saveasteading

Thanks for this. I'm not convinced on this argument but as i don't know much about these screeds I need to do homework. It does not have fibre. I've gone off fibre anyway as it clumps and is very inconsistent. It is a gypsum product, pumped. 49% club... I don't understand. Brilliant info: I was going to look into this principle. Cracks will be about 0.1mm and will refill with dust. Even if they did somehow open or close again, it would need a minuscule movement in the adhesive... and the grout should give way first. Quite right. In such cases I would often explain the perceived risk with the client, and often they took the saving. It could still be awkward if there was a problem, whatever the contract says. But it's for ourselves using the pension I've saved by making such decisions for decades. i. e. Questioning almost everything, especially the standard ways of doing things that nobody can justify. These are usually "trade" things where they say its best but hsve nil justifiication. Most radical experijents have been on ourselves. Some haven't been ideal but no dramas and usually it's fine. Strangely I see that the ufh pipes are mostly visible by having 1mm or so ridge over them. I'm thinking this has been by displacement of the screed after partial setting, and being walked on. But cracking is only visible in one place I've noticed, though if it's like concrete, there will be millions of tiny cracks/crazing. They didn't put crack inducers at doors and there are no cracks there, which suggests shrinkage is miniscule. I will research further.

That's a " day joint". Not a bad idea though to put a factory edge to work to. As compared to a piece of 4x2.

That's another thing that some trades-people "just do". Screed and slabs indoors do not expand. They may benefit from contraction joints/crack inducers but that is for tidy cracks as opposed to random ones.

If you could expand the logic, or instinct, please? At nil screed of course it would be impossible to tile: at 100mm you appear to agree with my logic. I have some hunch that there is a purpose for membrane at 40 /50mm but I can't grab the logic out of my head. Btw we will have 200m2 of tile (the rest timber laminate) so, at say £10/m2 plus any labour implications, it is a big cost. We're doing well on tile costs so to then add back 1/3 "for peace of mind" wrankles.

We have a lot of floor tiling to do. A recommended tiler says we "really should" have a decoupling membrane. I can't see any evidence that this isn't just an extra earner or " what most people recommend". The stated reasons online are. 1. Peace of mind. For the tiler or me? 2. Waterproof layer. no need. 3. Allows for settlement of the building. It's all on an existing industrial slab, 30 years in use. 4. a) Allows for shrinkage of slab. Ditto b) Allows for expansion and shrinkage and drying of screed. 40mm screed is already cured and isn't going to expand or contract . 5. Allows for thermal movement due to underfloor heating. I don't see that as significant. Any cracks are microscopic. 6. Ideal for Large Format Tiles – Enhances stability and strength. What difference does size make apart from the cost of big tiles? 7. Esp important with ufh due to heating and cooling cycles. I don't see 30 degrees as extreme 8. Enhances strength. I'd think the opposite is the case. To snap a tile it is bridged over soft material and point loaded. A tile cutter doesn't work with the tile flat on a solid base. So if i drop a pot I want the tile to stay solid, not deflect. My other cons. A. £7/M2 or more, plus waste, plus labour. B. We end up with a 10 To 20mm skin of ceramic, barely stuck down or restrained. C. The decoupler works both ways, and could encourage vertical movement under loads, eg table legs, and the grand piano. D. Even if the slab was poor quality, what is that membrane actually doing? Allowing the slab to move but leaving the tiles exactly where they are? I can't see it. E. The membrane acts as insulation on the wrong side. I've looked hard for any evidence and all I can find is that it is normal. Perhaps in a new build of questionable quality it is wise, and for small areas the cost seems relatively minor. I've currently got an old house with poor quality concrete floors. Large expanses of tile have lasted 15 years so far. Lucky again? And a holiday home abroad with lots of tiles on concrete. The only cracks are where I've dropped a log. I should explain. The project in question has 175 reinforced slab on dpm on stone, 30 years industrial use. Then 300mm eps and pir, and dpm. Then 40 to 50 poured screed with ufh. But I wouldn't be asking if I would not welcome opposing views or evidence. Any comments?

Worth insulating then to some extent. Bubblewrap to the structure and pipe insulation.

TLC for me too, unless I need hands-or -eyes-on. The prices are best of near to best. And heavy cable is by the m and saves waste. I think that SF and TS charge as much as they can, relying on just in time purchases on the way to the job. If it's not in stock that is a big failure in my opinion. And the likes of City Electrical charge as much as they can, relying on their trade clients using the credit account for cashflow. My most recent order from TLC was downlighters based on BH advice. Ordered one evening, arrived next morning in their own marked van. That service deserves repeat orders.

I think we are into the times of black plastic. Whatever the material, there will be a standard connector for you to take a loop off. You are going to have to gently dig an exploratory hole at some stage. I suggest now, and the ground may still be soft.

You would need some more certainty before making a formal fuss. But if they have left out the dpm it is a very big deal in competence, and in remedial work. There should be a warranty document which will explain the protocol. At some stage it would involve an independent expert and some testing. Otoh if it was an old house with no dpm, you would paint the surface with a sealant. Bug don't do that... that is a long way down the line. Unless I've mussed it, you having said which part of the country. Just approximately.

