saveasteading

Ignore the glass on H and S grounds. I think he was guessing. It could always be added.

Perhaps. I went to a modular factory and was surprised to see it was just an old shed, with people slicing osb and cutting battens, and another nailing it on a bench. The difference though was quite simply in taking away all manual measuring. A computerised machine drew cutting lines and part numbers, straight from a schedule. So there was minimal waste, and much reduced skill level. Also, they took in fresh timber, in wrapped 6m3 or 4.8m3 bundles, straight from the docks and it never got wet so the quality was more certain.

I'm shocked, so to speak. So let's say there are 1 million properties in the UK then we are all, as families, paying £1,600 to these owners as dividends every year. I can understand the article being vague, as few journalists these days do more than print a press statement and very few will have construction or scientific knowledge. I'm guessing though that if it is plugged in on our side of the meter, that it doesn't apply. Maybe just do it and see what happens?

That sounds primitive, dangerous and short term. Can't the outlet have a grille? I bet they are a standard thing. Or simply stuff some mesh in the pipe. Anyway, any creature venturing in there would get washed away and become effluent.

This works and is some concreters preference, but can also go badly wrong. Maybe you can find a way so they don't get displaced. I started doing columns this way but moved away from it. @B52s what stage are you at now? Is the concrete in place. My preference is always to have the concrete in first, to an absolutely precise level or with 25mm space for metal shims or an extra nut beneath. NB this can affect your subsequent detailing so keep the concrete low to do this. Then to draw the bolt cluster positions as 4 points but with the square projected, as you will lose the marks. Then drill for threaded rod and epoxy. Some people prefer to have a ply or metal template to hang the bolt clusters but they can be displaced. As @Nickfromwales and @Russell griffithssay... check and check, and have a permanent reference line. Checking diagonal distances with a tape is important, even if you've used a right angle laser... they can be faulty or be used incorrectly... I never found out which. This process goes wrong a lot, even with experienced operatives, so you're right to ask and keep asking.

That's not happening I'm afraid. When I followed your link I saw that Toupret do a big range of external products, I will look into this powder one for the smaller work and maybe a resin one for big gaps. https://www.toupret.co.uk/professional-filler/product/wood-surfaces/wood-repair-filler-white https://www.screwfix.com/p/toupret-wood-repair-filler-natural-wood-1kg/224HE?tc=JS7&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=895557794&gbraid=0AAAAAD8IdPyUeZdKJb4fWJQyzVOYn2BPQ&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkMjOBhC5ARIsADIdb3eeVmP0gJAcT6hADzZZVxvyI8Zn5Qvb7FE9IJQidD9BaJTrhiBXTDsaAhMGEALw_wcB

I've never used a laser level so am not able to recommend. However 2 things to say. The big names such as Leica , when I used them every day by sight to a staff, were much more accurate than the others and were adjustable and repairable. No electronics, just lenses , prisms and a pendulum. The latter is what needed adjustment. Is that still how lasers function, gravity on a pendulum? No matter how good they are, there is a lot of skill in using them properly, especially in challenging conditions.... I know this from picking up the mess from workers who thought having a laser level was the whole answer. And 3rd of the 2!. Learn the principle of equal back-sight and fore-sight for anything more than a room distance. 4th, treat them very carefully.

No, this is SE England. temperature isn't stable here either. I'd say -5 to +35 this last year. Anyway an update, I've tried the Bedec Barn paint and am extremely impressed by it in every way. Handling it, I've been brushing onto the bare wood, perished paint and the decent paint and it flows nicely and covers amazingly well for a single coat so far. And it goes a long way too. Finding some more at a decent price doesn't look so easy, as the stockists are far apart and seem to favour black.... most actual barn conversions here use timber in natural or black, whereas the local architecture is traditionally in white: and its for an old house, as the pic above. I'm thinking this will best be a Forth Bridge process of dealing with flaky stuff as it arises as various areas have different properties according to age (areas have been re-clad over the years) , sunlight, damp etc. The ease of using this product aids that decision, as it is very easy to just use some, and wash the brush in water. ie the previous regime of cleaning then prime and gloss, all in one hit, is not ideal.

Thanks. What do you recommend for external wood filler? Weatherboard, mostly ancient, where knots have pinged out, some boards where becoming porous on the surface (or chewed by wasps perhaps,) and some badly holed or split feature blocks. That may be 2 different products required according to the hole sizes. I've used Ronseal and really don't like it for handling or for the ability to smooth or shape it.

I don't know the Toupret product so used your link. The description says it 'does not flash or grin' . That's good to hear, except I don't know what that means in this context. Do you know?

This published Thursday and surprisingly the only mention I've seen of it. Not surprising. Maybe old news regurgitated.

