Roundtuit

Could it just be that every time you have something done to try to fix the system (eg change the pump), that air has got in again?

@Ben100 Any updates pls?

Won't the intake vent just pull in the smoke into the loft?

The world's your oyster! Plain timber finishing just above the middle step skirting, or get creative, stick a decorative moulding on it (a bullseye maybe). Just needs to look neat ?

I don't think so. Doesn't seem to be based on valid planning reasons, just a neighbour with too much time on their hands...

Looks like lime plaster.

Well... it's raining again here, so can only work on other people's jobs! I drew on a door lining top and bottom; the one labelled 'door lining' wasn't intended for your door, just something to run the skirting to, otherwise you have an awkward junction where the skirting on the bottom step needs to meet up with the skirting from the middle step. Or... you could just not bother with skirting and carpet up to the edge. It's only there to protect the bottom of the plaster, so if you're careful when vacuuming you'll be fine!

More likely rising damp, assuming 'lower ground is at least partially below ground level. I'd have a poke about with a screwdriver and see if anything falls off easily; it's difficult to say, but it looks like the plaster may have blown, or if the skirting has been there a while it might soft. If it is damp, I'd get a specialist to have a look at it; the solution is likely to be a bit messy (hack off plaster and tank maybe?), so you only want to do it once. More pictures would be interesting.

Nice work! I think I'd also put a door lining (can just be a bit of skirting with the moulding cut off) in at the bottom and put architrave on in the lower room, so you'll have something to run the skirting up to and can terminate it neatly. Something like this:

I think the concrete ring beam is the way forward; what size do you reckon? Will 20cm x 20cm do it? Straight on to soil? Any reinforcement required? Cheers

I've offered to give someone a hand putting up a greenhouse that they've inherited. I think it's about 17ft x 8ft, and they were planning to just level the garden, lay some slabs on sand and bolt down the frame to that. I'm not keen on that idea, as a) slabs laid on sand is never a good idea (I can foresee movement and cracked glass...) and b) to do it properely with slabs (effectively build a patio to put it on) is a big job for a greenhouse that size. It's only the perimeter that needs to be solid and it doesn't need to be pretty, so I'm looking for suitable, cost-effective alternative. Could I knock up some shuttering and cast a concrete plinth? Dig it out a bit and lay blocks on compacted Type 1? Any thoughts please?

I don't think there's any reason you can't move in then. We moved in as soon as physically possible, and then finished the things required for a completion certificate over the following 9 months (inc ramp...). We registered with the council for tax purposes (needed the wheely bins) when we moved in with no problem.

Great question! I don't know the answer, but having built through two winters, I can say that wet, cold weather generally slows things down and makes the job miserable.... site like a swamp, mud on everything, roofers can't work due to frost, brickies can't work due to frost, screed takes weeks to dry, plastering takes weeks to dry, reduced daylight hours etc etc. All do-able though, just be aware that it may be a bit more frustrating than doing it in summer. Don't know what your chosen build method is, but maybe there's the opportunity to get the foundations in sooner rather than later, then do the above ground stuff when the weather is on the uphill curve?

My guess is installed May 2015, with a Feed in Tariff of 14p/kWh ?

As above, I Sioo-X'd ours after fitting. Larch is pretty durable anyway, so I couldn't justify the expense of treating the back and the off-cuts. Not too bad a job with a hand pressure sprayer from Screwfix and a masonry paintbrush to work it in, but you need to time it right with the weather.

2nd generation smart meters can measure export, hence the Smart Export Guarantee scheme that replaced FiT for new installs. Existing Fit's can switch over to the SEG I believe, but you'd have to fully understand your usage and do the sums carefully to make sure you weren't out of pocket.

Say no, and let them come up with a persuasive solution ?

Personally, I'd go straight edge with no overhang, probably in a nice bit of oak, and not carpeted. But then I prefer a more contemporary style, and I haven't got a router...

Have you tried Googling 'architrave' for photos? It's just a posh name for the fancy trim around a doorway. Stop procrastinating and start offering bits of wood up to the job! ?

BSA I reckon.?

Get your steps sorted first, and worry about the skirting later. You could always put some architrave around the doorway and run the skirting straight up to that, independent of the steps. You've done some great quality work; have confidence and make it up as you go along like the rest of us! ?

I can't vouch for their work, but I'd try RA Baker in Peterborough. I had several long conversations with them about a stair balustrade project. I never actually used them as they gave me some good, honest feedback about the flaws in my plan, but I think that's a good sign! ?

I think it depends very much on the planning authority. Generally, they'll want to see a design that fits with the local area. Infilling with a log cabin design in a row of 2-story brick houses, for example, is unlikely to be acceptable I'd suggest. You may also be at risk of under-developing the plot, as the plot will be priced for a bigger property - not a problem if you've got the cash and want to live there long term, but might disadvantage you financially if you want to sell, or need a mortgage to build. If you find something you like, try and have an informal chat with the planners to test the water. There will be no guarantees, but it should rule out the complete non-starters.

Our last house was an 1820's 4-story renovation job starting with the roof and working down, and yes, everything can be fixed, its just a question of time and money! Initial thoughts are as follows; - I wouldn't look for a 'construction consultant', I'd look for a good builder who's experienced and sympathetic with old buildings, assuming you want to maintain the character of the building (if you don't, then probably best buy something newer). - A Listing, or Conservation area adds an extra degree of complexity and cost. - Assume the worst from a budget perspective. Quotes will always have a built-in safety margin to cover the inevitable surprises. I had a lot of work done on day rate; it de-risked the job for the builder and ensured the job was done right with no shortcuts (so important to choose your builders carefully!). We ended up with a beautiful house, but it wasn't easy (or well insulated, or warm, or cheap to run and maintain...). Good luck!

Hmm... if it was Dragon's Den, I'd want to split the equity and have them both on board. As it's not, I think I'd go for the guy with an eye on the future that's keen to learn. That's not to say I don't appreciate time-served craftsmanship, but unless you're doing a conservation job, things have moved on...