ProDave

I would have said inverter fault as both strings seem to show the same voltage. I would also swap the strings over, and to be really safe wait until after dark to do that just in case you touch the wrong thing, And see if tomorrow the fault shows on the same string, in which case it is an inverter problem, or the fault moves to the other side in which case it is a panel or wiring fault.

If you just put water pipes into en existing un insulated screed it will be pretty ineficcient with most of the heat going down into the ground.

Making the sructural alterations to the roof for the dormers would have required building regs even if it was still just a store room. That is more likely what the buyer and their lender will be bothered about. I am surprised the builder did not mention that, he should have known. Often it's possible to "solve" this with an indemnity policy but ONLY if you have not tried to resolve it with building control. Talk to your solicitor about offering that option first before doing any more.

If you want to split the labour, I would say the plumber has to fit the shower former as he has to connect the waste to it. If he is not comfortable with the tanking kit, get the tiler to do that. It's also best not to fit the tanking kit until you are about to tile, less chance for it getting damaged if there is a long wait.

Our local tiler will do the tanking if you want him to. But it is not difficult. You could do it yourself it you wanted. http://ardross.altervista.org/Wilowburn/bathroom-wet-room-floor/ That's an Impey shower former and tanking kit.

I don't like to silicone a hob down, your might never get it out in one piece. but I DO seal the cut edges of the hole in thew worktop so if any water does get through it won't bugger it.

I tried that with plasterboard screws. They have some coating which tastes horrible.....

Someone trying to box a pipe in. Photo please?

No not massive, much less than the difference between radiators and UFH for instance.

Out last house has UFH ustairs and down. Upstairs has carpets, downstairs solid floors. Yes the upstaits UFH will take longer to heat up with carpets so just allow for that in your programable thermostat settings.

I am not understanding the question. Each house will require it's own supply cable and it is up to the network operator how they achieve that. The larger cable is more about reducing volt drop and impedance than anything else. They will fit a cable they deem meets anticipated needs. You might get a slightly cheaper connection price of all houses are connected at once, but then again you might not. Be carefull YOU are not paying for the full cost of the new run, only to find other then tap into it much cheaper than you. Many of us have put the meter box near or on the boundary and ran our own cable from there to the house.

We considered wall hung, but honestly I could not see the benefit of the huge extra cost just for not having the pan touch the floor. I absolutely "get" back to wall pans, but just don't "get" wall hung. I guess it is a personal choice.

Well I did a reasonably accurate costing to try and work out how we are going to finance the last bit, we have spent about £200K with another £20K to go. So I guess that puts me pretty well at the 90% done stage, so only 90% left to do then. Purely on the basis of finance, half way did not even get us to a wind and watertight shell, that is probably more like 75%

What is needed is a change of attitude. Yes it is hot here, but I don't see my water usage increasing massively. I don't feel the need to water the grass, it has pretty well stopped growing just now, why would I want to change that? I don't see the need to clean my car more often. We don't see the need to have a paddling pool. I might shower more often but that is it. So perhaps a hosepipe ban is what is needed to stop people making bad decisions and simply wasting water?

What you should do is come out of your isolator into a short bit of copper then into this for you flexi to fix to https://www.screwfix.com/p/male-coupler-15mm-x/69358 That will give you a flat surface for the washer to seat to. If you put the flexi straight onto the isolator, the washer will be seating on a much narrower edge where it is tapered to fit an ollive. Having said that one of my basins is working just fine straight onto the isolator.

Do they need to see the empty trench? Put your pipe in, fill most of the trench and leave just the ends exposed?

This temperature thing is funny. Yesterday we were under the harr all day so it was cool outside. The house felt a nice cool comfortable place. 23 degrees inside the house. Today The sun is shining. Inside the house feels hot and uncomfortable. Temperature 23 degrees. Explain that one.

I wired one 18 months ago that was in a tiny loft of a mostly vaulted roof. I said at the time it would be impossible to get to to service the filters but nobody seemed to care. What you (or somebody) needs to do is make a walkway from the loft hatch to the unit (when you find it) so you (o someone) can get to it to change or clean the filters. I would leave this until the autumn. You will find people "less than enthusiastic" at wanting to do an awkward job in a very hot loft in this weather.

Someone over ordered. They won't do any harm left there. You could offer them on freecycle on the basis the collector gets them down from the loft (and if they put their foot through the ceiling pay for the repair)

Cheap fire rated downlights at Screwfix https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-fixed-fire-rated-led-downlight-gloss-white-220lm-2-5w-240v/3701f?_requestid=233988 It has to be a pricing error, fire rated downlight complete with LED lamp for under £3 Just bought some, stock up while it lasts.

It always used to be that if you rotated them all the way, there was a slide bolt in the top (that is now the bottom) that slides across to hold it there. I have not looked in detail at recent ones so they might have deleted that useful feature. Edit: Still there. From the Velux website

If you are SURE it's not going to rain, pivot it all the way round as if you were going to clean the outside of the glass and put the bolt across. But if it rains like that.........

Here are the long awaited photos of that floor. Battens, UFH and start of the biscuit mix And the oak flooring laid More pictures on the blog, look for the entry "Under Floor Heating and Oak flooring"

I am beginning to wish you were in the Highlands. I would come and relieve you of them and find a good use for them. If you really want them gone, put them on freecycle. I am still in "collecting mode" so far this week I have "recovered" 2 sheets of reinforcing mesh for concrete (didn't you have some of that spare) , and at least a full sheets worth of kingspan offcuts from various skips.

Or in direct sunlight for much of the day