saveasteading

All the above. Every site is different. Ducts and talking to real people (eventually) at the facilities companies. You can work for a while with a generator and bowser. Or even bringing in a few containers of water every day. Until the generator gets stolen. It is more difficult than you think. But you must become the expert.

Doubtful. £500 for the gravel. Add pipes, membrane, digger, and the earth has to be taken away. Anyway, how deep and where would you take a drainpipe?

If you use bathroom drain pipes, then you can join them with junctions and bends, either down to a drain or angled across the wall.

that could be changed very readily if there was the will.

Let's have a guess that it needs a steel beam on 2 new steel posts on new concrete foundations, then lots of making good. £10k?? Structural Engineer, Building regulations, mess and disruption (living elsewhere?)

One of the nicest things a client said to me ...we were a subcontractor to them but with design input, they being a bigger contractor, was..... "you are not always the best price but always the best value." He retired. His successor use someone cheaper and handed on some of my suggestions. They went bust. Sometimes expertise is doing simple things well. Such relationships are more difficult to find on self build, because you don't know each other. Fundamentally though the real expert may not have to charge more, because it's easy for them.

I wish, but don't think. No party politics here, but we know a lot of people like to hear that everything is somebody else's fault and easily sorted.

If you tell the public the whole, realistic story you don't get elected.

Exactly so. The former would cost £10k for a job half done. And is it your land? Holes £500. A heavy duty core drill with diamond core cutter can be hired for £150 or so. You could join your outlet pipes up to drain away tidily, or make it a natural water feature of moss, slime and ivy.

A professionally designed wall would have drainage behind it including at the base, so that water never builds up. Yours seems to be reasonably stable considering, so applying the various methods above is likely to suffice

The 'Home Counties'. Bedfordshire, Oxfordshire etc. Now that HS2 isn't tunneling under to ease the pain of the locals in the only part of the UK where here are such considerations, , that would be an ideal place for wind turbines. I'm sure the locals won't object if it is for the general good. If they took extras it would feed London where there is obviously a need. Made at Ardersier using wind power, and shipped down. An alternative of course would be a tariff for power heading across the border... it is industry after all.

That's amusing but unfair. A skilled professional often makes it look simple.

@markcand I posted much the same same simultaneously.

If water gushes out you are relieving the pressure. The problem you will have is a temporary flow of water which should later slow. If it dribbles out ditto, but then we know the issue is less severe. Is the wall poured concrete or block? That is something you'll find soon enough in trying to drill. You appear to have a dam rather than a retaining wall. If it is properly designed in concrete then I would have expected a drainage system. So it's more likely a bit diy. If it is blockwork then any builder can drill holes. If it is concrete then they can hire a core drill. There are other Engineers on here so second opinions will be welcome, including whether you should have a consulting Civil or Stuctural Engineer look into it.

So was the question just out of interest? You haven't any problems?

As @ProDaveI'd guess these are cast concrete in stone effect. And that your chance of rebuilding 'as was' is tiny because there will be some damage. Even if new or reclaimed were available as substitutes then they would not match as batching or age will make them different colours or textures. So unless these are inherent to the house design, or you love them, you will need a much greater area replaced in new masonry. The repaired house must look as if it was original or the value will plummet. You may have to be very firm on this because insurance companies like collecting, not paying. The Loss Adjuster for your own insurer is likely to be helpful and professional on your behalf, especially as the other party will be paying. You need to see a formal proposal and they should have it approved by an independent professional and by building control. You'll get more help on here I'm sure. It is best to remain anonymous so don't post pictures of the whole house, but anything from outside showing the context (adjacent areas of wall) would help. Meanwhile, only if you want to answer, are you still living there or been moved out for safety and comfort?

I no longer buy Aldi or Lidl electric tools. They are low end diy and won't last. For a big, heavy job use only big names and not the entry ranges either. for diy and odd jobs, then the middle, established brands will suffice. I like all my Einhells but would be no good for a professional joiner, painter, gardener, whatever. If you don't mind coarseness then SF/TS/ B&Q/Wickes will be coarse and noisy but do it and keep doing it. My Worx circular saw has been a disappointment too. And I only buy branded accessories now, eg fixings and drill bits.

It appears to have horizontal beds and vertical joints similar to block size. could be plank faces I suppose, and the holes might be formwork tie holes rather than drainage. But that is heavy Engineering capital E. which is expensive and therefore less likely. @slystallone what is the purpose of the wall? eg supporting a cutout in a hillside between your land and a neighbour. do any other properties have similar? Is the wall vertical?

What do you mean by 'sort'? You can patch them in render or whatever is already on the wall, and/or paint the whole wall etc for appearance. But the vertical crack is probably structural, so releasing water pressure is the priority. Drill a few holes asap. The worst point for stress is about 1/3 up, but you can drill anywhere below that for immediate benefit. If you can drill even one hole, even only 12mm diameter or so, we will learn if the wall is solid, the thickness, whether water rushes out etc

when you remove a tree the demand for water is removed and clay may expand again. so bear that in mind. it is going to move again.

Anything that is 'not quite right' can be surprisingly expensive to adapt or to remedy. It is often easier and cheaper to remove an extension and start again, than to adapt an adaptation. the disruption in removing the yellow wall would be significant.

That is a blockwork wall with render so its surprising it is resisting the water so well. I'd suggest drilling new holes that are the perfect size to accept a standard plastic pipe hammered through to the other side. 40mm dia or so? then you might need to seal any gap so that the water uses the pipe. perhaps at 1m or or 1.5m or so centres and 300mm ish off the ground. If the new pipes extend about 150mm they will spout or dribble clear of the wall. so if the wall is 150mm thick use 300mm lengths of pipe. Through the blocks would be the tidiest job as drilling though the beds might open up more cracks. This will also relieve lots of pressure and the wall is likelier to stay put. where the water goes next is up to you.

To my surprise that seems to be the case. Why? I can only assume that cut pipes need joining fittings anyway so it becomes a standard detail.

They can object, but must give reasons that link to planning policy. They don't get a vote or veto.

As above. It will dry. Steel stops rusting when it is dry. Timber. Will dry. Just check fir severe warping. Insulation. Cavity stuff should dry out. Once you get a roof on you'll be surprised how quickly it all dries. Lots of airflow is much more efficient than machines.