Agreed. I had to change a seal in a concealed cistern it is very clever that this is possible through the flush plate.....and it works well again. Part was easy to get and reasonable cost too. The instructions are good too . But my hands are too big/ my clumsiness, and I dropped a small plastic fixing that is then inaccessible, and I had to improvise. I will buy Roca again though.

Absolutely not . You can test this. In a similar area, i.e. same floor construction, but not covered, put a piece of clean polythene down with weight on the edges to hold it down. If there is free moisture then it will condense under the polythene. You could use an upside down glass instead. Putting a vapour barrier on top may be necessary but should not if a) one has been installed under the slab. b) the slab has had time to dry. I've known drain smells to be dish-cloth-like. If the traps are not filled with water, it can come up there.

You both have the right attitude I think. Eventually. Wild flowers and meadows require "not mowing". And it hadn't occurred to me that I could do my " no digging" at any time or place. I may "not dig" tomorrow while watching tv.

It shouldn't be, if the house was weather- tight. The outdoor temperature shouldn't make much difference. Anything else you can tell us? Do the windows steam up? How long did you have the house before laying the flooring? What is the flooring material? Laminated can be several options. Any chance it is simply a smell coming off the flooring material itself?

When you could have been digging. I'm also a convert to companion planting and mixed planting: the very opposite of industrial monoculture. Garlic, marigolds, calendula, herbs in among the carrots , beans etc and the pests just can't find them or they get eaten. This is a handy chart I will be referring to

Thanks Gus. For others note that the summary wanders into other posts and discussions than the original. May I endorse the ' no dig' principle. It really works. Let the worms, cardboard and your vegetable waste do the work and save on fertiliser. They don't get the bricks out though. Youwon't hear much about no-dig on Gardeners' World as they 1. Have staff. 2. like digging for mental health reasons. 3. Are old school. On trees: I've had an apple tree die, I think drowned over the winter. Decorative: l like Rowan and silver birch anyway and so will be planting some in wet areas.

I agree that local facilities should be the priority. Perhaps @ProDavecan confirm that they already have good access to doctors etc, village hall, regular buses and so on due to these funds. Also that reducing use of electricity has to be encouraged, but it isn't so important if the wind farm is local. Just as it doesn't matters so nuch if you have your own solar. Wind is a national/ regional asset. I suppose so was coal , and that was whipped away commercially and to the prosperous, and locals employed but only until the coal ran out or they died young. If the terrain allows farming, that is a harvest for selling. Likewise if the asset is wind. We would sell power internationally, so why not regionally? Round @ProDave 's way there are estates of thousands of acres, owned of course by a few with a castle or 2 and a house in "town". At least the locals seem to be getting something.

I've never understood this. The gardening programmes often say to add sand or gravel to help drainage, and presumably they are right. But how gravel helps in porosity I don't know. Perhaps it just forms breaks in the bonds between clay particles.

Distributing to the locals seems appropriate. Are you suggesting it isn't ?

This came to me on Facebook and shows we have been discussing planting and they are listening. It is Scotland focussed but a lot of it will apply anywhere with heavy, esp compacted, clay and waterlogging. From what I know already, this is good advice, and along our intended lines for drainage, so I'm inclined to believe the rest too, esp what plants will thrive and help. Obv enter at your own risk. https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1DrEZd8UYc/

We have a large order to place and are favouring Roca for a lot of it. We are currently awaiting a quote from a smallish specialist supplier. Any guidance on what discount off list to aim for?

I've looked in detail at the standalone sircon units that are very common in Spain. In the diy stores they will have about 20 models. I box outside, pipes through the wall and a raduator/ fan inside. They are optimised for cooling but will also act as heaters, but not very efficiently....better than an electric heater but not much. It seems that the heat pumps are designed that way ie for heating or cooling most efficiently. I suppose the big difference is that in UK we are heating up to 20 when it might be zero outdoors all day, whereas in southern Spain in summer it will be cooling down to 25 when it is 35-40 at mid afternoon, dropping to 20 at night. ISH.... my new SI term to indicate very wild approximations. I wonder what the Spanish and French do in areas where they get very hot summers and also cold winters. Perhaps their units are optimised to heat and to cool.

I would have assumed there would be proper case studies by manufacturers or academics but I've not come across any. For me that's enough to suggest that it isn't an efficient process.... and many installers are just that, installers, and don't understand the heating principles let alone cooling.

I may tile the garage toilet/utility in a mix of old tiles for fun and mean-ness, I mean economy.

In real life though, are they still in store in case of damage? I can't recall ever having to use one. It would be relevant if changing fittings I suppose. We strive to get another 5% off the supply price then happily put 10% of the cost in the garden shed for ever. Would any suppliers set a box aside just in case? Of course they don't want to, but just might fof a very short period.

I seem to have usually 5% left over. If I've done it myself there will be actual waste due to mistakes, but the thinking out will have allowed offcuts to be used. If it's a professional then I don't expect many errors, and a polite discussion should avoid lots of big bits left over. Big tiles in small rooms won't be happening. Also I have prevailed in there not being bold patterns.... I hate seeing repeats in something pretending to be natural.