daiking

This holly stump is pissing me off. So is trying to mark out a rectangle.

I don’t expect to die imminently* so it can way for another die. (*although that would be a small mercy)

It’s been unusually cold for 2 weeks now so this still isn’t getting done. Was supposed to be marking out a trench for the footings with some string but balls to that at -1 deg. Will be warmer tomorrow in the rain which is nice.

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I’m sure there was a Jezza (un)patented version of this. Just like the one that used to be hawked on shopping channels.

From what I’ve read, I will probably need a local earth rod. Gland terminations etc will be up to the sparky.

I would have assumed that if I’ve started with a 6mm cable there’s no point increasing to 10mm for the SWA run but I have no idea really. Just trying to get a feel what is and isn’t possible. Only 40A over 30m+ sounds touch and go for lights, power and a hot tub though. I’m not intending to get a big hot tub any time soon but just making sure what is feasible in the future. I suppose a 10mm2 cable from the CU would be possible but it would be a right PITA.

Amongst the hundreds of other jobs involved I’m trying to get my head around this. When we extended the house, I had the foresight to ask the electrician to put a 6mm2 cable on its own MCB and connect it to a weatherproof box on the outside of the house. It’s approx 7m cable length - through wall cavity/service gap/ceiling, it’s not running fully in insulation. Externally the new supply cable will need to run approx 25m, probably shorter. Size of that SWA cable to be determined by installer. As I understand it, my constraint is the 6mm2 cable from the CU in the house. What I would like to understand is what sort of capacity I get in the log cabin based upon that constraint? A few lights and sockets - obviously. We’ll be expecting to run a fridge and a heater as Appliances needing more power Inflatable hot tub ? - probably as this runs off a plug Proper permanent hot tub ? - don’t know? Unlikely? Are 13 Amp options any good? I’ve seen that a 32 Amp hot tub requires 6mm2 and 40 Amp requires 10mm2 but don’t know how my distance affects that nor the additional load I require in the cabin I’ll be getting an electrician to do the electrical work but I want a firm grip of what work is required and will probably be doing the layout stuff myself to make sure everything is exactly where I want it.

Previously I’ve been told yes. But they look bad. it’s something I’m considering though

Ours is 5 years old now but the current equivalent has a centre ring that 320mm diameter

If you read the blurb you’ll see the large centre ring is 240mm diameter which should be sufficient. to be honest I cannot think of any occasions we have needed either of the 2 flexi-zones we have and standard rings would not have sufficed and saves ££ in the process.

mine wasn’t insulated as it was just for storage but I have just dismantled a very solid shed base with a scaffold board deck. The scaffold boards didn’t do very well that low to the ground ? some rot in the outer edges in my location.

To be fair, that drone camera angle is not very flattering. I’d give it the chance to be completed with landscaping first and a real world viewing angle.

*sigh* it’s the feeling of solidity she wants with a concrete base - it makes a such a difference in the house. The log cabin sits on a (approx) 50mm thick timber beam around its perimeter when on a slab so I’d expect to put 25mm of PIR on the floor in between timber bearers with a floating chipboard floor on top. (I’m expecting the finished floor to be an engineered wood floor) with that in mind, is there a significant difference in real life with the thermal properties of an insulated slab with insulated upstand inside a short wall or just a shuttered slab with insulation beneath the centre but not at the edges?

Yes. No. Big Neff here, £££

The suggestion made to me was to lay 3 courses of engineering bricks on a small trench footing (300mm wide by 150mm deep) as a perimeter. Then insulation and cast a concrete slab inside. I am trying to avoid this as I have never laid bricks/poured concrete etc.

I’m still at a loss as to what sort of base to build. My wife wants a concrete slab but I want it properly insulated. I will struggle to build something straight and level enough. I’m not looking for something super insulated, it’s a 45mm thick log cabin and I won’t be insulating the walls, only the floor and roof. It’s not going to be used all the time so I’m wondering if it would be a mistake to include the slab in the thermal envelope as it will always need heating up when we use it. Whereas a cold slab with insulation on top with a floating floor might be warmer? But I wouldn’t want it to literally float if there was a flood ? I’m looking for the lowest skilled solution.

At the rear left corner, it’s currently only about 0.4m away from the tree which I imagine will be a little close. I think I will be able to move the position forward a little and rotate around the front right to bring that rear left corner away from the tree.

At the front right corner, I think I’m going to remove the small pine tree and the foundation will run about 1m away from the big tree.

I’ve dug out the old shed base and have made a rough guess of where the cabin will sit. the ground is pretty claggy clay and full of root matter from when the garden was completely overgrown. There’s close proximity to a couple of tree, a slight fall left to right and on the right hand side behind the tree and chain link fence it is the bank of a stream. We’ve not had flooding but the highest stream level came up to the base of the chain link fence, approx 100mm below the ground level there.

There’s a few of us interested in this at the moment. I need to build a base for a log cabin in the next few weeks

Just remembered I left the karcher in the shed for the last week that has been freezing ?

I will be using the Corefix the next time I do something like this. I have used Rigifix before, another fixing sleeved in this way. It’s more expensive as it appears to be better engineered but 20kg is nothing to hold up so there would be no advantage in using it.

Beeny is a ‘property developer’. Of course the new plot/shell/house is always for sale at the right price.

Come on, as shows go it’s not as stark raving bonkers as literally building a north east semi from scratch in the African Savannah/desert.