saveasteading

It won't open for me. Anyway, between us we have found a few interpretations. Authorities can't make up their own rules so these are their interpretation and could be argued with. I haven't done the important thing of looking at the actual regulations. It's the sort of issue that tempts one to just do it, which is generally a bad premise. By which I mean that the OP intends to make sensible improvements but what if the bco refuses or demands something else? And yet, it would be possible to cause harm and that should be controlled.

Another thought. You can buy netting again a BM. We havd some blue kicking around. I think it is to keep debris contained. It's not expensive. Debris netting,: that's it. You could lay this across the joists, tucking down the sides and stapling. Then any wool material would stay put permanently.

I don't think that's right. RdSAP is for older buildings with no drawings or tests. That isn't what is being discussed, unless I'm misinterpreting. from the briefest look at the method, it is for where drawings are not available. Even then there will be different efforts made. The £100 fee guy won't want to put any thought into it, but the thorough one can. With that logic a passivhaus wouldn't get a better sap than others.

I think we could easily argue against this being required improvement to regs. 1. Not 25% of the thermal envelope. 2. The concrete slab below is part of the thermal envelope, not this raised floor. It's a good idea to do it though.

I'd be very interested if you can spare the time and trauma. You could save many another person these issues. Was uours standing seam? Horrible to detail hence I never used it. We had steel standing seam as an option in brochures, because ig was expected, but it was easy to talk clients out of it. In my opinion, a lot of Architects propose it based on looks, and some perfect looking pictures in brochures. And zinc... traditional material that weathers to dull, and they think looks like on a church or Georgian roof. I.e looks nice in theory. But these are a skin onto board, and font oilcan: not spanning as standing seam.

Most need detailed and workable drawings, as are not designers. Some mayy have links to manufacturers who may assist. And some who will not designers will at least advise on foreseeable issues. Who is going to decide the fundamental issue of what principles to work to? Metal, profiled metal, fibreglass/membrane or whatever?

I would maintain the air gap, however draughty, unless this was seriously analysed as a whole. Ang PIR is OK. Celotex us a trade name which became the generic term. The name has been disappeared because of their part in Grenfell. J belive ig us now called sopratherm so you may want to bear that in mind. Not that kingspan is clean either. Recticel and Unilin appear to be blameless. I got good prices from 'Seconds' but slightly better from the local merchant. It is difficult to fit it snuggly. Either tight or with gaps. Ii you had 100mm ice say 50mm pir and 50mm rockwool bat. So i think you should try rockwool bat/slab before buying lots... it must fit snugly for performance and to stay put. Even 50mm would help a lot. I don't think you have to but it is wise.

We have to juggle that with the vat reclaim.

Signed off and immediately moved in?

The problems I'd have would be 1. Getting elected. 2 following the party line. 3. Too pragmatic: the newspapers and Web don't want to be told that it isn't simple and needs a middle course.

Thanks, I've looked back and I'd even commented but forgotten. But the basic problem was water getting in at details? Roofs are difficult yet so crucial. I've always had a principle of designing to work well and prettiness comes second. On the few occasions when a client, led by their architect, has prevailed in insisting on internal gutters or too slow a gradient, I've increased the price for lots of design time, site scrutiny and especially extra downpipes and overflows. Even then there has been the occasional issue, usually workmanship related. Good roofers are rare too, as it's a horrible job and often out of sight. I've a childish but effective protocol. Imagine a raindrop landing. Where does it go? Then ditto a bottle or bucket of water. What if the wind blows it up the slope or off the side? In life too, a leak increases because one poor screw fixing or joint causes a stream towards it... it's a strange phenomenon, a bit like magnetism, but I think is water adhering to other water and all running to the leak. (I can say this because I nearly always had to personally find any leak.. roofers couldn't. It was usually one screw bodged with mastic, or a bad gutter joint.)( say 300,000m2 of roof and 20 leaks) My experience is only in profiled cladding which architects don't tend to like. Twice used a membrane type and one worked, the other , by a 'specialist' was a mess. Moral. Keep it simple and not too flat. The product should have standard details. Big , branded gutters. At least 2 downpipes pref not at ends. Get that water off thd roof and away. Doubt everything and keep asking questions.

It's a good idea to make a ramp if you can. We get older, have injuries or so do relatives or friends.

I vaguely remember being told that 8-10 turns of tape was enough, and that it worked in the distant past. Perhaps manufacturing tolerances have changed. Or perhaps the added bit of gunge was doing the job. But agreed, it takes 22 and still turns on, so I do that. But a tiny turn back to square doesn't seem to have been a problem...yet.

What was the problem?

So do you mean echo within the room rather than noise from above? That wouldn't be a resilient bar solution. Are you predicting this will be an issue or have you grounds for concern?

Is there truth, as I've had it said, that you can't turn it back again if it's not sitting quite right? I thought the idea was that the fibres expand when the pressure reaches them. And I have turned some back without problems.

I don't recall the demo notice being that complex. It was online and a matter of fact thing. I'd a notice of intent so that tge authorities were aware, and might have a lot. Insurance and bco are a different matter. Demolition should be seen as dismantling, to minimise risk. It is risky because things can move suddenly and collapse. Are you competent to this as diy? What is the construction? You need insurance. Also you should write up a method statement and risk assessment. If you can't write it down, you haven't thought it through enough. It's not necessarily formal: Put a fence round it and tell the neighbours, the children to keep out, and lock the dog indoors. How to do it How do you stop it falling over. Access and working at height safely Never stand under it Safety wear. Etc

The same principles apply but you already have the advantage of lots of density. What can you hear at present that you want cut out? Footsteps, voices, thumping bass?

What centres are the joists? Looking at different products you might find one that squeezes in neatly. eg, a 1200 roll cuts into 3 x 400 with a saw before unwrapping. Most rockwool is less itchy than most fg.

Slate and tiled roofs let water in but then it stops at the underlapping slate and gradually goes down to the gutter. If there is an underfloor, then that can catch any rogue drips that escape. That looks a decent job, but at your vent i suspect that water can blow up over the top or side of the zinc and has nothing under it. Or some tiny gap where the slates are cut. It would be necessary to take the ridge off to see how far the metal goes.. I think it should go all the way to the apex OR have another overlapping piece to intercept it. And wider too, hidden under the top slate. Wind is the likely culprit. Gusts generally last just a few seconds, firing water upwards, but then releasing it. Hence a longer flashing might suffice. mastic exists for flues but that should not be very hot there. It is nit very flexible so won't last long.Try a local stove shop. There are special and foolproof rubber flashings for flues througb metal roofs but they are ugly and not appropriate to your lovely roof.

Could you explain please? Do you want comparisons of materials, or decibel reduction numbers or something else. The simple answer is "very".

We need to extend our cover. Bug fif how long? At some stage we aren't constructing, but finishing. Then perhaps partially occupying, then completing externals. I really don't know how long to extend ( risk is obv reducing but Idont feel that the premium is) Any advice?

As another discussion... on some projects that man would need a helmet and thus have to use a lower step. And be on a 400mm platform not a ladder. Myself? I'd approve of bump caps for boarding, they really work if a board drops.

No. With a prescription or if the qualified pharmacist prescribes it. You can even only buy ibuprofen and paracetamol in pharmacies.

Should say specialists. I noticed that there is move from unknown or little known badges towards the big names. In the typical aircon units (one out, one in) were Hitachi, mitsububishi, Haier, despite being twice the price. Also Bosch. And re balcony solar, the domestic plugs in Spain are reversible and not well-fitting.