saveasteading

I don't think the above mention one thing. Avoid parallel faces, as this creates repeated reverberation. The established principle of egg boxes on the surfaces still applies. Don't overdo it or it becomes an anechoic chamber, which is equally unpleasant. I stood 3m from a starter's gun, and heard only a single muted sound.

School for me. I really wish they had made me understand it fully, and the uses, rather than how to pass the exams.

Land. The cost and layout of a plot may be decisive. With expensive land, go up. With views, it depends if you need an upper floor to see them. Then there is the roof structure and finish. The cost varies a lot depending on structure and finish. I'm surprised uo see some large single storeys being built on commercial developments in the SE. They seem to be in prime positions so the cost will be huge. London money.

That concrete is dressed over the surface by the looks of it, not part of a beam. In which case knock out and replace.

I heard that I was called the skip inspector* by a site manager. That showed it was working. I would set a maximum number of skips for a project. Typically 3 for a £1M project. Once everyone thinks of it, the waste drops dramatically. Once had them empty a skip and fill it again as it was mostly air. That, and the principles above, of muck balance ( none off site) and crushing all hardcore. And no cardboard boxes in the skip. I told another contractor MD this and he tried it. He found the site agent hiring in grab lorries instead. * why are there bricks and timber, and empty boxes in this skip..etc.

Almost, depends on how you consider the area, after deducting the stair area on both levels.

It won't be very strong, being washout. Mostly cement slurry, and very wet. That was a well organised site. Most aren't. Good thinking on your part. Any ideas on the trades tidying up after themselves?

What they are saying is almost correct. These depths of foundations are for the amount of water that a mature tree will suck from the ground. So we assume that the trees will continue to maturity. If these were immature then the effect is less. How much less, I don't think is known. Thus your depths are on the safe side. But the depth stated us as if they are retained. And there has been one winter of recovery. It's not for me to say more and I was mainly checking it wasn't all to the most extreme depth.

Welcome. What do you know, and what do you know you don't know?

That is wrong and needs sorting. Was there a surveyor involved in the PWA? It's their job to resolve this. It will likely be unpleasant but you are not the culprit. Let the preofessional deal with it, and i trust the fees will go to the neighbour too.

The building regs. A long time ago i did these calculations from first principles. 50mm dia up to 2m. I've forgotten it all now, but my point is that it is complex. Someone has done these sums for normal uses and published them. The building regs have these in chart form. Using them is easy and slightly conservative, so do that. Most importantly, avoid sharp turns as they severely disturb flow. Also note that too steep a slope and too big a pipe cause solids to be left behind....the charts cover that too.

Builders who are ignorant of their subject do not do research. No chance of the wrong unz being on here.

That sounds onerous. The thirstiest tree in heavy clay. Some designers make the mistake of designing for the closest foundation and applying it all round. Are yours shallower further from the former trees? How long ago were they removed and how mature?

It is an unheated building so doesn't need insulation, although it is prudent to have some. The office is secondary and can be dealt with on its own merits. How cold does it get relative to outside?

I'd say no, its an option. Very seldom used. We don't know much about the location or product so can't get so precise. And the OP isn't responding so I'm ducking out.

Of course it can be done. But is it necessary? Forklift drivers can wear warm clothes indoors as they can outdoors. For perishable goods I think I'd be more concerned about summer heat. Up at the roof space it can get horribly hot, and the plan shows skylights.

If it will absolutely be only hardcore friendly materials then shop round for those who acknowledge it, and price accordingly.

Manage it well so that there are no accidents and you won't get in trouble. Assuming that contractors are doing it safely is not enough. You must stay in touch and stop silly things. Fortunately you don't have to buy Cadbury's and thefore....no I can't continue the analogy.

A good point. Very little heat disappears down through the floor of a big shed, as the outdoor effect diminishes away from the perimeter. This is understated by the insulation manufacturers. Thus you are even getting some warming from the ground if the internal temperature happens to plummet. Just a thought....I was told that B and Q warm their stores with gas or oil heating , but with the exhaust also sent indoors. This is on the basis that they are only taking the edge off the cold, and the volume is huge. I'd be interested if someone more expert can confirm or refute this principle. If you have work stations within the warehouse it is simple to install local radiant heating. This will then spread around the space and may provide the extra degree that helps through the February night. And I haven't mentioned airtightness. You have the benefit of these trees against the wind, but draughts will suck out your nice tempered air. The worst leaks are often at the interfaces of the walls to the roof and slab.

Much the same usually, after deducting the space taken by stairs. But if the land is expensive that dictates not building on a single storey. I suggest you employ a professional estimating service. Their costs are also rules of thumb, but by element, so more project specific. But if you don't know what you want yet, then the $5k /m2 may apply. Remember that experts are dong this commercially all the time, so you are competing with them.

I am assuming GB conditions. You heat the office with ashp, and remember to insulate the walls to the warehouse, and the ceiling. A lobby at the outside door will keep the heat in. The warehouse doesn't need heating. It would be hideously expensive to do so, and it would end up hot in the roof and cooler at the floor. Heat loses through open loading doors are extreme, of course. Through a closed loading door there are still draughts especially at the spring unless you go for top of the range. If your concern is for the product , then install a primitive gas or oil heater linked to a thermostat. It may only fire a couple of times a year. More importantly, keep the door shut. You say it is a barn. I hope you know that an agricultural barn is designed without factors of safety and needs reinforcing for other uses. You have come to the right place.

I can't recall ever having an issue with joists selected from the span tables. Remember that in a domestic situation a lot of the load is furniture so part of the deflection is permanent... and any bounce in walking is quickly dampened by the sofa. But in a dance studio or gym it could be very unpleasant.

Success! Had that with a skip full of carefully stacked roof cladding. The driver said he shouldn't take it if it is that heavy, but did. The skips of mixed waste that are taken to a sorting depot turn the value of the air gaps into money.

All done. took just an hour to change the inlet ballcock and overflow, to which add nearly a week to get the bits together. I next have a messy job of bagging up the wet insulation, and replacing, and checking all the pipes where I've displaced the foam insulation. Then regluing the damaged area of the parquet floor once it has shrunk back to size. Then the ceiling damage. For the want of a nail...etc. In this case, a bodge by the plumber 25 years ago. Should I add inhibitor as @Gus Potter suggests? I don't expect the circuit is much diluted, as the water in it doesn't run through the header tank.

What is the ceiling height? Can you put a thin insulation down and screed over that. Put the bulk of insulation elsewhere. check door heights too.