saveasteading

Very generous. Is that the one i see about £550? How is it over rough terrain, or soft?

@Gus Potter i was only considering building inspectors

Along with a photo looking like my mouth these days.. @Beau I'm impressed how cleanly that came out. Was it slow and painstaking? My concern would be that this is fine for a concrete slab. But in beam and block you could hit a block, which might fracture with a bolt into it, or hit a beam, which is very hard and has tendons in it, which on wouldn't want to cut. But for a stair with only downward leading, you could simply rest on the base with no fixing.

Me please, I said it too. I'm afraid most of us write something casually sometimes: I know I have annoyed without any such intention. Its the nature of the Hub.. we are not writing word perfect theses.

It will be fiddly. I think you need to cut out a square of the screed, without touching the pipes. Then cut down through the pir to expose the structure. Then you will see whether you are on a block or beam. Fro there it is simple to form a concrete plinth up to floor level. The size of the plinth will depend on the stair load and floor capacity, which your SE must advise. OR a large plate that can bear directly on the screed. Again requiring a calculation. That may be ugly or "honest" depending on point of view.

Look in a tiling warehouse and there is a corner dedicated to many options. The upmarket supplier we chose, said we needed it. Contractors suck through their teeth and tell you it's a risk. It's a big market.

He is supplying and including the adhesive and grout. I'm pleased about that because the best tilers in the past have also insisted on this. I once helped one by mixing up the packs, fetching and rotating for him when the pattern was complex. He used very quick setting compound which would have scared me... holding and adjusting a tile with one hand while preparing the next. No spacers or packing. The tile suppliers all seem to want to sell adhesive... but how many tilers are happy with that?

I never came across the slightest hint of corruption. But maybe I don't spot any hints, not thinking that way myself. (I'm forever seeing social media comments blaming everything on 'brown envelopes", presumably from people who would if they could.) However, I have come across ignorance and misplaced self- importance esp in LA inspectors.* It surprises me when I occasionally see on here that a BCO has given a self- builder advice, as they do spot checks, not thorough inspections. My guess re the now required registration is that some authorities or businesses were delegating to juniors or other unqualified staff, so that had to stop. If there was any criticism in Grenfell et al, then I've missed it. * one such young LA chap told me he wasn't accepting block paving in an industrial yard. I asked him why and he blustered some nonsense. So I told him I'd get an Engineer's letter to him. He responded that I needn't bother as they'll write anything they are asked for. I did a how dare you rant, but wished I could have got him sacked. Readers , I was that Engineer but was probably dressed other than he expected. So yes, there need to be standards for a BCO, and I hope they have risen.

Update. I have found no evidence that a decoupling mat provides benefit on a well constructed concrete or screeded floor. Our screed has one tiny visible crack and of course it will stop moving. That on an area of over 300m2. All rooms were already formed in stud, and had foam perimeters so the screed is not stuck ro walls. Had a tiler in to look. He has agreed to quote without a decoupling mat, and will include a flexible adhesive. He has never seen a case of a cracked tiled floor due to absence of mat. Moral I think is: Decoupling mats are for poor quality newbuilds, or a rushed programme or 'peace of mind'. It makes money for the seller and tiler. Btw the tiler also says the dips and ridges that look rough to me are just normal, and part of his job to lose by double buttering. Ie no latex levelling. A good day so far.... now let's see his quote.

Could you explain please, or perhaps its your circumstances? I'm no expert in PH, but surely a big window facing south is going to blow the principles re solar gain?

Seems to be a "Who to complain to" list. Only Architects from the construction industry. How odd. If you work with fluorine gas there seem to be multiple regulating bodies.

It's a strange situation. Architects and others on here may correct me. I'm a Chartered Civil Engineer. If I do a job wrong the consequences could be catastrophic... think building or dam collapsing. So one has to be qualified to be insured. But not registered by law. Meanwhile the term Civil Engineer is used by many a groundworker. Some are good of course. They could not say Architect though or would be in trouble. A Chartered Surveyor who helped our business in claims said only 3 professions were required by their charters to do what was 'right' for society* even if it meant going against their employer's instruction. Medical Doctor, Nurse, Civil Engineer. I've a feeling he said that Surgeons and Structural Engineers didn't have such a requirement either, and certainly not Lawyers, Surveyors, Architects. I've just paid my annual fees so can maybe find what I've signed for. I welcome correction.

My take is rather different. What do you havd and need by way of design knowledge, site control and construction skills? The bco is not your designer or clerk of works. So if you are highly knowledgeable or you have a project manager or main contractor who is, then you have the confidence to proceed and get boxes ticked as you go. The bco will check things that worry them, or that they happen to notice, then sign it off. Either LA or private will suffice. My own preference is private because they have been, in my experience, happy to be team players, whereas LA have wanted to score points.... and hated any answering back. Eg. They ask for the trench to go deeper, and I ask why. They don't know but always say that. But if you are not that experienced, and are sticking to tried and tested construction, then I would say use the LA. Also I'd say to use the full plans process where they agree the design before you start (compulsory in Scotland. )

Gold star. Together we can reduce flooding and fill the aquifer, with a bit of help to nature along the way.

