saveasteading

You mention "they" a lot. It sounds as if the community needs "you" and others with practical ideas to get things changed.

Volume? Of course it depends on the garden needs, but it's a decent amount of water. But it would be quite low in the ground and might need pumping. Health and safety wise? Everyone will say no, and probably rightly so. But what comes out generally looks clear and I know it hasn't killed trees I've had drains near to. My hunch is probably no harm with decorative plants or trees but should not be used for vegetables.

A further thought on this. We often see comments (I am not referring to BH) that 'they are all the same' or 'all on the brown envelopes'. I suspect that people saying that are projecting what they would be doing, onto others. They might usefully attend a council meeting, of which most are public, and see if they fancy giving up several evenings a month to keep the wheels moving. Yes there are people who abuse their position, but most are well intentioned, even if we might not agree with them, and give up a lot of time. There are often vacancies on Parish Councils which gives useful experience before having to stand for election at the next 4 year cycle.

Nice looking drawing but fascia is spelt thus, and without the 's' it is a mis-spelling , however common. I'm not clear on what is supporting the 'running bearer' . And although it is stated as 100 deep it scales much less. Plus there seem to be a lot of those diagonal supports.... a lot of wood on show. It is strange that such a formal looking drawing, which initially inspires confidence, has these, and maybe more, errors.

Use treated timber (Tanalised or equivalent) and C24.... the C16 untreated is generally for lightweight internal work, and the cost difference is small. The element doing most work in your example is the fascia board, as it is supporting multiple rafter and joist ends, and that isn't good. Start with the gallows brackets, then add a timber to the front, bearing on them, then fit the rafters and joists. The fascia is for show and to keep the weather out. This is a very small structure which is supporting your tiles most of the time, but occasionally will have wind uplift. Nobody is going to die if it fails, but it is still best to keep it to the logic above.

I recommend all, especially critics, to consider standing for their local parish or borough. We need you. Then report back on whether it was easy, well rewarded, selfish: or hard work, not or barely rewarded, or public spirited. Or to stop criticising all councillors, politicians and public servants.

I recommend all, especially critics, to consider standing for their local parish or borough. Then report back on whether it was easy, well rewarded, selfish: or hard work, not or barely rewarded, or public spirited. Or to stop criticising all councillors, politicians and public servants.

An interesting discussion on radio 4. https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/m003011r Very architect heavy, but that was I interesting in itself. I have new quotes... shiny buildings.....green toupee.

Yes. Over what was prob a £2k claim ( I don't know because they handled it all). I'm now with Allianz which came top in 3 different comparisons... yet strangely variable between them. They don't ask the right questions.

I was very surprised when Churchill said they were not offering renewal. Because of a relatively small claim? Shame, as their customer service was exemplary. Ie they answered phones and had real people. So it now seems more likely that it was a takeover thing. These good people are probably gone. As I've mentioned before, an insurance manager proudly boasted that they had the lowest payouts in the world (40% of income I recall). They spent a lot on resisting and refusing claims. So I agree that we need to know this as well as the cheapest quote. That's where "Which" ratings must be worth a look.

@scottishjohn when a petrol station is charging 6 to 8p/litre more than one not far away is this always location and convenience? Because as you say , 3p/l is not much return, but suddenly to become 10p is a huge difference. In Spain there is even greater variance. It is nearly always linked to attended service or self serve (8 to 10c/l) . The 3rd option is total automation with no shop which is hopeless when there is any problem of course. These can be cheaper (no labour) or dearer (remote or 24/7).

generally this is the case, but it depends on the ground. If sitting on hot rock, the borehole will be expensive but decent heat may be harvested. payback is a few years At the other extreme is heavy clay and with other houses seeking the same heat source. Payback is never, and air source is the way. in between are other boreholes with sand or silt that has a flow of water through it, warming the pipes. Pipes in surface trenches are not really harvesting ground heat, but the energy from the sun in summer, stored in the ground, but diminishing, through the winter. These can be simply installed behind a plough that makes it very easy, or in a trench being dug for another reason. Payback again depends on aspect and ground. 10 years perhaps. The slinky companies of 20 years ago have gone, and rightly so. Pipes in lakes or very large ponds can be an option if the volume and depth are sufficient, and especially if water is flowing.

