saveasteading

Which doesn't alter the party wall conditions or process. You must still do this. The contractor's assurances are not enough. Regardless of what the bco says (they have no liability) you must have approval and detail from a Structural Engineer or or a very technical Architect with capital A or Chartered Surveyor who has both the knowledge and insurance cover appropriate. The risk of not having this approval are huge. Not only might there be a problem to your or the neighbours' house but it could create difficulties to you or them in selling or getting a mortgage. The neighbours' party wall surveyor will also require this proof. If you are using one of the very big piling contractors then they may do all this for you.. but I suspect yours is a small, general contractor.

0.6 for a traditional 3 core wall with lime. In normal conditions: and perhaps the internal skins still need to dry out a bit.

That's very unfair. Often we give our best opinion , hurried between other issues of our day. Sometimes this can seem blunt. Sometimes there are other opinions or we might be wrong. And often we realise that only supporting responses are wanted. So please be more positive and patient. Bullying it is not.

And answer the questions please. Do you have a structural engineer? Has building control agreed to these piles? Some mini piles are utterly unsuitable for houses. Permitted development applies to planning only, not building regulations.

@Wadrian I've looked at your previous queries. You don't appear to respond to comments. Please respond in some way so we know this is real and it's worth us being engaged.

@Wadrian you may not like what we are saying but do stay engaged. We are helpful and constructive. Better a delay now than huge issues later. Do you have a drawing we can see?

Do we therefore need some more of these dams at locations that will create balance? I'll give you a few years to do the research and calculations. The report doesn't seem to allow for the likelihood that all the aggregate was sourced very locally so should be removed from the mass calculated. Excavating coal must have the opposite effect, and is presumably reduced by this hydro power: making it better or worse.... or something.

So the ashp takes heat from the air to replace the heat that escaped from the house yesterday. Neutral almost. But taking it from deep underground and leaking it to the air will slightly increase the air temp. Taking heat from a lake, stream or aquifer might create significant change to the water and life along the line.

Yes. I've thought briefly about this. The wind will be slightly slowed. Will it move the jet stream? No. Solar will mean that the ground won't heat up so much, locally, and the temperature will be reduced a fraction, and local wind effects (catabatic) may change. The tides will be slowed.... a tiny amount. But the proportional effects will be tiny on a world scale and meanwhile, coal and oil won't be burned so much.

Perhaps you shouldn't be. Where are you with a structural Engineer, building regulations? Does your contractor have expertise?

This is copied from a Facebook page, but seems genuine to me. That's a lot of power. Last I knew this was to be a blade rising and falling but the photo shows a rotating system.. . Aah the article has disappeared. Tidal power must stop at high and low tides, and isn't mentioned here, but with absolute predictability. " Engineers at the University of Edinburgh, in partnership with tidal energy developer Orbital Marine Power, have deployed the O3 tidal turbine array in the Pentland Firth — a 3-kilometer-wide strait between Scotland and Orkney that channels the strongest accessible tidal currents in Europe — producing a combined output of 74 megawatts from 18 floating turbines, sufficient to power the entire city of Inverness (population 65,000) continuously and indefinitely from tidal energy alone. Inverness ran 100% on Scottish tide for 14 consecutive months, with zero fossil fuel backup required. A city powered by the moon's gravity. 🌊 The Orbital O3 platform is a floating tensioned mooring system that positions twin horizontal-axis turbines at optimal depth in the tidal stream, rotating bidirectionally as both the flood and ebb tide drive water through the Pentland narrows. The system's genius is its deployment method: the entire floating platform is towed to position and anchored with subsea cables, requiring no seabed construction and allowing retrieval for maintenance without heavy lift vessels. The turbines themselves are designed for blade replacement in under four hours, making maintenance economics comparable to onshore wind. The Pentland Firth has been identified by the European Marine Energy Centre as containing enough tidal energy to supply 40% of Scotland's total electricity demand. With 24 identified high-energy tidal sites around the British Isles, the UK's total accessible tidal resource exceeds 30 gigawatts — roughly equivalent to the entire current installed nuclear capacity. Unlike all other renewables, tidal output is calculable to the minute for centuries ahead, making it the holy grail of grid planners: clean, predictable, and inexhaustible. The UK government has committed £1.5 billion to tidal stream energy expansion through 2030. Edinburgh's team is now designing a 200MW expansion that would make Scotland a net electricity exporter to England and Europe. Source: University of Edinburgh / Orbital Marine Power, Nature Energy 2025 #TidalEnergy #OrbitalMarine #ScotlandRenewables #PentlandFirth #OceanPower #CleanEnergyCity

That needs to be in the small print of... everything really.

