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MikeGrahamT21

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Everything posted by MikeGrahamT21

  1. MikeGrahamT21

    Diy

    it certainly sounds it. I suppose you could always go back to brick, but that is a huge messy job!
  2. MikeGrahamT21

    Diy

    I don't know much about distemper, that article i linked sounds like its certainly best removing it before doing anything else otherwise you'll be fighting it forever.
  3. MikeGrahamT21

    Diy

    Recommendation is to remove the distemper coating: https://propertyworkshop.com/paints/distemper-paint/
  4. MikeGrahamT21

    Diy

    the cove adhesive is a bit poor until it sets. As long as it doesn't move when its had time to dry i'm sure it'll be OK, just caulk the crack before decorating. I find using drywall adhesive is much better than these cove adhesives
  5. MikeGrahamT21

    Diy

    What did you stick it up with?
  6. New build house, leave well alone and log with the builder, if you start messing they will use it as their get out, this needs properly sorting and it will likely be a big job. Luckily the weather is going to warm up a lot from tomorrow so shouldn’t be as unbearable while you wait. also consider enlisting a snagging firm (snag sure is one which comes to mind) to do a full survey of your building. They can help getting the house builders to resolve issues. If you absolutely can’t cope any longer, get some really thick curtains and try and hang them around that window
  7. I remember using a clamp sensor on mine, and it didn't know what was usage and what was export from the Solar PV! Counted both directions
  8. I've no doubt you will already have this (or I hope you do anyway): https://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/UM/202011/20201130092421734/DB68-08408A-03_IM_EHS_R-32_MONO_OUTDOOR_EU_EN_200822.pdf Installation manual for your unit. I noticed on page 41, there is talk of an energy saving mode, which is off by default?
  9. The specs on that unit state that in heat mode it can only use a maximum of 2.65kW, so something else is using energy here to get to the 3+kW figure... Is there anything else connected to the fuse you switched off?
  10. Blimey, that makes it even more of a shocker!
  11. 130w just for it sitting doing nothing seems an awful lot?! Is your solar PV connected up yet?
  12. This probably isn't your unit, though might be. Looking at the figures the COP drops off a cliff at sub zero temperatures, how much depends on your flow temperature: RC090 RC160 Power Supply Phase Single Single Volts 220 - 240 220 - 240 Hertz 50 50 Nominal Condition Air 7°C Flow 30/35°C Heating Output (kW) 9 16 Electrical Input (kW) 2.09 3.81 COP 4.3 4.2 Performance Air 7°C Flow 40/45°C Heating Output (kW) 8.4 15.1 Electrical Input (kW) 2.51 4.58 COP 3.35 3.3 Performance Air -7°C Flow 30/35°C Heating Output (kW) 7.54 12.28 Electrical Input (kW) 3.35 5.64 COP 2.25 2.18 Performance Air -7°C Flow 40/45°C Heating Output (kW) 7.59 12.01 Electrical Input (kW) 3.86 6.08 COP 1.97 1.98 Water Slide Heat Exchanger Brazed Plate Heat Exchanger Required Water Press (bar) 2.8 2.8 Nominal Water Flow Rate (l/min) 20 30 Minimum Water Volume (l) 20 20 Pressure Drop at Heat Ex (kPa) 10 15 Pipe Connection 1" Male 1" Male
  13. That seems to be more related to your tank and the rest of the system aside from the HP. When you nip up to the unit, i'm sure it will be printed near the serial number
  14. 3.2kw - Would this relate to your ASHP? Assuming they can modulate much like a gas boiler? What model is it? Had a look through the post and couldn't see it mentioned, apologies if i've missed it
  15. So sounds like your meters are accurate. 60kWh over a week for other items sounds reasonable. I'm certainly no expert on heat pumps, but that does seem like a lot of energy for a week! Have you spoken to the installer about this, do they agree its not right? Maybe give samsung a ring direct? Never know could be some firmware upgrade to fix a problem.
  16. Of course, sorry you did say you had a seperate meter for the HP. Does the HP report any energy usage, just in case the meter is wrong for any reason? Or does the uptake on the HP meter match that on the main meter?
  17. Hang on, the quooker will intermittently heat the water in its tank, have you ruled this out of the equation?
  18. Glue and screw 20mm timber to the joist tops, and put another 20mm insulation in place?
  19. You sure someone isn't making a sneaky brew without asking if you want one too? ? Is the burst of 3kW a regular occurence? If so its time to start turning some circuits off and narrowing it down.
  20. I bought the comfotube first actually before I was committed to installing MVHR straight away and didn’t want to be left with loads of pipe, I needed some to use as airtight underfloor conduit for electric cables. in the end I ended up doing the mvhr install and needed another 50m and went with quiet vent thinking there couldn’t be much difference but there certainly was. I think price difference was about the same when I bought. If I was buying more pipe I’d stick with the comfotube over other products for ease of use and also a better fit into the terminals
  21. Best budget solution...do nothing, doesn't look too bad to me. Drains are good and thats the main thing. Patching up with tarmac is asking it to flake off later down the line.
  22. Your right, I thought they were german.
  23. I've not used this specific product, but i did use two types on my install. I used Zhender Comfotube and QuietVent, both 75mm, both antibac and antistatic, and found the zhender stuff a lot nicer to work with, didn't fight with me as much during install.
  24. but are they better in all the wrong places? Ie where you don’t see anyway. the DIY kitchens runners and fittings are all German made, and surely chipboard is chipboard?
  25. I've only ever dealt with DIY Kitchens Online, so can't comment on others, but from what I've seen of my units the carcases certainly are pretty much the same as any other carcass. The DIY ones are flat colours, i suspect if you want a wood grain effect you may have to go to luxury provider and pay a lot of money. All the end panels and plinths from the above supplier were MDF, and were painted to a high quality. From what i've read in magazines, I think the general thought is to buy cheap carcasses (but get the ones which are glued and ready built), and then if you want more expensive doors go for those seperate, just make sure you've bought standard size carcasses to keep costs down
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