saveasteading

That needs to be named after a scientist. True though. The point of I beams is a reduction in timber used, so the stiffness is lost as a result. Noggins sort it. It's from a factory so the timber will not have been exposed to the weather. Should be fine.

It was messy. Laid the first layer which was eps. pipes laid in exact positions,incl up to their end locations, which is important as they don't bend easily. Mark with black pen Cut with jigsaw or multitool. Insert pipes. Adjust as necessary Bag up lots of messy eps. Lay pir over the top. Around and over sounds OK to me. Cut boards close the the pipes and fill the gap with cutings or loose stuff. Cutting PIR is horrible. I borrowed a very good multitool with a blade that just stopped short of going through. Handsaw and jigsaw weren't good. I was doing this myself as I didn't expect the professionals to care about precision at cut outs. I was right... it was a huge rush and very approximate. It all gets covered in dpm so they get away with it.... usually.

Was £25/m2 with adhesive included. Very high quality ply construction with about 2mm oak veneer. Occasionally there can be fortunate opportunities.

No. They are very different. e.g. A skim of silicone can make a gap airtight but won't stop much sound transfer. Airtightness is flow of air, whereas noise is sound waves....vibration of air rather than flow.

Heat loss would be greater unless using the horrendously expensive pipes made for the purpose. Even then, indoors would be less wasteful of the heat. We used 2 layers of insulation and cut them into the lower one.

I find I have this, which someone else recorded. VID-20260921-WA0000.mp4

If your water supply pipes are highly insulated, including the benefit of being underground, then they are unlikely to freeze. My outdoor pipes (4) all survived the winter. One froze at the tap but that was due to 1m of exposed pipe and a brass tap. Depends on how cold and for how long of course. BUT I'm not guaranteeing it for you!

It's not as difficult as you seem to think, and AI seems to be telling rubbish. No 90°corners: it easily curves 90 or 180. Fitting with insulation above it is just wrong. You can set it on top then screed it, or put it in special floorboards. Or painstakingly depress it into the pir. Or use eps as a top layer as I think you could tread it in. What floor finish will you have? Ducts are not only unnecessary but counterproductive. The 'highways' as they seem to be called are both flow and return, so it is not all at peak temperature. Norwich is too far, but anyone in SSE is welcome to some of the huge amount of oversupply of pipes we were specified, I think 40 to 60m long. Not insulated, as they should not be except your short run from heat pump to manifolds.

It is covered with paint protection paper. You'll have to wait.

We all like an end of process report so here it is on the oak veneered engineered flooring. It went very well. We applied unibond sealer. Took away the hygrometer so that it wasn't a matter of discussion. The floor fitters turned up and fitted the floor. All looks good to me and the few small +/-5mm spots (under 3m straightedge) are not apparent so I think disappeared with the flexibility of the adhesive. Wastage was pretty bad. Fortunately the supplier still had some left) One en-suite is now timber instead of tiles....that's OK fortunately. The real wastage was partly the expected cuts at walls, but forensics (skip examination) showed a large number of mis-cuts. In diy we would have scraped off the adhesive and made use of it. Instead they stuck 2 fails back to back and buried it. That's despite site orders that wood and cardboard go to bonfire, but that is constantly ignored, and I think they wanted these hidden. I'm happy though. The timber came from Barham and Sons, and I recommend asking what bargains they might have. The regular full price stuff is very lovely but priced accordingly.

Permission to be outspoken? That's because they don't know much*. Plumbers dont generally know much about it. The ones who do claim to be expert mostly get the designs done via their merchant who in turn go to their supplier. The ones who rightly don't say they are skilled in it.... are too busy plumbing to go on courses. That leaves the ones who fancy the work and the grants, and can still charge a lot in an overheated market. * I have discussed with plenty. Some bluff and perhaps exaggerate the little they do know, but some honestly say what they know and what they don't. But others talk the buzz words without actually understanding. In such discussions they generally assume I am an ignorant punter, and so I let them do their thing for a while. What I want is them to be able to join the pipes up and commission it. A large part of the builder population also think that Engineers, Architects, Building Inspectors ....and so on.... don't know what they are doing and over/ wrongly design. (ditto me being the ignorant client)

Yes. No reason why not when the slope is shallow.

