saveasteading

Done that, using a 3m drywall stud which is nicely straight and is stiff enough. 2mm under the straightedge is generally the worst so that is not significant. 2 areas of about .5m2 are a little worse so I'm going to try the old fashioned 'rub it with a brick' first. I'm still keen to find how thick the adhesive is generally applied. Also any recommendations on brands for primer. As often, the wickes price sets a target.. less 10% and including vat. And of course I am open to being told that I'm wrong on any of the above.

That's the theory. But most warehouse floors are left as they are. And structures likewise. So I think it's overstated, unless the laitance ("fat" to concretors) is very severely overworked and is a paste of very wet gypsum. Even then I am not convinced it's an issue in a domestic situation.

I'm getting conflicting info re preparing the screed for timber flooring. In other words, people like spending my money. Where there is tiling, we have no issues. The screed has not been ground back to remove ripples or laitence. Dips and ridges disappear using the tiler's skill and some double buttering. In the other rooms we will have oak faced multi ply planks, t and g, 12mm thick. I can't see what is different in laying this instead of tiles. But someone says the screed needs to be ground to remove ripples and laitance. Someone else says it needs latex at any dips. The floor planks are very high quality and won't be bending or slapping in use unless the gap is significant. I'm about to survey all the floors using a 3m straightedge, and will consider the 3mm rule as a pass. Any thoughts on that? Does anyone know how thick the adhesive is as standard, or what might be considered acceptable at any dips? Then the laitance thing. These floors only receive downwards loading and won't be flying up in a draught. But is the screed surface so soft that it comes off if the floor moves? I was thinking that a coat of primer would suffice. And if it's a blue colour then everyone will be happy to see it. Any very big dips or ridges will be dealt with on their demerits... I will soon know the significance.

I'm getting conflicting info re preparing the screed for timber flooring. In other words, people like spending my money. Where there is tiling, we have no issues. The screed has not been ground back to remove ripples or laitence. Dips and ridges disappear using the tiler's skill and some double buttering. In the other rooms we will have oak faced multi ply planks, t and g, 12mm thick. I can't see what is different in laying this instead of tiles. But someone says the screed needs to be ground to remove ripples and laitance. Someone else says it needs latex at any dips. The floor planks are very high quality and won't be bending or slapping in use unless the gap is significant. I'm about to survey all the floors using a 3m straightedge, and will consider the 3mm rule as a pass. Any thoughts on that? Does anyone know how thick the adhesive is as standard, or what might be considered acceptable at any dips? Then the laitance thing. These floors only receive downwards loading and won't be flying up in a draught. But is the screed surface so soft that it comes off if the floor moves? I was thinking that a coat of primer would suffice. And if it's a blue colour then everyone will be happy to see it. Any very big dips or ridges will be dealt with on their demerits... I will soon know the significance.

We don't notice the small rises and falls and especially not consistent slopes. Eg we have a dreadfully poorly screeded room with 17mm variance from one corner to the opposite. ( v Big room) You cannot feel it in walking. The tiler has dealt with it skillfully with double buttering which also loses the dips and ripples. But: it is visible and a pain in fixing skirtings. If the floor was thin LVT then it would follow the curves and show every ripple and I'd worry about it not even lying in straight lines. If the floor was thin laminate I'd worry about ridges and hollows being bridged and bouncing. What am I saying? 1. It depends what floor you are laying. Appearance may be more of an issue than performance or final shape. 2. The screeders' work is awful and next time I'd ask very rigorous questions about method and control. Because of seeing it done well once, I assumed a level of competence which was not there.

And so should @Oz07. There are overturning loads to consider, and how to fix them down. I have no idea how to fix them to an ICF.

Not so. If well run they can be efficient and their decisions can be very positive. If badly run then you are right. If controlled by persons with personal interests then they can do harm.. which is why new councillors are needed.

Have a play with this, 5m clear span gives a few possibilities. and as it is a garage the loads can be reduced and maybe plain timber will work. That assumes that it is and always will be a garage! https://www.jamesjones.co.uk/products-and-services/engineered-timber/jji-joists/interactive-span-table

I've found the blockages in progress to be right in the middle of local authorities' hierarchy. The hands on people who have good ideas find they get passed up the chain then stop. The highly competent top administrators give instructions down the chain until they stop. At the same level and even the same person, who has reached their level of incompetence and wants nothing to change. I imagine it us veey difficult to remove that blockage: in fact one chief executive of a LA pretty well told me as much. We can get rid of the incompetent politicians, at least in theory. As for praise for the people who do something for the community.... it exists but is drowned out by the complainers who expect something for nothing, but don't contribute.

There was a recent discussion about diy glulam. This article is about all means of connection, including adhesive. https://timberdevelopment.uk/timber-connections-an-introduction/

You mention "they" a lot. It sounds as if the community needs "you" and others with practical ideas to get things changed.

