saveasteading

It is guidance not a rule. Spread the drains all over and some relaxation should be OK.

Was that previously a railway bridge. What a lot of bolts...but I like it. Is it/ Does it need to be fire protected? It's almost heavy enough that it doesn't but not a lot of people know that.

That's the way. Before the houses were built, the land was rained upon and it went away, presumably. You can spread over the whole garden if you like, using French drains. The 5m rule is there for a reason, to prevent the house being undermined. Therefore it would be advisable to connect both houses into the new system and leave the old soakaway alone. In case the drains don't cope in extreme conditions, there ca be an overflow into a pond or a crated tank. This will hold the eater until it can get away. Do discuss it with the bco before starting. You might need to prove the efficacy and need some professional help on it, as the bco has to consider what happens to your and oth properties if it doesn't drain.

Good news. Standard `construction. Strip footings and beam & block, I would think.

Agreed IF it is big enough. A newsworthy downpour's worth plus. And not near a building I don't understand the question though. Are you building or have you sold the site? Who decided to build so close to the soakaway? Where is the new building rainwater to go? The bco will be involved at some stage. With more info we can help.

If you built a new soakaway the maximum distance from any other buildings, how far would that be?

Wrong forum! We are all cynics and miserable.

I've even shown utility companies mains services they didn't know were there. Not on any drawing. It's seldom a good deal to buy a house in order to build an extension, unless you are a builder. It's done to avoid moving usually, and the increase in value is usually less than the cost......and then there is the disruption and, in your case, the risk

My understanding is that the contract is reciprocal , but the reality is that the SE imports and never exports.

This means flooding from tivers etc. That doesn't look to be a problem Low to moderate says the same. How close troubles you?

That's a lintel. Ready-made at b and q ir any builders merchant. But home made will fit perfectly and be satisfying. If you keep the concrete on the dry side, it can be forced up under an existing frame. Don't use oil. Either remove your timber formers after a couple of hours, or put a polythene face on it.

It is as you surmised. A councillor can require it to be removed from a delegated decision, to being put before the councillors of the planning committee. so you have to convince your councillor or, very unlikely, the councillor for another ward. I have seen that . It was where a councillor was pushing a vote towards something that was contrary to fundamental policy, so guaranteed to be appealed against. I expect there are party lines too, at the bigger councils.

On which general subject of materials science, may I recommend this week's "Infinite Monkey Cage" on Radio 4, on the subject of elasticity, ductility etc. Some proper nerdy information from top experts, and entertaining with it.

If it is a small shallow drain only serving the adjacent house then it's relatively easy and cheap to move. If big or deep that won't be the case. Don't assume you will ever get permission. You need the neighbours' blessing too. Allow £10k to £20 for a simple diversionbpkus you will/ may need professional help with permissions. More if not simple.

Breathable. Overlapped. Stapled to the timber. No tape.

The walls are damp. Not very and the tendency is outwards but they are not dry. The pir is non continuous at the studs and the studs are exposed unless you put this vapour barrier backing on. The polythene is on the inside. Thats great. We are trying to keep it that way. When you start insulating the place you will decrease the heat needed, and the current costly drying of the walls.

By the back do you mean facing the exterior wall Yes. So you have the damp masonry, then an air gap, then the membrane protecting the stud and holding the insulation.

The vapour barrier goes on the back of the stud and holds it all in place. We went for 50mm pir because 100 is difficult to push in precisely and leaves gaps. But squirty foam is banned by me. The gaps should be tiny closed pockets and mot too much heat loss. Don't be tempted to cut the pir well short for ease and foam it all....I've read this is the norm by some builders for their convenience. 50mm fits pir well enough with small air gaps. The 50mm rockwool squeezes in over the pir and covers the gaps. Half as good insulation but a decent compromise. Re the wall profile, that's as I predicted above, based on ours. You don't have to make it all the same thickness eg if one smsll area of stone is sticking out, it's ok to bridge past it in smaller stud, to keep more room area.

Agreed. The proper term is dormer BTW albeit pronounced dorma in some parts where r is silent.

That's likely to be a good option. What size is the house?

There are very likely much better ways to do this, but we are dabbling unless we know the site, the job, and see the ground report. @AppleDownsending to 10 people is wasting a lot of people's time or, they won't answer. You need a design expert who works for you. Your chosen SE should suffice for now. 1. Get the slab built 2 put a house on it.

A 10m3 water tank and a turning head should suffice.

Worrying really. That drawing is pointless, as a proper expert needs to take over. You can see the issue so why can't your technician? The note should say " do not use this drawing". They dabble with mentioning eccentricity of the load. Who even says it needs piling? The choice of pile could change that whole design. Does the floor sit on ground, not piled? If you have a ground report can we see it?

I notice that your stud is only 45mm deep. that isn't strong enough for normal stiffness (it will bend if shouldered, and cracks could appear or pictures fall off. So either add to it or replace. 100mm stud will do but more will allow more insulation but lose floor space. I have no issue with having 100mm or more insulation. if you leave a gap from stud to stone it will look after itself. There is only so much you can do with an old stone wall. Also, the roof has planked sarking boards. These have gaps between them so there is loads of ventilation. 3 skin stone walls have decent inbuilt properties for losing the dampness. Yours is presumably granite which is waterproof, but needs good pointing. So I suggest you have the following 600mm stone wall gap, 25mm minimum, but it will be very variable. vapour barrier on stud 100mm stud, containing 50mm pir board and 50mm knauf mineral wool (100mm pi is difficult to fit accurately) polyethene layer 30mm battens plasterboard. This is likely to be how your stone walls are built, with the middle having lots of mortar.

You might be able to staple a membrane behind the stud if you are a contortionist. Then fill between studs. Then a service gap and a finish. That adds up to a half decent insulation. The wall itself is contributing if the outside is well pointed.