daiking

Now I know what I'm looking for... http://www.aico.co.uk/How-do-I-wire-hard-wired.html

So it only needs to be 3&E between the alarms but the bit between the MCB and the first and last alarms is normal T&E? That might be doable now. (Does the cable return in a loop or is it just a single string out from the CU? I am clueless at electrics) the alarms that were fitted (now ruined by dust ingress) only had a L/N/E connector though. Could these not have been interlinked anyway? Some Knightsbridge s*** or something. (That's not true, its not L/N/E the third wire is yellow not yello/green so its the signal for the alarm)

I'll do a sketch later on current layout and see what 'we' think.

No idea. I'll make life easier and stick to tile trims and pack out with scrap vinyl tiles. Shouldn't take too long to rip the tiles evenly lengthways

Clearly not. This is a previous over sight, the extension doesn't have any

Its a vinyl interlocking tile, only 4mm thick. I need more than 4mm around the edges to play with and it needs capping. I'm not sure how trims would look so I've been playing about with a mitre joint. Works but the prep and care needed with a free tool is quite hard/time consuming. A top trim, 8-10mm would be much easier.

I know but it's late for that! Is it possible to retrofit/add the link or is it wireless only now?. I'd prefer not to go wireless if there's another option

Could someone give me an idea of the additional wiring required to interlink smoke alarms if they're powered from a local light supply. I also have 2 alarms on their own circuit but it only uses T&E so they don't work together. Do you need to run and addition power cable between them all or just comparable sized cable that carries the signal? I googled but didn't quite know what I was looking for. I'm not intending to do it myself but scoping the work required so that I can determine how I want it run.

Cheers but save it for next time I've order 10 connectors (224-101) from eBay for £3 and I'll pick up a box from Screwfix. A £5 repair I can handle. I may not have screwed the floor back down yet but I have got my 6mm ply cut ready to go on top and planned out my vinyl tiles so that I can leave the toilet in place and get at the plumbing bits of interest if required. Bought some MR MDF to finish off the cupboard, probably doesn't need to be MR but why not. Put a rebate int he doors using only a circular saw :lol: I looked like Shrek. Mask was worn So not all time wasted. I'm also wondering about creating a skirting out of the tiles but I'm going to need a big mitre saw to do it.

I have a pair of those, they're s*** (with me operating them). The wago light box is spot on, no new cable needed, just cut out the short affected length. Screwfix do the boxes but not small amounts of connectors.

Its about 500-600mm from a light fitting so I meant there's not enough slack to cut it back and pull it up to the light. Its a ground floor light so in the first floor void, no chases here, unless I follow it out the bathroom, down the landing and somehow down into the cupboard under the stairs to the consumer unit. Should be loads to connect to a wagobox I'll tidy it up tomorrow, its a bit dark now

You'd leave this? I'd be more than happy to not have to do something with this. Its first floor so very unlikely to be at risk to vermin. None of the cables are clipped anywhere.

@Onoff Great noddy guide but you can see why I would go down the Wago route I need a proper pair of wire strippers as it is let alone having to crimp and heat shrink. You wouldn't board over and forget that damaged cable, would you?

Just a couple to cut this section out and joint. There not enough slack to cut it and take it directly to the light fighting. The existing wrong JB is another problem for another time...

I know but I don't need 75 and another bill to go with the tap wrench and all the other bits at the moment You can get smaller quantities on eBay

Goddamit, another delay.

That's the after pic, this is before: Several had been cut not at the joist, a few short sections of board had been 'destroyed' and temporarily replace with ply. so I cut them back to joists and tidied up. Also hoovered out the crap. But I can't screw it down yet... One of the downstairs lighting cables was burnt by the plumber so I need the simplest, to code method of jointing an inaccessible cable - screwfix/toolstation/wickes tomorrow And there's still an old fashioned circular junction box on the smoke alarm but the smoke alarm circuit is useless anyway, its only T&E not 3&E.

What is it they say about being in a hole and stopping digging?

Another £20 for something I'll only use once

I'll take another photo later but access is to the taps is via the cross shaped letterbox in the tiled bath panel.

It might help. Have you seen the access hole in the first photo though? I've since cut out the top left whole tile you can see and it doesn't help much and removing anymore doesn't help much due to the leg support and wall stud to fix the panel too. Its a bit tricky. should have used plasterboard not 12mm ply

The plumbing is fine (I think) it's the tap seating on the bath is letting water through and dripping down the pipes onto the floorboards. The nut seems tights but I can't get enough access to undo the tap connectors and the tap nuts.

I can probably "safe zone" it within 150mm of a corner or by putting the extractor isolator there later She hasn't really I was never happy with the bathroom but it was all done in a rush before moving in. It'll just get bodged and looked at when the ceiling below comes down. every hole/joint/fastener will get filled with clear sealant. Probably use waterproof PVA on the tile joints as it will flow but sealant on the taps and toilet stuff, even the toilet seat fixings. I just can't get to the tap nuts to refit the bath taps. Probably wont bother on the above basis of a safe zone, only plastic for cabling convenience, not protection.

Turn the doors upside down, then the handles can be higher than normal. I was at someone's house recently and the original 1930s style panel doors had been re-hung upside down some point. The single square-isa panel was at the bottom and the 3 strip panels were at the top. Didn't ask why

Just had a good idea regarding retrofitting hard-wired smoke alarms as my bathroom destruction has yielded a route from loft to ground floor ceiling. Wiring advice required later but for now, mechanical protection when cables are hidden in a stud wall? Will a length of metal conduit do the job? Presume that plastic does not offer mechanical protection.