Volume? Of course it depends on the garden needs, but it's a decent amount of water. But it would be quite low in the ground and might need pumping. Health and safety wise? Everyone will say no, and probably rightly so. But what comes out generally looks clear and I know it hasn't killed trees I've had drains near to. My hunch is probably no harm with decorative plants or trees but should not be used for vegetables.

A further thought on this. We often see comments (I am not referring to BH) that 'they are all the same' or 'all on the brown envelopes'. I suspect that people saying that are projecting what they would be doing, onto others. They might usefully attend a council meeting, of which most are public, and see if they fancy giving up several evenings a month to keep the wheels moving. Yes there are people who abuse their position, but most are well intentioned, even if we might not agree with them, and give up a lot of time. There are often vacancies on Parish Councils which gives useful experience before having to stand for election at the next 4 year cycle.

Nice looking drawing but fascia is spelt thus, and without the 's' it is a mis-spelling , however common. I'm not clear on what is supporting the 'running bearer' . And although it is stated as 100 deep it scales much less. Plus there seem to be a lot of those diagonal supports.... a lot of wood on show. It is strange that such a formal looking drawing, which initially inspires confidence, has these, and maybe more, errors.

Use treated timber (Tanalised or equivalent) and C24.... the C16 untreated is generally for lightweight internal work, and the cost difference is small. The element doing most work in your example is the fascia board, as it is supporting multiple rafter and joist ends, and that isn't good. Start with the gallows brackets, then add a timber to the front, bearing on them, then fit the rafters and joists. The fascia is for show and to keep the weather out. This is a very small structure which is supporting your tiles most of the time, but occasionally will have wind uplift. Nobody is going to die if it fails, but it is still best to keep it to the logic above.

I recommend all, especially critics, to consider standing for their local parish or borough. We need you. Then report back on whether it was easy, well rewarded, selfish: or hard work, not or barely rewarded, or public spirited. Or to stop criticising all councillors, politicians and public servants.

I recommend all, especially critics, to consider standing for their local parish or borough. Then report back on whether it was easy, well rewarded, selfish: or hard work, not or barely rewarded, or public spirited. Or to stop criticising all councillors, politicians and public servants.

An interesting discussion on radio 4. https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/m003011r Very architect heavy, but that was I interesting in itself. I have new quotes... shiny buildings.....green toupee.

Yes. Over what was prob a £2k claim ( I don't know because they handled it all). I'm now with Allianz which came top in 3 different comparisons... yet strangely variable between them. They don't ask the right questions.

I was very surprised when Churchill said they were not offering renewal. Because of a relatively small claim? Shame, as their customer service was exemplary. Ie they answered phones and had real people. So it now seems more likely that it was a takeover thing. These good people are probably gone. As I've mentioned before, an insurance manager proudly boasted that they had the lowest payouts in the world (40% of income I recall). They spent a lot on resisting and refusing claims. So I agree that we need to know this as well as the cheapest quote. That's where "Which" ratings must be worth a look.

@scottishjohn when a petrol station is charging 6 to 8p/litre more than one not far away is this always location and convenience? Because as you say , 3p/l is not much return, but suddenly to become 10p is a huge difference. In Spain there is even greater variance. It is nearly always linked to attended service or self serve (8 to 10c/l) . The 3rd option is total automation with no shop which is hopeless when there is any problem of course. These can be cheaper (no labour) or dearer (remote or 24/7).

generally this is the case, but it depends on the ground. If sitting on hot rock, the borehole will be expensive but decent heat may be harvested. payback is a few years At the other extreme is heavy clay and with other houses seeking the same heat source. Payback is never, and air source is the way. in between are other boreholes with sand or silt that has a flow of water through it, warming the pipes. Pipes in surface trenches are not really harvesting ground heat, but the energy from the sun in summer, stored in the ground, but diminishing, through the winter. These can be simply installed behind a plough that makes it very easy, or in a trench being dug for another reason. Payback again depends on aspect and ground. 10 years perhaps. The slinky companies of 20 years ago have gone, and rightly so. Pipes in lakes or very large ponds can be an option if the volume and depth are sufficient, and especially if water is flowing.

Just thought of this: according to contemporary accounts incl ballads, and evidence in palaces, the nobility did lots of hunting and sports. Then as you say they fought or caught diseases.

I don't recall ever doing it. But your way seems sensible. Push a plug of rockwool to give a stop then a sharp sand mix as facing.

Agreed, and I don't think that planners have the skills or knowledge to know if it is appropriate.... they've had a free seminar with sandwiches, from an mvhr body or energy consultant, and now think they are experts. I had a similar argument re green roofs. And superfoil nearly had one council convinced that it was effective. ( I went for that sandwiches and to be a pain at question time) You could tick a box with a tiny mvhr. I saw a pretty useless one at an exhibition.. a box on the inside of an outside wall. The guy couldn't explain why the same air wouldn't go straight back out again. You might find something a bit better with some ducting. If the bco doesn't want one then that might kill it.