Tetrarch

You don't need these. For a standoff in a glulam (is there a better screw substrate?) you could use a regular coach screws - the biggest that you can safely insert Regards Tet

Things masively depend on the glulam beam construction and what's behind it but it looks like you have two options: Either some HD through bolts like these: https://www.fixingswarehouse.co.uk/products/toggler-snaptoggle-heavy-duty-toggle-bolts-bm10-25pk Or some M10/12 screws straight into the glulam - are there any load recommendations Regards Tet

I can't recommend FH Brundle highly enough. From order to delivery their people are absolutely top-notch, the prices are extremely keen and they keep you very well informed I wanted the standouts but didn't have enough vertical space on the return to make it work as you need (IIRC) 100mm below the low standout in the glass. Getting it exactly straight was a process but using their inserts and four post-it notes (a new construction unit) made it perfectly vertical Regards Tet

I looked at Aluflow. I'm going to make a recommendation but with one HUGE caveat www.clearamber.com aluflow deepflow gutterring is superb. Really strong and looks fantastic. Using the deepflow means that I haven't had to introduce any fall and they have no problem shifting water in the heaviest rain. I would unreservedly recommend if it wasn't for one detail...... The corners and fittings are cast and the main pipes must be extruded. I have found that the cast parts finish has gone matt over time. To their credit clearamber have offered to replace the faulty parts but 60% are already in-situ and I am loathe to change them out as they are screwed and siliconed. I may keep the roof-line ones as-are and just change the first floor, but I am still weighing my options Regards Tet

But he'd lose his floor space..... I was wondering whether you could take the walls in at the "shoulders", where the wall creases but then feather it so the floor remains unchanged Regards Tet

This instruction from the council will oblige you to sacrifice your loft room as one of your lettable spaces How much extra PIR do you actually need? Its a sloping roof - can you not just add thin PIR on the sides and then a thicker portion right at the apex to achieve what you need? Regards Tet

Welcome - from a fellow Kent dweller (Kentish Man in my case) This place is an incredible resource, invaluable advice and opinion - I have learnt so much, and continue to do so Much of your plans will depend on your local authority - if it's Sevenoaks then buckle-in it's going to be painful All things are possible if you have adequate budget, patience and a hide of leather Very best of luck Regards Tet

If you're cricketing then you might need behind your rooflight to divert the pooling that will inevitably occur there Regards Tet

I had a parapet wall specified on my 28sq m extension as I was trying to avoid downpipes on the rear elevation (side scuppers). Apart from the technical challenges you are encountering there is an aesthetic component as well. My original drawings looked like this: It turned out to be completely misleading as a warm roof is way thicker than the drawing would indicate and it would have left an enormous space above the patio doors. In the end I kept the side parapets and had a single deepflow gutter with a rain chain as a feature You can see that if I'd kept the rear parapet the rear wall would have dominated the elevation Regards Tet Ps Yes - I know, still waiting on my lead-man to return to finish off the parapets....

I'll see your 1TB in the 80's....... In 1956, IBM’s Data Processing Division in southern San Jose, Ca transported the first hard-drive that only held a whopping 5 megabytes of storage Regards Tet

From the information you have provided it would appear that they are going to install a parapet wall. They could use concrete stones, porcelain tiles, or some kind of capping like aluminium or zinc. Any of these would likely have a TINY overlap into your airspace. I would seriously consider how you are going to live with this and your neighbour after it is built. There is no way that you can specify how well (or badly) the final wall will be finished. There is nothing you can do to ensure the aesthetic finish of the wall. Furthermore, you cannot finish the wall yourself - not even paint - without permission. In my opinion I would play the long game. Make it easy for them to access your land on the condition that the quality of the external wall is good, as you will have to live with it - not your neighbour. Consider what finish you would prefer and get written permission to paint/render it as a condition of easy access. The ease of access is important as you want their bricklayers to make as good a job of it as possible Regards Tet

IMO - I'd take your timber framers offer. I had my (aluminium) "foffit" (not a real name but a one-piece combined fascia and soffit) installed immediately after the framing, but before any slating (though some leadwork was being done at the same time. You know your dimensions and wall covering thicknesses - so there's no real downside Regards Tet

I cannot recommend FH Brundle highly enough. Their custoner service is the best I have EVER come across. Not just the sales guys, but the logistics people, the delivery guys and the staff in the warehouse who allowed us inspect a product (from a high shelf) before we committed. https://www.fhbrundle.co.uk/handrailing-and-balustrade/frameless-glass-balustrade?via_sb=true My (side-mounted) internal stair balustrade is fixed to a 10mm steel plate bolted to a floor joist. The floor-mounted balustrade from FH Brundle may well do what you're looking for and at a fraction of the price Regards Tet

Thanks for the feedback. A direct feed would have been an excellent idea, but I have been in touch with Stovax, unfortunately it is not retrofittable. And 8.1kw IS big. It's that size because it fits the fireplace, not because the output is required - especially since we have sealed and heated the rest of the house! Regards Tet

