Tom

Hmmmm, I think you're all probably right. What's different about the containers used at some self-store places?

So, we'll be moving in to a static on-site soon (as long as the house sale goes through), looking at probably January. We'll need to store lots of general house stuff, sofas, beds etc and are lucky that we have quite a few agricultural barns in which to do this. However it's all fairly damp, not rain-damp, more cold slabs and bare earth sort of damp. I've thought about buying a shipping container which I think would do the trick, but they are not cheap and I was wondering if any one had any other ideas. I've been looking at car port things, like a plastic marquee with zip-up door etc - but haven't found one with a floor, and this is the critical thing really. Any ideas?

Gus, thanks for your detailed reply mate, however what we're looking at getting is a twin unit, which is designed to join together and give you a 20ft wide lodge with pitched roof. Each half has the same metal chassis as a standard static and seem to be levelled with adjustable stands at various critical points. If I was going down the route as you suggested I can see that costing £2k as it sounds quite involved - but for a unit that is designed to fit together in the first place the quote just seems a bit steep. Can I ask re the MOT grades though, I have been told Type 3 to allow good drainage, but you mention Type 1. Am I right in thinking Type 1 is a lot finer? When would you use one and not t'other?

We have virtually no flat land anywhere so plan to level a good sized area near to the build (where the services already are) and put down 100mm Type 3 well compacted - I've been told that this should be sufficient (what do you think?). Each half is on wheels, same as a standard static, so should be possible to move relatively easily but can imagine getting them to line up well will be tricky - but two thousand pounds worth of tricky?!

Hi all - we're trying to sort out our on-site accommodation now that our house sale seems to be going through and we'll be homeless soon. Access is narrow - 12ft gateways, but only just, so we are limited to 10ft wide realistically. We're looking at twin lodges that come in two 10ft wide sections and are then joined back together. We're getting transport and siting quotes but the figures being thrown around for "siting" i.e leveling and joining the two together are £2000+ - which seems a lot of money to me. What exactly is involved? Is it reasonably DIY-able? Leveling is presumably just a bottle jack and stands, then joining together I guess with bolts and perhaps some repairs to roofing felt, inside some cosmetic tarting up, relaying floor etc. Is that right or am I underestimating the amount of work involved?

Hi Bart The biorock sounds good on paper, but I'm not sure it has stood up to scrutiny, and I've certainly read some bad reports. The other two realistic options are a mechanical type like the biodisc - which has too many moving parts- or one relying on an air blower, which seems far more simple and efficient in my opinion. I liked the idea of a diamond shape as it just seems to make more sense - more efficient recirculation of water and suspended solids compared to a drum shape like the Vortex which I'm guessing must allow crud to collect in the corners. As for the choice of which diamond shaped one, there's probably no more than a fag paper between them tbh.

Hmm, so on a run of 90m - treatment plant at one end, stream at the other - I wouldn't have to have an inspection chamber somewhere?

Just found this for anyone interested in a Buck Rogers sink: https://www.stainlessdirectuk.com/product/zen10-1100-options/

That is quite literally the Buck Rogers of sinks. Do you have any more info on it's constuction? One big trough?

We're planning to use the Galeco system in our build (for now at least), as ever the devil will be in the detail to get it to work as designed. Does anyone know whether it is actually approved for use in the UK? Appropriate certification etc? Our architect couldn't find any but we're gonna give it a go anyway.

Grand, thanks all.

Just found a PDF version of Part H building regs for foul drainage (for future reference: https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/442889/BR_PDF_AD_H_2015.pdf), says manholes need to be 45m apart on a run (I think), so looks like I would potentially only need one in the middle of the run of approx 80m. No mention of max gradient though - any ideas?

Yep, runs 365 Joe.

Thanks Dave. Is there a maximum gradient? As an estimate the field is about a 1/10 I reckon.

So, we're going to be installing our sewage treatment plant soon as we'll need it to connect to the caravan when we move to the site and start the build. Had all the percolation tests etc, FD1 done etc etc Think we're going to go for the Conder (toss up with the Bio Pure, Conder won in the end as it just looks a bit more substantial tbh), and it will need to discharge down a run of buried pipe down a slope to a stream about 80m away. I've been trying to find info on how exactly this should be done: depth of trench, depth of pea shingle, inspection chambers, rodding points etc, but not getting very far. It's essentially a straight run down a field (that's ours). Can I ask for some pointers? Thanks all

I've been pondering the same question recently. We are going to be using Nudura and want a powerfloated slab with UFH as the final floor finish on the largest section of our build. The problem as I see it with powerfloating is it needs to be done while the slab is still going off, so potentially we have our "final" floor finish essentially being used as a building site, which isn't ideal. With polishing at least you would be grinding off the top layer with all the fag butts and Ginsters crumbs... ? I'm currently thinking we'll try to leave the floor to do as late as possible - at least until the walls are up (and the walls can then be braced against the oversite), then it can be protected to a certain extent with a temporary cover for first and second fix etc.

Yep, I'll cross that bridge when it comes to it (though what's that expression about it being easier to ask for forgiveness than permission?...). First thing though is to get somewhere to stay in for ourselves.

Drainage is ok, but it's a sloping site and will need a fair amount of earth scraping away to make level. At least compacted hardcore would be easier to dig up again when needed - think that night be the best option.

Got pp, so all good. I just added a paragraph in the planning statement. Agree a massive slab makes everything look more permanent though. The second hand lodges I've been looking at seem to be Cosalt or Pinelog models, all ex-holiday park and are residential spec (whatever that means) with double glazing and central heating etc. Seem to be fairly substantial.

Hi all, we're trying to sort out our onsite accommodation as we'll be homeless in a few months. Initially we were thinking a static - but the max width we can fit through gateways etc is only 10ft, the novelty of which I think would wear off quite quickly. I've now started to look at twin lodges, which come in two 10ft wide sections. This would give us somewhere comfortable to live, then we could move it away from the house after the build and use it possibly for airbnb/family etc - something which is a bit more desirable in a lodge than a static. I'm trying to sort out what sort of groundworks I need to support a lodge. I've been told that a slab is preferable, due to the risk of the two halfs moving relative to each other. Has anyone done this for a lodge before? Would the slab need to be reinforced (it would need to be at least 20'x30')? Ideally we would like something with less of a footprint as it will be sited in a field - are smaller footings at various points a reasonable compromise? Thanks all

Seems like the best option, cheers Temp. Anyone out there used floor sockets in their own build and wants to share some pics?

We're planning a power floated concrete floor as the finished surface, and would like floor sockets. Has anyone used these in a concrete floor? Our architect is worried about cracking around the socket, but I'm sure this must be possible to do without. Any hints/tips? Thanks all

It wouldn't be a totally new dwelling in the country though, it's a replacement. We did exactly this, part Q PD, then full planning. It was very straightforward in the end. There was a case that went to the high court in 2017 I believe which basically allowed for the part Q to be used as a fall back, therefore any full pp application would therefore be a replacement, even if the conversion had not actually been started. I think you've been advised wrongly. Honestly look in to this, might save a lot if hassle further down the line as you try and shoehorn your house in to the existing structure - not to mention the 20% VAT saving on a new build.

Following with interest as this looks like an interesting project. No doubt you have already, but have you explored getting planning permission now that you have the PD rights for conversion confirmed? You'd be able to change roof pitches - and lots of other things!

You're neighbour isn't Victor Meldrew by any chance?