saveasteading

We have bought a cable reel with 2.5mm blue cable, 25m long. It is rated at 3,100W. It is to 'Arctic' ,specification for outdoor use. It is very visibly a much heavier duty than normal cable, and the spec confirms it. We plumped for a reel rather than a loose cable as it will be e asier to move around /relocate/ remove and be less vulnerable to damage. The downside would theoretically be that it is lft prly oiled, but our guys know this and we will remind them. From what I can find, the most powerful 110V router/bench saw draws 2,100W I have also taken on board the suggestion to retain 110V supplies for the lighting. As well as spreading the load this might stay on if the other circuit trips. It cost about £70. The one shown in earlier discussion seemed cheap but doubled when the checkout page added 'delivery'. Also I trusted the specialist supplier more than the other options through Amazon etc. Thanks for the advice.

Any fibres would have been distributed very thoroughly as part of the manufacturing process. And If a lab had considered the sample too small then they would have said so. Best not even discuss the matter with friends or family as there is no need for anyone to even know you had been concerned. Unless they ask of course, and you have the answer. there is no asbestos.

YES. It is proven safe, so stop worrying.

as @Russell griffiths says. first tidy it all up. I have no idea where the outlet could go. We don't know the site or circumstances. That's why I'm asking you if you have any ideas or more information. I have been presuming you might dig out 600mm to 1m and have a pipe at the bottom of that, so water would run to an end and from there you need to take it elsewhere or it won't drain the area. What is on e land you took the photo from? ie to the inside of that fence. Is it your land? And is there more retaining wall between the fence and the house? Not wanting to be rude but it's always worth checking... are you following the logic of building a drain and getting the water away from behind the wall?

You don't worry about it. The heat loss will be miniscule. For perspective, you could counter it by closing the front door a second more quickly or turning a light off for 10 seconds... I'm guessing. Depending how much space you have, it makes it easier to screw or glue a timber or ply plate to the steel, and then the box fitting is by wood screws.

Agreed. That's a start and may solve the water thing. Maybe that's enough, but my concern is that it is a wall by a builder and not technically designed. I guess if it is ever overloaded by the land above it won't collapse just crack or rotate. @slystallone if you do that, where can you take the drainpipe from the end of your new trench?

All the above. Every site is different. Ducts and talking to real people (eventually) at the facilities companies. You can work for a while with a generator and bowser. Or even bringing in a few containers of water every day. Until the generator gets stolen. It is more difficult than you think. But you must become the expert.

Doubtful. £500 for the gravel. Add pipes, membrane, digger, and the earth has to be taken away. Anyway, how deep and where would you take a drainpipe?

If you use bathroom drain pipes, then you can join them with junctions and bends, either down to a drain or angled across the wall.

that could be changed very readily if there was the will.

Let's have a guess that it needs a steel beam on 2 new steel posts on new concrete foundations, then lots of making good. £10k?? Structural Engineer, Building regulations, mess and disruption (living elsewhere?)

One of the nicest things a client said to me ...we were a subcontractor to them but with design input, they being a bigger contractor, was..... "you are not always the best price but always the best value." He retired. His successor use someone cheaper and handed on some of my suggestions. They went bust. Sometimes expertise is doing simple things well. Such relationships are more difficult to find on self build, because you don't know each other. Fundamentally though the real expert may not have to charge more, because it's easy for them.

I wish, but don't think. No party politics here, but we know a lot of people like to hear that everything is somebody else's fault and easily sorted.

If you tell the public the whole, realistic story you don't get elected.

Exactly so. The former would cost £10k for a job half done. And is it your land? Holes £500. A heavy duty core drill with diamond core cutter can be hired for £150 or so. You could join your outlet pipes up to drain away tidily, or make it a natural water feature of moss, slime and ivy.

A professionally designed wall would have drainage behind it including at the base, so that water never builds up. Yours seems to be reasonably stable considering, so applying the various methods above is likely to suffice

The 'Home Counties'. Bedfordshire, Oxfordshire etc. Now that HS2 isn't tunneling under to ease the pain of the locals in the only part of the UK where here are such considerations, , that would be an ideal place for wind turbines. I'm sure the locals won't object if it is for the general good. If they took extras it would feed London where there is obviously a need. Made at Ardersier using wind power, and shipped down. An alternative of course would be a tariff for power heading across the border... it is industry after all.

That's amusing but unfair. A skilled professional often makes it look simple.

@markcand I posted much the same same simultaneously.

If water gushes out you are relieving the pressure. The problem you will have is a temporary flow of water which should later slow. If it dribbles out ditto, but then we know the issue is less severe. Is the wall poured concrete or block? That is something you'll find soon enough in trying to drill. You appear to have a dam rather than a retaining wall. If it is properly designed in concrete then I would have expected a drainage system. So it's more likely a bit diy. If it is blockwork then any builder can drill holes. If it is concrete then they can hire a core drill. There are other Engineers on here so second opinions will be welcome, including whether you should have a consulting Civil or Stuctural Engineer look into it.

So was the question just out of interest? You haven't any problems?

As @ProDaveI'd guess these are cast concrete in stone effect. And that your chance of rebuilding 'as was' is tiny because there will be some damage. Even if new or reclaimed were available as substitutes then they would not match as batching or age will make them different colours or textures. So unless these are inherent to the house design, or you love them, you will need a much greater area replaced in new masonry. The repaired house must look as if it was original or the value will plummet. You may have to be very firm on this because insurance companies like collecting, not paying. The Loss Adjuster for your own insurer is likely to be helpful and professional on your behalf, especially as the other party will be paying. You need to see a formal proposal and they should have it approved by an independent professional and by building control. You'll get more help on here I'm sure. It is best to remain anonymous so don't post pictures of the whole house, but anything from outside showing the context (adjacent areas of wall) would help. Meanwhile, only if you want to answer, are you still living there or been moved out for safety and comfort?

I no longer buy Aldi or Lidl electric tools. They are low end diy and won't last. For a big, heavy job use only big names and not the entry ranges either. for diy and odd jobs, then the middle, established brands will suffice. I like all my Einhells but would be no good for a professional joiner, painter, gardener, whatever. If you don't mind coarseness then SF/TS/ B&Q/Wickes will be coarse and noisy but do it and keep doing it. My Worx circular saw has been a disappointment too. And I only buy branded accessories now, eg fixings and drill bits.

It appears to have horizontal beds and vertical joints similar to block size. could be plank faces I suppose, and the holes might be formwork tie holes rather than drainage. But that is heavy Engineering capital E. which is expensive and therefore less likely. @slystallone what is the purpose of the wall? eg supporting a cutout in a hillside between your land and a neighbour. do any other properties have similar? Is the wall vertical?

What do you mean by 'sort'? You can patch them in render or whatever is already on the wall, and/or paint the whole wall etc for appearance. But the vertical crack is probably structural, so releasing water pressure is the priority. Drill a few holes asap. The worst point for stress is about 1/3 up, but you can drill anywhere below that for immediate benefit. If you can drill even one hole, even only 12mm diameter or so, we will learn if the wall is solid, the thickness, whether water rushes out etc