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Tom

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Everything posted by Tom

  1. The PV generation has already gone through the generating meter, so I will be paid for it AND by diverting it I get to use it as well - isn't that how it works? Question though: what are the implications of the new smart meter doing net metering? Am I right in thinking any export to the grid essentially spins the meter backwards, so why divert any to an immersion, just use imported power to run the ASHP?
  2. Thanks Joth, I'm just thinking in winter when generation will be minimal I still want to capture as much as I can
  3. Hi All - I'm going a bit cross-eyed trying to work out how best to do this and would really appreciate some advice. I've tried searching but can't find anything that fits. So, the situation is this: - we have approx 13kW of solar PV on the roof now and due to be connected up next week - we are on a good (old) feed in tariff - we have 3 phase going in to the property, next week Octopus will be coming to fit a new 3 phase smart meter - the same day another electrician is coming to hook up the PV to the consumer unit - we have an ASHP with 300L cylinder - I have already bought an Eddi diverter, hoping to send excess generation to the immersion I asked the ASHP installer the question and was told: "It depends on whether your energy supplier uses Net Metering for your 3-phase supply. To make use of excess across all 3-phases you need to install an Harvi plus 3x CT clamps, set it to 3-phase mode and then set Net Metering on. Then your Eddi will calculate the total export for all 3-phases and operate even though there may be no excess on the phase to which it is connected, so it will virtually but not actually consume excess on the other phases. Go into advanced setting, supply, then check for net metering" Am I right in thinking the Harvi will monitor all 3 phases, if any one or more of them are exporting it will trigger the Eddi to divert the same amount of power (from whichever phase it is hard-wired to) to the immersion? I guess that only works with net metering though? Does anyone know if Octopus do net metering - and if not is there any way to divert all three phases? Thanks all
  4. You can buy foam fillers with a notch cut out of each "hump" - or just cut a similar notch in the ones you already have. You can also buy ones with wire mesh in them.
  5. Don't be put off by the woodburning stove naysayers, if you want a stove, go for it. Just get one with a ducted air supply, or forget the MVHR. All new installs by law must have a CO alarm anyway.
  6. This pretty much makes the MVHR pointless. Can you not just get a different stove which can take a ducted air supply?
  7. What does she say about your hammer function?
  8. I DO have a pair, I believe my wife keeps them in a drawer 😔
  9. Not sure they'd be man enough for porcelain tbh. I've used them on ceramic in the past though, and worked well
  10. Thanks all. I like the look of the erbauer guide but think I'll try the ply offcut method - not that I've got massive balls though, more that I'm massively tight
  11. Hi all - I need to drill a few 22mm holes in porcelain tiles that are already fixed down. Any recommendations for a bit to use for the job? Using them wet or dry make much difference? https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-diamond-tile-drill-bit-22mm-x-80mm/51759?tc=EA4&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwydSzBhBOEiwAj0XN4IE3Cru0MOS9d8uWcNMrIZCxF4tpkF6zKDXy4_2HiuQqDWm7vgQTYBoCBQcQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Absolutely do not under any circumstances want to crack a tile!
  12. I think 600mm was about right tbh. As long as you tie them down they shouldn't spread.
  13. Yep, I second that. Just flip the cap off with a screwdriver and then pinch the tek-screw up. Quicker and easier to use an impact driver than a spanner, but make sure you don't overtighten and crush the washer.
  14. - oh yes, and PIR insulation under the floor. Added this after the first winter!
  15. Presume you're going for second hand, in which case they'll likely be 10+yrs old by then and if they've lasted that long they'll last another few years for your build. Ours was a 20yrs old "Atlas Moonstone" but has been well maintained and had new carpets and DG windows etc in when we got it. I did a few mods that has made it more comfortable though, log burner, thermostatic shower mixer etc
  16. If that's an actual picture of one of your fixings, and not just a picture from the net, then it doesn't look like it's tight enough against the panel. The EPDM washer needs to be snug but not crushed.
  17. if you're lucky
  18. The walls and the slab - the slab is suspended They did
  19. 200mm thick slab, but the heat aint going anywhere but up, there's 400mm of insulation beneath it.
  20. Zip-tyed to the lower layers, all 1km of it, what fun. Not sure tying to the underside of the upper layers would have been possible anyway TBH.
  21. This is the first two layers in, UFH pipes on top of that, then you might just be able to make out the deck chairs we then used to sit the remaining layers on. There were big sheets, which were an absolute nightmare to handle, but we just about got in to the swing of it by the end!
  22. Tell me about it @saveasteading, we had FOUR layers of A393 mesh in our slab Are you using mesh panels with flying ends? Makes lapping them simple so you don't get a build up.
  23. I bought a similar but less expensive one off eBay IIRC, it has a bigger "sled" than the one above, and a long bendable blade to put in it. Perfect for chasing out the polystyrene for my downpipes. It was worth it's weight in gold in the end - and as Conor says it's small money in the grand scheme of things.
  24. Not if I sell the old panels and they're reused elsewhere
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