Barney12

Oooh good point. Will add that to the shopping list

More progress on the outside toilet front. First fix plumbing finished and tiles laid. The two 30 degree bends as suggested by our plumbing legend @Nickfromwales worked a treat.

Do you have any more info? Suppler? Part no? Ta

I am FAR from an expert but I dont think this works: Chambers have an "inlet" and an "outlet" at the lower level. These are fed by 2 or 4 inlets at a higher level. You seem to have runs crossing. Do you even need this pipe? Hope that provokes thought. I'm no expert.

P.S. Its also not a bad idea to add a clear wood preservative first before the teak oil. Something like: http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/wood-preservative If you can find a way to soak for 24-48 hours the parts that come into contact with ground that will help further.

By far the best oil for exterior oak furniture is a good quality teak oil. Nothing wrong with Barrettine products: http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/teak-oil

I went to the Sennocke website and it re-directs you to Build Zone. Should I have just called them?

Thanks for the info guys. I've submitted a quote request to Sennocke (Build Zone).

Either that or his wife is a real life Angel!!! I bet he has no idea he's got it so good

Just to return to his thread: LABC Waaranties have just turned down my warranty quote request because Future Found has no BBA (or equivalent) aproval. I've asked MBC to clarify the situation.

Looks like @dogman has used slate hooks rather than nails. i.e. https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/100mm-black-coated-slate-hooks-point-driven-304-grade-box-of-500.html?gclid=CPS5sNPAsdMCFRe3GwodLuoKRw

Just to update. I've attached the spec document from BPC for their Geothermal unit. Alas the specs recommend insulated ducting to prevent condensation forming which makes things difficult for me as I don't have enough free space for that size duct. Although I'm not convinced that's a real world issue in our climate? Any thoughts? I've asked BPC to confirm what their normal specification is. Airflow+Ground+to+Air+exchanger.pdf

Looks great. Have a good break!

Our MVHR is in the loft so that's not really practical. Plus I don't really want anything too ad hoc. I have looked at duct based split aircon units but couldn't fathom if they could sit inline with an MHRV unit. I have a feeling they would play hell with flow rates?

In my continuing research of cooling options I came across these as a heating/cooling option add on for MHRV. Ive found a couple of options: Systemair: Link Zehnder Comfo: Example and a unit from BPC which they seem to say is an Airflow product but I can find no reference to it anywhere and the picture shows a Helios badge: Link Does anyone have any views? If I decide quickly it wouldn't be impossible for me to integrate a small brine loop in the groundworks that start on Monday.

I was trying to avoid runs under the slab. Probably paranoia!

Alas it is in our ground. it goes like this: Place bucket in ground. Watch digger go up in the air! Well unless its the 20T machine in which case its: Place bucket in ground. Create hugely larger trench as the rocks are pulled out.

Storm.

I did consider that but with a 600m drop the gradient would mean I'm too low at the soakaway end. I assume its not permissible to add a swept bend which would still be roddable? Something like this:

BTW: I wish there was another way! I hate manhole covers. I was trying to see if I could create a drop shaft but without a chamber but i've not found anything online that refers to it being possible? Theoretically I could get a rodding point into the face of the step?

This is at the 600mm level change. I assumed I need a drop shaft connection?

Thanks Ian. Really useful. I'll change the drawing.

This is broadly what I'm planning. Note that we have a level change in our slab and surrounding ground, the shaded yellow area is 600mm higher. I've had to pull the soil pipes further under the slab than I would have liked but this is due to the fact we have a 'cat slide' roof at the rear that drops to a single story. This makes the runs to the first floor a little more tricky (difficult to explain in 2d!). I've also added provision for brick slot drains in front of all the the low threshold doors. Orange: Foul Blue: Surface Black: Ducts for power, water etc. Blue: Insulated flow and return to ASHP.

Hi All Just finalising my groundworks jobs. I was interested in what people (especially those with a passive slab) have done about surface water drainage? Did you install all your pipe runs and gully's etc before the slab went down? Or after the slab? Or perhaps even only once the house was up? I can see pro's and cons for before and after.

I'm scared to open the link in case it refers to 'thermal mass'