saveasteading

....Scotland and we see why the huge sums involved were made secret and only revealed in the 10 year release of documents from parliament. Harold Wilson demanded it was not revealed or "they" will vote for independence.

Honestly? Maybe it sounds good to a novice client. The bit about good design and management paying for itself can be true but is not often believed/ understood. Getting the money from MMC manufacturers concerns me. You recommend them and they give you commission? Several thousand You may well recommend one on true merit and being best for the project, but how do we know that? Then do they take it out of their margin, as a saved marketing cost? Or add it? If MMC is not the best approach, then you don't get commission. A perceived conflict of interest perhaps. Ditto Architect. I know too much, and perhaps it wil work for first time self builders. A question for interest only. How do you define MMC? In my business I used many of the principles (only when appropriate) alongside traditional methods. I wonder how you might include local contractors with the ideal skills but who didn't have a factory or sell kits. I watched Dragon's Den last night. How do you think you would fare?

Thanks. There shouldn't be condensation that needs to dry though. We design so that doesn't occur.

I'm still confused. Isn't this easy? Don't get it wet. If it happens then close off the outside, breather membrane inside. I didn't know what UBAKUS was. It says its for Architects and students. Implying that it isn't for builders, Engineers, Surveyors? Is there logic to this?

Sad to say I was part of that, working for a contractor to double all water storage at pits. Huge expense for very short lived infrastructure.. Scargill proofing we found out later it was called. Watch Simon Reeve series "Scandinavia" to see what Norway did instead and the national wealth amassed.

Excuse my ignorance. What is this 'drying time'? Use dry wood, keep the rain out.... If if isn't dry, then don't cling wrap it until it is?

The accepted spelling is fascia,( right back to Roman times I've just seen) with the other being a more recent spelling, mis-spelt often but not correct.

It's the number of outlets that controls the capacity. The gutter can be infinitely long as long as there are enough outlets. However, a long slope can pour dramatically into or over it if it is small.

I started to understand it then got lost. I must be as hbar as 2 reduced plancks.

An interesting risk assessment. As would be Mr Dibner's. Shouldnt the knot be a metre or so before the end?

Ask your builder to check with his insurer, what cover he has for designing a swimming pool. None obviously. And a warranty? Yes it could collapse or float when empty, or crack when full, unless designed as a water tank. 2 layers of mesh and careful detailing AND careful construction. The issue with stiff (which sounds good) ground is that any clay expands and contracts a lot seasonally, and with considerable force.

That's a load of .... dirty water. 450 is a very big pipe indeed. Bad luck but that's a fair decision.

Loved the crossed h which was new to me, so looked it up. I thought this was all a terribly clever joke but see it's a real thing . The explanation is beyond me but I assume can be summarised as the thickness of a shortened length of scaffold board.

That's most people's maximum. The attitude of steel and cladding workers used to be "if I was going to fall, it would have happened by now". They walked along rafters. They all knew of someone who had fallen though.. just the once. At that time I tried to use nets but HSE wouldn't allow it. It was 'a French idea' and not approved. To be fair, leading edge protection worked quite well. Adding a handrail was innovation. MEWPS hadn't been around long either. I've come across a site photo, from the 80s, of steel erection with ladders at 5.5m. That was normal and approved.

I'm facinated. You abseiled down the slope? And if you fell through?

And the gutter will probably ( can be) be bigger than shown. That looks small and far too shallow..... gutters seldom go in level or to a steady fall, so any dip or rise severely reduces capacity.

All good advice. It's probably not asbestos fibres but assume it is, so don't brush it. I'd combine the treatments. In dry conditions, coat the area with a bonding agent to kill dust. Then inject/trowel in CT1. But these panels can move quite a lot so then stick tape over it. Denso tape is primitive yet effective... but I've no idea how long it will last in sun. Tyvek tape may be worth a try... it is very sticky ( by brand, not a 'similar' make). That seems to be along the crown (ridge) so that is lucky. If you can obtain a section of the same profile you could overplate it. Steel, zinc, lead, or a piece of rooflight, and stick it on.

It's most likely dampness through the floor but you've checked that....so driving through some weakness.. under the door, through the wall. The simplest answer is much more ventilation. But first walk all round it and go into it during heavy rain. You'll often find a drip or dribble.

In her defence... I have some that work well after the 10 years or more since installation, some that no longer click but screw out, and some that are permanently up. Some of these appear to simply be rubbish products. I'd suggest only buying well known brands or from a plumbers' merchant rather than the other well known outlets.

No. Any big brand tape will be good. They cost £4, work well, fit in your pocket and it doesn't matter much when it disappears or you drop it.

Agreed. This needs prior discussion with all your teams to agree what reasonable means.

My point is that most people don't know that. Or that tapes come in 3 degrees of accuracy and some are beyond that and just wrong.

That's someone who doesn't understand numbers. Slide rule use proved useful in Engineering as it was all approximate and required the undersranding of significant figures. Btw have you noticed the "loose" end on a steel measuring tape? I don't usually worry about using it " correctly" but there is a variable straight away.

I think you have to change your expectations or nothing will suit. I don't know when I last used a decimal mm in construction. I appreciate it may be a mindset and things like cutlery laid approximately can be an issue. I'd be interested to know what measurement would have been acceptable 1mm? 0.5mm? Measuring tapes aren't even that accurate. pencils get thicker as you draw a line. Saw blades have thicknesses, materials are variable, hands are not machines. There will be many worse discrepancies in your house should you choose to look for them. Nobody else will notice.

Am I misunderstanding? Adaptation involves turning off unused lights, putting a jumper on in the cold weather. Not doing the dishes under a hot running tap. Reuse, repair and recycle. Don't buy what you don't need. They're easy and have less than zero cost. Or in trump maths 200% reduction. Then comes not having so many cars, reducing plane travel. It's back to the 1950s basically and adjusting expectation, but with the benefit of greener energy. And is much cheaper than new every time. It's just not what people, and big business 0 want.