Just thought of this: according to contemporary accounts incl ballads, and evidence in palaces, the nobility did lots of hunting and sports. Then as you say they fought or caught diseases.

I don't recall ever doing it. But your way seems sensible. Push a plug of rockwool to give a stop then a sharp sand mix as facing.

Agreed, and I don't think that planners have the skills or knowledge to know if it is appropriate.... they've had a free seminar with sandwiches, from an mvhr body or energy consultant, and now think they are experts. I had a similar argument re green roofs. And superfoil nearly had one council convinced that it was effective. ( I went for that sandwiches and to be a pain at question time) You could tick a box with a tiny mvhr. I saw a pretty useless one at an exhibition.. a box on the inside of an outside wall. The guy couldn't explain why the same air wouldn't go straight back out again. You might find something a bit better with some ducting. If the bco doesn't want one then that might kill it.

Nobody cares about 6 inches. The conditions are to prevent a greedy increase.

The SE may well say to leave it alone while the winter allows the ground to get wet again and perhaps expand. Filling cracks now could be the worst thing to do.

This is exaggerated surely. Take a castle or even old palace... there isn't much light coming in, and normal people lived in dark boxes. Did a candle really make that much difference? Prior to that people lived in holes in the ground or deep in forests. Presumably poor people were outside scraping at the ground in daylight so were healthier. No mention of skin colour. So the pale northerners will get more benefit sitting round the family candle

That's absolutely what I would do... if it wasn't my profession already. The reason I say that is that even a very good building surveyor (not a quantity surveyor) who is RICS, or the most practical registered Architect will see the cracks and tell you that there are cracks. And that you need an SE to look into it. The AI suggestion above will include both the surveyor or Architect and then the SE. Surveyors and Architects are much better at self publicity, hence AI has found this ready made suggestion.

I'd suggest using 40mm pir filled double skin. It is a good balance between stiffness and practicabiliry, price, insulation. And it will be much the same height as you have already. Flashings and seals need detailing Easy to source too at about £40/m2. BUT, with waste that's coming to 10k already. Plus vat. So let's say 10k sheeting 2 for sundries Gutter 3 Scaffold towers etc 2 2 workers x 3 or 4 days say 2k Tool hire 1. 20k and rising. Plus vat. Plus the risk that you make mistakes. Are the purlins OK?

How about telling the timber industry Eg the TDA. Timber Development Association? If it is feasible then they could issue standard designs foc.

That's about the temperature today as it was over the weekend in daytime. If it was still curing I'd have to take back everything I've said about how dry it is. It is 40 to 50mm thick and has been there for months, on top of PIR. It is not a high end machine, but it is showing a number and trend. I haven't even read the instructions, so maybe it should be removed and replaced for every reading.... that was the case for the poshest one i've seen which was like a mahogany and glass carriage clock with a brass gauge inside it.

I'm simply dubious about whether the RHS have fully tested this over a period of years OR thought through any other effects it might have. An advantage of your proposal is that you could trim or fully hack back the ivy occasionally. perhaps half each year. OR I have this and it is very vigourous, flowers for ages the remains attractive. we have pigeons (Posh name doves) and sometimes robins in ours on a trellis. It could almost be known as the 'mile-a-minute' clematis, such is the rapid growth of this variety. Clematis montana 'Mayleen' is the best scented Clematis montana too, with delightful satin-pink ruffled blooms. As if that wasn't enough, it has sparkling bronze foliage too. If you want a quick-growing handsome climber, look no further! Height: 10m (33'). Spread: 3m (10'). Pruning Group: 1. For the mesh, Id get a plastic coated one, as it looks decent when bare.

Today.

No, you are making appropriate enquiry. I say don't do it. Ivy is superb for wbb's (wee brown birds). We have a wren , a possible greenfinch and a wbb on a small patch covering a neighbour' dreadful outbuilding. But is bad for buildings in 1. Clinging to surfaces, 2. Creating damp, 3. Intruding through any gap it can find. So use something else there, like honeysuckle perhaps and put the ivy up a pole or tree.