Alex

many thanks that's good to hear. 2x 6x2's it is then. ?

thanks, that would also be my plan, glue and bolt them together with m10 or m12 bolts and probably add some nails for good measure! It's just trying to figure out the smallest timber size that can be joined that will work for a 4m span.

Hi All, Am just planning a Garden Room / Gym which is planned to be 6m x 4m internal. The issue I'm having is that to keep the height within permitted development I'm struggling with keeping the roof make up thin enough. Based on the 4m span from what I understand 2x8 or 2x10 at 400 centres would be fine. However this takes me over the max height limit and I don't really want to drop ceiling height inside. Would using doubled up 2x5 or 2x6 timbers work instead of the bigger timbers? I can't find span tables that show what are basically 4x5 or 4x6 roof joists.

I'm pretty much open to any options that solve the problem, it's then a question of space/location and the usual one of Cost.

as @JSHarris said above the sizing is to get around actual capacity of around 200 to 250ltr. this would give me about 15 mins (ish) where we could be running 2 showers at the same time plus the odd basin/kitchen tap. Key goal is catering for morning rush when kids are getting ready and we're also trying to get going at the same time. the main plumbing runs are all 28mm and then drops down to 15mm in each bathroom for cistern/shower/basin. I have 32mm MDPE coming in from mains. I have 15lpm @ 2.8bar incoming from mains.

thanks @JSHarris I'm assuming you've also lagged the pipes as the go into / out of the shed to house? This would be an option as I have a space next to air source heat pump that won't be seen from any windows and the mains in to house come in just the opposite of the house wall at this point. Did you just buy a off the shelf shed an insulate it (floor/wall/roof) or did you build a custom one? Just thinking what might be easier/cost effective! @PeterW pipework is all done so only options I have is in the small room where the cylinder is and which is where the mains comes into the house as house before it disappears off to bathrooms/wc/kitchen/laundry/etc. Yes have restrictors on taps. I haven't thought about changing shower head though to be a low flow option... that would help a bit. I think I will need the accumulator option though as have turf going down and will need to water that and that's going to play havoc as our outside taps are basically spurred off the kitchen and laundry room feeds.

Hi All, I've been told that to solve the issue I have I need to install an accumulator. Basically if you're in a shower and someone flushes the loo and then turn on basin tap whilst cistern filling the shower pretty much stops! The problem I've got is that I don't really have any space to accommodate a decent sized accumulator. (I've been told a 400/500ltr would be about the right size) Does anyone have any advice on installing accumulators outside? or are there ones made specifically for external installation? I've googled but not come up with much so far so I thought I'd try you guys! :-) Any / all advice or alternative options welcome as need to solve this quite soon as I'm getting loads of grief about it! Cheers A.

hi @lizzie just wondered how that film is working for you. I have a glazed gable that is causing overheating and am looking into options.

I ended up moving the stud wall slightly and running it under a joist. I insulated the wall with rookwool slabs and I also put rockwool either side of the joist. I didn't do with the design as shown by @Temp above but did double board on both sides.

I spent just over £1k on rebar on my nudura build, with my blocks coming in at £22k. This is for a 170m2 footprint chalet bungalow and 65m2 garage/workshop. For me biggest lintel was 5m wide using lots of 20mm bar plus joining stirrups, but most was 15mm bar. I can't remember exactly without digging out invoices but I think I used about 450m of bar.

I used the Nudura one. I also used it in strips for the wall to PIR under rafters junction. Works well, but you have to ensure the eps of the block is clean, dust free and dry! First time I used it I hadn't cleaned the wall enough and it didn't stick, but after a dry brush, damp cloth and allowed to dry worked well. The longer the blocks are out in sunshine you get a small amount of dusting on the block surface, so the longer (ie months) they're exposed the more brushing and cleaning needed. If fresh from delivery a quick wipe and dry and good to go. Easy to cut with a new Stanley blade and a straight edge.

how big a panel? Could something like this be made to work? https://www.energybulbs.co.uk/kosnic+12w+2d+4-pin+led+-+cool+white/465781742

I have found a joiner on ebay whose price is similar to other quotes (approx £95 a tread) and uses engineered oak treads. pictures look ok but I'm always nervous when using ebay!! especially when its spending nearly £1500 on treads and apron and delivery...

Hi all, just wondering whether anyone has sourced Oak stair treads and have any recommendations. I'm building my own open riser staircase and need 12 x 60mm treads. Have talked to a couple of local joiners down here (Devon) and have got wildly differing quotes or aren't interested in quoting which I find odd! thanks Alex

in my case the extract for mvhr is on the wall and no way to get to that point now. is theory you wouldn't need to with recirculating.... so long as it clears out grease/smells/moisture...