ProDave

I think if we decided to sell, I would not be trying to emphasise anything like "near passive house" I would just be highlighting the EPC A. Buyers are only just starting to take note of the EPC having been ignoring them for years, then wondering why their EPC F house costs a fortune to heat and suffers from damp and mould.

It is a shame you were not here to ask before it was installed. A thermal store is not really a good companion for an ASHP. To get any meaningful hot water capacity, the water stored in the thermal store needs to be quite a bit hotter than the water temperature you want at the taps. That will force the ASHP to work harder with a poorer COP and possible less output power. Then radiators for the heating. Are these new larger radiators? If not you will be trying to run those very hot as well which again is not what you want with an ASHP What about an accurate heat loss calculation of the house? What was done and by who? What heating was there before? you would get a pretty good idea of heat loss by historical usage of the previous heating system.

Is this extension "work in progress"? What will happen when it is complete? The flue will have to be properly re routed or the boiler moved.

If it is a grid tied inverter, then the inverter WILL produce as much power as it can and any not used within the house WILL be exported to the grid. Are you talking of a totally off grid system? Probably with batteries?

But it can drop from +10 in the day to -10 overnight and in a passive house you will hardly notice the temperature inside the house fall overnight. I suspect your architect has never spent time living in a passive house?

Unplugged the hoover and plugged the server back in?

Perhaps they screwed up a server backup or restore?

I am only just getting the address does not exist, which is not the browser telling me it cannot find the address, but rather a bit of html that displays that message, so the browser is finding something. Website hacked?

My usual bookmark gets me "Address does not exist.

I just take the view that the supply head normally says "100A" being the rating of the fuse carrier. It is unusual to have a label to say what actual fuse is in there and of course it is sealed. So I have no qualms fitting an 80A fuse after it. Lets be honest if something bad has happened to blow your 80A fuse it does not really matter if the DNO's fuse has gone as well, they will come and replace it and re seal. You are not going to overload anything or make a dangerous situation.

That's my view. the reason for your fuse, is the supplier says you can only rely on their fuse if the CU is within 3 metres of the supply head. So you fit your own fuse. Lets be honest, if your cable is designed and installed properly, it is not going to suffer damage that would blow the fuse.

I would just go with the 80A switch fuse. How do you know it's an 80A fuse in the supply head you should not be pulling it to look?

I would buy Kwikstage, Cuplock or a similar "system" can make anything from a single tower to full house very easy, much easier that traditional scaffold.

It's a handy "windsock" when on the firth on our boat.

I take it when the neighbour refused to share the cost of removing the stump, you just removed the bit on your side?

The alternative as at least one regular member does with a willis heater, is calculate the required heat input based on weather forecast, and adjust the turn on time to give the required amount of heat (turn off time remains when the off peak rate finishes)

"Beds in sheds"

That's fire alarm cable. Us the "earth/screen" core as 0V and interference should not be an issue. So why did the electrician tell you he was using a 4 core cable and then fitted a 2 core & earth?

Find a stove you like then look at the manufacturers instructions to see the diameter of the inlet pipe. If it is marginally larger than what you have, ask them if it will be sufficient.

Try approaching plumbers and electricians not "heat pump specialists" you will comfortably buy a heat pump for £4K so say £6K installed. I am in the Highlands. You don't get much colder winters in the UK than here and mine just works. Maintenance is a check over that you can do yourself and they only actually need "work" if they break down. What is your actual problem? You have to keep adjusting the temperature so is the problem the house overheats? i.e. lack of basic controls like room thermostats? Turning down the boiler temperature won't make it more efficient with a resistance heater like it will with an ASHP.

How the other half live. I have just counted up the total here, 19, that's all hot, all cold, all toilets, and the outside taps.

What does this wall back onto? Can you see the outside? Or is this the outside I am looking at?

That looks to me like the bad patch has been infilled, different brick and coursing. Was there a window before? Is the mortar wet? or dry and crumbling?

Good job it was only the sink.

Just about. The air intake duct on my 5kW stove is 80mm diameter.