Chanmenie

Hi @PeterW yes I read that on the G3 BR document, the D2 discharge pipe must be metal or polypropylene, but on the link I attached above it says the soil pipe can be PVC-U to BS1329 / BS 1453 which Osma soil pipe is.

I found this which shows discharge to soil stack so presumably discharge soil pipe is ok https://www.nhbc.co.uk/binaries/content/assets/nhbc/tech-zone/nhbc-standards/tech-guidance/8.1/discharge-pipes-from-unvented-hot-water-storage-systems-.pdf

Is it ok to plumb the discharge pipe from the UVC tundish valve into an internal drain if using a Hepvo or mcalpine self sealing waste valve. the UVC will be on the ground floor so I was planning on running a waste pipe under the slab to come up into the UVC cupboard. Does the pipe under the slab have to be 110mm ? or can I branch off the 110mm pipe that will provide drainage for the washing machine and water softener with something smaller ?

I’m having a go at doing it myself it’s hard work in this heat so only doing half days

Yeah I looked at them, they do seem to be very good but are very expensive have a chat with these guys https://cvcsystems.co.uk/products/air-source-heat-pumps/

How do you calculate the required size of a buffer tank ? I’m planning on using a 7kw Vailant heat pump with 150 or 180 litre Mixergy tank, Vailant recommend their 45litre buffer tank! Will that be big enough ? @Nickfromwales Thanks for the Cylinders2go recommendation

Yes exactly I have full planning approval which included foul waste connection to main sewer.

Very true, but I think the fact it’s surface water is irrelevant, it’s the fact I have a drainage condition means I can’t progress above slab level, because they won’t discharge any drainage conditions. Because they don’t look at them on an individual basis

I the only thing I have been told is that they won’t discharge my surface water drainage condition until they have suitable mitigation. So what’s frustrating is my surface water cannot get to a watercourse and to the broads. Basically they don’t have a clue what to do about any of it, so they are stalling

Well let’s hope so, I have full planning approval but can’t proceed above slab until my surface water drainage condition is discharged. And my surface water will go into a soakaway which is many miles from any watercourse or the broads

I’m doing the same, A193 mesh and 120mm concrete, so will cable tie the pipes to the mesh then lift in onto the 40/50mm rebar chairs.

So are you saying he has lied, if there’s any truth in what he has put I’m not surprised he has objected.to be honest.

As the other guys said they look like shrinkage / drying out cracks, pretty typical of mass new build estates.

Not sure how often we descale it to be honest never really checked. Just had a look at the Harveys softeners and as there are only 2 of us its certainly worth considering as it wont be particularly expensive, they do look nice and easy to fill compared to the units of old.

6mm or 8mm for the hob and yes probably a ring for some sockets and the led lighting for the handleless rail

Hi If running cable for an induction hob in a kitchen island, what’s the best way to run the cable. I’m digging footings next week so the slab has not been poured yet so can run the cable under the insulation or on top of it, what’s the recommended way or regulations for this.

latest from EDP https://www.edp24.co.uk/news/housing/norfolk-nutrient-neutrality-consultants-appointed-8983586 so could take 2 years and there are approx 10490 homes on hold including mine

If he turns up

Yeah great looking job @Nickfromwales I don’t need any thing quite so belt and braces as there’s just me and the missus so pretty unlikely we’d have both showers running at the same time. I assume 25mm main will be ok. I really like the idea of single runs to each tap, toilet etc with no joins to leak, and the 10mm pipes to low flow items makes sense.

Ok thanks again @Nickfromwalesi’ll forget the softener then, so where does that leave me with the best place to bring the main in. is it better closer to the manifolds ?

Thanks @NickfromwalesI had not planned on installing a softener though. Although having read your response I have done some research and might consider a non salt type. Having lived in South Norfolk for many years and never having any problems caused by hard water, I don’t feel the need for a salt type softener.

@NickfromwalesI’m about to start my build, so thinking about the routing of the rising main. If plumbing a system like in your picture Nick, would you bring the water main up into the plant room / cupboard ? Or should I just bring it up into the kitchen or utility room then run a feed to the plant room / cupboard. The utility room is the most central. As it’s between kitchen and cylinder cupboard.

No you can’t clear the conditions they won’t discharge any conditions at present until they have a mitigation plan. I have full planning approved including connecting to main sewer, but I’m in the same boat as I have a condition for surface water drainage. Which is frustrating because my surface water will go to a soakaway and I am many miles from any watercourse and the broads.

Yeah it’s new connections to main sewer

I had a similar experience, asked a local supplier / fitter for a quote for Origin 4m sliders in triple glazed it they said Origin would not give a warranty and they didn't really want to fit it as too heavy