saveasteading

Get several quotes. Some scaffolders have lots of kit and the timescale is secondary. Others have very little and effectively hire it to you. If you will need it to be adapted during the period, discuss that too. It's amazing how quickly they can do what they do when it is "included".

It will need flexible fabric over the crack. The movement can be extreme. But yes, this will work.

The vendors of this kit will do a layout. I liked that they called the cluster of flow and returns a "highway". On the ground floor, with 300 insulation, we put the big blue and red pipes ( from heat pump to manifolds,) inside the insulation. That was a fiddle. The highways are on the surface. ie in the screed.

If you do it to the rules you can relax. I can vouch for the benefit of a flue liner. We put a very basic wbs into a traditional fireplace maybe 30 years ago. There was no requirement or expectation then. The stove pipe goes through a baffle then to open brick chimney. It would have drawn better with the smaller duct, and we get mortar coming down as sand. As to the distance to timber, I think you have the options already. Putting in a direct air connection might be trickier and needs a stove designed for it, but they work very much better.

In terraces or semis, it has to be on the party wall, but otherwise it is often outside the gable end.

Apart from reduced water quantity I assume it fills the room better and is limited to the problem room.

Does anyone know if Ineos profits would remain in the UK or disappear to Monaco like its owner? 15 billion isn't enough to afford that he pays tax. Ratcliffe says the UK is a mess and something ought to be done about it. He had no suggestions at all other than allow oil, by his company of course and lower taxes for his like. There is some comfort in seeing how utterly miserable he looks in interviews and when Man U lose.

The collective knowledge is vast and varied, to which add the collective centuries of experience. The more you share, the better the advice. "A problem with the title". Can you share more?

For all duch questions we need more info. So for this one. What is the construction? Timber buards on joists? What distance to the ground? Have you a hatch or have you taken a board up? What do you see? To tell you where my instinct is heading, I'd be thinking of spreading a polythene sheet over the ground to keep the moisture below it. There will be a severe limit to what you can do and the sensible improvement. You can test the dampness of the concrete floors or for £100 hire a boring machine so you see, snd show us, the construction and if there is a dpm. Or assume there isn't, and apply a liquid dpm.

5%.

If there was no bco, the question I'd ask myself is " can this go on fire due to being hot"? Timber being obviously a combustible material creates confusion. If it is completely enclosed so that flame can't reach it, and there is no oxygen supply, then it cannot burn. But the risk is of someone damaging or penetrating the protective boarding. The insulated plasterboard is a great concern though. It will fail purely through heat,and then maybe some air can get in. Or eps of pir at a joint might be exposed directly. I think you must remove that area of insulation. The effect on insulation is minimal. BUT it is a BCO matter so you not only should do it but must do it. And most bcos I've discussed it with think timber burns even when encased, so perhaps change the timber to something else too, just within the zone distance stated. Metal stud? Multiple layers of cement board? If you must regain the insulation then squeeze in some rockwool if you can. Then you can relax in front of the fire. NB new burners have direct air intake from outside. Yours probably doesn't have that facility so will fail regs.

....Scotland and we see why the huge sums involved were made secret and only revealed in the 10 year release of documents from parliament. Harold Wilson demanded it was not revealed or "they" will vote for independence.

Honestly? Maybe it sounds good to a novice client. The bit about good design and management paying for itself can be true but is not often believed/ understood. Getting the money from MMC manufacturers concerns me. You recommend them and they give you commission? Several thousand You may well recommend one on true merit and being best for the project, but how do we know that? Then do they take it out of their margin, as a saved marketing cost? Or add it? If MMC is not the best approach, then you don't get commission. A perceived conflict of interest perhaps. Ditto Architect. I know too much, and perhaps it wil work for first time self builders. A question for interest only. How do you define MMC? In my business I used many of the principles (only when appropriate) alongside traditional methods. I wonder how you might include local contractors with the ideal skills but who didn't have a factory or sell kits. I watched Dragon's Den last night. How do you think you would fare?

Thanks. There shouldn't be condensation that needs to dry though. We design so that doesn't occur.

I'm still confused. Isn't this easy? Don't get it wet. If it happens then close off the outside, breather membrane inside. I didn't know what UBAKUS was. It says its for Architects and students. Implying that it isn't for builders, Engineers, Surveyors? Is there logic to this?

Sad to say I was part of that, working for a contractor to double all water storage at pits. Huge expense for very short lived infrastructure.. Scargill proofing we found out later it was called. Watch Simon Reeve series "Scandinavia" to see what Norway did instead and the national wealth amassed.

Excuse my ignorance. What is this 'drying time'? Use dry wood, keep the rain out.... If if isn't dry, then don't cling wrap it until it is?

The accepted spelling is fascia,( right back to Roman times I've just seen) with the other being a more recent spelling, mis-spelt often but not correct.

It's the number of outlets that controls the capacity. The gutter can be infinitely long as long as there are enough outlets. However, a long slope can pour dramatically into or over it if it is small.

I started to understand it then got lost. I must be as hbar as 2 reduced plancks.

An interesting risk assessment. As would be Mr Dibner's. Shouldnt the knot be a metre or so before the end?

Ask your builder to check with his insurer, what cover he has for designing a swimming pool. None obviously. And a warranty? Yes it could collapse or float when empty, or crack when full, unless designed as a water tank. 2 layers of mesh and careful detailing AND careful construction. The issue with stiff (which sounds good) ground is that any clay expands and contracts a lot seasonally, and with considerable force.

That's a load of .... dirty water. 450 is a very big pipe indeed. Bad luck but that's a fair decision.

Loved the crossed h which was new to me, so looked it up. I thought this was all a terribly clever joke but see it's a real thing . The explanation is beyond me but I assume can be summarised as the thickness of a shortened length of scaffold board.

That's most people's maximum. The attitude of steel and cladding workers used to be "if I was going to fall, it would have happened by now". They walked along rafters. They all knew of someone who had fallen though.. just the once. At that time I tried to use nets but HSE wouldn't allow it. It was 'a French idea' and not approved. To be fair, leading edge protection worked quite well. Adding a handrail was innovation. MEWPS hadn't been around long either. I've come across a site photo, from the 80s, of steel erection with ladders at 5.5m. That was normal and approved.