You were lucky , or your merchant is unusual in keeping treated timber covered. It's a good point. Due to receiving 60 large and wet joists which bent so much in drying that 60% were rejected, I looked into the storage. All the merchants keep their treated timber outside and uncovered "because it is treated for outdoor use". This is contrary to their industry guidance but saves warehousing. So do tell your supplier that it is important that it is dry and straight. Maybe get them to set it aside under cover, to bend there rather than on your site. At this time of year they should all be dry. On a positive note, I haven't checked numbers, but most timbers are critical for acceptable deflection before strength. It would be worth reminding the designer of this. Nobody is going to be nervous because your timber is moving up and down a few mm in wind or under snow.

Not "chartered"? I'm one of them. MICE or FICE. And CEng comes with it. 4 years uni and 4 years min real world training. I'd never use the word 'registered'. A huge element of gaining that professional status is communication and collaboration. That's why it seems strange to me that you say that is lacking. It's possible they are a technician rather than Chartered. Nothing wrong with that, but their experience may be limited, as may be their insurance. Unfortunately the term civil engineer is not protected, as witness the white vans. But would you? Probably 3 or 4 x the cost at minimum brief. It's all learning. Glad to hear it's moving along.

If it is listed then that is the case. Even if not lusted, it is heritage, and you are the current custodian. I have seen this disputed vehemently "my house, my decision", but it is the case. Or an axe.

That depends what you've asked for and they have offered. E.g there is a big difference if you ask simply what size of lintel or please visit site and design the lintel and draw up all working details with specification, as this may well be carried out by a highly competent contractor. Did you find out their stated qualifications. I'm not especially doubting it but interested.

Even more so. What do they call themselves? Change the name of course. Be precise with capitalisation. Then we can advise better without assumptions. Eg J. Bloggs, Structural Engineer and Building Technician, BSc MIStructE. It is a question their insurer must have asked.

Would you credit it? Facebook has been following this and I had an advert about shot-blasting.... no mention of course of listed buildings, AONB, planning or building reg's. But of course they will leave that to the survey, won't they?

I can find out. remind me in a week if I have not answered. But from a quick google I think it was this or very similar. A paint for the base then some 'character' added. I'm thinking this because the said they found it with a facebook guide too. Crème De La Crème from the self-priming Lazy Range) Frenchic Browning Wax

I like advice to not do anything. Thanks. Before tackling the rad, is there any check I could do other than probing for weaknesses? Maybe it is the tiniest pinhole..... there was such a tiny amount of water in the paint blister. Radiators are designed and manufactured crured to hold water after all. Release any air and see if it leaks and how much? Then patch with Snibbo. Or is that just delaying a bigger issue?

I've come cross adverts for shot-blasting old oak beams. These people seem to ignore that this could be illegal in a listed building, needs planning permission, have structural implications, and it's simply 'a bad thing'. So in case you are interested here is an alternative. Instead of blasting off the black paint and crud, along with a thickness of ancient timber, there is a paint which looks just like the original. Lightens the room up too. I could barely see that it wasn't the original wood even after being told. The cost is a fraction too, as is the disruption.

I'm a convert to these having just put 2 into a Spanish place for cooling, but also heating at over 4 x efficiency. So simple, not too noisy, and very direct and instant. €900 per biggish room so in a small house that could be a simple solution.

It has been there 30 years. Just a plastic tank with expansion and overheating release pipe, and a ball valve. The hot tank is newer, because the old one failed for some forgotten reason. It is in the airing cupboard next to the boiler. So it's easy to look at if info would be of use.

It's good to hear that being suggested in a vessel that has been so nerdy on these other matters to beyond what is economic, for so long. It's never that simple of course.... construction, door heights, and such. The reality is that when our oil burner failed during the winter, we could get a new boiler in a week but an ashp would not have been realistic. For a remodelling or upgrade though, I might settle for 50mm of insulation where possible, and ufh or big rads. With solar and batteries. And/or air to air units in some rooms, permeating elsewhere. BUT how many have the knowledge to think it all through? The heat loss is the same whether ashp or boiler so it's well worth considering. We just filled the oil tank. Gulp.

I think there is a base for this. Like a fence post socket but with a central rod that gets epoxied into the foundation. Your way will work but be a bit unsightly perhaps. You will need to keep the bottom of the timber dry.