ProDave

Architraves and skirting will probably be Howdens Oak veneer.

That poses the question what to to at the edges? that pesky 5mm or so that will show, the bit the architrave does not cover?

Don't throw it out. I will still need that, but it is not as high on my list, i.e will wait until later more easily than door frames. We will be making at least 2 trips down south this year so there may be a deal to do.

Can he stop the leak just by tightening the nut on the stuffing gland?

And don't forget things like at a corner the unit is NOT 600mm out, and then add decor end panels, trim panels for some details etc and all is not mm perfect as you might wish. Why not go to a kitchen supplier and get them to model it? Even Howdens will do this for you adding all the details and odd amounts for all the details. They will do it for free with no obligation to buy.

The 0.44 us an imperial measure in unspecified units.

2040 door plus a gap at top and bottom probably means 2060 door frame. Boards are 1900 long, so joint would be 160 above the floor.. Howdens oak veneer skirting which is probably what I will use is 120mm, so can't make the joint line up.

That would probably be least noticeable.

Very true. My 2 internal load bearing walls either side of the stair well are also for racking strength, and for that reason covered on one side in OSB before the plasterboard.

A flaw in this plan, is the floor boards are only 1900mm long and the doors 2040mm tall, so each side of the door frames would need a joint. The boards do have tongue and groove joints at the ends but it would make it stand out as what it is.

Possibly, again something to try on a small offcut to see how deep the original coating goes and how much would be left.

In the time since my past reply, I have taken a short offcut and planed both sides to get the correct width and it might work. The issue would be gerring the finish right. The top surface is pre treated and laquered with a matt finish. I would need to find something to treat the exposed planed and sanded edges to be a reasonable match. This will be one possible solution that I will offer when the joiner is here. I have enough left over floor boards to do almost half what I need, and would need to buy another 2, possibly 3 packs of that to finish off, which would be considerably cheaper. I would then just need to buy the small section oak for the door stops.

The joiner will be visiting one night this week and I will see what he says. One "off the wall" idea is use the oak flooring we have. That is 20mm thick engineered oak and 190mm wide so would do the whole width in one. I have some left over and could easily get some more if needed for a lot less than the cost of planed solid oak. The only issue is at the edges, there is only 6mm of oak as the top oak layer is 6mm thick. As long as the architrave covered all the soft wood structure and only left that 6mm showing it might work? I must go and plane and sand an offcut to size and see what it would look like. Anyone come across stock sized oak veneer that might work?

Our house has oak flooring, and oak kitchen worktop. I have just bought oak doors throughout, they were expensive enough as SWMBO saw some nice ones. So it stands to reason, nice oak doors will go into nice oak door liners won't they? The issue is compounded by the fact most of the doors will be fitting into 180mm wide walls (load bearing internal walls) So the plan was to make the door liners on site, using 20*70 and 20* 120 planed white oak butted together with the door stop covering the joint. Obviously planed to exact size on site. Then I started getting prices. For 10 doors, mostly single, but 2 double pairs, I will need 21 2.1 metre lengths of each, plus a much smaller section for the door stop. Jewaons £602 plus VAT TP can't get any "up here" Wood Stock £633 plus VAT I have tried a number of on line suppliers including Brisish Hardwoods, and they are all coming out even higher. To put this into perspective, this is going to cost about half the price of expensive doors, just to make the frames for them to go in. Or put it another way I could have bought cheap oak doors for less than the cost of making the frames. What am I doing wrong? What alternatives are there? Now thinking if you can get oak veneered wood in similar sizes? For each length only 2 "good" faces are needed, one face and 1 edge, and perhaps still solid oak for the door stop? The only issue is where the hinges and door locks are cut in would have to be done very well. Any thoughts please? I have to get this cost down, it is just silly at the moment.

I have dome mine E/W for that reason, to try and make a longer, but lower generation period each day to better the chances of self usage.

But it wasn't the computer that said no, it was the person dealing with the notification. I think they saw 4KW of panels and just got stuck into thinking it was not a G83/2 system, even though both the drawing, and the information on the form said that the inverter was G83/2 compliant. I have to admit when I first had that response, part of me said oh bugger why the hell did I try and do the right thing and notify it?

A cheap old touring caravan would be a solution. I might have just such a 'van for sale soon but it is still in use for storage. Like others I advised the toilet in our old house was available, but most just went behind a tree for a pee.

Like @JSHarris our house has 2 internal supporting walls either side of the stairwell (in many ways it is a similar house layout). They serve 2 purposes, firstly to support the 11 metre long ridge beam, and secondly to minimise joist spans by allowing the joists to span the width of the rooms. These were the only internal walls supplied by the builders. All the other non load bearing internal walls were built by me and could have been metal if I had wanted. If we had tried to get a shell built with no internal walls at all, then the joists would have had to span front to back making them longer and bigger, and you would still have to find a way to support that ridge beam. So by all means ask the designer to minimise the number of load bearing walls as much as reasonably possible and then only supply and erect the kit with just the load bearing walls. The other thing I did to "simplify" the build was I stipulated no sleeper walls downstairs. The initial design had sleeper walls to help support the ground floor joists, but I argued the upstairs joists can span that gap with no intermediate support, so specify downstairs joists than can as well.

So I sent my documentation, the comissioning form they wanted all filled in, and a drawing of the system. The drawing was accurate and showed that I have 16, 250W panels making a total of 4KW The drawing also stated the inverter was G83/2 compliant. The reply that came back from SSE was telling me this is a G59 system, it needs a network upgrade and they have opened a job and there will be a cost even for just a quotation for the works, and it must not be connected until this work has been done. I replied back sending them both the user manual for the inverter stating it's maximum output was 3.68KW and I also found the declaration of conformance from the manufacturer stating it was G83/2 compliant. This information was of course already provided on their comissioning sheet that I filled in. They replied this morning saying they have cancelled that job request and "updated their records" so I assume they now accept that it is G83/2 compliant and have registered it on the network. I think the lesson from this is a G83/2 system is simple, if only they had read the form properly, but anything more is very much more complicated and there may be costs involved. In the case of @Stones who will be doing similar, with only 1.5KW of panels, I can't see them having this "confusion" and that is likely to be accepted without query.

Structurally, easy to fix to an ICF structure. Then just 2 legs down to 2 concrete pads.

That's an image I am now struggling to get out of my head

Were you not worried about getting the digger stuck in there? Look on you Tube to find them sunk without a trace.

And it will be horendous for air tightness and even when not is use heat will constantly go up the chimney. Fit a stove with a sealed flue, and ideally ducted air intake straight from outside (i.e.room sealed)

We regularly buy the look alike Rich Tea biscuits from Lidl for a fraction the price of the "real thing" They dunk just as well,

So tell me, just what is the point of a "juliet balcony"? How often are you likely to open the door and stand there? What I am getting at, is do it properly, like we are, and make a proper balcony you can walk out onto, have a table and chairs, and sit out there. The only people I know with a Juliet balcony, intended a proper balcony but ran out of money, and had to do something because there was s door there, and building control needed something to stop it being a suicide door.