saveasteading

Standing seam is great for large areas as the middle is easy. The edges are difficult, so it isn't great for small areas. Standing seam is industrial cladding pretending to be lead. I don't mind seeing screws and saving 1/3 or more.

Something robust there are all sorts from very squidgy to almost solid.

The job is more in control with a hard floor . The downside would be if you damaged it by impact or scratching s screed, or putting a screw through the ufh pipes. Drying isn't an issue. It doesn't take long and most of the hardening is chemical. That all changes if doing it before the weatherproof structure.

It's been an interesting detour. But back to the early responses. My hunch is still that 3 phase would be the less complex "go to", rather than very clever, but complex, inverters from single ph to dc then to 3 ph which must carry some cost and increased fault risk.

@BenB all the above is right and sensible. If you have gas, stick with gas. Ufh on an uninsulated floor is throwing heat away. Modern rads will be much better than what you are taking out.

It looks as if we have a club of three at present, and some others dithering or not committing.

1mm thick stainless. Cut a radius line and lap the edges and rivet together for a cone. Then turn down the edges.

25mm could be added top or bottom. Gives an overlap too. Thermal mass is another conversation, but often used to justify over-designed slabs. Eps about £50/m3 pir £80/m3, grout £400/m3

I'd say that using steel 2mm or thicker won't be noisy. For a cone, cut a segment from a circle and reweld and that won't be noisy either. Is a downturn going to help? Maybe just turning with pliers will do it in crinkly fashion.

They aren't obliged to report the test run or do a best of three or whatever.

Why not increase the insulation? It's much cheaper per m3 than screed and you get better insulation.

That water is somehow being replaced every day. So it's either a very damp house (and a problem to sort) or fresh air in this very damp weather. I had this worry once. A concrete floor that the flooring contractor said was too wet.* We ran indsustrial dehumidifiers for 2 weeks, collecting several litres a day. Then we got a proper expert with a hhumidity measuring box stuck to the floor. It was fine so that water was simply coming from the air. * I learned then that this is a ruse to get out of the warranty. See also other discussions on BH about 1day per 1mm of slab for drying.

From what I've seen of heat exchanger construction it might completely block it.

If. I believe it is a skill that is fairly rare.

A spare room for a poorly or favourite sheep?

I'm confused by that. Any latency in dry screed is deliberately made on the surface for a smooth finish and should be minor. I can't see why you would have to do much to it. The main concern would be tamping ripples no worse than on a poured screed.

My thoughts exactly and I was going to have a read up later. So if anyone can point it out that would be helpful. I was once asked by the test guy 'what number are you looking for? It hadn't occurred to me before that I might want 3.1.

And a very comfortable shepherd. Isn't the point of a shepherd's hut that it's a bit basic?

I've been there more often than I'd have liked. Mostly with clients who didn't want to pay, basically.. ( 'never pay unless you need them again' policy) sometimes a rubbish subcontractors won't sort stuff. So I know you can be 100% right, win your case, yet still bd out of pocket and seething. We don't know your specifics or the right and wrongs... so all we can say is follow the processes firmly yet politely, check how much proof you have, and talk it through on here and/or with trusties.

All too common among weak and corrupt circles. Even getting genuine quotes in by a deadline ( at great cost to the contractors) opening them then telling their mate the price. I had a boss once who i'm sure only got work this way as schmoozing was his only skill. I didn't stay long.

The contract will include processes for valuations and disputes. You must follow this. The next stage will be you asking them to justify their requests for extras. You also state that there are quality issues, if there are. Then it gets expensive for both parties. There are specialist claims surveyors who work for you in presenting a reasoned and costed claim. The other side may do the same. Then layers and adjudicators get involved. If you're talking 20k dispute then it may be worth it. If the architect feels at risk they may take one side of thd other....again wrongly. Diy isn't likely to work. Anyway have a read up of the contract. And tot up the approx level of monies involved.

It does sound that way, esp as you weren't informed they were working together elsewhere. Have you proof of this or could you gather it quickly before protesting formally. For now just say you aren't happy and are reviewing before making any more payment. Is there a recognised formal contract in place? Who chose it?

Are these working chimneys? Why do you want cowls? Rain and bird guards or spinning ones? For the former, I googled and found 250mm easily, I suspect you may need to reduce the diameter to suit the biggest you can readily find. It might look odd and not keep the rain out unless modified. OR the non-mechanical ones look very simple and could be modified at hood and the legs, or fabricated even.

As necessary, if at all. The Steading isn't stuffy in he slightest. not as airtight as a newbuild would have to be, but plenty good enough.

It's just a primitive undulating washer sort of thing that retracts the bit then releases it. So it is still mainly scraping the surface. I wish I had learnt of SDS drills much sooner. I had thought they were only for concrete breakers.