daiking

I think I’m dug out now. No idea on the level of the trench (I was wrong). With nothing in particular to use I decided to pick the high point of external ground and hammer stakes into the bottom of the trench with the planned 150mm concrete depth marked on it. Then banged in another stake to the same level 850mm along the trench (I only had a 900mm level) worked my way round with lots of stakes and when I got back to the start, I did not have the same level ?. I was planning on getting a 1800mm level anyway so got it. Did the same again and whilst the levels were a lot closer, was still a few mm out. so I’m expecting the concrete man to come and fill the trench with concrete up to the level of the top of the pegs. The variation in the level of the concrete will need to be overcome by the mortar bed under the concrete blocks. fingers crossed eh?

I've got a (not very good) wet diamond wheel tile saw. It says it has a 30mm depth cut. I used it for slicing up 600mm x 600mm x 10mm porcelain tiles for skirting. Do you think it will happily cut my leftover 18mm vitrified porcelain outdoor paving slabs? I've got an idea for something...

I was not seriously suggesting I would put ufh in a 13m2 shed.

Think big, think GSHP

XPS is a better material. To be honest I should just have a dumb slab poured and use 50mm of PIR under the floating floor but I doing it the other way for shits and giggles. If I had any potential for a heat source, I'd put UFH pipes in the slab as well ? - which is one of the few jobs I have actually done myself in the past so can claim a limited amount of experience.

Cheers. I’m a bit surprised by that as XPS is more expensive (on that basis) that PIR. I didn’t think there was a problem with a building grade eps? It’s for putting under slabs isn’t it?

Any current recommendations for good 3rd party Makita batteries? Only for drill and impact driver I don't have any other tools yet 3-4 mAhs would do. I need some batts and there have been no offers on OEM ones for months.

At least none of you have said that building so close to a tree it'll sink into the ground within 6 months.

Garlic is coming up strong, ditto all my transplanted bluebells. I hope they take in the shadiest part of the garden. Even the rhubarb i put in last year that was looking very sorry for itself looks like its alive. Prevented 'shroom based Lawnageddon this winter and even cleared the leaves a few times but its still a bald mossy mess, so swings and roundabouts. In between everything else I need to do, its needs some work and a re-seeding asap.

So the insulation website I was keeping track of is having a price imcrease this week so I need to place my order although I’m not ready. I looking at: 125mm EPS below the slab. 6 sheet 25mm @ £4 each 5 sheet 100mm @ £15 each 25mm EPS on top of the slab (with chipboard floor and engineered wood floated in top) 6 sheet @ £4 each Roof 50mm PIR on top, under the felt. This is were I made a mistake in my new budget as I had not accounted for the overhangs. 1.2m to front, 0.3m to other 3 sides. 8 sheets @ £19

Was hoping to get the footings done this week but that’s not going to happen. Still, if Boris pushes proper pub opening back to May, I’ll have plenty of time to sort it.

becuz, becuz, becuz... I want it insulated, I want it in the ground (PD height restriction) etc. Not got to a point where I’ve got second thoughts on cutting through something. Saving my second thoughts for the opposite corner with there’s a 4” root of another tree about 1” beneath the surface. Can’t remember what that tree is but it’s a tiddler, only 12” diameter.

tricky to use in a 30cm wide trench. I did sharpen my spade with a file before I started all this jazz which helped a lot. bigger roots I’m using a saw.

What’s a gym? ?

No it doesn’t, it also tells you when to give up. Spent the afternoon trying to dig through the roots of the beech tree in the last photo. it’s trunk is over 50cm in diameter and I’m digging on one side about 1m away, a trench about 40cm deep. I believe beech does have shallow roots but I’m mostly cutting out stuff about 25mm diameter. It’s not going to fall down ?

Whose stupid idea was this in the first place? I am trying to make sure the base of my trench is level by starting in one corner and working my way round. I’ll be honest, it’s not working. I shall try again tomorrow.

They prefer to fill their cavities with millennial’s broken dreams as the decrement delay is longer than the rest of their lives.

I love a hoard but in the photos everything looks mouldy and damp ?

I concur, burn it down.

The pump was fine, the 1 & 1/4" hose was the problem to keep it from kinking the flow when the drain distance was not at full length.

So I wanted the block foundations to be finish above ground level to keep the timber of the walls off the deck. Now They need to be lower. A bit more digging and the timber will be closer to the ground. The 'foundation beam' (a ring of treated timber on the blocks) may even be laid at or below ground level due to the height. There's a 300mm overhang on 3 sides (1200mm on the 4th) and I was going to put gravel at the base anyway like a french drain so hopefully that will all be ok.

On this model the roof joists run front to back as you have a 1200mm front overhang. At the sides you add timber sections at the top of the wall to reach another 300mm. There’s a weird 44x44 piece all the way round. Presumably on a basic roof you felt under that and lap the felt down the sides and the fascia clamp it against the short joist pieces. I’m planning to insulate the outside of the roof with 50mm PIR so I’ll probably felt over the 44x44 sections and down the side. I have underestimated my insulation requirement as the easiest way to put the roof surface on is to insulate all the big overhangs as well ? This still leave the detail at the rear to think about when the time comes. We’re getting the tree cover trimmed back as well so may stick a hole in the roof in future for a stove.

I have some ideas but it will be something to make up when its constructed and you sit there scratching your head going wtf? Another reason to do this in felt first. The side and back have a 300mm overhang so there's room everywhere but there's a wierd 44x44mm plank detail around the inside of the fascias. I was going to ask them to confirm what the point of this was, whether it goes over/under the felt. Also detailing of how to hold the 3 fascia boards together vertically and have the board flush to the felt etc etc fwiw, felt is IKO Armour Valley which is much more substantial looking than the IKO shed felt I have on the shed.

It is a Tuin and it has a felt roof. Felt Shingles were a no cost upgrade but they don't seem to be worth it on this flat a roof. The EPDM upgrade cost was comparable to buying the full rubber roof kit yourself so I've taken the felt no cost option. Should have enough spare to re-roof the shed the next 2 times and I'll look at doing a proper roof in a couple of years when it needs re-doing. Bar-stewards: "As of the 5/2/2021, we have stopped offering free offer shingles on our Modern Log Cabins. These changes will also apply to the orders placed after the 5th of February. To ensure our customers receive the best roofing option possible- We have now changed the options for the Modern Log Cabins. Now, pricing for the Modern log cabins include EPDM Roofing and Adhesive which is the best and most reliable roofing option we can offer, This is what we always recommend for log cabins with a pent style roof."