saveasteading

Do it then reverse the spirit level. They are often inaccurate. If you get the same bubble position then you have confirmed the accuracy. If it is a different position then the average applies. a 2p coin is about 2mm thick.

I have engineered flooring that has generally stayed flat but one are has developed a small bulge 10 years later. So, yes it needs allowance for expansion. I had a 'disaster' with non-engineered glued down parquet. I laid it with a 12mm cork surround and it expanded, and made a foot high bulge in the middle. Re-laid with 24mm cork surround....and it shrank leaving gaps all over the place. In any case, the edge of the wood needs protection at the edge into the doorway, especially if cut, so a simple T insert threshold is advisable.

Having a precise specification from UK Power for a new 3 phase supply, I was surprised to see so many different sizes being available, and it is not easy or quick to compare sources. Many are slightly smaller which seems very odd. w600 xH1100 X d300 is the requirement and here is one such. It seems expensive for what it is, and such a standard unit. Any suggestions please? Free Standing GRP Electric Meter Box Green – W600 x H1100 x D300mm, GRP Cabinet , GRP Kiosk £691.20 Incl. VAT

Tent pegs is plenty.but so should be the nails, on angles. Plants will catch the wind bug also anchor it.

Ask your architect to avoid trade names. Not even Kingspan or equivalent.⁸ If you phone a supplier and ask for Kingspan, they aren't supposed to offer any alternative.

That is very specialist. A masonry wall should be half the price.

@bassanclanyour post has settled in the wrong discussion.

I found the hard pointed tile bits to be good First put a bit of Sellotape (other clear sticky backed plastics are available) over the drilling location and it will hold the tip and stop the glaze chipping. these are at SF too. I think I'd buy a big brand though, or from Topps.

Rather than battens? How about the resilient bars fixed to a cleat or block of some sort, so that there is rom for cables? I might think this through and patent it.

No it will not. Try some held under water. It will pop up and be as dry inside as when it went in. you can, in that it is allowed as long as a minimum level is maintained for he each element. I have not found this, so I suspect some flanking path. But you are right that a sandwich PIR will not be as absorbent as a mineral wool one. I have to admit that dew point is not something I've ever calculated, so must have been lucky every time.....or it isn't much of an issue in real life and normal room conditions.

Probably not applicable to you but. Lindab told me that their copper effect finish rwp is often stolen on the assumption that it is made of copper.

It's like being reluctant to have a roof. Gutters and downpipes are the only right answer. Lindab is elegant and precise. I've got about 12m of it with special bends. 15 years on still looking good. Just think carefully on the position for the downpipe, and choose a colour to blend or contrast.

I thought it was about as relevant as I've ever been.

150mm blocks are usually 140mm or so. Don't ignore B and Q and Wickes. Their prices are sometimes better than the merchants. I got half a lorry load from B and Q once, as they beat Travis P. They turned up on site delivered by TP.

The area of wood increases and of insulation decreases. Prorata the area to get the 2 values.

Agreed. We fretted over losing 100mm of the effective width. As finished it doesn't cross our minds that it might have been wider, especially sitting in the cosy space. Yes optimise the space if there are no other constraints, but build quality comes top.

that is fine and what it is for. it will prevent stone pushing down and mixing with mud.

I see downsides. Big stones will be isolated on either side of this mesh, reducing the interlink, thus reducing the strength. How would you support it? Why not give it away? If it was useful for concrete I'd expect it to be advertised for it.

That is within. Then there is some on the inner face. We've got about 10 construction details because it is 3/4 convert and 1/4 replace.

Stick built with osb outer skin and vcl, then a ventilation gap and treated wood cladding. Frametherm, from memory. Density is rigjt for compressing into the space and staying there.

Within the stud space we experimented on the practicality. Because stud never provides an exact, squared shape, it leaves gaps. We settled on using half thickness in pir and then dense mineral wool pressed in over it. The thinner pir can be fitted more precisely and the gaps are small and sealed off, thus becoming small insulating pockets. It's a compromise. As a bonus, the vapour barrier can deflect a bit when services are going in the service void.

Minimise it. There are sometimes options on how to build that can save on muck away and replacing with concretd/ gravel etc.

Excuse me nit rereading from the start but. Make your wall with a cement board outer sheet, or brick. No need for a cavity. Or forget sips.

Don't ever do that. There has to be an approved thickness of intumescent paint, usually white, and it has to be sealed with the official top coat. This can be coloured by the manufacturer.

You are asking for quotes to get a feeling for the cost, as they can't give firm quotes without a design. Thus these are guesses, some high maybe some low. There may be a bigger contractor with the experience to estimate this fairly accurately. They might spare it a couple of hours to do this, but it would still only be a guide not a firm offer. Also please note: word will get round that you are asking multiple contractors. Only one can get the job and a proper quote costs them time and money. Just go to 3 or 4. Assume somewhere in the middle for now, but get it designed.