Hi All, The reno is basically finished. Our Stovax Riva 66 8.1kw Wood Burner was installed in 2021 and only subsequently has the house been completely revamped and made (relatively) airtight with MVHR.... I need a final BC sign-off, but I'm thinking that we won't be complient with Part J and that we'll be looking for an open vent in order to comply. Our fireplace is actually an external brick structure affixed to the house and I am extremely loathe to punch a hole anywhere else. Part J says: "Permanently open air vents 1.10 Permanently open air vents should be non-adjustable, sized to admit sufficient air for the purpose intended and positioned where they are unlikely to become blocked. Ventilators should be installed so that building occupants are not provoked into sealing them against draughts or noise. Ventilation openings should not be made in fire-resisting walls other than external walls (although they should not penetrate those parts of external walls shielding LPG tanks). Air vents should not be located within a fireplace recess except on the basis of specialist advice." (bold mine) Where do I go to get this "specialist advice" in order to get the vent placed within the fireplace? This would very much satisfy the "not provoked" and be the shortest and most direct source of air possible. Is it just a matter of "finding" the right expert? Regards Tet

I'd agree with the "don't do it twice" advice. You state that youn can't afford to take the wall down, I assume that this means that it's structural. What you could do is to leave everything as-is but employ a builder to make a huge hole in the wall and put in a lintel (you can probably get a second-hand steel from somewhere) We had exactly the same thing done for precisely the same reasons. We had a 10ft supporting wall knocked down and a pair of 8x2's acro'd in. This "temporary" fix was supposed to be for a few months whilst our planning went through, but this eventually took three years! It did, however deliver the open-plan we were looking for and got us used to the space before the extension went on. I attach some before and after pics below: It only took a day and cost me two man-days and some timber First pic is after the floorboards were removed. Bizarrely I don't have this pic before this stage! Regards Tet

https://idsystems.co.uk/roofs/rooflights/ I was really impressed with ID Systems. We visited the factory twice and bought their beautiful Vistaline tilt-and-slide doors as well https://idsystems.co.uk/slide-and-turn-doors/ The Vistaline doors were actually the first purchase, we added three rooflights and two static windows to ensure that fit-and-finish was the same. Apologies I thought I had taken some better pictures, but all the ground floor windows are ID Regards Tet

I've got 6 sq m of rooflights and MVHR. I haven't yet gone through a summer, so time will tell, but I've noticed that the MVHR is very good about maintaining fresh air throughout the whole house. We went for (quite expensive) sealed unit rooflights that "drop over" our timber upstands. They make a great seal and then the only join that matters is where the upstands poke through the roof material. In our case it's a rubber roof so I was massively obsessed with the way that these were constructed. I'll open our patio doors if things get too hot! Regards Tet

Just an personal observation. Opening veluxes to allow accumulated heat to dissipate seems to be an expensive and inefficient method (though aestetically I love the idea!). Have you considered some kind of mechanical ventilation as an alternative? You don't need MVHR as your use-case seems to be a solution to insolation so a simple extractor fan set at the highest ceiling point would achieve the same result - and a lot more quickly Regards Tet

I specified shadow gaps in our refurb but actually moved away from the idea for a couple of reasons: Effectively "removing" the layer of plasterboard would expose the steel frame and void that would compromise the internal insulation and make airthightedness more difficult to achieve. Good though my plasterer was, shadow gaps are extremely difficult to get perfect and any discrepancy would stick out (as previously noted) Getting a really good intersection around door frames would be a challenge and would likely place for cracking in the future I went with a "shadow gap" architrave, which I am satisfied with, the bonus is that using the same profile with thicker architrave made decorating exceptionally easy Regards Tet

We had 110 sq m of Amtico laid, it took 30 bags of Mapei Self-levelling Compound to get a finish. My Amtico guy was a joy to watch, it was a privilege to watch him work After the SLC he was meticulous going across the whole floor looking for any bubbles or imperfections that he sanded out. He used a primer to key the surface. As a tip for the install, he laid down every plank dry and marked where they would land. He worked in about 12-plank increments. He obviously knew exactly how much adhesive he could manage and he spread it out to the markings. The thing that surprised me most was that he also trimmed back the underside of the leading edge of every single plank to ensure that there was a perfect join. I cannot find fault with anything he's done I have done amticof mysel in a small bathroom. I did an OK job with the planks but failed to prep my plywood properly and ended up with a a small bump where the planks butted each other. That house is now someone else's problem but I wish that I'd had a pro do it Regards Tet

Our porcelain tiles are still in the process of being installed. They are not at all slippery when wet, but as we may have been a bit conservative with the fall, the ice is quite treacherous. I can see that they will get dirty easily (even when the building site transfer is gone), but pressure washing little and often is my plan. I have a load of broken slate left over from my roof, the plan is to use that in the French Drain around the building Regards Tet

We had our silicone rendering start just above the DPC. We still don't know whether to paint the lower plain-rendered parts black or the same colour as the textuered silicone-rendered part We're still not finished yet Regards Tet

I see you're in a fictional town in Kent. It really can depend on your LA (and if you're in Sevenoaks then buckle up). We had a three year fight with ours but all's well that ends well... We are in GB and the rule that our LA used was a 50% uplift from the 1948 footprint. Our initial plan was rejected because it was too much of an uplift ~28 sq m After a failed appeal we applied for a really ugly PD plan with an uplift of 31 sq m that was duly approved We then reapplied with a (slightly different) 28 sq m extension using "less harmful to GB than PD" as our Special Circumstance that was duly approved It can be done, but be prepared for a fight. Regards Tet

I'm no cook, but Mrs Tet LOVES her Neff Induction with the afore-mentioned puck control. The combination of something more positive and tactile with the ability to remove it completely for cleaning make it a great option Regards Tet