ETC

Agree.

https://www.asbestosspecialist.co.uk/specialists-in-asbestos-across-ireland/ G&L definitely.

@Danv

And how cheap is super cheap? - what kind of dough are we talking? Asking for a friend😆😁

Give it a go! - and post your drawings.

Don’t forget that since this will now become a three-storey house you will have to consider more onerous fire safety measures which will add to the cost.

I suspect that your BCO and engineer will want you to go down to the bottom of the existing house foundation for the bottom of your new foundation - that is where the good ground was located when the house was built and presumably still is. If the house is relatively new your local BC should have a record of the depth the original trenches were excavated to. Ask them. Looking at the drawing and the photograph it looks like you have a suspended ground floor structure - this could suggest that the ground wasn’t good enough for a ground bearing slab or for a shallow strip foundation. My advice would be to get your engineer and your local BCO out and for them to advise you on your next step. Your BCO will want to inspect the ground before you pour concrete and he/she will more than likely take advice from your SE. Don’t panic it can be sorted out.

Having an interior designer is like having a personal shopper spend all your money on sh*t you don’t need, don’t like and will never use in a month of Sundays. Oh and don’t forget the “iconic” piece of furniture that we found in a flea market in Hong Kong which we shipped x thousands of miles that we “just thought was typically you” which will go with the £1000m2 roll of gold wallpaper from Venice hung by a trio of Italian circus tumblers. Not for me thanks.

1. Where’s the en-suite? 2. Coming through the building is no big deal but can be avoided by going around. I don’t see the problem in doing this and would be my preferred route. 3. Is the pipe shown going through the extension a combined drain, a storm drain or a foul drain? And I presume it’s a drain that collects waste from your neighbours - a good reason not to go through the extension if at all possible. 4. Ask your BCO for advice and what he/she will accept. I suspect that as long as you can comply with Approved Document H you should be fine. Lintels in sub-floor blockwork where the pipe passes through should be acceptable to BC. 5. I suspect the plan needs another IC where the new drainage pipe changes direction before connecting to the new MH on the existing drainage line.

Don’t forget that where you have to pass the drainage pipe through the extension: The foundations for your new extension will most likely need to be at the same level as the house foundations. You will only have to stop the foundations each side of the drainage pipe and use lintels across the foundation where the drainage pipe is at the same level as the foundations. However: The drainage pipe will more than likely be above the level of the foundations and if this is the case all you need to do is pass the pipe through the sub-floor walls with lintels over the top.

I can’t believe that you don’t have the space for the drainage down the side of the extension. Speak to your BC about placing a drain less than 1m from the foundations and what the BR recommend. Alternatively if you are using strip foundations speak to your BCO about stopping the foundation each side of the proposed drainage pipe and using simple pc lintels over each pipe in the sub-floor blockwork. The drawings you posted look like you are building over a culvert. I presume the pipe you need to go from the top to the bottom is 110mm diameter?

DPC and insulation required at the junction of the new and old wall constructions. Normally wall starter kits used or full cavity opened so that the cavities and insulation is continuous.

Tell him to connect the waste to a soil stack and connect the stack to the foul drainage system. Do not connect to the ACO drain. It is purely for rain water - nothing else.

“Building regs is another matter, but I presume that things like removing asbestos and replacing like-for-like timber is fine.” Speak to your local BCO. There is very little that you can do without BC approval.

I’m not that keen on the rear elevation and I think the gable should either be centred or to one side. I didn’t want to deviate from your original plan to much but I think there is scope to get either a central or side return to the back.

Green is reduced floor area and pink is added floor area.

I tried to stick as far as I could with your original plan - just making a few tweeks here and there. I’ve posted your plans with mine above so you should be able to see the differences.

My attempt.

Foam? Madness…..

Why? The cost and hassle to step the wall heavily outweighs the look of a gutter and soffit/fascia overhang. And in any case the verge could be flush with no need to go past the wall.

If you never see the copings why bother?