saveasteading

Either. I'm thinking of working in a confined space, and not undermining foundations, as compared to open space with the rest of the groundworks.

It's not difficult or hugely expensive but needs knowledge and care. by the time you've built a waterproof tank for a basement (waterproof on the outside) you might as well make that your pool, lined internally, so all concrete not a premade tank. I wouldn't want to do it inside an existing house though. That's what takes it from 20k to 40k, or 80k Then add for M and E and damp prevention. Thereafter you may use the pool perhaps 1,000 times at £40 a time before allowing for the upkeep. Sorry, sometimes I can be a bit negative.

Once you have dealt with a wet basement you don't want it again. It may depend on the building's location and the ground. If you dig a hole does it fill? It is a reversed water tank really. would you build in brick and blackjack to store water? It works for a while then starts to leak.

I think that was meant to be 'necessary.' Yes ask, and some will include some minor changes. most importantly, to tell the gangs using it they only get one readjustment , ot whatever.

A readymade tank is a good idea. It doesn't leak and doesn't crack. The slab and base need to be strong, and you need retaining walls for the pit. It's a basement though and will fill with groundwater. When you empty the pool it will float up so clever design needed. A concrete tank needs skilled design and construction or it will leak. In med spain the ground is hard and dry and doesnt move so they get away with rough concrete...most of the time.

5%

If the sheets are uncut, or cut properly, and with a quality product, it doesn't need it. Silicon tape under any laps stops capillary action and water sitting there permanently. Double thickness plastisol for exposed sites is a fairly recent product.

There is a varnish to coat the cut ends. But the corrosion is usually caused by incorrect cutting. The factory cuts the roll of material by shearing, and this drags the galvanising over the orherwise exposed steel. It also keeps the plastisol fully adhered. Another cause is if sheets are lapping lengthwise without a seal, as water sticks beneath. I've only ever used top end materials, but apparently the agricultural grades don't last as long. If end corrosion is spotted early then it can be stopped.

Some businesses have loads of kit, so the time period isn't significant. They are charging for the labour. Others have hardly any, so it matters a lot....or they take it from elsewhere and paint their own colour code on it. Worth having several quotes from bigger and smaller. Changing the scaffolding mid project cam be costly too. Will that be jecessaet?

Is this single metal sheets on suspended timber battens? What do you see when looking up at the roof underside? A sketch would save more questions.

I'd say that for certainty, you build a solid ceiling with no penetrations, using acoustic bar, and fibreglass behind. Then no sound will get up or down from you new acoustic enclosure. Then you build your secondary ceiling below, again using acoustic bar, but you can inset your spots and even speakers, maybe. The cheapskate chancer method would be to not build the secondary ceiling but inset what and where you like with an acoustic baffle behind each. There are hoods for spotlights, designed as fire barriers but with some muffling perhaps. You could attach additional sound insulation to that. Ideally you want some density too, hence @Russell griffiths plasterboard box. So a plasterboard box that will slot in the void, stuffed with rockwool, and then a light with a hood on it pressed in.

I looked this up. 4 staff members, and 5 other persons. Have you anything more on this as it seems to be an allegation, and unspecified, not a known default so it isn't proving anything as you suggest. I'd say the chances of 4 staff being illegally in cahoots is quite small, but I guess the team get arrested and bailed to allow questioning.

Have you checked out the exposure resistance yet? Also how the seams lap. Some simply fit over each other, while others need the joint to be rolled, in position, by a special tool.

That price seems totally wrong (very high) to me. What is access like, and is this including a scaffold system? It should be done in a day, such a small area. add another for the flashings being finished off neatly. probably 3 persons, simply as a team setup and for handling the long sheets. If you cur this type of cladding it has to be with a snipping motion. It drags the galvanising over the steel cut. This can be steel snips (they come in left hand , right hand and straight) and nibbler (a motorise punch that nibbles a cut by means of punching a stream of crescent moons (or toenails), Never use cutting discs or reciprocating saws as they wreck the material and it will rust.

If I could find my little black book, then this would go in it. It is full of such info from all the trades. m2/hr and such like. The value of such information is that it does not change over the years with inflation. It might however need some factor applied to the work ethic of a region.

Agreed. You can hire the proper shears and nibbler if you need to cut it. Also research screws. I would only use stainless from a major brand. And get the official head to fit precisely. A lightweight battery drill with accurate torque settings you might buy or rent. Lindab, catnic and cladco buy in coils of steel ready coated, and roll-form it. So it will be the same stuff. I don't know Greencoat. I doubt it is suitable so near the sea, so get assurances. Normally you will need the extra thick version of plastisol coating. It's not just the salt, also the gulls mess. And design so that the rain can lash all areas....no overhangs or ledges.

A properly done one or not at all. Ducting protects the chimney but also you and your neighbours from fumes through the brickwork. The ducted intake is mandatory now I thought. Cheap and nasty ones will warp and allow fumes into the room. All 'niceness' is soon forgotten

It's much more interesting being there. The only ones going to committee are big or controversial. But there is 'people watching' too which you wont get online. Get there early and see if councillors are discussing items. Try to work out which, if any, have looked at the documents. Is the planner having to explain policy to councillors? It is as interesting as you make it. Hoped perhaps. There are useless planners like in every walk of life. And the number of times i have heard the head of planning or chairman explaining utter basics to the members!

Everyone critical here, please attend your local council planning committee as a visitor having read up on the applications. Then report back.

Don't cut it out. It appears to be holding up the cross timber which further supports the ceiling joists. It looks rather skinny hrnce the exta support. And someone has cut out the tops of joists for services. Too many i think.

I have some experience of helping people with poorly constructed newbuilds. I understand that some developers are thorough and have good reputations. Of course i haven't been asked to look at them. Do not assume that builders are all competent, that site management is thorough or that a bco has inspected every element.

Correct. They have 2 advantages though. They will get to speak for 3 minutes if the application goes to committee. There is an element of authority. That counts for nothing if the planning constraints are not followed. That's generally pejorative of course. But nobody in a nice place wants it spoiled. A neighbourhood plan is the answer.

Proper curtain walling will be 2 to 3 times the price of everyday glazing supported inside a frame. Then allow for the framing. If you look af the section sizes, the reason is clear.

Interesting stuff. Lots of comments as if we had seen the issues and the report. Is the writer actually a qualified Engineer, capital E? As an aside. When i took my professional exams, 25% of the essay marks were for clarity of writing, but less than half marks in that element eg 12/25 and it was a total fail of 3 + years post uni experience. Brevity and clarity are to be welcomed. But there is a limit. Gus describes it well.

I'm not going to discourage you engaging someone to do this for you. However don't assume that they will be good at it, or that you won't. Splitting the job up and getting risk assessments from each trade is a simple start. Even on big projects I tried to do this as the greatest risk was the interfaces between different trades.