saveasteading

We need to extend our cover. Bug fif how long? At some stage we aren't constructing, but finishing. Then perhaps partially occupying, then completing externals. I really don't know how long to extend ( risk is obv reducing but Idont feel that the premium is) Any advice?

As another discussion... on some projects that man would need a helmet and thus have to use a lower step. And be on a 400mm platform not a ladder. Myself? I'd approve of bump caps for boarding, they really work if a board drops.

No. With a prescription or if the qualified pharmacist prescribes it. You can even only buy ibuprofen and paracetamol in pharmacies.

Should say specialists. I noticed that there is move from unknown or little known badges towards the big names. In the typical aircon units (one out, one in) were Hitachi, mitsububishi, Haier, despite being twice the price. Also Bosch. And re balcony solar, the domestic plugs in Spain are reversible and not well-fitting.

It's not perfect because we have to deal with reality. I think the sound tests as published are all done within panels . i.e.no edges. When I had room to room tests done in a completed project, all rooms performed a category below what the spec sheets claimed. The tester said this is always the case. You'll be relieved to know it was OK. This is what we are doing.. the same as you but added quilt (to be tidied!).

True.

The opposite surely. Do you have the time or inclination to sketch your ultimate design for the world to see?

But then the plasterboard must touch and be sealed at the interface. It's a compromise. I think you are OK unless it is a recording studio, or a bedroom under a gymn.

Ahem. I spent 3 horrible days under a Boots factory. Damp smelly and 3ft headroom. Using a water level, as lasers hadn't been invented. The water settled in seconds on each of the several hundred occasions. Perhaps it is proportional to the diameter and length of pipe. As mine was mostly lying flat on the solum I assume this dampened the movement.

Otherwise a lake would be higher on the sunny side than the shady.

If you consult them early, they can assess off plan, and that is the time to change the design or argue the niceties. We've done that and established that we don't have technical disagreements, and had some good advice. The assessor is highly engaged in interested, including alternative opinions.

I'm always researching for you all..... I went in to a Spanish diy store yesterday. Think b and q with more emphasis to trade. Eg lots of plumbing and electrics that would be from survivalists in UK. They are revamping so there was less solar to see than is on their website. But I could have bought from a big stack, a 440W balcony panel, for €449. That simple. Trolley, checkout, take home and plug in.

3 years later Does this take the record for a prolonged topic? @Gus Potter having a catch-up. I've recently done some drypack and some poured and learned even more. But I will relay that if the subject comes up again.

We have this issue. A patio door opens on to an area that has to be low fof drainage. As levelvaccess is desirable anyway we are intending to make the area from slabs or large tiles supported by mapei pedestals. They leave a gap fit drainage. Maximum grade is 5%. I can't say this works for you but it may he an option. There is another manufacturer too.

Is that picture showing what we are discussing? With the polythene my wetness point is silly. Maybe it could do with more clips, or just screws, where there are no pipes, as anchors. Maybe this is a job for the fibre variation of screed.

I'm thinking of the rb to joist connection. It is timber so needs a timber screw and I hadn't considered they might use a drywall screw.

Resilient bar has always worked well in practice. If any noise gets through it will be flanking sound, coming between the wall and ceiling interfaces, so follow details.

I'd be ok with that. Because there could be voids I agree with 75mm capping but not all sand. Thick sand ruts and gets footprints, and so concrete can dip into it and the slip property is lost. I'd prefer 50 or 60mm of type 1 or 2, then the rest in sand.

As nick says. But if the spec says 1 screw then that is what you should do but only with very good screws with enough thread. Why? The rb works by minimising direct contact. What there is, is offset by that loose-hanging Z of the bar. So when it vibrates it is a wibbly wobbly reaction rather than direct and in phase.

I will be perfectly happy to miss the egg box at about £6/m2 and labour. Thinks. My instinct is that the screed won't adhere to the woodchip floor properly, whereas the egg boxes are screwed or nailed down. Will the wet screed interact messily with the woodchip? Will ufh clips fix neatly and securely to the floor? Chipboard may flex. Opp argument Screed sticks to anything. It will be set in 3 hours and there is very little free water. Clips.. we can test that. Flex. But it won't unless we drop the piano. Cheaper, quicker.

You could Poss use skinny ply to the whole landing. Filler under the worst of it. Then smooth off at the perimeter.

Not at all. We are allowed logic, hunch and gut feeling. And wondering. It stops us walking over things that look flimsy, without calculations or test certificates.

I had exactly this issue on a previous and very old house. I skimmed it level locally using latex screed. It lasted for years and may yet be there. BUT I haven't seen this product again. It came as 2 parts if I recall. There was certainly a bag of dust and there may have been some liquid additive. The finished product was very flexible, almost like a soft shoe sole, (ie latex) and that will be why it stayed in place. I'm hoping someone else might know what it was. 'Latex' screeds now all seem to set hard and brittle. It was almost like a layer of bostik. Thought. What about wood glue? The kind you buy in a tin.... evostik?

Imagine how much character some of us must have.

Absolutely. This is little understood. In fact there used to be false, or musleadingly vague, assertions about the effect of shiny faces on plasterboard, pir, and that loft wrap multilayer stuff I won't name. These have now been dropped but the rumour lives on.* It is is still implied that the aluminium layer within an underfloor heating pipe is doing this, but it isn't. I've burned the plastic off an offcut and found the inner pipe is surprisingly robust, ie not like kitchen wrap. I don't know what it is for.. it helps it hold a shape but also makes it vulnerable to kinking. Back to the question... some of these crates do have pockets of air but I doubt there is much/any benefit in foil. It's not as if the heat is being lost outdoors or to a neighbour..... it would only heat the ceiling void at worst, and only once. * @Mulberry View do you mind sharing where you heard of this supposed benefit? ** I once went to a presentation by superfoil, arranged by the local bco. (It was a short walk and free buffet). I was itching for the pitch on reflective aluminium but he didn't mention it, just another new product which I haven't seen since. Btw they measured insulation in their own way. I'm not saying it didn't work, but bubblewrap is cheaper.