Barely any smell but you'd not want it next to your patio just in case. I've even got one next to an ancient cess tank and even it doesn't smell. Another one serving a 3 chamber, low-tech one does whiff occasionally. This is a different situation to needing an air intake, such as a durgo, to allow the flush to move without a vacuum holding it back.

One of us seems rattled. You may have noticed that I expressed concern and asked the correspondent for more details and advised getting a full design. Then silence. I know it's only been 3 days but the party seemed to be having issue after issue. So I've got better thigs to do. I will duck out of this and be perhaps more useful somewhere else.

Flanagaj has disappeared, as often happens here when we give advice that doesn't suit.

There isn't am emoji for how I feel.

As I had written it in full I am entitled to then use the abbreviation.... but should properly have written them together first time. I'll try harder. Formally about £400 but you will need information on the proposed system. Informally £200 ( a look, a few words and nothing in writing). Very Informally. .. double up the joists bolting new on the side of old. But there could be factors we haven't seen, and your classic car won't be insured if it goes wrong.... and it remains a garage, not any domestic purpose.

I thought it was a spoof story at first, or that moose has other meanings. Egypt had 5 now has 6.... is that news?.. but thanks for sharing.

It shocks some people that agricultural buildings are basically allowed to fail, whether for hay, tractors or living animals. I asked a farmer once if he knew of buildings collapsing, as I hadn't ever heard of it being a problem. He told me it was quite common especially in heavy snow, and was reported in farming journals. might want to have their garage designed with a FOS. It's about 40% in approx terms.

After you've had a look at gantry options, Id be interested to know what you come up with, and we can look at support and fixings. ballast is still possible, but with reinforcement of the joists, which should be quite easy: fixing the same size of timber to the sides wont intrude either.

garages are generally designed without the factors of safety required for a house. So the timbers will be on the light side already. I.e. it's unlikely anyone would die if it collapsed in a storm, and cars don't matter. The snow load will still apply as it can sit on the solar panels, so this is extra load even beford ballast. So the joists will need help. The easiest solution may be to sister the existing ones. But uplift in wind will be the critical force As the oaneks act as a wing and kite. You don't want holes in the roof, quite rightly, so you may need a gantry to spread the load, perhaps strapped to the walls. I'm reinventing the wheel here... there must be a standard way, although don't count on contractors or vendors to know or care. Is it a building regs thing? I'd have to check but I think it is as it's integral with the house. I don't think many people ask, or do it right.

Not strictly true I think, although some councils imply that it is only allowed for small projects. Other councils may say 'should' rather than must. the planning portal use the phrase: "it is perhaps best suited to small work." But it presents a huge risk and you have to be confident of getting everyhing right, and comlying with all regulations and also hoping that the bco agrees with you and your designers. I've done commercial projects worth in the millions on building notice.... sometimes it was the only way to complete the project to the programme required. eg the one where I met the client for the first time, there was no design, their requirements were complex, and they wanted to use it in exactly a year.... and it was on landfill... and they didn't own the site yet... and politics required that we used the local LA, who didn't like being hurried. BUT again. I've had heavy meetings with BCO's flexing their muscles about their personal interpretation of the reg's, and it is scary to think they may stop the job/ want a stair removed etc. Right now we are converting a steel barn, and it is complex and unconventional. Being done on notice with a private bco, but we are a family of Architect and Engineer and being a main contractor, and with a Structural Engineer who can handle the complexity and accept (can I say relish?) that things might change along the way. SO I am being pedantic just for clarity. Full plans is highly recommended / essential for most projects on BH. Perhaps it is sensible that an LA says 'only for small domestic projects' even if not strictly accurate.

Where does it go? Best find another term if presenting this to anyone, Soil specifically means sewage and black water, but I appreciate that merchants use it as a general term for drain pipes. That is indeed a lot of water. It used to fall on the land. Do you know if it drained away or caused any issues? I like to use long french drains if the land allows. ie not clustered together but heading different directions to spread the waterr, but also with more chances to find porous areas or old root voids.

If it wasn't escaping there then it would be coming out of manholes upstream, or from downpipes. You should not send it to the soil pipe, as that is what causes overflows at the sewage works. Have you space for a ditch or pnd?

@flanagaj Could you please answer some fundamental concerns? Otherwise I'm close to losing interest in helping. Have you planning permission? Have you a construction design by Achitect/Engineer/skilled builder? Have you appointed a building inspector? If so are they happy with you? Do you have a thought out plan re construction management and details at interfaces? Do you have builders lined up or is it a sequence of one after another? Im concerned for you.. this could go very wrong indeed. But this forum is for advice not managing your whole project. This is where the Scottish system has its main benefit.. you can't start and make it up as you go. Maybe you should go the "full plans" route too.

Check the compatability. I found last week that soudal cleaner dissolves eps. Also that using soudal foam against eps, it appeared to shrink overnight so I'm thinking the eps may have been absorbing solvent and shrinking.