Thedreamer

We did our research and were happy to proceed with ordering a treatment tank, the model selected seem to be quite popular on Skye and every time I went to the building merchant they were in the yard. I thought this was a good sign and would mean that contractors would be familiar with it during the installation and if it required future servicing etc. The tank was ordered but at some point in transit, between the haulier and the building merchant, it was moved off a lorry and the top of the tank was knocked, breaking the lid. They told me a replacement lid would be delivered to us and after a period of time it was finally delivered along with the tank. The delay was disappointing as my contractor had to go to another job, but I am realistic that this can easily happen on a self-build. Here is a photo of the old tank lid and the damage occurred. This was annoying but it wasn’t too much of a concern with the replacement lid now attached. I then inspected the tank and noted some other minor damage on transit (chips and scratches, which I believe are reportable) and emailed the building merchant to report this the next day. I sent a number of e-mails both to the building merchant and the manufacturer, but didn’t get a reply. I then started to compare photos of the tank online with the one we received. It was clear that sealant was messily applied and peeling in places. I told the building merchant that I did not want to install this tank and finally we got a reply from the manufacturer. They said that there was no way it would leave the factory like that and that it had clearly been tampered with. They didn’t offer an opinion on where the tampering took place but clearly stated they were taking no responsibility. Here are some photos of the sealant application. I have a suspicion that this is either old stock, was rejected by previous customer or perhaps failed a pressure test. I think just before it came to us they slapped loads more sealant on it because it was looking bad/weathered, they then put it on a pallet and added the black holding strap (if you look closely than you can see that the black straps have left an indentation on the sealant and smeared it upwards so presumably this was strapped whilst the sealant was still wet). The manufacturer told me that they water pressure test the tank after the sealant is applied and dried, so this makes no sense to me. Here is a photo. Ultimately this tank needs to last twenty or thirty years so I don’t want something installed that potentially could fail in a year or possibly five. If I ordered new windows or a door, they wouldn’t send me an old tatty tarted up product. I’m yet to pay for these goods and have told them I have no intention to do so and to come and collect the tank. I’ve had a pretty bad experience with the manufacturer (unrealistic delivery time, the quality of the model, lack of sales after care and the sales manager for the manufacturer was quite rude) so I’m not sure a replacement would now be best, now looking at a new systems as I definitely want one with a air pump rather than moving mechanical parts.

I did consider this as a possible job we could tackle, but just haven't had the time to do this.

Time for another update. Most of our work this month has been focused upon finalising the kitchen design, stair, stove etc. Tangible work on the house has consisted of the taping and filling and fitting the last bit of ducting. Not terribly exciting, but it's all progress. Here are some photos. Next up I need to resolve an ongoing treatment tank problem which will be covered in a separate entry. We hope to start internal paint work in the next few week pr so.

Keep up the moaning and dramas you will be ignored on here. All the best for the rest of the build.

Prehaps read over the thread from the start and look at the advice/reassurance that members have kindly taken the time to provide to you. You may note that a few members have been more 'charming' the more this has gone on for.

I'm also a first time self builder and learning through out this process. I have some bad news for you, it's only going to get more stressful from this point on. Honestly this thread seems to have made mountains over mole hills, has the concrete set, yes. Did everybody say it would happen, yes. Generally posts on here tend to be like this, you ask a question, kindly receive advice and then do the work. We all move on and prehaps it might be useful for future members searching on the forum. Or just a light discussion/bit of banter. This thread has been neither and just seems to be evolving into new ridiculous problems. And what is the flipping deal with your neighbours, builders etc, what are they the mafia?

Hi @zoothorn I've been following this thread for the last few days. It's pretty stressful self building! Before I started I read the home builder bible, gives a good basic understanding of the build process. Not to worry on the concrete this will now be set. Your foundation are probably going to be more substantial than the rest of your house. Are you using the same the builder through out?

Thanks you for your kind comments. We got our cladding (Siberian Larch) from Russwood, we are leaving this to sliver naturally, if you have decided yet, lots of options regarding cladding. Once your windows are fitting you may want to put on some plastic sheets, to protect them during other works, our's went on once the outer skin blockwork started.

I went to my building merchant and the only colour they had in 825 was anthracite, which just so happens is what I'm intending to paint the sills. @Carrerahill thanks for this. ?

No that is not what is required here. I don't believe that mortar ever provides a waterproof seal.

Yes, that is what I'm after. I will look out for that, Silicone EB25 is basically a better version? Also would you put a bead down and then get it as flat as possible so goes a bit beyond the joint?

Can anybody help with how best to seal a mortar joint on a concrete sill? Is it best to use a sealant out of the tube (if so which?) or should I apply SBR bond on top of the joint. I also plan to paint the sills in the next few weeks. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Most folk are wanting to get wind and water tight ASAP. On ours self build the outer skin blockwork and cladding were done after the windows went in. Also windows were in before slates were on the roof. My blog on here might be of interest to you.

Old thread. I have some concrete sills with mortar joints that I want to water proof. Could I brush PVA over the top would this seal them? I plan in long term to paint the cills would the PVA cause a problem here with painting? Any advice much appreciated.

How much did the architect make? Probably drove up that bridge, laughing, with his scarf blowing in the wind.

No. I have a self build mortgage and not required.

Not just trawlers, but also ferry operators. Last time I was over for business in Uist, in the Lochmaddy ferry terminal they have a cabinet with information about identifying/procedure for russian vessels.

I would be surprised that this method is the most affordable way to self build a house. Self builders triangle, you can select two out of time, cost and quality, which are most important to you? Provider will be making a margin on the speedy nature of the kit construction. I had the choice between moving into a crappy developer house in tarmac town with huge mortgage to fund some fat cat's pension or going on the rollercoaster of self building. Started the process when I was 22, now 33, it's been a long old ride.

Our service voids were 45mm x 45mm, I did consider going smaller to save on space or prehaps add 10mm onto the insulation, but in the end we decide to keep it simple and to what the electrician and joiner suggested.

I'm at £10,000 and just completed first fix (140 square meters). With the exception of block, concrete, sand and some soils pipes, all the other materials have been supplied by me. Cash is king during the build, but if your contractors supply materials you may find they add a margin and the overall cost may be more expensive. Although you get the VAT back, your build costs if applying for a mortgage will need to include VAT on the materials, as your lender will need to be satisfied that you can fund the VAT gap during the build. This coupled with a contingency say 10% can add a bit onto the proposed build costs.

Going slightly of the point, but is that the best place for the lantern, if the water is coming down, could it work its way into the cavity?

What do we think the canopy is made of, could it be that part of it's starting to rust and that's caused the staining?

Sorry about the grant. Our connection consisted of a road opening and 220 meters going back to the transformer cost us around £5k to £6k around 4-5 years ago. You should be fine with no electricity for foundations. We stick build our house so needed electricity for saws. If building a kit most of the work would be done with a nail gun. But having electricity is definitely handy.

Mines up in March, so interested in any comments as well. Although I would hope to be finished by then. Just one further comment I would like to ask, is when you can move onto a standard residential policies, before the completion certificate?

£20k for power, must be some work there. I would recommend reading the electricity connection threads. Are you building in Scotland? I got a grant from SSE for our electricity connection. My view on services, is that it is similar to land costs, although it costs money, it also adds value to the plot. What are you planning for foundations/kit construction portable water and generators?