daiking

This turning into a nightmare. Got about 2 weeks more work left than I thought there was when I started. 1) Taken a small section of wall off as it needed doing - I thought I could board and paint it myself rather than paying for a skim (its behind the door). Only to find the original board had been subtly 'curved' round the stud to fit in meaning I'll have to use 9.5mm board and have a bump to blend in where it joins the existing at the corner. 2) Bath leaks at the tap mount and tiled panel makes it impossible (for a mortal) to get at. Cut out another tile to improve access, almost possible now but removing further parts of the panel probably won't even help much. Might just have to seal the tap base to the bath - which isn't easy when its an inch in from of the wall. 3) The floor is supremely manky. The toilet itself doesn't seem to have leaked but kids pissing on the floor means its got under the vinyl tiles (interlock not adhesive), at least the underlay has seemed to stop the majority getting to the wood. Also some water coming from the toilet itself somewhere. and dripping on the floor anchors. I suspect that its the kids pissing on the seat anchors and finding its way down that way. Otherwise it could be the pan/cistern joint but it looks ok to me. 4) 2/3 of the 6mm ply I put down to bed the vinyl tiles needs replacing after being cut up and a section of floor boards need replacing but I couldn't find matching floorboards yesterday so I'll probably get a piece of 22mm P5 flooring and cut it like a jigsaw puzzle piece to cover everything as a single bit. Need to paint the shelves and doors for the cupboard which I know is going to make ages. So best get started...

The kitchen is from Alno but the cupboard is a bit of a 'special' done as cheap as possible. Its 1m wide and the depth of the those shelves is only 300mm. Its 18mm MFC but its had approx 25kg on for quite a time, it's light at the moment. I don't think what its done is that unreasonable. It just needs a bit of support. That particular shelf is the worse, the other are only a couple of mm out. You need help boyo! All it needs is vertical rib along the length of the shelf. No upright brackets, penny washers in conduit. Just a short vertical strip of MFC or sprayed white steel angle. My local B&Q is closing so all the steel and alu angles are going cheap. Got 6m of 25x245x1.5 angle for £12. Just needs a quick rub down and spray - Poundland sells spray paint.

She wants to keep it open across the full width which stops the post idea and something supporting from the back will not be sufficient. My suggestions are that 'timber' strip but I'd like to make them really substantial. From an aesthetic viewpoint, I'm not sure that would work. The solution has to look part of the design, not just a doubling up of material - in which case, something in proportion to the 18mm shelf, say 2 or 3x the depth would look better. This was the original larder we saw that started the whole thing and the depth to the stepped shelves is maybe the look I need without the steps though. Its going to need more than a batten I'm afraid. The whisky is already there because the box is too tall for the whisky cupboard, it'll need another home. Awful way to treat a treat a very nice whisky It'll look odd, out of proportion with everything else and the shelves need to be 300mm deep.

This is our 'larder'. Its nominally 1m wide but its shallower than standard. Shelves have been cut to fit so are proportionally weaker. The simple choice in my mind is a length of 25x25x3 steel angle or a 40mm strip of matching MFC along near the from edge of each shelf to stiffen it up. On paper, it looks like the steel deflects about 10% of a chipboard rib so that seems the obvious choice. Does that make sense? how do wide kitchen shelves normally work?

My bucket is only 15% full, you must have taken a lot of photos...

Mine comes down through the downstairs WC so noise is not really a concern. And no worse than any other peculiar sounds you get in the house. I was more concerned with thermal insulation as the stack is open to (cold) air.

To be fair the first time its been able to be cleared is when I've cut a hole in the wall. It was trapped in a cavity not under the boards.

If you wanted to put a couple of tiles, say around a basin on a fully decorated surface, could you use CT1 instead? *tilts stetson back*

In the 'ole with all the other sh*t. It wasn't connected or anything as we renewed all the electrics too. As I say, I first thought it was electrically damaged but now I think about it it could have been burnt by the plumber when he set fire to all the crap trapped in the hole under the hot water tank platform

And finding old horrors lurking in the shadows... although it could have been caused by the plumber when he set fire to the bathroom detritus that time...

Maybe this 'chat' should be in the accompanying platform thread. I can see how the trestle idea works for someone confident but access and egress seems an accident waiting to happen. How many extra bodies do you need? A couple of guys/gals to brace each end of the platform and an extra for the ladder to get on and off? What if you don't have a wall to brace from and its free-standing?

How on earth do you get up 8 feet on to a double stacked trestle arrangement? Jumping off the kid's trampoline?

I don't know! I was thinking both. But theres 2 parts to the wall and you were only think about the gap. Double layers and sound bloc get used on ceilings so it must have some use. what about sound deadening materials such as used in cars? Applied to the pipe?

Is there anything you can add to with the wall surface locally? Sound bloc PB? Double layering?

I asked this question the other day, I'll try to record my magpies trying to eat my new roof - the plastic and velux flashing. None of them have tried to eat the felt on the tree house though. Shit on it, yes. Eat it, no.

Seems like it, there's no decision to be made.

My wife made me pay extra for the velux with white internals, Grrrr... If the ceiling is white (?) it shouldn't look bad. Just take the upvc, fit it see how you like it and decide for the more visible windows later

You don't get the concept of "Making life easier for yourself", do you?

Like many things they don't seem to make them like they used to. Looks like I'll have to rip through a few scaffold boards. Possession is 9/10s of the law...

Longer than I would expect a silverline bench to last... cheap and basic would be ok as long as I can be sure its stable, square and won't bend when you try to clamp something.

Any recommendations? Cheap and cheerful please. Don't really want to have to buy a B&D WM825 or Bosch PWB600. I seem to have acquired a few sawhorses but struggle with them for small jobs.

This morning's excavation

Just been watching magpies attacking the plastic dry verge caps and the wrinkly flashing stuff along the bottom of the veluxes. Are they a serious threat or just a pita?

****ing plumbers Need to cut this section and patch (old toothpaste came out of this hole) Old airing cupboard doors are severely warped so I plan on replacing with MR MDF I tidied up the inside last summer but missus wants built in shelves not a standalone unit (I've already taken out), the light needs swapping for a ceiling mounted one or bullhead, not a pendant and there's a part that is still brickwork inside the left door. Cracks in ceiling to take out with multitool and fill and seal up that old loft hatch to stop steam getting into the cold loft.

I'll have a look in the loft as there loads of papers up there along with things like moody blues tickets from the early 70s. And credit card statements. Surprised by that to be honest. I thought hedonistic consumer credit was eschewed by anyone born before 1980. :rolleyes: but the point of my post, Circa what period are these? Mid 70s? bb