daiking

I don't have enough pallets

As it says on the tin. Old galvanised garage door. what could I do with it to make it useful? Don't forget this is me so keep it simple.

Had a builder round this morning to have a look. Seems like I'm on the same page. Replacing the wall with a stud one was suggested. Something else mentioned was 'meshing' the brick work. In response to the 45 degree plaster crack in the wall to the left of the window and the corner of that wall and the dropped wall. We were all surprised about there being no obvious cracking in that corner but won't know for sure till the plaster is off this weekend. He (weirdly we have exactly the same name) will get back to us.

You sure? Wickes are doing a 4 rolls price that knocks 20-25% off the price. I make it sub £800 before your trade card and Amex. 100mm = 11.08m2 @ £14.99 = £1.35/m2 * 120 m2 = £162 170mm = 6.47m2 @ £19.99 = £3.09m2 * 200m2 = £618 = £780 Oh, and I'm sure 2x170mm top layer counts as skimping on here

Luckily The old stuff comes off in large pieces so a crow bar or spade does the job nicely (and quick)

I had thought about this but initially dismissed it as throwing out the baby with the bath water but trying to move half a tonne of wall with dodgy plaster back up from whence it came does not sound easy either. Also I am going to need to go back to brick on these wall to replaster. At least if I remove the plaster I will be able to see any more hidden nasties Holes?

No confusion there, I had previously established the floor joists were squiffy as a result of the recent work. Now I realise the wall has been made squiffy during the same work because it is supported by a wooden joist that has been affected just like the floor ones. It has been like this for nearly a year so something is holding it up. However I risk making it worse if I just go in and fix what I thought was the problem. At this moment in time I am not prepared to just let it be as it was not like this before and the floor does need fixing (without affecting the wall)

I'll try measuring the ceilings heights to compare. The padstones are plastered in on the ground floor and as yet show no obvious movement in the plastering. The care seems to have been taken with the external leaf not the internal. Although I understood the inner leaf was more important. For instance would you leave those gaps you can see it the last few photos?

The ends of the steelwork (in the existing walls) sit on pad stones. The steel beams were installed long before the wall was taken out and for a long time were installed in the walls. The fill in block work that was visible on the old external leaf was very tidy. I would have thought it was all really stable before the wall came out. Obviously not. I'll have to search for some photos. I can't remember if the pad stones were Installed initially or at the time of the knock through. The difficulty with supporting from below is probably best explained with another picture. That stair quarter turn projects down through the ceiling below. It was originally part of house kitchen. With the extension a enclosed this within a cupboard so it's tricky to get at the end of the joist. i know the construction method is typical, the wall dividing the front and back bedrooms is similar, brick on floor boards and does not line up with the ground floor dividing wall. However before the ground floor wall was removed, I'm pretty sure it all lined up ok.

Managed to upload these. In black for onoff's benefit.

The other thing is that the wall is supporting the ceiling joists but i suppose they could be propped from the landing and stairs i certainly wouldn't do it from the bedroom floor in current state.

that had crossed my mind as I do have a sort of plan of what needs doing but wanted to be guided. I didn't want to suggest that first as I hoped for something better. i can imagine propping it up from below but jacking it from my nice tiled floor? Ouch.

So if that wasn't bad enough, I'd knocked off a bit of plaster so I may as well have carried on. So far, this is the base of the inner leaf supported on the steels. Massive gaps and loose bricks. Which leaves me wondering what the fudge to do next?

This is the other side of the wall, it's the top of the stair with a quarter turn to the right onto the original landing and a quarter turn to the left in the first floor extension. This wall was skimmed after but even so it's got the same crack from the door frame corner and looks like it's dropped. The stairs quarter turn I took some plaster off to better reveal the structure. There's a joist, unmolested where it sits in the wall to the right but presumably now not seated on the left. On top of that is the end of the bedroom floorboards, then a 4x2 sole plate and the wall built on that. Going back into the bedroom this is the best I can see for the moment of this joist end. God knows what's actually supporting it at the moment but it's 10 months and counting. probably supported by the floorboards on the adjacent joist. sole plate on floor boards joist end I didn't think this wall could drop but now I understand the construction a little better and seeing the orientation of that brick in the second last photo, I don't think this wall is tied into the original inner brickwork leaf as it was constructed after.

I had a thread on ebuild about a dodgy first floor room where the joists had not been properly supported when the wall brow was taken out. Well its probably (a lot) worse than that. http://www.ebuild.co.uk/topic/18951-existing-floor-joists-not-tied-into-new-structural-beams/ As part of the rear and side extension the rear corner ground floor wall was taken out and steelwork inserted to support the first floor and roof. I had discovered that the floor joists were not properly supported on the beam and there were some cracks in the plaster but I hadn't realised how far it had moved. The cracks are concentrated around the wall openings. Here the old corner of the house where the steels meet is to the left of the window: Ive tried to mark adjacent to the cracks with a blue marker to highlight them, it ran out. There is one to the right of the window that goes up and along the ceiling. Some below the sill too: This room is still the original float sandy plaster with a recent skim on top and the original plaster was not great anyway so cracking is not a massive surprise. Opposite the wall with the window is the wall with the door. I'd noticed the cracks from the top right corner but hadn't thought about this wall fully till recently. This is an internal first floor block/brick or whatever but there is no wall supporting in downstairs. It is literally sat on the floorboards directly on a joist. I was unsure quite how this joist was supported given my concerns about the floor joists. Looking at the corner of the door that's cracked, it looks like the whole thing dropped 15mm across the width of the door let alone the 2.2m width of the room.

Sorry, I lied. I used the SF Timba Dek Stainless screws not galvanised instead of the Stainless Ultra Screws

cheers Barney. Glad I only paid £30 too.

Giving up is what one feels like when you discover your first hollow floor tile. When the only thing you think is not complete sh!t lets you down, you really should give up. I'm going to buy a tent, pitch it in the garden and live there instead.

I bought some of these to put the kids playhouse back together. After some difficulty, I went back to using some galvanised other stainless ones instead. I think the ones I had really needed a pilot hole but the normal ones were quite happy to go straight in.

Pretty much. Wild goose chase to get it for £30 mind after the one I reserved at my local SF vanished into thin air and I had to go to another branch. Cost me 12p to cross the toll bridge, Grrrrrrrrr.

I managed back then with Stanley plastic sawhorses and some scaffold boards. but the sawhorses are fubared really like anything belonging to the builder. Bagged one of these bad boys now http://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-steel-multifunction-workbench/25421

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