saveasteading

Very difficult for some. If I declared myself a bricklayer then I would certainly drop mortar down the cavity through incompetence. I wouldn't "not care", or deliberately chuck rubbish in but some would. I can't remember how I know how bad it can be....must have had a late need for an extra door or some such. Plus sometimes could see mortar on a cavity tie. My view is that such workers will still be around come the next job, so idiot-proof where possible.

No. Not for a small area. Of course there are. Others on here will know more. First keep the rain out and get it away. Get all your flashings thought out. Next insulate what results.

....come back later. Re timber cladding. Personally, I don't like it turning grey. I have it coated in sadolin. Very dark brown or light oak. The latter is invisible but that colour then stays put. 10 years in the sun and a recoat is needed. Longer than that in the shade.

I like it a lot. Bricklayers cannot drop mortar down the gap (making a dampness bridge at the bottom) , or their empty cans or fag packets. Plus they can't leave gaps anywhere it is awkward for them. I've specified it many times and observed it in use. It has been good on site and in life. Do make sure you have the right waterproof product obviously, as they can look similar, or a bricky might get the wrong stuff.

I am genuinely open to conversion. Can anyone show me superfoil or similar tested in a real life construction? Last time I researched it, the figures were from some obscure method of insulating a box. Not in a section of wall in a lab. Look at what it is: several layers of foil and plastic and foam. Yes each layer works a bit. but foil works by reflecting energy back into an air space. In multiple layers it then hits another face and bounces back again. It depends on being loose so that the air does the work. I went to a talk by the manufacturers, sponsored by the local BCO, but they didn't mention superfoil, only their other products. That confirmed my suspicions. Thus I think their marketplace is for non-industry persons. Btw, the plasterboard manufacturers used to claim great things for foil-faced boards as insulation, but now don't seem to. I've just had a skim through the website. A masterclass in avoiding any solid information. I have gleaned though 'It used not to be as good as was claimed but it is a bit better now because it is thicker. It does work. But I think there are usually much better solutions.

The planners may have been give a 'rainwater hierarchy' list that says green roofs are best. Politely explain your stratagem that it keeps water away from your harvester and from the aquifer and they should accept it. Also that the roof has to be reinforced, and that maintenance at height is required.

That is to kill any dimpling effect on the coating. you don't see it from 1m away. Some continental manufacturers don't have (or need) the grain. You also, in theory need to coat the cut ends but, with good galvanising and proper cutting it isn't a big thing.

I would much rather spend that money on a rainwater harvester, IF you need fancy measures at all. Who suggested it? Planners do think it's good but they aren't the experts.

What do neighbouring houses have for foundations? Talk to neighbours. Do their houses look OK?

The foil figures are imaginary. Forget them. Pir above and wool in the gaps is good...what makes you think otherwise? The saving on superfoil will go a long way to your heating bill.

Not at all. The planning guidance should be clear and it should be obvious whether traditional or boxy is preferred. That is what your consultant is for. Applying twice suggests you don't have confidence in your proposal. Planners are clerical people and go by the guidelines. Vegetation is spelt wrongly...... Distracting....check for similar mistakes.

I wouldn't use superfoil at all, let alone multiple layers. The figures are theoretical. It has to be loose. You show mineral insulation somehow placed around it. I might use it on a garden shed, but more likely would use bubblewrap. You are better off with filling the whole void with pir or mineral wool.

1. Are you joking? See if there are any builders' merchants in Scotland. 2. I use thermalite because I am a weak amateur. Brickies should use concrete. 3. To fit in, stop comparing small English counties to a nation, the Scottish mainland being 270 miles or so. Staffordshire to Galloway perhaps, with England to Scotland being a bit vague between one step and 600 miles. Ken? And now more helpfully i hope. Cladding can rot in 10 years near the sea The quality manufacturers can advise. You need plastisol coating really and that comes with different guarantees too. But it costs more of course.

A local one who has been around a while and knows the ground.

That is it really. don't hammer through the night, radio not blasting. etc. you could put a note on the door. I'm BonaVista working on building work next door 8 til 5 x mon to sat. ...... let me know if you need particular quiet through the day and I'll see what I can do. photo of that and you are legally clear Id think.

I have used a different method over wonky old timber, Thin ply once, and marmox another time.

9 fixings /m2. OK that's a lot of fixings.

OK. Accepted. Isn't there an equivalent for waste? This one says it is for grey waste. Nobody is checking. Or eat charcoal?

Always a good idea. Lighter cladding and closer centred fixings than I imagined perhaps.

Or simpler plastic tanks that need carrying. Just goohle for caravan waste drim. You won't catch anything off your own fresh waste. Gloves, hand sanitiser? But if the whole idea of drains worries you, best hire a commercial thunder box. £30 X 40 weeks?

If there is a sewer available then you can wheel the caravan waste tank to it, lift the cover, and discharge. OR dig a hole to empty it, well away from your works, let the liquid disappear and gradually fill in. Sawdust is a recognised bug killer too. New hole every 2 weeks or so. Do this until someone stops you, but it won't be harmful short term. OR make a composting toilet, again using sawdust. No chemicals needed. OR long drop, roman style. Don't fall in.

If it has been down long enough (4 weeks say), any cracks should have stopped moving. I've never used decoupling matting and never had problems. Is it really a way of tiling early on a new screed and otherwise unnecessary? It must also be a heat barrier with UFH.

Never seen a GD where I liked everyone before, and also the project. Very well done. The success comes down to vision, determination, being charming, working hard, and being young and energetic. I fail on the charm, and my youthful energy was spent making other peoples' projects. I wish you all the best, and you deserve that lovely home.

@thefoxesmaltings It is on tonight remember @thefoxesmaltings, I hope it has been sympathetically edited.