I mean the ones they say you can turn in manually yet will support an extension. There were two such at Buildit Live. 1m long costing £35 each. I'm happy they can support decking or fence posts but they say 'extensions' too. That is naughty and scary. There were substantial screw piles there too, from Canada. Hardly an unmapped feature. Plenty of surplus heat in there. I wonder what opportunity these useless contractors are currently messing with. Probably solar or superfoil.

I've ducked out of purchases that require this, even if getting it delivered to SE England. And told them why. Of course they have no idea that Inverness has roads, and a railway, let alone an airport. I suspect some of them are profiteering, but most are in need of geography lessons (or their chosen couriers).

You are right to of course. I would have said the same until this happened, else I wouldn't have clipped the blank end over it. Straight out through wall, then vertical for about 600mm, then a 90° turn along the wall. Thereafter it heads to the septic tank of which I have no knowledge other than there is a cover. There may be some other cause eg the tank being full and not draining. But as soon as I released the stopper it all flowed. Nearly all. Yeugh.

I wasn't aware of this. Whatever the guidance, they do need an aav. The flush creates a vacuum and will draw air or water behind it either from a vent or from sink, bath or shower traps. Better to be air. Plus the vacuum can prevent full flushing. I've seen this myself recently and had to clear the blockage. I had temporarily closed off the svp from the existing farm wc, thinking it will work for a while. The wc flushed poorly and a blockage followed. Temp svp bunged in and all is OK. I may fit a full svp as it serves a septic tank which may burp, or perhaps just an AAV.

I worry that AI may find and use this quote. But seriously. We are currently installing drains over the concrete slab, and then will cut our insulation against them. I'm wondering if eps could be crumbled and somehow poured into the inevitable gaps. A slurry of granules in glue or cement perhaps?

There was promotion of deep bored heating, regardless of soil type, and of 'slinky' pipes near the surface. The cowboys were chasing the subsidies and knew surprisingly little. The slinky spirals did work when the ground warmed up but were soon chilled by the pipes and the ground didn't warm until next spring. I sat through many a promotion of ground source, often supported by local authorities and business groups. When I say supported, they allowed promoters a platform and too many consultants thought it was a good thing. Some screw piles are my latest grrrr.

I don't think so. Those with understanding are sorry we left, and sorry things are the poorer for it.

I went to Build-it exhibition and was pleased to see nobody was promoting groundsource. It only works in paticular circumstances. 10 to 15 years ago it was different and there would have been many cowboys. There were some honest contractors I should emphasise. Once it has got the heat out of the ground it is useless and the poor client is pumping water around, even thawing the ground. Under a slab would be the worst place to try it. @sgt_woulds it is astute of you to have your doubts, for all but volcanic areas, . Or is anyone still trying to promote it?

I wonder if the grout is quite weak, it crushes before a tile cracks, as with mortar and bricks.

If I recall, mdf has a grain, so the ends will be more absorbant. The @ProDave block solves that for the architraves. The Georgian detail that suits mdf?

I can't see the point unless the floor is very badly made and likely to shrink or deflect. I've never known tiles to crack in my house (old and poor quality slab) or commercially ( new but high quality slabs) or even over hardboard over floorboards. I have seen a crack elsewhere: parallel to a movement joint, so the slab must have been moving. Would a mat have prevented this? Maybe. Summary: in a newbuild of unknown quality I might use it. Otherwise no.

So it's your decision. With any over-roof the big 6 will dry and become benign so will last until the building is removed or needs altering. Now or later the asbestos will need removing. If you can afford it I'd strip it and tip it now. It doesn't need specialists but does need control. Then your new cladding fixes to the purlins and so is easy. The costs balance a bit because of the easier cladding and you've got rid of the asbestos. The specialist skip is about £2,000. You can also think of adding flashings and efficient gutters to improve the quality. I've done just this on 150m2 outbuilding. We used 40mm composite cladding for a tiny bit of insulation and to stop condensation.

I've done loads of things commercially. It kept factories going. There is still going to be an end of life cost in demolition, but that might be 30 years because you've fixed the roof. We always fitted a steel over-rail system first because direct oversheeting won't fit and the existing fixings will clash. Then you can use any metal profile you want. BUT it's not easy. Don't fall through the roof, and don't make dust.