonable time.... it says. Perhaps you should suggest what is a reasonable time. I'd suggest you have already given notice and sufficient time for them to consider the remedy. You have now to give a target programme. So...you look forward to his formal proposal by ...date. 23rd September? Which is to include his programme for the remedial works. Failure to do this will result in omnibuswoman considering having the necessary remedial works by another contractor. You the builder will be liable for these costs, consultants and other costs arising, and also liquidated and ascertained damages caused by the delay. I hope it doesn’t come to this and look forward to receiving your constructive proposals ASAP. Something like that, and refer to the contract

Principal designer, principle contractor. Both but only when substantially the main player....and sometimes would decline.

I can see the attraction of accepting the role. Being in charge, you can send other trades away, and not have them getting in the way. Also they will have an inspection before commencing, and again can refuse if there is an issue, ie the site is not ready or safe. And then a time comes when they hand over and are no longer responsible. This is better than being subservient to a non competent contractor or client who might be getting in the way.....or worse is that nobody is in charge.

So you would all be in trouble. Why not dig the trenches but delay linking to the ditch? Then the almost clean outfall soaks away but you haven't connected to the ditch. 135 litres per person per day isn't much liquid to soak away, and you could reduce that if it mattered.

I'd say the contract is for now. What does it say happens in these circumstances?

It's not a protected word, unfortunately in the way that Architect with an A is. On the continent a Chartered Engineer can put Ing in front of their name. In due course we may learn the builder's name and remark what a decent chap he is, accepting his mistakes and remedying them....or otherwise. If he did happen to be qualified in a recognised (and relevant) body, he could be disciplined and even lose it.

Ditto. Real people, but understaffed of course. Keep it an easy read...some misunderstanding .....there is and will be zero waste.....

I think it is technically all sortable. Time and timber to straighten the joists , strengthen them, and to spread the load. It is unlikely that the builder will agree, as all the signs are that he doesn't understand structures in the slightest.....and he doesn't know how little he knows.

If old they will be brick. If new then GRP. Dig an exploratory and let us know.

In a foundation use solid concrete. Under a slab or patio use type 1 first. Do you have an onsite mixing supplier nearby. Technically 'volumetric'. They will do it a barrow at a time, but you still need to shift it fast. Or they can sometimes bring a pump with them. Phone your suppliers and explain that it will take 2 hours and see what they suggest. OR mix it on site, a barrow at a time, and you have control and a sore back.

Agreed as above. The bco won't necessarily know all these things, and doesn't appear to have spotted errors to date. Are you holding payments? Do so..it concentrates the mind. Have you put in writing that the work is unacceptable? Do so. An email will do for now. These things are wrong, you insist hheg are put right within the next x days. No payment until then AND you will pursue them for any further cost in rectifying the works. Lawyers can do the same later. It is horrible and unpleasant but essential. You can limit and phase costs by first requesting an inspection and verbal report.

they are the biggest name. The sections are robust and durable, and snap together well. The price is highish accordingly. If you hire a tower it is very likely to be Youngmans.

I was talking to a gang putting in a water connection, this week. They used rod divining, even though they had a cat scanner provided. A 100mm steel pipe would not be the most difficult to find. But they reckoned it was more accurate and the accuracy saved digging.

Are the base plates sitting on the concrete pads, or did you shim them? That timber template for bolt positioning and casting in solid is my preferred method on bigger buildings, but I would probably have used threaded rod and epoxy on yours.

I said 28 man days for skilled erectors, without cladding. Ie 4 x 7 days. You?

Exactly. No need for it to reach the roof or have a ceiling. But if I do put a ceiling on I might leave the gap. I simply decided to let the osb rest on the floor (it's on a concrete plinth) so it was short at the top. Plus the plinth is miles off level.No sole plate as that was another piece of wood..... Obv I could add a top plate if I want. I've learnt that this is tricky. Panels on the ground are very heavy. Leaving off the osb leaves them wobbly. Stick building in the air is very tricky. Def a 2 person job. No building regs. It's an existing pair of wcs in an outbuilding, where the enclosures had been removed for some reason. Goes to a septic tank. Site toilet is quite a bonus.

Ok. a bigger washer won't really help, in fact it is more difficult to get it flat. You have a tiny hole to fill. The screw fills most of it so I suggest you just bodge it with silicone and 'glue' the screw into place. Some into the hole and hand turn the screw in, then slowly with a spanner as there will be little to no resistance. If you want to glue the washer down to then , no harm. Use good silicone mastic. Get a known brand. clear.. One that says it is for outdoor use, stays flexible for ever, and is UV resistant. You could add a small, angled stripe of silicon just uphill of the screw to divert any water that is running down the crown , away from the screw.

I don't think anyone uses rubber, but continue with the term. I have really only just noticed that the screw you show is on top of the crown. this is going only through two sheets of cladding and is not structural. It is a stitching screw. It is unlucky to get a leak there . The gash will help cut through but i suspect it needed a drill first. The screws running in a horizontal line are holding the cladding down on the galvanised purlins and will be different to yours shown. Any of them a problem

Good. I wouldn't dream of pouring a finished floor out in the open, even for industrial use.

Wider and a steeper thread so that it forms it's own thread in the hole. The screw you have surprises me. Most have self cutting points. Yours have needed predrilling. The first 3 or 4 turns are only for cutting its way in. The others can grip the sheet. Yes 1mm more will do. The heads will be standard, as will thecaops in size and colour. Roof screws are a product where buying the big brands is worth it. SFS is prob the biggest. Ejot too. I got my sfs screws with the buildings. For odds I would contact Southern Sheeting. Decent people. Not that your order is going to excite anyone.

Bent chippies prefer tame houses.

Pic now attached showing length of cable and lever of roofing batten.