keith65

I would use the regularised and treated C16 fin 47 x 145 these are based on 6x2 7x2 and 8x2 imperial sizes which have been planed down

Hi I think all rafts will require starter bars from the reinforcing in the slab as this ties the two together. The structural engineer set out how much rebar and the spacing, more below garage as this is below ground. I have laid all the blocks myself my son has helped to move them around. I had 3 helpers with the pour and was lucky Dennis from Isotex came down for the first this gave and understanding of what is required. I just asked for an S4 mix as this is what Isotex recommend. The pump driver had done a lot of ICF pours of different types so very good walked around scaffolding with me during the pour and was watching to make sure the flow was right. Fixings for windows and doors are easy got a pack of light restraint straps from screw fix No 68348 cut them up and screw them to the back of frame and then into blocks. I would not screw through frame as this is over the insulation so you wont hit the concrete as this is near the inside face 40mm in. I found having a box of assorted glazing packers use full for leaving up block every 2ed or 3ed course to keep walls plumb. My build is moving on but will be winter before finished I hope as doing most of the work my self. Good luck with your build post some pic when you get started. Keith

My Dad worked as a apprentice in the dockyard and he said they used to have big bales of the different types and used to have snowball fights with it he is 84 now.

The middle hinge on fire doors goes near the top hinge as this helps when heat of a fire, it stops the door warping so much. I still use 6" down from the top 9" up from the bottom and in the middle of the two on all doors in a house and two pairs on external doors and have done for years.

Thanks it is coming along hope to get the ground floor windows in next week and start tanking the back wall. With a bit of luck.

The last six weeks have been a bit of a slog but have finely got the roof finished, PV fitted and first floor cladding and windows fitted. Scaffolding came down yesterday 3 weeks longer than planed big hole in wallet. First floor chipboard flooring down so will start on the ground floor windows and studwork. But now back to real work as well.

if you cut the flooring you will weaken the hole floor as the t & g flooring strengthens the floor by tying all the joist together. use a sound brake under the soleplate of the partition

Just had an email from Travis Perkins saying prices all going up on first of June so more pain

I think the first one is best unless you move the sill on the third out so back is flush with blocks and give more overhang

No you need to use an air seal foam much finer than the normal foam I got some from Toolden FM330 Pro foam air seal

put a bead of air tight foam on the PIR then push it to the floor, but you will need to mist the concrete first with water to help the foam expand

Powertoolmate are part of westward building services

Or you could see if you can get reclaimed pitch pine cleaned up looks fantastic

If I was putting down Redwood flooring I would not glue it as it will move if you glue it it will split just nail it with 65mm lost head nails

Hi its been a hard week or so it seams but have managed to get the roof cut in and ready for felt and batten so progress made if but slow. I went up to the train station platform to see how much of the view the house blocked as this was the only objection to planning from the ANOB the nimby group.

I would have the front door hung on the other side so not to block the lounge and is there a glazed panel both sides of the door

so you can do a stepped cavity tray

Hi Have done the final pour today and fitted the glulam ridge beams, all went well so happy days will get the wall plates fitted tomorrow and will start the roof weekend. I PU glued the blocks for the gables so the beams could be sat in place and this worked a treat. Also managed to get the floor joist fitted this week. So good progress?

You could put a plastic strip on the glass with Georgian bar tap it is like double sided tape

I had the same on ICF so had to go Architects certificate

Building control have been fine about windows just had to show they are pas 24 compliant and as most are fixed pain not to hard. I am doing as much of the work as I can, so apart from the sparky, I will be doing lots.

I have made the windows and they are sitting in the workshop ready to be fitted after I have cut the roof in. The second pour was a couple of weeks later so drekley as they say.

Talking to the fitters from Isotex it would seem to be about what you should use if your are pouring 10 courses one side was 11 so better to be safe. I have had two pours and all been ok so worth taking the time as I still did not sleep well the night before?

Hi have got up to wall plate and braced the walls, also fitted the pole plates to the walls for the floor joist so the fixings will be set into the concreate. The second pour was Thursday and all went well, so will be building up the gables over the Easter brake and then onto cutting in the roof. So making some progress.

You can`t notch posi joists to make the loops.