So you are right to part. But there are lots more out there and can be inspirational, and some are good technically which can avoid problems. Up to you of course but that last 5% can be very expensive. Do you want the 'badge' or simply to have an efficient home? Some of the issues are a matter of opinion anyway. But I look forward to your input.

To a soakaway is more sustainable, and perhaps better for your garden, if it's possible.

Have you rainwater filling it? What happens if it overfills in winter?

Understood. And you've got the gas pipe there. If that was me I'd just ensure that you can change over in the future without too much disruption.

Yes, I think the current rule of thumb is to keep gas or oil if already in place but use ashp if all new. That may change according to what happens re the Iran situation. But putting in a gas pipe just in case makes some sense. Have you laid the yellow warning tape above it in the trench? If in doubt, bring it through a 110mm pipe bend and close both off with plastic and sticky tape.

Sorry about the nonsense speak in my first para above. I don't even know how to get that px character. I'm guessing this all happened in my back pocket. Ie I didn't edit and post consciously. What does it even mean? Ignore first paragraph.

It's very tempting to avoid any friction, but you di have to deal with it. The formal letter could be simpler I think.. if they are hard of reading it might just be binned. I believe your proposed works come under the PWA and you could cease all works and commence the PWA process up to you, but certainly get formal now. The friendliness, if you must, can be that you say your insurer requires that you send them this letter. They are liable for all PWA costs and the surveyor is impartial. You pay nothing and do not have to concede land, access, anything. The letter needs to be addressed really to them and dated. And you need proof of delivery so probably recorded delivery. You'll never be friends with them, but they will know not to mess with you. The consequences of not doing this would be much worse. Ohhh. And take lots of photos ASAP of the existing situation. I'm talking of 30 not 3.. from all angles and with closeups.

The cost difference can be significant. Two layers with staggered joints is better than one for insulation and stability. As it is softer eps will compress over any lumps in the floor and reduce gaps and hollows. With diminishing returns as thickness increases the lower eps works quite well. I got the best prices from the local BM, and 100mm was the best value £/mm. Get prices for 100mm and 150mm for both materials, then cost out whether the saving is worthwhile. I'm an expert in cutting it now. Handsaw only useful for 50mm or less. Stanley knife is very quick for 25mm. For 100 and 150mm , jigsaw with blade cutting within 5mm of the thickness, and complete by saw or knife. (Going fast the jigsaw blade wanders off line and verticality: for a few seconds more, the cut is straight. Pir is useless to cut with a handsaw. Eps easier but lots of dust. The professional who did most of the floor used a reciprocating saw but it was rather approximate.

Unless it is likely to be very wet there, I'd consider painting in bitumen. Use Blackjack starting with a diluted (water) coat as it will penetrate cracks and crevices. Then a slightly diluted coat over joints and then everywhere, and then a full gunge one. An extra coat over mortar and at the base too. A tar brush is often best.

Old boy surveying enhineer here. Age can help. Grounds how he uses þx terms aurveycand engineer (overused and oftenvabused, I say protectively.) All the advice above is very good. You really do need expert advice, and what you have so far seems sensible. You may be able to dig new foundation inside the garage slab. Breaker and some very hard work with a spade but a good labourer can dig 1m3/ hour.... if you can find one that accepts hard work. Thar way the wet end if the beam will become redundant. Big IF. I'm assuming the beams are not supporting the structure above. The wetness is another matter and there are cellar solutions.

Thanks for this. I'm not convinced on this argument but as i don't know much about these screeds I need to do homework. It does not have fibre. I've gone off fibre anyway as it clumps and is very inconsistent. It is a gypsum product, pumped. 49% club... I don't understand. Brilliant info: I was going to look into this principle. Cracks will be about 0.1mm and will refill with dust. Even if they did somehow open or close again, it would need a minuscule movement in the adhesive... and the grout should give way first. Quite right. In such cases I would often explain the perceived risk with the client, and often they took the saving. It could still be awkward if there was a problem, whatever the contract says. But it's for ourselves using the pension I've saved by making such decisions for decades. i. e. Questioning almost everything, especially the standard ways of doing things that nobody can justify. These are usually "trade" things where they say its best but hsve nil justifiication. Most radical experijents have been on ourselves. Some haven't been ideal but no dramas and usually it's fine. Strangely I see that the ufh pipes are mostly visible by having 1mm or so ridge over them. I'm thinking this has been by displacement of the screed after partial setting, and being walked on. But cracking is only visible in one place I've noticed, though if it's like concrete, there will be millions of tiny cracks/crazing. They didn't put crack inducers at doors and there are no cracks there, which suggests shrinkage is miniscule. I will research further.