saveasteading

That's what I'm thinking. There's a separate header for the hot water system, with a crook overflow/ pressure release. So perhaps the plumbing required is to bypass the tanks, then take the redundant stuff out. Speaking to a plumber tomorrow. Meanwhile, Do I apply a dab of LS-X or a great big gob of it? Any other practical tips eg holding it in place?

They used to be, just a few years ago, very noisy. You should minimise the distance from the house as heat is lost along the pipe unless you have stunning insulation.

Corrugated panels have bending capacity in the long direction and next to none across the width. So they must be supported by battens across the panels.

That aluminium angle runs along both sides as a strengthener. You can see it on the left as well. That 'hole' is in a vertical plastic strut to accommodate it.

A general picture. I had problems with this set up 3 times in the last year. This is a pair of tanks with one inlet, and a link pipe, due to the need to raise it combined with limited headroom. 1. The ballcock wasn't stopping so I changed it. I stupidly should have realised that the leak needed to be found as well. This worked fine for some months. 2. Same drip because any leak (I now realise) reaches the gantry and finds the low point. I had been looking in the wrong area. This was from an overflow pipe. It clearly had never been tightened up, so had been a risk for 25 years. Sorted. Why it was filling too high I cannot remember. 3. The other overflow. Same...completely unsealed. Again this was sorted and the water ceased. This was difficult to find because the drip was coming from exactly where the new leak is....running along that angle strengthener. Maybe the current leak was also happening on a lesser scale or intermittently. From what I can see, The overflows are not leaking. I'm a bit worried that the tanks are failing through age. They are a bit bulgy at the angle stiffeners. We maybe don't need these tanks any longer. Wc are now all low flush. The bath is seldom used. Water pressure is higher I think.

There is a leak onto the posh dining table. I think I have established the problem. There is a pair of linked header tanks above and I can see the leak. It is a constant flow, spreading over the support gantry, then dripping, maybe every 30 seconds. For now there is a basin to catch the drips in the attic and the feed is turned off. And have moved the table. The tanks went in when we converted this building, decades ago. Done by a plumber. Can I sensibly fix this with LS-X ? Temporarily/ permanently. Or something better? Photos here. I may post some background history just in case it is relevant.

Mouse 2 days. Rat 7 days.

If there are window vent holes, its easy to slide one or more open or closed. It's years since I did one. Do they still ask what number you are aiming for?

A slight bend or twist will straighten as you fix it progressively. Ie start at the middle and work outwards. Does it need to be 6m long or will 2 x3m be acceptable? Only for a 2x2, but I've had a 90° twist disappear using screws at 1200cc. You should probably screw at 600cc. Def choose a bit. It is an attraction of Wickes. You can rummage.

Why not? Tidiness is good. Easy to find all the pipes in time of need, and then to expose and work on the dodgy one. Drawings disappear, but the services route can be guessed, then confirmed with a detector. Much reduced risk of damage through careless digging, planting etc. Reduced digging and no crossovers. Don't forget the marker tape, which isn't shown on the drawing. It comes in huge rolls so we probably all have lots left in the shed.

Agreed, as the easy and elegant solution. 2 outlets halves the depth, roughly speaking. Also, If the gutter is level then the ends are not the best places. A single outlet would be best at the middle, or a pair at third points, or near to that if avoiding a window.. The water has far less distance to travel and the area of roof being carried at anypoint is much reduced. You might even add a weir overflow at an end...as an overflow outside is much better than inside. Plus a well designed outlet is wider than the downpipe, and the increased flow is dramatic....check that your people have not simply joined 2 rectangles together. Do not fit leaf guards. Let them come down the pipe and have an open gully at the bottom. All your issues can be resolved one by one. A warranty is not what you want...you simply want it sorted.

Without reading back. Knowing nothing about your roof. Not many architects will be expert in roof detailing. Some roofers are remarkably ignorant of how water flows. They get away with it because people don't like heights. So you've been unlucky but are not to blame. I'd be surprised if you need a reroof. You need a proper expert. A contractor who is looking to help, not to get a big job. Where to start? The local press advertising,. But only one in 5 will be any good. Ask at the local roofers' merchants. Beware, they only recommended customers...you want a long established one. Pictures?

