Chanmenie

I know one in south norfolk if that’s any good

Excellent, gives me hope then 👍

Don’t fit the UFH pipes under the shower tray, cut a hole the right size in the rebar and make a shuttering box exactly where you want the shower tray to go. Im doing similar with mine

Fair comments @Carrerahill As it happens the developer is one of the better ones in Norfolk and the workmanship not too bad, we’ll certainly compared to others. I’ll admit I’d did seem strange to have them where they are. The exhaust for the tumble driver vents condensation onto the neighbours car as it’s usually parked about 2ft from the vent, his drive way is not very wide.

For bedding the slabs on you need sharp sand, building sand is too soft and will flow so could leave voids under the slabs

I’ll watch out for details on this, I’ll be looking for a heat pump at some point next year.

So had you known would you have bought the property ? unfortunately it should have been sorted out properly at the time

Ah that makes sense. Thanks for explaining @craig

That seems rather a lot for what it is

What does call ridiculously expensive @Tom ? I only have two steel columns the base plates are 350mm x 250mm, they sit inside the external walls

Got to disagree worth you on that @Carrerahillmy house has 3 exhaust vents, boiler, cooker hood and tumble drier that all vent directly to the neighbours, as my house wall is the boundary. They vent directly into the neighbours driveway. The house was build by a large developer in Norfolk, unless they have broken the rules. As it happens all the access chambers for my drains are also in the neighbours driveway.

If the solicitor had the ROW removed, was it extinguished, in which case it cannot be reinstated. Did the solicitor also own the neighbouring property by any chance ? I have done research on this as there was previously an ROW onto my plot, fortunately it has been extinguished.

@craig Didn’t part M compliance become mandatory for all new builds in 2016. or are you saying for pre June 22 it’s only applicable if specified on the planning approval.

Soil pipe is cheap so yes put a longer bit in, I have left mine quite tall, less likely to trip over them then 😀

I looked into insulated rafts and the suppliers were asking for 3 - 5mm

@Simplysimon, Having said that, the studs I have resined into the concrete are 30mm longer than required so if Armatherm or an alternative is available in 30mm I assume that would be better than nothing ?

Yeah I can insulate it where the concrete slab is going but it’s a bit late to put armatherm under it

Yeah the columns and beam are within the warm envelope other than where it’s bolted to the strip footing concrete So ok to just box it in with plasterboard

Thanks guys, do I need to be careful of condensation forming on the steel ? and what about fire protection, it’s a chalet bungalow so technically single storey but the beam is holding up the gable end. I had a look at Doc H but could not work out what’s required as single story.

I have a pair of goal post vertical steel columns coming up from the foundations, they will be bolted to the concrete footings. They will be boxed in with shuttering to enable completion of the ground build up with insulation, UFH and the pour of the concrete slab. Once this is completed and the ICF walls built up, how should I fill in around the columns up to finished floor level, will cement/concrete corrode the steel ?

Have a look at the EWI Pro thin coat silicone renders, they are more resistant to staining compared to monochouche, and more resistant to cracking. being coloured through they don’t require painting and can be pressure washed if they do get dirty through mud splashes algae etc.

Just don’t let anyone put a wet wipe anywhere near it

Some great ideas there, thanks guy’s

Hi Anyone got any tips for the best way to cut 110mm holes in 100mm PIR for the waste pipes, I can’t find any hole saws deep enough to go through the 100mm Celotex

Fingers crossed for both of us