saveasteading

I started to understand it then got lost. I must be as hbar as 2 reduced plancks.

An interesting risk assessment. As would be Mr Dibner's. Shouldnt the knot be a metre or so before the end?

Ask your builder to check with his insurer, what cover he has for designing a swimming pool. None obviously. And a warranty? Yes it could collapse or float when empty, or crack when full, unless designed as a water tank. 2 layers of mesh and careful detailing AND careful construction. The issue with stiff (which sounds good) ground is that any clay expands and contracts a lot seasonally, and with considerable force.

That's a load of .... dirty water. 450 is a very big pipe indeed. Bad luck but that's a fair decision.

Loved the crossed h which was new to me, so looked it up. I thought this was all a terribly clever joke but see it's a real thing . The explanation is beyond me but I assume can be summarised as the thickness of a shortened length of scaffold board.

That's most people's maximum. The attitude of steel and cladding workers used to be "if I was going to fall, it would have happened by now". They walked along rafters. They all knew of someone who had fallen though.. just the once. At that time I tried to use nets but HSE wouldn't allow it. It was 'a French idea' and not approved. To be fair, leading edge protection worked quite well. Adding a handrail was innovation. MEWPS hadn't been around long either. I've come across a site photo, from the 80s, of steel erection with ladders at 5.5m. That was normal and approved.

I'm facinated. You abseiled down the slope? And if you fell through?

And the gutter will probably ( can be) be bigger than shown. That looks small and far too shallow..... gutters seldom go in level or to a steady fall, so any dip or rise severely reduces capacity.

All good advice. It's probably not asbestos fibres but assume it is, so don't brush it. I'd combine the treatments. In dry conditions, coat the area with a bonding agent to kill dust. Then inject/trowel in CT1. But these panels can move quite a lot so then stick tape over it. Denso tape is primitive yet effective... but I've no idea how long it will last in sun. Tyvek tape may be worth a try... it is very sticky ( by brand, not a 'similar' make). That seems to be along the crown (ridge) so that is lucky. If you can obtain a section of the same profile you could overplate it. Steel, zinc, lead, or a piece of rooflight, and stick it on.

It's most likely dampness through the floor but you've checked that....so driving through some weakness.. under the door, through the wall. The simplest answer is much more ventilation. But first walk all round it and go into it during heavy rain. You'll often find a drip or dribble.

In her defence... I have some that work well after the 10 years or more since installation, some that no longer click but screw out, and some that are permanently up. Some of these appear to simply be rubbish products. I'd suggest only buying well known brands or from a plumbers' merchant rather than the other well known outlets.

No. Any big brand tape will be good. They cost £4, work well, fit in your pocket and it doesn't matter much when it disappears or you drop it.

Agreed. This needs prior discussion with all your teams to agree what reasonable means.

My point is that most people don't know that. Or that tapes come in 3 degrees of accuracy and some are beyond that and just wrong.

That's someone who doesn't understand numbers. Slide rule use proved useful in Engineering as it was all approximate and required the undersranding of significant figures. Btw have you noticed the "loose" end on a steel measuring tape? I don't usually worry about using it " correctly" but there is a variable straight away.

I think you have to change your expectations or nothing will suit. I don't know when I last used a decimal mm in construction. I appreciate it may be a mindset and things like cutlery laid approximately can be an issue. I'd be interested to know what measurement would have been acceptable 1mm? 0.5mm? Measuring tapes aren't even that accurate. pencils get thicker as you draw a line. Saw blades have thicknesses, materials are variable, hands are not machines. There will be many worse discrepancies in your house should you choose to look for them. Nobody else will notice.

Am I misunderstanding? Adaptation involves turning off unused lights, putting a jumper on in the cold weather. Not doing the dishes under a hot running tap. Reuse, repair and recycle. Don't buy what you don't need. They're easy and have less than zero cost. Or in trump maths 200% reduction. Then comes not having so many cars, reducing plane travel. It's back to the 1950s basically and adjusting expectation, but with the benefit of greener energy. And is much cheaper than new every time. It's just not what people, and big business 0 want.

I'd be nervous too, and measuring has been my life. The two decimal places is false and unnecessary precision. 7mm difference is perfectly normal. But what if the shape isn't quite square? Actually it can't be with that 7mm. A proper template would tell if all the corners were 90 degrees. OR they would show diagonal distances as checks I think I'd be telling them it's their job to measure and get it right... which clearly they aren't comfortable with. ... which puts their measuring skill in doubt. And point out the missing dimension.

I don't understand that, perhaps because I've never built domestic buildings as business. Surely they detail what level of cover there is whether limited at 10k or 500k? e.g. at extreme: If a pile fails and a building becomes worthless isn't a warranty for the whole cost necessary? Or is the client buying limited insurance and it isn't a contractor warranty at all. What level of cover, and at what cost are these?

My main point is that some consultants recommend all that stuff and heavy penalties, and that I as a contractor would regard that as increased risk, and a legalistic client, and probably increase the tender sum. I've explained that to some clients, (business people), who were happy to negotiate a happy medium. Also to some consultants who admitted that they hadn't thought of that.

Agreed. And we are helping fill these potholes with free reclaimed hardcore.

A good point. But how many domestic subcontractors will be worth suing? Any warranty or insurance has a cost somewhere. You might find that Nudura provide a warranty of some sort though, being the main element, but I'd expect it to be limited. Ditto a big window supplier.

In a nearby worktop company's yard I saw a rack of large offcuts, broken slabs and some with holes for sinks. A high risk business. Although maybe that was years' worth.

That's a good point. We see it in denailing... nails bend but screws often snap. So I withdraw my 'use screws' suggestion unless there is no other option, and then use big ones and lots. That doesn't sound like a formal spec does it?

Welcome and good luck. JCT is a well designed contract that is designed to be 'fair and equitable' to both parties. Avoid making any changes to it. Changes shift risk and deserve additions to the contract sum. You shouldn't need a solicitor and I worry about what they might think they add to the process. A very experienced QS, Architect or SE yes. The contract does require admin throughout the construction process, for which you should plan. If either party wants any change then it needs recording, with time and cost consequences. If you use the clause for time damages then be aware that the contractor doesn't want to lose that money per week over-run. So what sum is fair? Some solicitors and surveyors think it's clever to put in a large penalty sum. The contractor will add some allowance to counter this, and you pay this within the process even if it finishes on time. Then they will rightly record every change and major weather event to extend the programme. As to warranties? That would have a value if selling on. I can't see the value to you. Why does your advisor say its worth considering?