A small extension would allow wind to whip over the surface and suck out air, purging the pipes. What about a chimney spinner or "granny" ? Modern ones spin on ball-bearing silently. But I'd think of a way to vent before the house, at that cover. Bigger holes or a pipe. But. Air test first. Remember the builder is keen for it to pass. There are ways to fiddle it.

That looks like it. It will be full of concrete so very heavy. 35kg or so?

As a professional designer and contractor I preferred the English way of being able to start quickly and sort details out as it proceeded. BUT I think the Scottish requirement for full details is the better idea in regards to quality and certainty. It also allows time to debate or resolve any issue with the BCO, and thus no delays or arguments once it is all running. The main difference in conversions is that the Scottish regulations allow pragmatism. 'As far as reasonably practicable' is stated a lot. For example we proposed leaving some attractive masonry exposed internally, whereas strict interpretation required it being insulated and boarded over. The bco was in full agreement and it was a verbal agreement. You appear to be doing new-build. The same apples to, I think, a lesser extent.

This is a vague memory: I think the handle is basically a hooked rod and there is space around the hole for it to get purchase. 2 hooks lift it and get a block under, then do the other end. It is probably badlu gummed up. i've looked online and they seem to be mostly for light weight covers. and these hooks look too long. Maybe ask at a specialist drainage merchant. JDP etc.

Test would have spotted the leak. It's such an easy thing too, especially in sections as the work progresses. Not so easy with the apprentice balancing 3m above the roof.

Won't do the windows much good either. As there is scaffolding it would be easy to place a model hawk there. I have tried a plastic owl, full sized, with rotating head, which fooled humans but not birds.. but for £15 it might be worth a try. I have heard that a black silhouette of a hawk works better, and would move in the wind if hung in front of the window. Then it needs to be moved occasionally.

Is there a Grrrr/ annoyed icon? That is very unfair and reflects badly on the architect. Perhaps that's how he thinks and works, so assumes everyone is the same, or he hasn't the knowledge to discuss costs. after all the client pays it all so he isn't bothered. As a contractor I was always pleased to have zero extras. Partly as pride, and partly because a client can have no perception of being overcharged. It helps towards repeat business too. Also though because changes are a pain. They have to be recorded and clarified formally , then drawings and schedules altered and circulated. Then the cost difference has to be calculated, and there is always some increased risk. If only clients didn't change their minds.

So we are back to the @ProDavescenario. The gases will go out of the vent but also towards the house so the joint seals must be checked. I've had some very poor quality seals at times, from very cheap pipes (I've also had great ones cheap). The rubbers were hard and fitting was difficult without forcing. So it is a likely source...it could be tight enough to keep water inside but allow gas through,, especially under pressure. Is it safe to leave one of the outdoor covers off as a interim trial to vent the drain? It will also encourage a permanent draught. As a positive, digester thanks settle down after a while. But that is all the more reason to get it sorted now, before the nuisance reduces for a while.

The smell will be created within the tank. That should vent out of the pipe you describe, but imagine a great burp from the depths ...it will go back up the drain as well as the vent. Is there a manhole between the tank and the house? if that has air holes then that might help. But bottom line is that the pipes in the house should not release any smell. Ahhh. also check that all basin, bath and shower drains have water in the trap.

I would say no too. However much you trust the person you are dealing with, inevitably it will be delegated. Mess, compaction and the risk that they don't get round to clearing it when you want / properly / ever. And who will agree the before / after condition and what happens if you aren't content. If they offer £500 then that may be another matter. The cost to them of a grab lorry twice would be more. Will your insurance will cover it? I doubt they would approve. Sorry but....You have taken advice from industry experts is the easy response....

Including the vent pipe from the tank?

@Indy you don't know what you don't know....yet. ie there are risks beyond your imagination. I suggest you accept that there is a cost for reducing these. 10% to 20%? That can be an industry professional to assist you, or an established builder with a good reputation and history.. Either has a cost to you, in fees or overheads.

A smell in a cupboard suggests a leaking junction, so maybe all the pipe connections are suspect. Where does the drainage go? Sewer or treatment tank?