Chanmenie

R Wall https://www.r-wall.co.uk/

The 25mm EPS is to protect the DPM, better than just using sand blinding. I have around 145 m2 so similar size yes there will be a vertical strip around the perimeter

Hi guy’s I’ve read just about everything I can find on the forum but I’m still not clear on the best method. What is the best way to build up to floor level in a ground bearing slab, as far as the Underfloor heating pipes are concerned. On the insulation or tied to the mesh ? I get the impression that using clips or staples directly on the PIR is easier than cable tying to the mesh, but which is more efficient when using an ASHP. I am also concerned about walking on A193 mesh with ufh pipes attached it’s only 7mm so will it bend. Slab make up as this from bottom up. 100mm compacted type 1 sand blinding enough to fill and smooth type 1 25mm EPS ( should this be 100 rather than 70) DPM 150mm Celotex XR4000 UFH pipe clips with pipes 40 / 50mm rebar chairs A193 mesh 120mm Concrete The SE specified the A193

Only Nordvest so far But I have had a quote from Ecowin and Ideal Combi

Yeah belt and braces, I’ll do the same, difference is I’ll do mine myself so won’t have to pay a plasterer 😀

Which option you going to go with

ok thanks Russell I'll dot and dab then

I thought you could with isotex, they are pretty flat and consistent, not like Durisol which are all different thickness

Thanks Nick, so what comes after the parge ? dot and dab or screw the plasterboard direct to the woodcrete blocks. we are hoping to break ground next month, had hold ups with structural engineer and planning department.

@Nickfromwales @nod thanks for the tips guys, but in your opinions what is the best option for DIY on woodcrete (Isotex) blocks

😀 think I’m a bit old to start another apprenticeship, the last one I did I started in 1978

@nod I’d be really interested to learn how to get perfect airtightness with dot and dab

Thanks @nod good tip. I can plaster but being a part timer I’m not that quick, but I reckon I’ll speed up after the first couple of bags ?. Will have about 135 m2 plus 2 gable ends to do so I guess that’s over 30 bags @ 5m2 per bag

Thanks @nod Not so easy if doing it on your own think I’ll try one bag at a time ?

@nod if applying the bagged soundcoat plus, do you trowel it on just like a plaster skim ?

? Yeah I’ll remember, Craig will help with detailing around the windows and doors

Isotex woodcrete

@Nickfromwales great informative post thanks Nick. So with your experience which parge would you say is best, simple sand cement or something like Soundcoat plus. I was planning on doing exactly what you have suggested, parge all insides of external walls then detail tricky areas with PP or the Soudal equivalent.

You can probably apply the same thinking to tapes, do they lose adhesion over time ? or peel due to movement or shrinkage, once all covered up you'll never know

Or ask the ICF companies if they can recommend a builder near you who has experience of their product

If you are definitely considering woodcrete have a look at Isotex from https://insulhubuk.com/ Much better block than Durisol also use the search function on here as there are a couple of builds with pictures using woodcrete blocks

Yeah that’s what I was thinking can you actually just screw the plasterboard to the insulation ?

I’ll let you know

Thanks for the info guy's I have asked Norrsken and Nordvest for quotes so will see what happens

That looks a lot of windows and glass for £20k are they timber or Alu-clad timber