saveasteading

Can it run over the top?

I said I'm out so should maintain that. Briely then, in the retaining wall picture the base is fixed so doesn't rotate. The top deflects outward, so the inner face is in tension.. However the pc retaining wall does not apply acc to the orangy sketch All that load goes onto the skinny columns which fall over.

Easiest with threaded rod and epoxy. Presumably there is a datum for each wall that is simply measured off. Alternatively use strings or fancier laser type stuff. The bolts are measured as a cluster relative to that.* For height use steel shims set to the height required. I preferred to set sacrificial nuts on the bolts, lowered to the level, thus typically four bolts support the column until it is grouted underneath. Happy to expand if you explain which bits in particular. Perhaps on a new thread. * although skilled in theodolites etc, I prefer lines and tape measures. It also means that the building usually has an edge beam by that stage, so it's easy access and to mark out. If the perimeter is built then it's even simpler.

Sounds best to me. Safer as no long trailing cables. Plus I recall once having power provided at a box 40m from the project, 110v transformers there then yellow cables to the building, and drills were barely turning.

Your logistics is back to front. The reinforcement works best in tension, so centrally or inside. The reason I suggested block is for construction and avoiding shuttering. Try cavity 2 x 100. Infill slowly with concrete if you want. Sorry. I see you're playing. I will duck out now. Just be sure never to let children play in there, and knock it down before passing on the property.

No that's wrong. 16mm I might believe. You need to get expert help and I can't condone your friend trying to guess stuff that is complex. Actual numbers are rather important.

The need for intumescent materials can be overstated. Plasterboard (e.g) can be much simpler and cheaper.

It is the "sense check" first, and proofs following if needed. Exposure to lots of projects tells us how components react and what size to expect. Do we inherently understand triangulation though? Or learn it either in lectures or handling on site, or both.

No. Nature will clean it.

I'd never heard of this despite building 300+ steel buildings, so thanks fof widening my awareness. The website is vague about why it is supposedly so good , and even what the coating is made of. Can one if you tell me briefly? That's for a window sills manufacturer to decide isn't it? It might depend on the folds and how much the coating stretches.

I've designed and site worked on loads of such walls, for bridges, reservoirs etc. They are serious engineering with the shuttering and supports costing more than the concrete. The sideways load from wet concrete is huge. You will also need 2 layers of reinforcement. And tying them to your superstructure, which holds up the other? Blockwork is more appealing. Is there a reason why you fancy or need concrete walls? If it's a grain store, the grain acts like a fluid, trying to knock your wall over.

To my mind the building in question fails this on simple inspection. What if one of those columns moves...the building is inherently precarious. We may move to discussing disproportionate collapse , and Limit State Design. And to rely on damping is playing games on such a huge building. Of course we must experiment, but test it first and overdesign if anything. Interesting to read that the steel fabricators made changes without consultation. On entering the portal frame construction world, i was shocked to see portal frame buildings being erected on foundation bolts that moved to wherever the steel bases were. These are in cones and are grouted up after. The tolerances were huge: 30mm typically? So when I had control I had all bolts cast in solid, in the right position to a few mm, and heights likewise. Concretors hated having to get it right, so I became an early adopter of epoxy fixing: drilling into solid concrete. The steel went up beautifully thereafter. Perhaps the ridges were 30mm out as @Gus Pottersuggests, but that is trivial in a 30m span. A squarely lined up frame goes up much better too and there a lot of bolt holes to line up.

Hard pore corn.

Anybody else seen a garage where the jacked vehicles clashed with a roof frame, so the garage cut the bottom angle out? It's amazing it stands up, but one day it will fail....and no insurance.

found it. Rawlplug M8 x 50 Rawlnut, Flexi-plug Rawl P/No. 09-533 RNT-M8/50 SCREWS NOT INCLUDED £1 each... go on spend £5 Or a big bag at screwfix. Suddenly it doesn't seem so exotic and wise. Rawlplug Rawlnut Flexiplug Lightweight Fixings 10mm x 40mm 50 Pack (281VC) Either these or put something solid on the underside, steel or ply, for the tek screws to bite.

apologies. yes specifics for the op. Your info of building on windows is added to my cynicism bank, though, thanks for the pic.

ouch. i confess that i didnt know this happened. At least the structure wont fail, just the facade. I'd expect somerhing like this image, pehaps without the insulation. I thought this was standard. You might find yours as a plate about 10mm to 20mm behind the mortar face. Or have one brick gently removed for inspection behind it. Repointing. The cracks may close a little when the ground becomes damp again, esp on clay. So don't fill the cracks until springtime. Do you know what the ground is? Clay, sand whatever How far are any hedges or trees from the front right corner?

I've been to the Lindab factory. Very impressive quality and processes. Robots drive around carrying stuff. Hardly a person to be seen. They will have a robot making these for a few Euros, so you can stop feeling guilty. Seriously, the most impressive thing for me was the outlets. They are made in saddleback shape by bending the plate material in both directions simultaneously. I imagined whatever silent scream steel molecules make. In use, because the outlets are the scoop shape, they carry very much more water away than a standard rectangular outlet, hence the gutter doesn't fill so much.

I sympathise. the app is pretty good though in doing this for you as an attachment from a smart phone. Otherwise there are clever bods on here. The garage is indeed awful. Built by idiots who get away with it because it's 'only' a garage. What is the plan? It is much easier than it would be with the house. a couple of acrow props to support the roof. take out the bricks and the door, insert lintel and rebuild. Maybe the door can even stay? Re the house, 98% there is a good and working lintel. In the 60s it wouldn't be a sophisticated catnic type. I can't right now think of the likeliest method, but it wouldn't be to sit the wall on the window.

There is a bigger option, but the rectangular ones are bigger yet, and will be easier to fix / look better?

That's not big. Not what i would use. It will need a fair slope, a good outlet and a means of avoiding splashing st the entry.

No it is very unlikely a lintel has failed. Why does the garage need a new liintel? It's easy during construction. It simply lifts into position on the brick wall. It's difficult to change one as all the wall and roof load needs supporting. Who is telling you there is no lintel or it has failed? Not experts i presume.

There are screws with expanding rubber tubes that will grip when tightened. Might still stress the sheeting but less likely to break it.

f there was no lintel it would have fallen down a long time ago. 3mm is usually not a concern. Buildings move. I'd not be worrying. You have recorded it. Now wait for the winter and see if it gets better or worse. Do NOT fill the gaps or they may stress if there is movement back again. Moral: mortar should always be weaker than the bricks.

At the very worst, it will all be consumed by bugs over the centuries to come. No worse than many an old campsite where toilet contents were buried. Does it even need to be destroyed? Cover off, drag in the top few courses of brick, infill. Then the fact of its existence is there if anyone tries to build there in the distant future. Of course the pipes in and out and the soakaway will remain, or are there intentions for these?